raleigh usa
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raleigh usa
hi i,m new to these forums and could really use some help. i just bought a 80,s raleigh usa competition 14 speed bike
i,ve looked on the forums but cant seem to locate any info on theis bike here are a few piks
i,ve looked on the forums but cant seem to locate any info on theis bike here are a few piks
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Welcome to C&V!
Looks like about an 86. I don't think the Biopace (or the rusty seat post) is original.
^ From the Headbadge ^
https://www.theheadbadge.com/
EDIT:
Didn't see the Suntour derailleur until now - That would probably make it an 85 model as below:
Looks like about an 86. I don't think the Biopace (or the rusty seat post) is original.
^ From the Headbadge ^
https://www.theheadbadge.com/
EDIT:
Didn't see the Suntour derailleur until now - That would probably make it an 85 model as below:
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Last edited by auchencrow; 01-24-13 at 05:05 PM.
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It appears to be a modified 1986 Raleigh Competition. If so, it was 2nd from the top of the Raleigh USA line. The serial number will allow us to verify the year.
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thanks for the reply
what would be a good asking price for this bike i paid 75 bucks for it did i get robbed or can i atleast get this back out of it
what would be a good asking price for this bike i paid 75 bucks for it did i get robbed or can i atleast get this back out of it
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Don't ask about value here - You're supposed to discuss it only in the Appraisal "what's it worth" sub-forum. You didn't get ripped off though.
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That's very hard to say given the quality of the supplied pictures and the fact that it is a frankenbike. You've got a decent frame but it also looks quite rough with lots of scratchs, ripped tape, rusty chain and front derailler cage, missing saddle. There's lots of work ahead of you.
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If you can get the seatpost out, $75 is a good deal. I have a 1986 and paid more, but it isn't as rough.
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I've never had a steel seat post I couldn't extract. The frame has good potential, and (from here) the paint looks OK. I would put some TLC into that and get it looking like oddjob's here.
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Given condition, I don't see any profit, unless you are in a red hot market. Around here, frames go cheap, and one that is in somewhat poor shape will go real cheap.
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Could you post a picture of the head tube top tube intersection, please. It is probably just picture distortion, but the top tube might be bent. I do hope not but it is best you know for sure...
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i cant send a message to you i have to post 50 times but you can hit me up on my messenger lasertech78@yahoo.com
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I'd be interested if you lived closer. You aren't going to make a killing, but you should be able to make a profit. Personally, I'd keep the bike if it fits. If it doesn't, clean it up. A little bit of elbow grease in cleaning up the drivetrain, re-wrapping the bars, and cleaning/polishing the bike will do wonders. If you have the technical knowledge, re-doing the brake and shifting cables, tires, and brake pads will help as well.
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thanks for the input guys. i,m not much of a bike rider i bought it cause i thought it was worth more but now i think i got taken on the deal.i learned a lesson on buying outside my comfort zone
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Do you live in the Columbus area. If you are near Ball State U, it might be a hot market over there come the fall start of classes.
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#19
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Its kind of like buying used cars that need TLC. The buyer that can fix a few things, clean them up, and resell them, can make money. But the person that has to take them to an auto shop, to have the work done, its really tough to make anything on them. Reselling them as is, its tough to make much.
I too will buy outside my comfort zone. I've bought anything from a full length mink coat (which I did not know was real or not, and I didn't know jack about fur coat values) to an accordion (I don't know anything about them either). My basic rule is the item has to be cheap, really cheap. So that if it is a mistake, I don't lose much. At the right price, I'll roll the dice. About 75% of the time, I do OK on those impulse buys (and maybe 10% of those turn out to be great buys). 25% of the time I strike out, and those items go right to my favorite thrift store. I have bought a lot of crazy items over the years. I continually strive to improving my batting average (make fewer buying mistakes). But I also figure if I have to be right 100% of the time, I will miss out on some deals. So I would rather be around 90% (I am not there yet).
Last edited by wrk101; 01-24-13 at 07:30 PM.
#20
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That's the "before" photo Auchencrow. Still figuring out the details on this one!
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You did not get "taken". - That was a reasonable price for a project but unless you are willing to put some TLC (and $) into it you will likely not sell it for any more than you bought it for. The potential for profit in flipping a bike is really a test of how much value you can add for your buyer - without going into the red yourself in the process.
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if you are pretty good with ebay, you can make some money by parting it out; I think I could get $250 out of it pretty easy - cranks $20, R.Der.$20, shifters$10, pedals $5, AGC Levers $15, AGC Calipers $25 (more if have those fancy brake pads), Stem $5, Bar$5, 531 lugged frame, fork, hdst, bb, 61cm,
$150 ( charge actual shipping prices). freewheel, wheels, skewers, ++ as long as the parts and frame are in good usable shape, you should have no problem making money. it seems bikes are almost always worth more when they're parted out.
$150 ( charge actual shipping prices). freewheel, wheels, skewers, ++ as long as the parts and frame are in good usable shape, you should have no problem making money. it seems bikes are almost always worth more when they're parted out.
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if you are pretty good with ebay, you can make some money by parting it out; I think I could get $250 out of it pretty easy - cranks $20, R.Der.$20, shifters$10, pedals $5, AGC Levers $15, AGC Calipers $25 (more if have those fancy brake pads), Stem $5, Bar$5, 531 lugged frame, fork, hdst, bb, 61cm,
$150 ( charge actual shipping prices). freewheel, wheels, skewers, ++ as long as the parts and frame are in good usable shape, you should have no problem making money. it seems bikes are almost always worth more when they're parted out.
$150 ( charge actual shipping prices). freewheel, wheels, skewers, ++ as long as the parts and frame are in good usable shape, you should have no problem making money. it seems bikes are almost always worth more when they're parted out.
I am not so sure. First of all the OP needs to get the parts off the bike and clean them. He either has to buy a crank puller or pay a shop to take the pedals and cranks off. The frame is pretty big and only has 531 in the main tubs and Tange fork $150 might be unrealisting.
Hi laser welcome to the forums. Does this bike fit? is it close? Dependig where you live there might be a forum member willing to help you make that a decent rider. It seems all there but the seat+post just needs lost of cleaning and tuning.
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i think it will clean up though i havent tried yet. i live in indiana close to richmond and muncie witch is close to iu east and bsu. i have a puller but dont really want to sell as parts would rather sell it the way it is. i,m just not big on bikes and really never ride
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