fullergarrett

Lately, the rear wheel on my bike has been acting up. The brakes (V-brakes) have been really tense ever since I changed the tires on the bike a couple months ago.

Last week, I had a flat on the rear. After getting home, I noticed a problem with the hub on the rear wheel. It seems the nut holding the guts of the hub in has come loose, which now allows it to roll freely. Is this normal? If I loosen the quick release skewer, I can actually pull the internals of the hub out.

Do I just need to tighten this nut back down? If so, does that nut need to be centered? I apologize if these are dumb questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Iride01 

This is one of those things that if you don't know you probably should take to a bike shop for the first time. Let them explain to you in-person what's going on and if they'll let you watch them fix it, then do so.

Your pic's really don't show enough to begin telling you what to do first. I'm not even certain what's going on to let that much axle stick through the non drive side of the hub.

When you took the wheel off, you didn't use a wrench on anything did you?

fullergarrett

Unfortunately, the nearest bike shop is about 30 miles away and the bike shop I usually take this bike to is about 2 hours away. The nut which holds the internals of the hub has seemed to come loose at some point.

I didn't use a wrench to remove anything. This bike has a quick release mechanism on both wheels, but I typically have to unscrew the quick release (the non-lever side) to remove the wheel. But that is, obviously, loosened just using my hand and is loosened just enough to get the wheel off the bike.

dedhed

That's a freewheel and you probably broke the axle as is common with freewheel hubs. It's due to the unsupported length beyond the bearings.

Cro-mo axles are readily available to easily replace this. You need to know the length, diameter, and threading and have a couple of the right cone wrenches.

https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-p...axles.html?p=2
https://thebikeshopstore.com/categor...eatured&page=2

https://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-025/000.html

Iride01 

Well on the non-drive side, can you see any bearings in there? I suspect that hub has loose ball bearings and wonder if some or most have fallen out on both sides, which might explain how so much axle can stick out on the non-drive side.

You can clearly see the cone bearing on the last pic. Who serviced the axle last? Grease looks fairly new.

You might glean some info about what you are seeing and what to do from this link. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

edit...
Yep, @dedhed might be right. axle could well be broke. Never had one myself though.

fullergarrett

This bike is just barely over a year old - I purchased it in December 2018. I'll pull the entire axle out and take a picture of it, and see about the bearings.

Iride01 

If you bought this at a bike shop, then I'd consider not doing anything until you can get the bike back to them. You might have some warranty or "good-will" with the LBS that they will be willing to make this right for little cost.

If you got it at a big-box store or online, then not so much a concern.

AnkleWork

Looks like a broken axle -- the locknuts appear secure in place.

fullergarrett

It was bought from a bike shop - the one that is about 2 hours away. I'll talk to them and see what they can do. IIRC they have a lifetime labor warranty on the bike, but you have to cover parts. Is a new axle an expensive part?

Out of curiosity (and for my future reference), what causes the axle to break like this?

Miele Man

The cone on t he right side of a freewheel axle is a fair distance away from the end of the axle. This gives a long section of unsupported axle. When riding over rough terrain (or dropping off of curbs (kerbs) with a load or a heavy rider the axle can break (or bend). This problem was virtually eliminated with the development of cassette hubs that has the right side cone very close to the end of the axle.

Cheers

fullergarrett

Dumb question: would it be possible to swap the freewheel axle out for the cassette axle, or would that require replacing the gears as well? I'm a heavier rider ("Clydesdale" rider) and would prefer to have something more reliable.

Bill Kapaun

They are the SAME axle.
10mmX1.0mm by the correct length for your drop out spacing. Typically 11mm longer than the DO spacing.
It's the location of the bearings and amount of "unsupported" axle involved.
I'm not sure if that's why yours broke, since you didn't pull the broken axle all the way out so we could see precisely WHERE the break is
Study this-
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

Russ Roth

I'd take it back to the shop, looks like a snapped axle and they can replace that and install new bearings. It may be that there's still a warranty on the part or even shop good will due to the age since purchased. If not it's usually around 12-15 for an axle, another few bucks for bearings, and 15-20 to install though shops vary; the cones are probably fine due to age and hopefully not being this way for long.
A replacement wheel with a freehub built in is probably in the neighborhood of 60-75 plus another 20-25 for a 7sp cassette; shops I've worked at didn't charge to install a new wheel and cassette but could be 10-20 to cover adjusting der and brakes so not a cheap option. If you're heavy though it could be worth it long term, I've seen plenty of freewheel axles snapped due to weight, strength or rugged use; have never seen a cassette axle snap. Your prices may vary a lot from what I listed and if the shop is too far away and you're technically capable then a decent cassette wheel can be had really affordably.

cyccommute 

It’s not really a dumb question. The simple answer is no.

