Vintage Bike Options
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Vintage Bike Options
Hello all,
I am new to road bikes and I am looking for something cheap and durable, but not weighing in at a billion pounds. I think vintage bikes would be a good option for me because they seem solidly built, they don't cost too much so I won't have to worry about tossing it around, and I won't lose a huge investment if it gets stolen. I'd like to still be able to update the bikes with new parts (most likely newer parts on drivetrain, handlebars, saddle, etc.). My father has all the tools I would need to do most fixes or updates, but neither of us are very well versed in vintage road bikes, so I thought I'd take advantage of the wisdom of the internet rather than spending a lot of time researching the technical specifics of each one. Here is a list of all the models in good condition that I've seen on craigslist that seem like they might fit my criteria:
Schwinn Traveler
Schwinn Le Tour
Schwinn World Sport
Batavus Champion
And two a bit above what I want to spend but if they are clearly better I might go for them:
Giant Perigee
Trek Tri Series
What would you say is my best bet out of these options in terms of compatibility with newer parts, as well as durability and weight? I'm pretty set on spending a low amount of money on a vintage bike rather than saving up for a new one, just in case anybody was going to recommend that.
Thanks!
I am new to road bikes and I am looking for something cheap and durable, but not weighing in at a billion pounds. I think vintage bikes would be a good option for me because they seem solidly built, they don't cost too much so I won't have to worry about tossing it around, and I won't lose a huge investment if it gets stolen. I'd like to still be able to update the bikes with new parts (most likely newer parts on drivetrain, handlebars, saddle, etc.). My father has all the tools I would need to do most fixes or updates, but neither of us are very well versed in vintage road bikes, so I thought I'd take advantage of the wisdom of the internet rather than spending a lot of time researching the technical specifics of each one. Here is a list of all the models in good condition that I've seen on craigslist that seem like they might fit my criteria:
Schwinn Traveler
Schwinn Le Tour
Schwinn World Sport
Batavus Champion
And two a bit above what I want to spend but if they are clearly better I might go for them:
Giant Perigee
Trek Tri Series
What would you say is my best bet out of these options in terms of compatibility with newer parts, as well as durability and weight? I'm pretty set on spending a low amount of money on a vintage bike rather than saving up for a new one, just in case anybody was going to recommend that.
Thanks!
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Hi, and welcome to C&V. If you tell us your height/inseam and what size bike you think you need, we can scour CL for you and pick out the best options if you want to go vintage. Making armchair recommendations is what we do best. Of those you listed, I'd recommend the Trek as a great entry into the C&V world - well built machines that don't cost an arm and a leg.
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Hi, and welcome to C&V. If you tell us your height/inseam and what size bike you think you need, we can scour CL for you and pick out the best options if you want to go vintage. Making armchair recommendations is what we do best. Of those you listed, I'd recommend the Trek as a great entry into the C&V world - well built machines that don't cost an arm and a leg.
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I'm with @friendofpugs. Your best bet is to list a few bikes on the C&V appraisal forum and ask for advice as to whether those bikes are worth the asking price on craigslist. If you list your city and height, people will tell you which bikes will fit and they'll scour the ads for you. Nothing like free labor, right?
In terms of working on bikes, that's easy and they're are a ton of really good youtube videos on this.
Also what are you planning on doing with your bike? A commuter or all around bike is different than a racer and some of the bikes you've listed are really racing bikes.
In terms of working on bikes, that's easy and they're are a ton of really good youtube videos on this.
Also what are you planning on doing with your bike? A commuter or all around bike is different than a racer and some of the bikes you've listed are really racing bikes.
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I'm with @friendofpugs. Your best bet is to list a few bikes on the C&V appraisal forum and ask for advice as to whether those bikes are worth the asking price on craigslist. If you list your city and height, people will tell you which bikes will fit and they'll scour the ads for you. Nothing like free labor, right?
In terms of working on bikes, that's easy and they're are a ton of really good youtube videos on this.
Also what are you planning on doing with your bike? A commuter or all around bike is different than a racer and some of the bikes you've listed are really racing bikes.
In terms of working on bikes, that's easy and they're are a ton of really good youtube videos on this.
Also what are you planning on doing with your bike? A commuter or all around bike is different than a racer and some of the bikes you've listed are really racing bikes.
