Open for suggestions for my bike
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Open for suggestions for my bike
Hello ,
So I am in a pickle of what to do with my road bike. I just recently bought a budget bike (the only one I found during COVID 19) and before I continue here the specs
KHS Flite 150 (2017)
Fork Hi-Ten Unicrown, Straight Blades
Headset Threadless 1-1/8”
Rims Alloy Double Wall w/CNC Sidewall
Hubs ( F/R) KT Alloy QR, Cassette
Tires Road 700X28C
Derailleur, Front Shimano FD-A070, 31.8 clamp
Derailleur, Rear Shimano Acera M360
Shifters Shimano STI, ST-A070
Chain KMC Z7
Crankset Shimano FC-A070, 50-34T
BB Cartridge Bearing
Cassette Shimano Csst, HG20-7, 12-28T, 7-speed
Pedals Shimano PD-M520 SPD Pedals
Handlebar Alloy Drop, Compact Bend, 31.8, XS-M: 42cm, L-XL: 44cm, Ladies XXS-XS: 38cm
Stem
Alloy Thread less, 4 Bolt, 31.8 L: 100mm,
Brake Levers Shimano STI, ST-A070
Brake Dual Pivot, Long Reach
I had issues with the bike from the beginning and long story short I changed my rear derailleur for an Acera. Here is my true Question , I don't really mind the 7 speed cassette, but I feel like my crank (tourney) is not the Greatest. Therefore, If you suggest A better Crank set in a 2X7 system I can look into that, Otherwise what Should I upgrade to ? Thank you in advance. (p.s) what else would you recommend to replace with the detail description I put in for the Bike . And no I don't want to get a new bike , this one is special for me. lol
So I am in a pickle of what to do with my road bike. I just recently bought a budget bike (the only one I found during COVID 19) and before I continue here the specs
KHS Flite 150 (2017)
Fork Hi-Ten Unicrown, Straight Blades
Headset Threadless 1-1/8”
Rims Alloy Double Wall w/CNC Sidewall
Hubs ( F/R) KT Alloy QR, Cassette
Tires Road 700X28C
Derailleur, Front Shimano FD-A070, 31.8 clamp
Derailleur, Rear Shimano Acera M360
Shifters Shimano STI, ST-A070
Chain KMC Z7
Crankset Shimano FC-A070, 50-34T
BB Cartridge Bearing
Cassette Shimano Csst, HG20-7, 12-28T, 7-speed
Pedals Shimano PD-M520 SPD Pedals
Handlebar Alloy Drop, Compact Bend, 31.8, XS-M: 42cm, L-XL: 44cm, Ladies XXS-XS: 38cm
Stem
Alloy Thread less, 4 Bolt, 31.8 L: 100mm,
Brake Levers Shimano STI, ST-A070
Brake Dual Pivot, Long Reach
I had issues with the bike from the beginning and long story short I changed my rear derailleur for an Acera. Here is my true Question , I don't really mind the 7 speed cassette, but I feel like my crank (tourney) is not the Greatest. Therefore, If you suggest A better Crank set in a 2X7 system I can look into that, Otherwise what Should I upgrade to ? Thank you in advance. (p.s) what else would you recommend to replace with the detail description I put in for the Bike . And no I don't want to get a new bike , this one is special for me. lol
#2
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What specific issues are you having with the crank? Overall, it's hard to suggest "upgrading" any of the components. The bike is what it is and the components seem appropriate for the frame. Buy some nice tires, that will enhance your riding experience more than any other change.
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I wouldn't put any money into this bike. It is what it is. Save your money and buy a better bike when they are again available.
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#5
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What specific issues are you having with the crank? Overall, it's hard to suggest "upgrading" any of the components. The bike is what it is and the components seem appropriate for the frame. Buy some nice tires, that will enhance your riding experience more than any other change.
Its the cheapest, but most effective upgrade ever, had a component that cost hundreds given the same benefit, i would have considered it a bargain.