The much longer and more complicated answer is that it’s that the axles are different, it that the hubs are different. The freewheel threads onto the hub while the cassette slides onto a cassette body. Freewheel hubs are prone to bending the axle because the axle is cantilevered away from the bearings and is unsupported. You have about an inch of axle that tends to bend easily. The freehub is supported on the end of the axle next to the frame. If you keep the freewheel, the axle is going to bent again. It’s a systemic problem with freewheel hubs. Get a freehub wheel and solve the problem. It’ll will cost more to replace the wheel in the short run but it will save you in the long run since replace the axle will be a regular occurrence with the freewheel wheel.

mrrabbit 

First off...

The primary cause of broken M9 / M10 / 3/8 axles is - misaligned dropouts.

A bent or broken axle is simply the observable symptom.

So when you take the bike back to the shop, not only will you need a new axle (if broken) but probably new cones and bearings as well. But before even doing that - make sure the hub races are stil good.

Before even putting the repiared wheel/hub back into the frame - have the shop check the dropout alignments. It's a 5 minute job using tools that look like T-handles with cups. Shouldn't cost more than 16.00.

Both freehub type hubs AND freehub type hubs routinely break axles - freehub type hubs do provide better axle end suppot - but it's not a guarantee - just an improvement.

=8-)

fullergarrett

I took some pictures of the removed axle. It didn’t look broke, but it looked ever so slightly bent. When I removed it one of the bearings pinged out, but luckily it didn’t roll under something.







I will definitely look into upgrading to a free hub wheel, especially since the freewheel axles breaking seem to be a common occurrence. I’m a heavy rider (340 #) so it’s likely worth it.

CliffordK

Are they still making 6-speed freewheels?

A replacement axle, cones, bearings, grease, etc... should be $10 to $25 + labor.

To change from a freewheel to a cassette, you will need to replace either the hub or the whole wheel. While the hubs are relatively cheap, you won't find a bike shop that will do the swap on a cheap wheel.

While there are some old 6-speed cassettes, you won't find any made in the last 20 years.

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycl...ing_Dimensions


Can you get the numbers on your freewheel? It is quite likely that it will have a 5.0 sprocket pitch, which means that your indexed shifters should work on a 7-speed cassette (possibly only shifting 6 sprockets).

Anyway, get your axle replaced, then start thinking about a new wheel + cassette.
7-speed cassettes are cheap, but I realize it all adds up.

Bill Kapaun

Your 1st pic clearly shows a broken axle. Other pics just get in the way.
The axle is 10MM DIAMETER, You have a long piece and the short piece.
The short piece has the cone, spacer & lock nut.
The long piece has a cone & lock nut. (& seal)
Lock nuts likely take a 17mm wrench, although possibly smaller.
The skewer is 5?mm dia. It is NOT an axle.

cyccommute 

Yep. Classic axle break. Breaks right at the end of the cones just like yours. Get a freehub wheel and you’ll never have to worry about it again.

Miele Man

For your weight I second the opinion that you'll be FAR better off with a wheel with a freehub instead of a freewheel. It might cost a bit but you'll have a lot less worry about bending or breaking an axle again.

Cheers

dedhed

If you replace the axle, to get additional strength, you can replace with a non quick release cro-mo solid nutted axle. You'd then have to carry a wrench for flat tire repair.

fullergarrett

If I replace with the free hub wheel, would I need to give up the quick release? It makes things rather easy when changing a flat, especially out in the field.

dedhed

The real problem will be that a 6/7 speed freehub hub is an old obsolete thing (see Shimano unigluide freehub).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Sto...-/390518724303

You'll most likely have to upgrade your RH shifter to accommodate an 8 speed freehub wheel which will be the most readily available replacement wheel. I'll assume this is Shimano equipped so likely you won't have any derailleur compatibility issues when changing shifters.


When doing that you'll need to know wheel size, OLD (over locknut distance), rim width, spoke count (36 for you) to purchase a wheel that will serve your purposes.
At your size you'd want a 36 hole strong good quality rim, something like Mavic A319 or Sun cr18. You'll also want it properly tensioned to keep it in shape.
I'm not a big guy so I'm sure someone else can chime in on alternatives for a big guy regarding rims and spokes.

CliffordK

You should be able to change to bolt-on with either a freewheel or freehub. Many of the solid axles use English threading, but metric should be available (making the conversion easier).

As I understand it the difference in strength between quick release and solid axle is minimal, and perhaps more dependent on material type and heat treating.

Still, it might be just enough.

Here is a 10x1 solid axle kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Action-10X1-1.../dp/B06XCSXMCX

You may or may not reuse your old cones. And, it doesn't specify the material.

dedhed

I'd seriously consider having the LBS throw a sold axle in to repair and make ridable for now and start saving for an upgrade in the bike.
Without knowing what you have now, upgrading this bike to a freehub may not be worth the costs involved, and a different bike may be the most effective solution long term.