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For a 10 mile commute, it's tough to beat a vintage mountain bike (one with a rigid fork). The wheels tend to be in decent shape on them (it's easier to wreck a road bike wheel) and upright bars are a good choice for commuting. They tend to be decent in price. Here are two (a Haro and a KHS) each for a $100. They might be a bit small since you're five eleven but mountain bikes have long seatposts:
https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/b...893121493.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/b...898696051.html
also this Trek Antelope also at $100
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/b...898525621.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/b...893121493.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/b...898696051.html
also this Trek Antelope also at $100
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/b...898525621.html
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Hi, and welcome to C&V. If you tell us your height/inseam and what size bike you think you need, we can scour CL for you and pick out the best options if you want to go vintage. Making armchair recommendations is what we do best. Of those you listed, I'd recommend the Trek as a great entry into the C&V world - well built machines that don't cost an arm and a leg.
#8
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If you worry about theft, buy the ugliest looking one. With Schwinn, those models varied year to year. It would help to know the years of each?
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#9
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If the Trek is from the guy from Streamwood, you may very well need to upgrade the bike. He always pieces things together that are not always done right. Nice looking frame if it is not dented. He will let you talk him down a bit if you are willing to walk away.
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It is from the streamwood guy! I just emailed him, asked him if he would be able negotiate a bit. We'll see what happens. What should I look out for in terms of incorrect parts?
#11
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Buy a bike complete and ready to go. "Fixing it up" generally costs a whole lot more than original purchase price. Control your urge for modern parts. If you need whatever modern is to you just start with a 90s bike or a 2000s bike.
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If you want something you can upgrade...
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/b...893223364.html
And is less of a theft risk.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/b...893223364.html
And is less of a theft risk.
Vintage bikes.Quasar Giant. Schwinn. Chicago bicycle co - $125 (Huntley) hide this posting
image 13 of 13
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Just a word of advice to add in. If tires are yucky, that is a $50.00 expenditure for decent ones to replace. Tires and wheels make the difference with older bikes.
You might want to increase your budget by the $50 for "tricking out" and see if $175-200 gets you something ready to go.
I notice there is a vintage 60cm Bottechia for sale on there.
And a larger Trek
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/b...884862212.html
And my choice for your height/inseam - 58cm, brifters. $175
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/b...898449210.html
Lots of choices down here in Charleston...
You might want to increase your budget by the $50 for "tricking out" and see if $175-200 gets you something ready to go.
I notice there is a vintage 60cm Bottechia for sale on there.
And a larger Trek
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/b...884862212.html
And my choice for your height/inseam - 58cm, brifters. $175
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/b...898449210.html
Lots of choices down here in Charleston...
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#15
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I have only purchased two bikes from him, all I was after was the frames. Neither bike was in road worthy condition.
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
Last edited by Steve Whitlatch; 05-27-19 at 09:53 PM.
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Hello all,
I am new to road bikes and I am looking for something cheap and durable, but not weighing in at a billion pounds. I think vintage bikes would be a good option for me because they seem solidly built, they don't cost too much so I won't have to worry about tossing it around, and I won't lose a huge investment if it gets stolen. I'd like to still be able to update the bikes with new parts (most likely newer parts on drivetrain, handlebars, saddle, etc.). My father has all the tools I would need to do most fixes or updates, but neither of us are very well versed in vintage road bikes, so I thought I'd take advantage of the wisdom of the internet rather than spending a lot of time researching the technical specifics of each one. Here is a list of all the models in good condition that I've seen on craigslist that seem like they might fit my criteria:
Schwinn Traveler
Schwinn Le Tour
Schwinn World Sport
Batavus Champion
And two a bit above what I want to spend but if they are clearly better I might go for them:
Giant Perigee
Trek Tri Series
What would you say is my best bet out of these options in terms of compatibility with newer parts, as well as durability and weight? I'm pretty set on spending a low amount of money on a vintage bike rather than saving up for a new one, just in case anybody was going to recommend that.
Thanks!
