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BDop DIY Kinlin wheelset or Shimano 6800 wheelset?

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BDop DIY Kinlin wheelset or Shimano 6800 wheelset?

Old 02-12-15, 04:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
Yes it's a great deal, but my concern is the seam on the hoop. Is there any problem with brake pulsing?

I hope he chimes in with wheel weights.
Kinlin seams are as smooth as a baby's bottom. Never had any pulsing with perhaps 12 examples.
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Old 02-12-15, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
That's a little why the decision is tough. Building the wheels is no big deal(It's my side job), but if the 6800 wheels use strictly proprietary spokes its a deal breaker.

I have some Stan's hoops that are tubeless, but I use tubes and Michelin Pro4 tires because I get them cheap(and the ride is phenomenal). Tubeless tires are expensive.
You can use tubes in a tubeless rim, but it is not ideal from what I hear. A little crowded.
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Old 02-12-15, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
I had great luck with my XR-270 hoops, but read something on the Fairwheel bike blog about pulse issues.
Not in the 2013 review - https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/2013-rim-roundup/
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Old 02-12-15, 04:54 PM
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I don't care about replacement spoke cost, but I would hate to be stuck on a ride, unable to get home without help. J-bend spokes are at every shop, but proprietary spokes can be a Beotch.
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Old 02-12-15, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
You can use tubes in a tubeless rim, but it is not ideal from what I hear. A little crowded.
No problem on my Stans hoops.

Tubeless tires just cost too much(IMO).

I ride a boatload of miles, and doubling my tire cost would cut into my Happy Hour money.
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Old 02-12-15, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rjones28
I haven't felt any pulsing on my XC-279 hoops.
Same here.

My 300's were a whole nuther story.
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Old 02-12-15, 06:03 PM
  #32  
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I have a set of XC-279's w/ CX-Rays but if I were buying now I'd get the new Kinlin XR-31t (or the BHS branded version.)
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Old 02-12-15, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
No.

I was hoping to get a little feedback on 6800 wheelsets. A friend in SLC has a set, but his technical feedback is a little less than I'd like before making a purchase. The spoke details are my biggest concern.
It's a great wheelset for people who don't build their own wheels. I'd get the Bdop kit or the Pacenti kit.

Back when there was a sale on, I picked up a stack of Kinlin rims for $12 each shipped. I'm good for a while.

Where's Bdop been, anyway?
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Old 02-12-15, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
That's a little why the decision is tough. Building the wheels is no big deal(It's my side job), but if the 6800 wheels use strictly proprietary spokes its a deal breaker.

I have some Stan's hoops that are tubeless, but I use tubes and Michelin Pro4 tires because I get them cheap(and the ride is phenomenal). Tubeless tires are expensive.
I think they use their own spokes but obviously you can get replacements. I personally wouldn't care, but I never break spokes. I was on the verge of buying the 6800 wheelset but then I found a killer deal on some 1400g Techlite's.
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Old 02-12-15, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunbar
if I were buying now I'd get the new Kinlin XR-31t (or the BHS branded version.)
I was going to offer the same comment; they're a bit wider (24 mm), a bit deeper (31 mm) and similar weight.
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Old 02-12-15, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
I don't care about replacement spoke cost, but I would hate to be stuck on a ride, unable to get home without help. J-bend spokes are at every shop, but proprietary spokes can be a Beotch.
You just wrap the broken spoke around the one next to it, open up your caliper some and ride home. If you have a spoke wrench you can loosen the two opposing spokes some to true it up a little better.
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Old 02-12-15, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
You just wrap the broken spoke around the one next to it, open up your caliper some and ride home. If you have a spoke wrench you can loosen the two opposing spokes some to true it up a little better.
It's great to see you have a lot of theoretical miles under your belt.

Try that with a triplet laced hub.
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Old 02-14-15, 06:40 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by deacon mark
Get those Bdop they are great 2500 miles on mine roll well. I built them
and can so that makes it easy. Not even touched them up still true. Weight is good I think 1660 24/28.
How's the NDS spoke tension with Novatech hubs? Did you use a tensiometer when building your wheels?
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Old 02-14-15, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
It's great to see you have a lot of theoretical miles under your belt.

Try that with a triplet laced hub.
Yeah, and Zero Gravity brakes that don't open up a whole lot.
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Old 02-14-15, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Yeah, and Zero Gravity brakes that don't open up a whole lot.
It's very rare for me to break a spoke, but it's a big deal when it happens to a NDS spoke on a triplet laced wheel. The brakes weren't the issue for me, but the wheel wouldn't pass through the seat/chain stays.
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Old 02-14-15, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
It's very rare for me to break a spoke, but it's a big deal when it happens to a NDS spoke on a triplet laced wheel. The brakes weren't the issue for me, but the wheel wouldn't pass through the seat/chain stays.
This might interest you:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...-9000-etc.html
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Old 02-14-15, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
Yes it's a great deal, but my concern is the seam on the hoop. Is there any problem with brake pulsing?

