Removing handlebar tape residue
#26
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Carbon Fiber Reinforced Plastic (CFRPs) have carbon fibers (duh) and a resin matrix. The resin matrix can be one of several things. Epoxide, unsaturated polyester, vinyl ester, and polyamide imide resins (Torlon(R) is a pretty cool example) are used. There can be additives such as rubber. Some of these matrices (e,g, epoxides) are pretty resistant to everything (excepting stuff like hyrdrobromic acid and other strong bases or acids). But without knowing, it's probably good to avoid stuff like acetone or methty-ethyl-ketone or gasoline.
On alloy bars, goo-gone followed by min spirits to rinse followed by soap and water. Let dry and wrap pristine bars.
On CF bars, golly. I think I'd try warm soap and water and a credit card to scrape the stuff ollf. Check with the mfr?
On alloy bars, goo-gone followed by min spirits to rinse followed by soap and water. Let dry and wrap pristine bars.
On CF bars, golly. I think I'd try warm soap and water and a credit card to scrape the stuff ollf. Check with the mfr?
I sat in on a carbon frame talk (at a NAHBS a bunch of years ago) presented by Craig Calfee. He said that there was nothing that could be bought from your local hardware store that will damage the carbon structure. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#27
Steel is real
agreed ^, methylene chloride can dissolve fibreglass, and carbon is made up of much tougher resins [two part epoxies
#28
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Andrew, le mans,
Good points. Andrew, given Mr. Calfee's remarks and other data I suspect that all modern CF bikes use two-part epoxies. I'm trained as a chemical engineer, and so I'm probably a bit more conservative (clouding the finish of or even weakening a bike part is one thing, but having an 80,000 gallon glass-reinforced plastic vessel dissolve and discharge its contents into a working chemical plant is another level). Chemical compatibility charts show epoxy is pretty amazingly resistant. That said, there are some warning flags. At least one business that does work with epoxy suggests methylene chloride to remove epoxy encapsulant from expensive parts. Another chart, from an epoxy seller, recommends against using methylene choride with any epoxy they make - this is the only solvent that is uniformly "not recommended" for use with any epoxy. Acetone is not recommended for epoxides as well, but is allowed for other materials (such as vinyl esters) used for matrices in CRP. Note that acetone is allowed in a "splash and spill" scenario, with cleanup within the hour. The upshot is that I'd avoid methylene chloride and probably acetone. Also, combinations of solvents whose formulation is designed to dissolve almost anything. Paint strippers, or combination cleaners like brake or aircraft cleaners. This on the theory that combinations can be more powerful than any one component (aqua regia, a combination of 3 parts hydrochloric acid, and 1 part nitric, will together but not individually dissolve gold and platinum*)
I was interested in d-limonene (an ingredient that is a big reason why Goo Gone works so well). At least one company suggests that epoxy is "Very Good" in service with d-limonene. So I was encouraged - I'll probably try Goo Gone to remove road tar on my bike now with some confidence. If you buy Goo Gone, be aware that they have a range of products. They sell little bottles of the stuff that really works. "Goo Gone" original. The larger spray bottles contain something that doesn't work as well for me. Here's what I use (a little on a paper towel will take off adhesive residue really well):
*I'd avoid aqua regia on bike parts as well...