#6
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Unles you're competing with bike snob "friends" that would NEVER pay less than $1000 for a bike, I would just keep it and ride it. Your issues (you should list them) may work themselves out or you'll adapt. With the starting of this thread being your first post, we have no idea what kind of cyclist you are and are hard pressed to suggest upgrades (if any)! In addition to a description of the "issues" you mentioned, a personal "back story" would be helpful. Are you new to cycling? Are you a competive or leisure rider? Old or young? Rich or poor? These can be factors that BF members take into consideration when making suggestions. Glad to have you on the forum and hope that you get the info that you need. Welcome to the forum!
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#7
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I'm two years into riding after 25 years. I'm 62 and not to sound like a jerk but I could go out today and buy a $6000 bike no problem. My primary bike is a 16 year old Cannondale Synapse 4 AL. This is a 3x9.
This summer I rode on about 15 weeknight club rides, these were 22-30 miles long and usually between 1600 to 2300 feet of climbing. It was great because it taught me a lot about group riding and I met a lot in nice people. The rides were mostly C+/B- skill level, so not really beginner as there were some rides that riders dropped out but not advanced either.
Each ride I found it was impossible for me to not look at what everyone was riding and make a mental comparison. I would say out of those 15 rides I had one of if not the least advanced bike in the field. Almost everyone was mounted on carbon fiber, disk brakes and many had compact gearing and quite a few e-shifting and tubeless tires.
The first few rides I was cautious and conservative not wanting to look foolish but not get dropped. By mid season I was the one that had to wait at the top of the hills for everyone else. I never got dropped and quite honestly always had a little something left in the tank at the end. I have concluded that while this is a hobby and as such we should do what we want with our hobby money and if that means buying high end bikes or upgrading what we have then by all means we should do it.
To the OP I really wouldn't worry about the components on your bike, what I would do is get the most you possibly can out of what you have. Looking over the specs it really isn't all that bad. That bike will get you into a state of fitness if you do your part.
I bought my bike used for $350 I haven't done any upgrades to it except the saddle, cables and will put on new tires in the spring but I have over 2000 miles on the ones that came with it. My money has gone into a Garmin Edge 530, Garmin Vector 3 PM/pedals, Wahoo speed cadence sensors, Bontrager shoes, Wahoo optical HRM, PI shorts (3 pairs) and a few other things. Add that all up it is way way way more than I spent on the actual bike. While I'm really happy with my bike performance and on track to ride 6000 miles this year, I'm far from being able to say with a straight face that my bike is holding me back.
My advice is ride the wheels off what you have, save up for something better but in my opinion it will take a few years to wear that bike out.
This summer I rode on about 15 weeknight club rides, these were 22-30 miles long and usually between 1600 to 2300 feet of climbing. It was great because it taught me a lot about group riding and I met a lot in nice people. The rides were mostly C+/B- skill level, so not really beginner as there were some rides that riders dropped out but not advanced either.
Each ride I found it was impossible for me to not look at what everyone was riding and make a mental comparison. I would say out of those 15 rides I had one of if not the least advanced bike in the field. Almost everyone was mounted on carbon fiber, disk brakes and many had compact gearing and quite a few e-shifting and tubeless tires.
The first few rides I was cautious and conservative not wanting to look foolish but not get dropped. By mid season I was the one that had to wait at the top of the hills for everyone else. I never got dropped and quite honestly always had a little something left in the tank at the end. I have concluded that while this is a hobby and as such we should do what we want with our hobby money and if that means buying high end bikes or upgrading what we have then by all means we should do it.
To the OP I really wouldn't worry about the components on your bike, what I would do is get the most you possibly can out of what you have. Looking over the specs it really isn't all that bad. That bike will get you into a state of fitness if you do your part.
I bought my bike used for $350 I haven't done any upgrades to it except the saddle, cables and will put on new tires in the spring but I have over 2000 miles on the ones that came with it. My money has gone into a Garmin Edge 530, Garmin Vector 3 PM/pedals, Wahoo speed cadence sensors, Bontrager shoes, Wahoo optical HRM, PI shorts (3 pairs) and a few other things. Add that all up it is way way way more than I spent on the actual bike. While I'm really happy with my bike performance and on track to ride 6000 miles this year, I'm far from being able to say with a straight face that my bike is holding me back.
My advice is ride the wheels off what you have, save up for something better but in my opinion it will take a few years to wear that bike out.
