Ungodly fixed cup bottom bracket
#1
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Ungodly fixed cup bottom bracket
I'm trying to take a fixed bottom bracket cup off a Specialized Crossroads cruz frame, (Early 90's)
I first tried the bench vice method to no avail, and then I moved on to Sheldon Brown's bolt tool method.
However, after excrutiating tightening, the bolt still moves when I turn it. The hex end is through the inside and the bolts on the outside, I'm using about 20 washers because I can't find the extension on my socket wrench. I've put all my weight in leverage into sitting over the frame and pushing my arms in opposite directions tightening then turning counter-clockwise but the bolt still moves!?. I believe it's one of satan's minions reincarnated as a fixed cup. I can't say for sure, but I have my suspicions.
Any help please? I'm selling the frame, so I thought I should take it out as a challenge to my shop skills. What a mistake that was. I wish I had some power tools or I'd take a diamond-bladed angle grinder to it
I'm very close to voting for destruction. Anyone know of any sinisterly funs ways to destroy this thing?(Without hurting the BB/threads, of course)
I first tried the bench vice method to no avail, and then I moved on to Sheldon Brown's bolt tool method.
However, after excrutiating tightening, the bolt still moves when I turn it. The hex end is through the inside and the bolts on the outside, I'm using about 20 washers because I can't find the extension on my socket wrench. I've put all my weight in leverage into sitting over the frame and pushing my arms in opposite directions tightening then turning counter-clockwise but the bolt still moves!?. I believe it's one of satan's minions reincarnated as a fixed cup. I can't say for sure, but I have my suspicions.
Any help please? I'm selling the frame, so I thought I should take it out as a challenge to my shop skills. What a mistake that was. I wish I had some power tools or I'd take a diamond-bladed angle grinder to it
I'm very close to voting for destruction. Anyone know of any sinisterly funs ways to destroy this thing?(Without hurting the BB/threads, of course)
Last edited by Mr_Wrench; 08-20-09 at 07:48 PM.
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isn't it an english BB?
drive side: turn clockwise to loosen.
drive side: turn clockwise to loosen.
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#3
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I recently has a similar stuck cup, in my case a 7400 DA on a 1992 Paramount. I did eventually get it out with a Sheldon tool after a shop failed and the vice didn't work. My set up used 4 locking washers on the inside (like sheldons) and a deep socket to reach in. I also had large end wrench to grip with on the outside. I still had to resort to tapping the wrench handle with a hammer to get it moving, which did with the frame upside down on it's stays on carpeted basement floor. I was amazed to see after all that the threads were clean and rust fee. It was just on that tight. Good luck.
Steven.
Steven.
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I knew I forgot something. So, I got my split lock washers, I tightened super-tight then the threads were stripped off and my bolt broke in half. I wasn't exaggerrating when I called this thing one of satan's minions.
See for yourself:
So seriously, anyone have good suggestions for destroying this thing safely? The other cup had rust in it, so this side probably does too. Even worse the threads may be stripped. God only knows how hard it will be to get off if that's the case. Any suggestions? Please, help I've exhausted my resources
See for yourself:
So seriously, anyone have good suggestions for destroying this thing safely? The other cup had rust in it, so this side probably does too. Even worse the threads may be stripped. God only knows how hard it will be to get off if that's the case. Any suggestions? Please, help I've exhausted my resources
Last edited by Mr_Wrench; 08-21-09 at 02:29 PM.
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This method will take a while, but it should work. Using a keyhole saw, VERY CAREFULLY make two cuts from the center towards the shell about 60 degrees apart (like 5 and 7 o'clock). Be sure not to cut so far that you cut into the threads, but far enough that there is very little material left. Then you can use a hammer and punch (or screwdriver) to knock out the small section, and that should give the cup a little room to move inside the threads. Use the punch to tap the remaining section clockwise to remove the cup.
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i think you need to start over but this time put insert the bolt from the outside and washers and such in the inside. Loosening a fixed i believe requires clockwise turn and not counterclockwise.
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I know it is nice to be able to do things yourself but just what do you guys have against bike shops? sure it might cot you a few dollars to get this out but.. isn't that worth the lack of aggrivation?
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And try a bigger, and higher grade bolt. Get a big friend to sit on the frame in the yard and crank on the new, big bolt with the longest lever you need.
jim
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#9
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If it helps, the bolt in my set up was a 5/8 grade 8. Washers on the inside and turned the outside wrench clockwise.
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I knew I forgot something. So, I got my split lock washers, I tightened super-tight then the threads were stripped off and my bolt broke in half. I wasn't exaggerrating when I called this thing one of satan's minions.
So seriously, anyone have good suggestions for destroying this thing safely? The other cup had rust in it, so this side probably does too. Even worse the threads may be stripped. God only knows how hard it will be to get off if that's the case. Any suggestions? Please, help I've exhausted my resources
So seriously, anyone have good suggestions for destroying this thing safely? The other cup had rust in it, so this side probably does too. Even worse the threads may be stripped. God only knows how hard it will be to get off if that's the case. Any suggestions? Please, help I've exhausted my resources
Why not just bite the bullet and take it to a shop.