https://googone.com/media/catalog/pr...oz_front_2.jpg
Good points. Andrew, given Mr. Calfee's remarks and other data I suspect that all modern CF bikes use two-part epoxies. I'm trained as a chemical engineer, and so I'm probably a bit more conservative (clouding the finish of or even weakening a bike part is one thing, but having an 80,000 gallon glass-reinforced plastic vessel dissolve and discharge its contents into a working chemical plant is another level). Chemical compatibility charts show epoxy is pretty amazingly resistant. That said, there are some warning flags. At least one business that does work with epoxy suggests methylene chloride to remove epoxy encapsulant from expensive parts. Another chart, from an epoxy seller, recommends against using methylene choride with any epoxy they make - this is the only solvent that is uniformly "not recommended" for use with any epoxy. Acetone is not recommended for epoxides as well, but is allowed for other materials (such as vinyl esters) used for matrices in CRP. Note that acetone is allowed in a "splash and spill" scenario, with cleanup within the hour. The upshot is that I'd avoid methylene chloride and probably acetone. Also, combinations of solvents whose formulation is designed to dissolve almost anything. Paint strippers, or combination cleaners like brake or aircraft cleaners. This on the theory that combinations can be more powerful than any one component (aqua regia, a combination of 3 parts hydrochloric acid, and 1 part nitric, will together but not individually dissolve gold and platinum*)
I was interested in d-limonene (an ingredient that is a big reason why Goo Gone works so well). At least one company suggests that epoxy is "Very Good" in service with d-limonene. So I was encouraged - I'll probably try Goo Gone to remove road tar on my bike now with some confidence. If you buy Goo Gone, be aware that they have a range of products. They sell little bottles of the stuff that really works. "Goo Gone" original. The larger spray bottles contain something that doesn't work as well for me. Here's what I use (a little on a paper towel will take off adhesive residue really well):
*I'd avoid aqua regia on bike parts as well...
https://googone.com/media/catalog/pr...oz_front_2.jpg
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 04-05-19 at 05:29 AM.
#29
Steel is real
We used to leave our tools in a bucket of Methylene Chloride over night, Wizzard, in the fibreglass industry.. if it had hardened resin on it or if it interfered with it's performance - rollers for example
I believe acetone if fine to use as a cleaning agent though on carbon bikes parts because it doesn't stay on for long, you dampen the cloth with acetone rub whatever crap off then wipe it again with a clean rag..it wouldn't allow enough time for it to do any damage, plus even if you didn't wipe it off with a clean rag after.. the acetone would evaporate.. so, no harm done
soaking it in acetone would be another matter
I believe acetone if fine to use as a cleaning agent though on carbon bikes parts because it doesn't stay on for long, you dampen the cloth with acetone rub whatever crap off then wipe it again with a clean rag..it wouldn't allow enough time for it to do any damage, plus even if you didn't wipe it off with a clean rag after.. the acetone would evaporate.. so, no harm done
soaking it in acetone would be another matter
Last edited by le mans; 04-05-19 at 06:20 AM.
#30
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We used to leave our tools in a bucket of Methylene Chloride over night, Wizzard, in the fibreglass industry.. if it had hardened resin on it or if it interfered with it's performance - rollers for example
I believe acetone if fine to use as a cleaning agent though on carbon bikes parts because it doesn't stay on for long, you dampen the cloth with acetone rub whatever crap off then wipe it again with a clean rag..it wouldn't allow enough time for it to do any damage, plus even if you didn't wipe it off with a clean rag after.. the acetone would evaporate.. so, no harm done
soaking it in acetone would be another matter
I believe acetone if fine to use as a cleaning agent though on carbon bikes parts because it doesn't stay on for long, you dampen the cloth with acetone rub whatever crap off then wipe it again with a clean rag..it wouldn't allow enough time for it to do any damage, plus even if you didn't wipe it off with a clean rag after.. the acetone would evaporate.. so, no harm done
soaking it in acetone would be another matter
#31
Steel is real
I remember i needed to wash off resin on the side of my car {two pack paint** using Acetone, didn't harm it.. though, compound buffed it after
#32
Senior Member
Depends on the age of the paint job. For a fully cured job, acetone shouldn't damage the finish if exposed briefly (aka, wiping it down). For a 'young' job, acetone can damage a glossy look.
#33
Steel is real
We used to use this stuff what we called "848" for washing our cars [and moulds] to remove hardened over spray, one of the down falls of working with that fibreglass shyte, where gel-coat guns & chopper guns are used.. the over spray would get everywhere, even the neighbouring businesses would complain
i wouldn't recommend using it on cheap acrylic paint jobs too
i wouldn't recommend using it on cheap acrylic paint jobs too
#34
Senior Member
The bars have no reason to be residue free prior to putting new bar tape on. It will have zero impact on your new tape. Chunks and pieces of previous tape should be removed as much as possible and may cause lumps but residual tape fuzz and goop doesn't.
Last edited by u235; 04-05-19 at 07:44 AM.