I hope he chimes in with wheel weights.
I've built 2 wheelsets with 279s and all four rims were very true before building and had almost imperceptible seems. Much better than my A23s were out of the box in both respects. Another plus is at least compared to the XR300s I but for my wife the brake track is much taller. Makes for easier wheel swaps with different rims.

One small negative is that like other kinlins using decent pads is a must. One of the sets I built was for my brother who is a cheapskate. His no-name pads caused squealing shard issues until swapped for some Koolstops.
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Old 02-14-15, 09:20 PM
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And fwiw, I used to build my wheels with either shimano or white industries hubs. I tried novatec for some cheap race wheels and now I use the one with the ABG almost exclusively. They roll great, have been durable and the ABG works as well as a TI cassette holder at stopping gauges.
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Old 02-14-15, 09:40 PM
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I've owned a set of the 7900 C24 wheels. I'm not hard on wheels but I had 2 spokes break. The first was a front. With only 16 spokes up front (like the Ultegras), the wheel went so far out of true that it was unrideable.

The second was a rear NDS spoke. I was able to get home but in both cases, the replacement spokes were expensive and took awhile to get.

I love the Shimano wheels. They ride really nice, are light, and very responsive. However, not a fan of any low spoke count wheels regardless of who makes them.
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Old 02-14-15, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bobonker
I've owned a set of the 7900 C24 wheels. I'm not hard on wheels but I had 2 spokes break. The first was a front. With only 16 spokes up front (like the Ultegras), the wheel went so far out of true that it was unrideable.

The second was a rear NDS spoke. I was able to get home but in both cases, the replacement spokes were expensive and took awhile to get.

I love the Shimano wheels. They ride really nice, are light, and very responsive. However, not a fan of any low spoke count wheels regardless of who makes them.
IME, 28 spoked wheels are ride-able if a spoke breaks. so darn it! now i'm going to have to loosen one of the spokes on my 24 spoked wheels and see what's what. wait a minute...

novatech 24h very low-flange hub. very low-profile 24h carbon tubular rim, 24h double butted sapim laser spokes, 24 aluminum nipples. results? wheel is way out of true, but spins freely once quick release mechanism is opened. i didn't even have to touch things up by tightening adjacent same side spokes and loosening opposite side spokes. methinks the rim has a lot to do with this.

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Old 02-15-15, 05:01 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
It's great to see you have a lot of theoretical miles under your belt.

Try that with a triplet laced hub.
What's up with the attitude? The Ultegra wheel isn't triplet laced. if you re-read the thread you'll know what wheel we're discussing.
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Old 02-15-15, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by canam73
I've built 2 wheelsets with 279s and all four rims were very true before building and had almost imperceptible seems. Much better than my A23s were out of the box in both respects. Another plus is at least compared to the XR300s I but for my wife the brake track is much taller. Makes for easier wheel swaps with different rims.

One small negative is that like other kinlins using decent pads is a must. One of the sets I built was for my brother who is a cheapskate. His no-name pads caused squealing shard issues until swapped for some Koolstops.
Yes, I have found Velocity rims to not be very flat out of the box and hard to true at the seam relative to the much better Kinlins.
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Old 02-15-15, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
How's the NatDS spoke tension with Novatech hubs? Did you use a tensiometer when building your wheels?
Came out about 125 on the DS with park tensionmeter about 23-24 and then 17 on the NDS. I think I was around 70% of the DS and I think that is just fine. Normally I prefer the offset rear but in this case they came out sweet. I also now am a believer in not going too expensive on the hubs. The WI and DT swiss in my opinion are just overkill paying much for little or no gain. These novatecs are nice hub and look good too.
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Old 02-15-15, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by deacon mark
Came out about 125 on the DS with park tensionmeter about 23-24 and then 17 on the NDS. I think I was around 70% of the DS and I think that is just fine. Normally I prefer the offset rear but in this case they came out sweet. I also now am a believer in not going too expensive on the hubs. The WI and DT swiss in my opinion are just overkill paying much for little or no gain. These novatecs are nice hub and look good too.
What spokes are those? I can't find any common ones that have those tensions and corresponding tensiometer readings. The correlation isn't linear, you know, so you can't just take 17/23 or 17/24 and assume the tensions are in the same ratio. I think if you got readings of 17 and 24, the NDS/DS tension ratio was quite a bit lower than 70%. Maybe not problematic, but still it is important to know the reality.

I agree with you about not paying more for hubs. I just don't see what you get for your money besides bling.
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Old 02-15-15, 09:26 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by deacon mark
Came out about 125 on the DS with park tensionmeter about 23-24 and then 17 on the NDS. I think I was around 70% of the DS and I think that is just fine. Normally I prefer the offset rear but in this case they came out sweet. I also now am a believer in not going too expensive on the hubs. The WI and DT swiss in my opinion are just overkill paying much for little or no gain. These novatecs are nice hub and look good too.
Thanks. That's what I needed to know.
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