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var's tool is indeed excellent, but not necessary. you just need a method to secure your fixed cup wrench to the cup. i use the headset cup press at the shop, but if i didn't have access to my tools, i would make one out of two large washers, all thread and two bolts. this will keep your tool on the cup as you put all your weight onto it. i like to increase leverage with the frame and fork tool. have yet to be defeated (i don't like using the n word when it comes to bike mechanics...)
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the bench vise method is good if you have an assistant to help keep the bike parallel to the vise jaws, and the shallow cup flats in the jaws.
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Aye
I have been in the same pickle more often than I care to remember.
Try some penetrating solvent, Liquid Wrench or similar. Try a lot of it.
Also try gently heating the frame with a hairdryer while icing the cup, so the frame will expand and the cup will contract. I have freed many a dickish metal part this way.
Try some penetrating solvent, Liquid Wrench or similar. Try a lot of it.
Also try gently heating the frame with a hairdryer while icing the cup, so the frame will expand and the cup will contract. I have freed many a dickish metal part this way.
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Use a hacksaw.
Cut 4 times. If the cup was a compass, cut it at North, south, east, and west. Once you do that, then chizzle the 4 pieces out. This is very last resort, worked though.
Cut 4 times. If the cup was a compass, cut it at North, south, east, and west. Once you do that, then chizzle the 4 pieces out. This is very last resort, worked though.
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Ive got a frame thats got a stuck cup.
I tried the bolt.
I ground slots in it and thumped it with a chisel.
Nothing moves it.
I tried the bolt.
I ground slots in it and thumped it with a chisel.
Nothing moves it.
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try hitting the face of the cups with a hammer a few times. i found this loosens a lot of things
that are tight or stuck or rusted.
that are tight or stuck or rusted.
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Soak it in PB blaster. Not the knock of "BLASTER" that WalMart sells, use the real stuff. After letting that seep in for 24 hours, then go back to the Sheldon Tool. Alternatively, find a VAR tool. I've got one you can use, but you'll have to travel to the middle of Indiana to use it.
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I'd be surprised if Acme Bicycle Company in Kansas City didn't have the proper tool for this.
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+1 for PB B'laster
ps Walmart sells the real stuff too
ps Walmart sells the real stuff too
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I had trouble with Sheldon's tool with the nut on the outside. Nut and spacer washers need to go on the inside. You need grade 8 bolt and nut. Haven't met a fixed cup that won't succumb (over time!) to PB blaster and the Sheldon tool.
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Thanks everyone for weighing in. I'm still battling it out with this BB cup.
I think I'm going to try the healing/cooling method with the sheldon tool next. Say I heat the BB to *400, and ice the cup how much expansion are we talking about half a milimeter? Less?
I think I'm going to try the healing/cooling method with the sheldon tool next. Say I heat the BB to *400, and ice the cup how much expansion are we talking about half a milimeter? Less?
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I'd be surprised if Acme Bicycle Company in Kansas City didn't have the proper tool for this.
First off the backstory, It should be known I pulled this out of a parts bin(plastic crate), got my hands greasy, and after showing me some overpriced alloy spidered cranks($130) and telling her I didn't have much to spend. This lady(or rather succubus disguised as a lady) refused to barter with me on the price. I know everybody has their opinion on bartering. I figure it's used, sitting on the ground in a bin, I can make an offer. I offer $20, she says $25. I ask for a dollar off, and she wouldn't even give me that. I know everyone has bills to pay but that's just plain hard-nosed. It's not like the used parts are flying off the shelves, I'm buying an outdated crankarm set, I'm practically doing her a favor. I'm half jewish and I'm not even that tight with money!
Totally out-of-place and totally off-topic but I felt it had to be said.
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I'd rather have my scrotum removed with a vice grip than go there again. I was there a couple weeks thinking I could get a good deal. I was in the market for a used crank arm set, and I found this 165mm shimano tourney crank.(Non-spider) the lady working there(An older lady, the owner I believe).
First off the backstory, It should be known I pulled this out of a parts bin(plastic crate), got my hands greasy, and after showing me some overpriced alloy spidered cranks($130) and telling her I didn't have much to spend. This lady(or rather succubus disguised as a lady) refused to barter with me on the price. I know everybody has their opinion on bartering. I figure it's used, sitting on the ground in a bin, I can make an offer. I offer $20, she says $25. I ask for a dollar off, and she wouldn't even give me that. I know everyone has bills to pay but that's just plain hard-nosed. It's not like the used parts are flying off the shelves, I'm buying an outdated crankarm set, I'm practically doing her a favor. I'm half jewish and I'm not even that tight with money!
Totally out-of-place and totally off-topic but I felt it had to be said.
First off the backstory, It should be known I pulled this out of a parts bin(plastic crate), got my hands greasy, and after showing me some overpriced alloy spidered cranks($130) and telling her I didn't have much to spend. This lady(or rather succubus disguised as a lady) refused to barter with me on the price. I know everybody has their opinion on bartering. I figure it's used, sitting on the ground in a bin, I can make an offer. I offer $20, she says $25. I ask for a dollar off, and she wouldn't even give me that. I know everyone has bills to pay but that's just plain hard-nosed. It's not like the used parts are flying off the shelves, I'm buying an outdated crankarm set, I'm practically doing her a favor. I'm half jewish and I'm not even that tight with money!
Totally out-of-place and totally off-topic but I felt it had to be said.