Last edited by Thomas15; 10-31-20 at 06:02 PM.
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#9
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Ride it till the wheels fall off, or if you do upgrade at some point keep that as a winter bike or something you leave mounted to a trainer for rainy days.
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Except for riding it, leave your bike alone.
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#12
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If you are having trouble with the shifting, then perhaps take it to the local bike shop for an adjustment of the front and rear derailleurs. It's never going to be more than it is, but with a little effort perhaps it can be all that it should.
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#13
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Why the change to a double crank? Need higher gears? Just want a change? Shifting issues? Give us a reason to go with so we can get an idea of what is to be accomplished. With that said, I had a Giant Cypress picked from the neighbors trash. Pulled all the parts off and put my own on it and commuted 30 miles a day for a whole year on it. Found that bike to be a very capable commuter and would have toured on it had the need presented itself. If the bike is special to you, give answers to the questions above so we can help you out.
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I have to say it: "Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades." Eddy Merckx
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Normally I'd say every bike deserves a better set of wheels, but looking at the overall build, I wouldn't spend a lot on a new set.
Really, like others have said, just ride it and be happy.
Really, like others have said, just ride it and be happy.
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Tires
saddle
pedals+shoes
add full length metal fenders.
get some severely bright lights.
cranks are fine till you go and get yourself spoiled by vintage low q-factor (width) cranks from before Y2K or track cranks. They all crank.
saddle
pedals+shoes
add full length metal fenders.
get some severely bright lights.
cranks are fine till you go and get yourself spoiled by vintage low q-factor (width) cranks from before Y2K or track cranks. They all crank.
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#18
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Put $25 a week in a jar as a first step to buying a new bike. While you are accumulating your bankroll, research bikes in the $1500+ price range and compare them to the bike you presently ride. And also bikes less and more expensive. Think about how well your bike satisfies your needs. You'll get an idea which direction you should go, or at least the direction you should look. REIs offerings are a reasonable sample of what is available for how much money. As you accumulate cash, you will accumulate knowledge and learn what you need/want the capability of the bike to be. You may not get it right on the first attempt, but it's a lifelong project. When you get to be old (65+), you may have a clue. Good luck. After each bike purchase, continue with the money jar contribution for the NEXT bike.
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If you really want to upgrade the bike you can look for a build group from ebay or facebook marketplace. One thing that would make life simpler would be if your wheels are capable of using 8-10sp cassettes, look behind your current cassette and see if there is a spacer. If there is you can just pick up a used 9sp sora or tiagra groupset which will set you back a couple hundred but tiagra especially will work much better. If you don't have a spacer you'll need a different wheel and that's when it gets more difficult. Either way the process still won't be easy or cheap unless you have the tools and know what you're doing or a friend you can bring some good beer to and knock back a couple together while they show you how to do the job.
Spending a lot of money on the bike or upgrades won't get you too far and new parts are not always cheap. That tourney crank from my experience was made from fairly soft metal and the rings were easy to bend and didn't shift well. But even a new sora crank without a BB will set you back over a 100.00 and while it will shift and work better it isn't necessarily worth the cost of the minor upgrade.
Spending a lot of money on the bike or upgrades won't get you too far and new parts are not always cheap. That tourney crank from my experience was made from fairly soft metal and the rings were easy to bend and didn't shift well. But even a new sora crank without a BB will set you back over a 100.00 and while it will shift and work better it isn't necessarily worth the cost of the minor upgrade.
Last edited by Russ Roth; 11-01-20 at 08:48 PM.
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Please restate what your problem is. Don't tell us about your feelings. Tell us what the specific issue is. Also, include how much money you are willing to spend to alleviate the issue. The rest will be easy.
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tires, saddle if needed, and bar tape if thats needed. Those are contact points for you touching the bike and the bike touching the ground. Having comfortable/quality contact points = fun ride.
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What specific issues are you having with the crank? Overall, it's hard to suggest "upgrading" any of the components. The bike is what it is and the components seem appropriate for the frame. Buy some nice tires, that will enhance your riding experience more than any other change.
Greatly appreciate your Suggestion. And for the Crank, I am get clunk sound but is not consistent. That's what I find odd about it.