I am new to road bikes and I am looking for something cheap and durable, but not weighing in at a billion pounds. I think vintage bikes would be a good option for me because they seem solidly built, they don't cost too much so I won't have to worry about tossing it around, and I won't lose a huge investment if it gets stolen. I'd like to still be able to update the bikes with new parts (most likely newer parts on drivetrain, handlebars, saddle, etc.). My father has all the tools I would need to do most fixes or updates, but neither of us are very well versed in vintage road bikes, so I thought I'd take advantage of the wisdom of the internet rather than spending a lot of time researching the technical specifics of each one. Here is a list of all the models in good condition that I've seen on craigslist that seem like they might fit my criteria:
Schwinn Traveler
Schwinn Le Tour
Schwinn World Sport
Batavus Champion
And two a bit above what I want to spend but if they are clearly better I might go for them:
Giant Perigee
Trek Tri Series
What would you say is my best bet out of these options in terms of compatibility with newer parts, as well as durability and weight? I'm pretty set on spending a low amount of money on a vintage bike rather than saving up for a new one, just in case anybody was going to recommend that.
Thanks!
There is s saying in the world of road bikes. Cheap, light durable. Pick two. Simply put, a decent basic new road bike will run you $800 to $1,000. Maybe something a few years old in clean condition will run you half that, so maybe $400 to $500 in ready to ride condition. And, of course, the older or more beat up a bike is, the more money goes into repairs, so, say, you get a deal on a used bike five to ten years old for $250, but it is s little beat up and needs some new tires, tubes, bar tape, chain, cassette, and bottom bracket, even if you do all the work yourself, you are still talking about putting another $150 or so into parts, and that is just the consummables that you would expect to wear out over time. If you need a new set of wheels, then your budget is blown, and you might as well have bought yourself a cleaner bike to begin with.
So you have that issue, and then there is the issue of vintage. I would say if you go vintage, buy it for what it is, and don't bother trying to update it to modern unless you really know what you are doing. So that means, if you buy a bike with 5 or 6 speed freewheel, and downtube shifters, make sure you are ok with that as updating to modern shifters can get expensive pretty quick, and tricky, too, since modern wheels 8 speed or higher won't fit on a vintage frame.
That said, I did have success buying a vintage bike for my son, with a whole lot of mismatched parts, and somehow it all worked out. The bike is a complete Frankenbike. A vintage Gitane frame from the early 80s, but I recognized from the decals these bikes were very high quality back in the day. But someone updated to modern style shifters, albeit older Shimano 105 8 speed shifters. Mismatched, rims, but Ultegra hubs. Old 105 front derailleur. And an 8 speed Shimano 2300 rear derailleur. It shouldn't all work together, but somehow it does. And I bought it out of season in a complicated trade with the seller, where I traded him an old mountain bike, plus $100 cash for this bike, which has not needed so much as a tuneup in the 3 years my son has ridden it. When my son suggested upgrading parts, I told him not to, but rather just enjoy the bike for what it is, which is a fine vintage steel frame with mostly mid to late 90s drivetrain, and some mismatched wheels.
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Ok, welcome to the world of vintage bikes. This is an area that I once dipped a toe in, and I still like the idea of vintage. But before we go on a few thoughts.
There is s saying in the world of road bikes. Cheap, light durable. Pick two. Simply put, a decent basic new road bike will run you $800 to $1,000. Maybe something a few years old in clean condition will run you half that, so maybe $400 to $500 in ready to ride condition. And, of course, the older or more beat up a bike is, the more money goes into repairs, so, say, you get a deal on a used bike five to ten years old for $250, but it is s little beat up and needs some new tires, tubes, bar tape, chain, cassette, and bottom bracket, even if you do all the work yourself, you are still talking about putting another $150 or so into parts, and that is just the consummables that you would expect to wear out over time. If you need a new set of wheels, then your budget is blown, and you might as well have bought yourself a cleaner bike to begin with.
So you have that issue, and then there is the issue of vintage. I would say if you go vintage, buy it for what it is, and don't bother trying to update it to modern unless you really know what you are doing. So that means, if you buy a bike with 5 or 6 speed freewheel, and downtube shifters, make sure you are ok with that as updating to modern shifters can get expensive pretty quick, and tricky, too, since modern wheels 8 speed or higher won't fit on a vintage frame.
That said, I did have success buying a vintage bike for my son, with a whole lot of mismatched parts, and somehow it all worked out. The bike is a complete Frankenbike. A vintage Gitane frame from the early 80s, but I recognized from the decals these bikes were very high quality back in the day. But someone updated to modern style shifters, albeit older Shimano 105 8 speed shifters. Mismatched, rims, but Ultegra hubs. Old 105 front derailleur. And an 8 speed Shimano 2300 rear derailleur. It shouldn't all work together, but somehow it does. And I bought it out of season in a complicated trade with the seller, where I traded him an old mountain bike, plus $100 cash for this bike, which has not needed so much as a tuneup in the 3 years my son has ridden it. When my son suggested upgrading parts, I told him not to, but rather just enjoy the bike for what it is, which is a fine vintage steel frame with mostly mid to late 90s drivetrain, and some mismatched wheels.
