Touching up nicks, scratches on black components
07-31-12, 10:02 AM
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Touching up nicks, scratches on black components
What do you recommend for touching up nicks and scratches on black anodized or painted components? I recently bought a used black Cinelli 1A stem that is in great shape except for a few nicks that tend to stand out more on black parts. I would rather not use paint since the stem was anodized and magic markers often leave a funny sheen. Was thinking about lamp black instead. Has anyone tried that or other solutions?
07-31-12, 10:11 AM
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Sharpie
07-31-12, 10:20 AM
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Sharpie only works best for small scratches and nicks. Anything bigger and you might start notice the blueish tint on the Sharpie's ink that won't match the black anodizing on the rest of the part. If the black anodizing is really bad bad on most of the component, one might just opt to remove the black anodizing entirely and polish up the part to satin or mirror siver finish.
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07-31-12, 11:08 AM
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My first inclination was to try a Sharpie but the idea of using lampblack intrigues me. The nicks aren't bad so I don't want to remove the anodizing, plus the black color matches my frame and other components well.
07-31-12, 12:19 PM
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A sharpie is not really black. The color looks more like a very dark purple when applied to a black part. I've used a True Black gun touchup pen with some success. The company also makes a liquid that chemically darkens aluminum that looks interesting.
07-31-12, 12:28 PM
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07-31-12, 04:51 PM
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I remember using it (or one like it) about 30 years ago and I thought it left a flat (matte) finish. Or am I remembering wrong?
Last edited by gearbasher; 07-31-12 at 05:04 PM.
07-31-12, 04:55 PM
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I use an anodizing pen -- aka "black Sharpie"
08-01-12, 06:56 AM
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Yes, it does leave a matte finish but for filling small nicks and scratches for which it is intended, it isn't very noticable.
08-03-12, 01:50 PM
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What? You mean I'm not the only one who uses Sharpie?
How noticeable the bluish cast is depends on how pristine the paint is. On my 18 year old Trek, it blends in quite well. Put it this way, I've got to look for the touch ups 'cause I forget where they were. Isn't that the whole point?
How noticeable the bluish cast is depends on how pristine the paint is. On my 18 year old Trek, it blends in quite well. Put it this way, I've got to look for the touch ups 'cause I forget where they were. Isn't that the whole point?
08-03-12, 05:41 PM
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Try dabbing on the Sharpie ink, then quickly rubbing it in with your finger to blend. You'll wipe off some of the ink and will need to repeat this a couple of times, but it usually works out well on small stuff. If you just dab it on without blending, you'll almost certainly see the color shift, as well as a difference in sheen.
08-03-12, 05:49 PM
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Do NOT use Testor's enamel paints. I got a few bottles of them, thinking they would be a more permanent, better looking way to go than nail polish. Quite the opposite. The paint, well shaken, is no easier to work with, and dries to a surprisingly dull finish. Doesn't seem any more permanent either.
But black hides a multitude of sins so I can't say the result actually looks bad.
But black hides a multitude of sins so I can't say the result actually looks bad.
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08-03-12, 05:55 PM
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Sharpie works great -too bad it doesn't last very long. It wipes right off.
08-03-12, 06:05 PM
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Yeah, black permanent Sharpie.
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08-04-12, 07:51 AM
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Paint pen
08-04-12, 07:55 AM
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Liquid shoe dye and clear coat is a recommendation.
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Moots VaMoots 2012-Peugeot Mixte 1974-Peugeot Mixte 1973
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