somebikeguy 

Hey all thanks to all who weighed in on my late(r) model SwissCross canti brake build. I had a “wanted” ad up from when I was looking for that bike and couldn’t say no when offered a very early 1996 frameset.

The fork was signed 11/8/1996 and the BB shell is stamped 0050. I believe this places it pretty darn early!






For that reason I’d like to restore not replace as much as I can. The BB bearings were very crunchy so I pulled the shells and spindle. The spindle is in fantastic shape, cleaned up nice. For the life of me I can not figure out if the shells are serviceable. I turned up a mandrel on the lathe in attempt to press out what looks like a bearing but can not get it to budge from either side.

Here is an ebay listing for a similar BB and some photos of mine.





Pic from a NOS box - wonder if “integral” bearings mean they are in fact not servicable?


Here is a listing for “bearings” which include the shells.

somebikeguy 

i’m trying to remove these downtube adjusters to clean them. I cannot figure out how to remove them. On other frames I have seen bosses braised to the downtube and the adjuster is held on by an external fastener. That does not appear to be the case here there is no internal hex or any fastener but I do see threads inside the adjuster. Does anyone have any hints?

base2 

The fit on the downtube shifter boss adaptors can be very tight. Bordering on press-fit with the bolt as merely insurance. You'll just have to sit & work at it. They should tug right off. I'd avoid prying with a screwdriver or anything that could mar the surface. But, if you must, do so gently. It'll come.

somebikeguy 

Much appreciated. I think I can live with cleaning the adjusters while leaving them on the frame.

My bike came to me with no fasteners, you don't happen to have a photo or description of the bolts do you?

somebikeguy 

Found some pics - looks like it was a basic panhead. Solved and moved on.

i used my park tool frame alignment gauge to determine the rear needed a few mm work to be square. I made the adjustment using Sheldon’s technique.


I have loose ball bearing arriving to rebuild the original headset. I need to make a call on the bottom bracket. White Industries is the Nice one. At a price. Tempted. But open to suggestions of more budget friendly yet reasonable. Believe I need a 107 or 108 based on my measurements of the rear chainline.

Ill also need a crankset and chainring: will be running one-by. This is another reason to keep it with White Ind. that and my partiality to keeping as much on this bike US made as possible.

somebikeguy 

Well I am a bit disappointed to find that my 35mm panaracer gravelkings really don't fit at the back. I've used these tires in a few different widths of different bikes and they've always been pretty true to size but these seem a tad large maybe 36mm. Bummer...
For ten seconds I thought "I'll dimple the stays like they are on the later model Swiss Cross" but concluded this is likely heresy.

somebikeguy 

Gettin there…

RB1-luvr

so nice. I wouldn't mind having one of these.

somebikeguy 

Sounds like you have some 90’s roadbike gold yourself

I will be selling my Gen 2 Canti / Carbon fork Swiss Cross frame soon.

t2p

our 35mm Gravel King SS tires measure close to 37mm ... and that is on relatively narrow rims ...

the 32’s ran small ... of course ...

somebikeguy 

Argh this was a fiasco. I tried 35mm Gravelkings: No dice. I tried 33mm Challenge CX: no dice. Went to a 32mm Gravelking. In business.

somebikeguy 

Okay I think we are ready for a test ride!

somebikeguy 

She rides! I love her. I do want a sealed headset. Any suggestions for a 1" threaded, sealed headset that is worthy of this fine steed and its White Industries, Paul built list?

bOsscO

Chris King makes a 1" https://chrisking.com/collections/ch...=8356250877997

somebikeguy 

Threaded tho ?

bOsscO

This one's threaded; https://chrisking.com/collections/gr...eadset-gripnut

somebikeguy 

It's certainly nice. The funny thing is I want more not less stack height. Strange they don't list the stack height? I am going to get rolling with a "FSA Duron" which worked for my commuter and looks non-offensive then see if anything cooler walks into my life.

somebikeguy 

Installed this FSA headset which I’ve used on other bikes with success. I couldn’t find a good setting that would neither knock nor bind so I opened it up and looked at the seals which seemed like they were dragging on the races. I put a little bit of Dow 111 in the rubber and rotated the races by hand until they felt better. it feels good now I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered this sort of binding on headsets which have seals ?

somebikeguy 

Well strange stuff. This year I've swapped three threaded headsets and this is the only one I'm having issues with. It seems to go from knocking/loose to binding with nowhere in between. I suppose this suggests something may not be square. I installed the cups the same way I've installed them on the other two bikes, one of which I used the exact same headset. I will note that I bought it on ebay and it came in an unmarked box, but I did the same with the previous one on my Lemond and no issue there. Will have to keep trying.

t2p

???

was the head tube faced ?

somebikeguy 

Not to my knowledge.

Fentuz

I did get something like that last year. I swapped the headset and I kept having the issue so I when to a friendly LBS and they started to pull things apart and were getting similar issues. After further investigations, we found that there were 2 fork race crowns fitted on top of each other. removed, new one, perfect since then.

somebikeguy 

I blame these seals. Pulled them out and it all of a sudden feels normal again. Still shaking it down but rode a dozen gravely miles and feeling better about it.

somebikeguy 

Anyone have a bright headlight they like? I got this for my commuter, it can be used at dusk but not for real after sunset rides. Which sadly there will have to be more of soon.

https://us.knog.com/products/pwr-rid...ont-bike-light

base2 

Did you install the seals upside down? It is a fairly common mistake. I've done it an embarassing number of times.

Though I don't think this is the case with your headset, sometimes, in some headsets there is a washer that goes in the stack up under the top cover to prevent excessive compression of the gasket.

To your other question. A really suitable headlight ought to be about double the output of the one you linked to. Moreso than lumens of output there is also the diffusion pattern to consider. A sharp horizontal cut off at the horizon and a wide pattern diffusion will provide better illumination and better night vision than a tight, bright laserbeam.

There are 2 seperate and distantly related measuring systems. IIRC One is lumen, the other is Lux. Lux refers to the density of output. Lumen is the total amount. Neither really tells you the how suitable a light is for a particular environment.

For example an intensely bright spot with no side throw can leave you nightblind outside the excessively bright focal point leaving you susceptable to surprises from cross traffic and side hazards.

In an urban environment with street lights, etc..I've found I prefer Expelion 850 or equivalent Lumia Niterider. Also, equally preferred (maybe a bit more) is a 100 lux B&M IQ10x.

For out in the woods with no light whatsoever, 2 or 3 of the above lights set close, medium, and distant works better than the external battery 1600 lumen ultrabright options.