bikenoobDomane3

Kontact, no, that is not happening.

choddo

Not sure that logic follows?
If you adjust the cable tension, can you eliminate the sluggish shifting on the (a?) cog that’s got the problem - ignoring the fact for now it might mess everything else up.

bikenoobDomane3

Choddo, I think my logic is sound. The original hanger was adjusted twice, from 2 different bike shops, while they worked on my bike to fix this issue. Doing so didn't make any different in the shifting, it was still shifting badly after they were done. This new hanger is straight as can be. I have read/watched videos that say "yes, you can adjust the hanger to the bike, etc.". I do agree with that, but I don't think that is the issue here.
I have had the bike in the shop 4 times, and adjusted it myself 3 times (cable tension etc.). None of it has fixed this.

I'm going to try to get to 10 posts today, so I can post pics and a link to a Youtube video so you all can actually hear and see what is going on.

bikenoobDomane3

Here is a timeline of the work done:
1. Started shifting badly, so I adjusted both front/rear derailleurs myself. Couldn't fix it. Took it to LBS, had them put on a new chain, adjust the hanger (they said it was bent a bit), and adjust F/RD. Took it home, still shifting poorly.
2. Took to a reputable shop in another town (only have 1 local LBS, small town), where we checked the cabling. The cabling was getting worn, so I said to replace it with cabling that was on the same level (Jagwire was on it, and it's what I asked for, they said they had it in stock). At this shop they also adjusted the hanger. I picked it up, brought it home, and tested it. Still bad. That is when I noticed the cable housing was not Jagwire. So the next day, I took it back to that same shop and let them know they didn't give me what I asked for, and didn't fix the issue. They put the bike on the stand, tested it a bit and said it was fine. I said, no, it's not fine, it's horrible. Since they didn't have any quality housing (just the crappy Shimano stuff they had put on), I went down the street to another shop and bought Bontrager Pro cabling set. Went back to the shop, had them put on the cabling. They got done, I took it outside and test road it and it was still horrible. I got super mad and just left.
3. Next day, drove to the big city to a Trek dealer. They sold me a new rear cassette, R8000, and adjusted stuff, and said it was as good as they could get it. It was still shifting poorly.
4. I cleaned my shifters really well, lubed em up. I tried adjusting the RD again myself after another thorough clean/lube, still no joy.

So that is where I'm at now. I do have an appt. with the shop that put on the cabling, as I wrote a review of their service on Google and the shop manager contacted me, said he wanted to make it right. That's not until next Tuesday, as he is out of town this week.

70sSanO

Just wondering, how many miles do you have on this bike?

John

bikenoobDomane3

Let's see if I can now upload some pics and a link to a video.



This is the wear I'm referring to on the new cable. It was hidden underneath that broken housing.

Housing that is broken, removed it.

bikenoobDomane3

Hello John,
I don't know the exact mileage, but I'd say I probably have ridden it about an average of 2500 miles a year. Some years more, some less. I don't ride in the rain or snow or muck, only when it's dry. In the winter I ride it on my trainer. The first 4 years I had it, I was in WA. state, in the desert. The last 3, I've been on the Oregon coast.

CAT7RDR

I have a Kestrel with Ultegra 6800 and when I went from a 11-28 to a new 8000 GS rear mech and an 11-34 cassette the shifting was noticeably rougher in the 27-30-34 shifts.
I learned to live with it in that it took about 1 1/2 turns of the crank to complete the gear shifts vs the previous cassette with closer gear ranges. It required more finesse in my pedal stroke to nail it.

Just my experience. Don't know what cassette you are running?

Kontact 

Is the cassette on tight?

bikenoobDomane3

Hello Cat7,
My bike came with the Ultegra 6800 groupset, with the 11-28 cassette and 50/34 crankset. I replaced my cassette earlier this week, and now have the 11-28 R8000 cassette.

One thing I noticed today is that my freehub is sticking a bit, when I backpedal the bike on the stand the tire starts moving/picking up speed as I backpedal. I just ordered a new freehub from Trek, and will get that installed. Not sure if it will help with what I'm experiencing but it needs doing, so might as well do it now.

bikenoobDomane3

Hello Kontact,
Yes, the cassette was installed properly.

Kontact 

Was the cassette changed before or after the beginning of the problem?

How about a picture or video of the whole derailleur from the drive side of the bike.

Barry2 

I wouldn’t goof with it further until the new hanger has been aligned.

Barry

70sSanO

I apologize if this is new tech that I’m not familiar with, but none of that looks good.

I’ve been running Jagwire housing and Jagwire slick cables and have never seen a coating that peels. Unless Bontrager has cut some deal with Elixir… lol.

I’ve seen a shift housing liner pull through because of the wrong cable housing ferrule. But having the liner there means it is missing somewhere else. I’m guessing the cable is running against the housing strands where it broke loose.

John

bikenoobDomane3

Hi John,
Yeah, it seems off to me. My bike is in the shop right now getting the freehub replaced, and when I go pick it up next week I'm going to have the mechanic cut the end cap off the cable and I'm pulling it out to look at it. There should be no wear there at all. If there is, it's because the shop that installed the cabling messed it up. I'll know more this coming week. Until then I guess I just will take a break from thinking about it haha.

Kontact 

Was no one able to simply lubricate the freehub pawls?

Barry2 

Please do have them align the new hanger while it's in the shop.
It's a cheap job.

The new hanger I installed on my Cervelo R3 was WAY off and beyond the 3mm / 1/8" Shimano spec.
I know, not all new hangers will require it, but if yours does you'll never get great shifting.


Barry

Kontact 

The "wear" on the cable and "broken housing" appear to be things now missing from your bike. Current Shimano derailleurs have these little black guides that are supposed to be replaced with the cable that help prevent the coating getting rubbed off.

70sSanO

Not familiar with coated cables. But I guess the cable stops/housing ferrules, and BB guides, maybe not the BB guide, need them or else the problem just moves elsewhere?

John

base2 

I fully support and endorse the only possible solution to problems of these epic proportions: Dura-Ace. It's the only fix.

Kontact 

I don't know about move, but the cable rubs on the derailleur as shown if you don't have a good cable guard in place, and they do wear out. They drop in from the where the housing and cable inserts.

Crankycrank

A longshot but remove the wheel and grab the stays to check for movement in case there is a slight crack developing somewhere on the bike. If nothing else you can at least rule that out.

choddo

So that bulge in the cable tail thing was that stuff in the first photo? That doesn’t look like the kind of coating I was expecting. Wonder what that is.

Shimano outers are fine by the way, I don’t have any issues with them.

KCT1986

What looks like the bulge in the 'cover with tongue' seems to be just the piece flaring out, since it is cracked. You can see the inner cable through the crack.

choddo

aha thanks
when I first looked thought that was a light reflection on the sleeve