There is s saying in the world of road bikes. Cheap, light durable. Pick two. Simply put, a decent basic new road bike will run you $800 to $1,000. Maybe something a few years old in clean condition will run you half that, so maybe $400 to $500 in ready to ride condition. And, of course, the older or more beat up a bike is, the more money goes into repairs, so, say, you get a deal on a used bike five to ten years old for $250, but it is s little beat up and needs some new tires, tubes, bar tape, chain, cassette, and bottom bracket, even if you do all the work yourself, you are still talking about putting another $150 or so into parts, and that is just the consummables that you would expect to wear out over time. If you need a new set of wheels, then your budget is blown, and you might as well have bought yourself a cleaner bike to begin with.
So you have that issue, and then there is the issue of vintage. I would say if you go vintage, buy it for what it is, and don't bother trying to update it to modern unless you really know what you are doing. So that means, if you buy a bike with 5 or 6 speed freewheel, and downtube shifters, make sure you are ok with that as updating to modern shifters can get expensive pretty quick, and tricky, too, since modern wheels 8 speed or higher won't fit on a vintage frame.
That said, I did have success buying a vintage bike for my son, with a whole lot of mismatched parts, and somehow it all worked out. The bike is a complete Frankenbike. A vintage Gitane frame from the early 80s, but I recognized from the decals these bikes were very high quality back in the day. But someone updated to modern style shifters, albeit older Shimano 105 8 speed shifters. Mismatched, rims, but Ultegra hubs. Old 105 front derailleur. And an 8 speed Shimano 2300 rear derailleur. It shouldn't all work together, but somehow it does. And I bought it out of season in a complicated trade with the seller, where I traded him an old mountain bike, plus $100 cash for this bike, which has not needed so much as a tuneup in the 3 years my son has ridden it. When my son suggested upgrading parts, I told him not to, but rather just enjoy the bike for what it is, which is a fine vintage steel frame with mostly mid to late 90s drivetrain, and some mismatched wheels.
#18
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I honestly think a frankenbike is pretty cool. I connected with the trek guy and asked him about potential problems and he said it needs a new front brake cable (not bad), but he also said "you can ride IT...no problem...". Kind of a weird way to phrase it, should that be cause for concern? I don't mind getting maybe a new wheel or something (I'm sure I'll be able to source one cheap from a friend) but what would be the most concerning issue in your opinion? Obviously damage to the frame would be a deal breaker, but are there any parts that are a pain to replace otherwise? Also, not concerned with the downtube shifters, I have a buddy who has some extra indexed bar end shifters and he's happy to help me install them.
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
Last edited by Steve Whitlatch; 05-27-19 at 10:22 PM.
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I honestly think a frankenbike is pretty cool. I connected with the trek guy and asked him about potential problems and he said it needs a new front brake cable (not bad), but he also said "you can ride IT...no problem...". Kind of a weird way to phrase it, should that be cause for concern? I don't mind getting maybe a new wheel or something (I'm sure I'll be able to source one cheap from a friend) but what would be the most concerning issue in your opinion? Obviously damage to the frame would be a deal breaker, but are there any parts that are a pain to replace otherwise? Also, not concerned with the downtube shifters, I have a buddy who has some extra indexed bar end shifters and he's happy to help me install them.
One of the reasons I felt comfortable buying the Frankenbike Gitane was, I knew the seller. He owned a bike shop and I was a regular customer. I knew from experience he wouldn't let a bike out the door in poor condition or unsafe to ride.
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I think I'm a bit late to the party, but in answer to the original question:
One option would be a late-1980's Trek Elance 400. Renyolds 531, decent Shimano drivetrain, and overall not that valuable a bike to begin with, so sometimes can be had within $75-125 if bought right.
There's no incentive for most sellers to swap components on these, as they're usually halfway decent to begin with - which will also work for you.
-Kurt
One option would be a late-1980's Trek Elance 400. Renyolds 531, decent Shimano drivetrain, and overall not that valuable a bike to begin with, so sometimes can be had within $75-125 if bought right.
There's no incentive for most sellers to swap components on these, as they're usually halfway decent to begin with - which will also work for you.
-Kurt
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The Shwinn traveler was a decent bike in some years. The Giant Perigee is a sleeper too. Find a bike with 700cm wheels and aero levers in decent shape. Throw in one with decent tires and your a winner.
Not sure about Chicago but the SoCal market always has someone clearing out their garage with a decent early 90's bike that lists it at $125. (That means $100). I'd stay away from flippers. Beat them to a garage sale bike and do a complete relube and maybe new tires on a $100 find. Good luck. Keep us posted.
Not sure about Chicago but the SoCal market always has someone clearing out their garage with a decent early 90's bike that lists it at $125. (That means $100). I'd stay away from flippers. Beat them to a garage sale bike and do a complete relube and maybe new tires on a $100 find. Good luck. Keep us posted.
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I’d vote for the Giant as well. Bought one for a daughter and have had no problems with it.
Question is, does it fit? Have you been sized for a frame?
Question is, does it fit? Have you been sized for a frame?
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Also some decent looking Raleigh's
in your price range.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/searc...&query=Raleigh
in your price range.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/searc...&query=Raleigh
#24
Thrifty Bill
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,523
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
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I honestly think a frankenbike is pretty cool. I connected with the trek guy and asked him about potential problems and he said it needs a new front brake cable (not bad), but he also said "you can ride IT...no problem...". Kind of a weird way to phrase it, should that be cause for concern? I don't mind getting maybe a new wheel or something (I'm sure I'll be able to source one cheap from a friend) but what would be the most concerning issue in your opinion? Obviously damage to the frame would be a deal breaker, but are there any parts that are a pain to replace otherwise? Also, not concerned with the downtube shifters, I have a buddy who has some extra indexed bar end shifters and he's happy to help me install them.
Anyone who presents a bike in that manner = run away, as fast as you can. He is looking for a sucker. Don't be one.
An experienced bike seller surely knows how to fix a brake. Not fixed = more complicated.
We have a seller in my area like this, I do occasionally buy bikes from him. But I can do all the repairs myself, I have piles of parts, I know values well (better than he does). So sometimes he will have a diamond in the rough. I try to get a bike before he "works" on them, as his work is terrible. Stuck seat posts and stems, rusty cables, wonky wheels, those are normal for the guy in my area.
Frankenbike might seem "cool" but more likely its a mess. In the vintage era, not all the brands were compatible with each other. As a minimum, both derailleurs and shift levers need to be the same brand.
Trust the experienced, knowledgeable, local guy (Steve above).
And IMHO, no better short distance commuter than the good old rigid frame MTB. Just aim high, get a good one. The difference in used pricing between a MTB that originally sold for $900 and one that originally sold for $250 is often $25 or less. Better MTBs will have better wheels, better components, better frame, better everything.
Last edited by wrk101; 05-28-19 at 08:12 AM.
#25
Senior Member
Most valuable part of any used bike is the stickers. See all posts above suggesting name brands. Stickers are just stickers. They do sell bikes. Second most valuable part is paint. Skeptical as I might sound I will buy a bike for paint. Most anyone will.
Unless you already know everything Everything! buy a bike that can be test ridden. One that scores as perfect on test ride. Sellers who say no test ride can be forgotten real quick.
One possible exception is garage queens that plainly have never been ridden. Or did 50 miles only many years ago. Now I'll tell you the secret of those. Many of them, probably the majority of them, have one great big original assembly error. Which is why they were never ridden. If you can analyze and identify that error quickly, and before you risk any of your own skin, and if you can repair that error for free with scavenged parts, if you can do all that then unused garage queens are great buys.
Clean looking bikes with desirable stickers that are going to be a nightmare sell for just about same price as exact same bike in perfect operating condition.
Unless you already know everything Everything! buy a bike that can be test ridden. One that scores as perfect on test ride. Sellers who say no test ride can be forgotten real quick.
One possible exception is garage queens that plainly have never been ridden. Or did 50 miles only many years ago. Now I'll tell you the secret of those. Many of them, probably the majority of them, have one great big original assembly error. Which is why they were never ridden. If you can analyze and identify that error quickly, and before you risk any of your own skin, and if you can repair that error for free with scavenged parts, if you can do all that then unused garage queens are great buys.
Clean looking bikes with desirable stickers that are going to be a nightmare sell for just about same price as exact same bike in perfect operating condition.