Aero levers or not for 1988 Alan ‘cross build?
#1
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Aero levers or not for 1988 Alan ‘cross build?
I’m a relatively recent vintage bike junkie and I’m new here, so “hello!”
I’m building a 1988 Alan cross frame up and I’m going with a mostly period correct theme. I thought I was going to use modern brake levers but now that I’ve roughed the build together I just can’t.
I love the look of the Shimano 600 drillium levers but they’re non aero and can’t decide if that’s okay to me. Just looking for some input as to the aesthetics and to how period correct the non aero look would come across? I believe that in 88 bikes were found with both options? I don’t see many cx bikes from that era with non aero levers.
You folks are the experts. Whatcha think??
I’m building a 1988 Alan cross frame up and I’m going with a mostly period correct theme. I thought I was going to use modern brake levers but now that I’ve roughed the build together I just can’t.
I love the look of the Shimano 600 drillium levers but they’re non aero and can’t decide if that’s okay to me. Just looking for some input as to the aesthetics and to how period correct the non aero look would come across? I believe that in 88 bikes were found with both options? I don’t see many cx bikes from that era with non aero levers.
You folks are the experts. Whatcha think??
#2
~>~
Doing a series of quick clean ride/dis-mount/shoulder/carry/run/obstacle/drop/re-mounts/rides at race pace w/o the possibility of fouling a hand on a cable loop is why aero levers were adopted for 'Cross racing "back when". Find a set of Diacompe 1st generation "Aero" levers for the most popular re-fit by 'Cross racers in the era if being all period-correct-ish.
-Bandera
-Bandera
#3
Full Member
In the '80s, competitors often used older components mixed with the most modern ones. Eg. Sean Kelly competed with old style pedals with toe clips in the early '90s.
My ars poetic: if possible a complete set from the frame production time. Older parts, as I wrote above, can still be ideologized. Newer? Hmm ... It is certainly more practical to use than the older ones.
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I decided to pull the trigger on some Dia Compe Aero Gran Compes. With the drilled out levers and gum hoods I’ll get the look I like hut with aero routing.
thanks for the input!
thanks for the input!
#5
Banned
Be mindful you are into non repairability once the metal fatigue shows up in cracked 'lugs'
Not even sure if you pony up the hefty air freight to Italy and back, if they still repair them..
they too have gone on to welding and oversize tube.
Not even sure if you pony up the hefty air freight to Italy and back, if they still repair them..
they too have gone on to welding and oversize tube.
#6
Death fork? Naaaah!!
FWIW, I have both an Alan and a Vitus 979 and don't worry about cracked lugs. If it happens, it happens.
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#7
~>~
Frames of all flavors of materiel and eras fail in service, this is not news.
This Alan seems to be chugging right along w/o catastrophic failure, and likely to do so for a while.
-Bandera
#8
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I like aero levers because they provide about 10 to 15 percent more braking leverage. If you grip is super-strong, this won't matter, and might even be considered a disadvantage.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Welcome to the forums - pics needed!
Somewhere around here I have a Bicycle Quarterly where Jan Heine revived his old Alan and raced it. I seem to remember non-aero levers and barcons. I’ll try to find it later today.
BTW my 10 year old Alan cross bike is carbon tubes glued to aluminum lugs and rear triangle. Great bike.
Somewhere around here I have a Bicycle Quarterly where Jan Heine revived his old Alan and raced it. I seem to remember non-aero levers and barcons. I’ll try to find it later today.
BTW my 10 year old Alan cross bike is carbon tubes glued to aluminum lugs and rear triangle. Great bike.
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
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Well, then, multiple pic it is!
I realized today that I didn't have the front cable hanger that I thought I had so had to source that, and found out that the rear tubular is shot so I'll need to replace that. (Good thing I have some saved up just in case....)
I realized today that I didn't have the front cable hanger that I thought I had so had to source that, and found out that the rear tubular is shot so I'll need to replace that. (Good thing I have some saved up just in case....)
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I'd go aero simply for the lack of cables to get caught in. If there's a way to catch a body part on a cable, I'll find it.
I'd suggest Modolo Aero, as they are super light, have great feel due to the extra pulley's leverage, but you'd have to be careful on placement; they are not a great reach. However, they are no worse than the one pictured above.
I'd suggest Modolo Aero, as they are super light, have great feel due to the extra pulley's leverage, but you'd have to be careful on placement; they are not a great reach. However, they are no worse than the one pictured above.
#16
Banned
As the all aluminum fork is very flexible, it is a good place for mini V brakes..
Tried to be clever with a drilled stem, Applying the front brakes, It was sending the fork into vibrating like a tuning
fork..
Looked good though..
Tried to be clever with a drilled stem, Applying the front brakes, It was sending the fork into vibrating like a tuning
fork..
Looked good though..
#17
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@Spaghetti Legs, Neat pick of Jan. Note that should be barcon (not barcons), along with what looks like one of his R.Herse cranks with inner & outer chainguard.
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I love that pic of Jan Heine racing the old bike.
I got my bike finished a few days ago and did my first ride today. It was a ton of fun. I can definitely see racing it for giggles.
As soon as I get enough posts I’ll get pictures up.
I got my bike finished a few days ago and did my first ride today. It was a ton of fun. I can definitely see racing it for giggles.
As soon as I get enough posts I’ll get pictures up.
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Now: pedal choice?
I have a couple of rides on the bike now. What a ton of fun.
Im currently using Clipless pedals but I’m thinking I’ll go to clips and straps soon.
What would be period correct? Not that I’m all that period-perfect anyway, but what the heck, right??
Pics soon: I’m getting close to 10 posts!
Im currently using Clipless pedals but I’m thinking I’ll go to clips and straps soon.
What would be period correct? Not that I’m all that period-perfect anyway, but what the heck, right??
Pics soon: I’m getting close to 10 posts!
#21
~>~
I have a couple of rides on the bike now. What a ton of fun.
Im currently using Clipless pedals but I’m thinking I’ll go to clips and straps soon.
What would be period correct? Not that I’m all that period-perfect anyway, but what the heck, right??
Pics soon: I’m getting close to 10 posts!
Im currently using Clipless pedals but I’m thinking I’ll go to clips and straps soon.
What would be period correct? Not that I’m all that period-perfect anyway, but what the heck, right??
Pics soon: I’m getting close to 10 posts!
of us raced 'Cross on the inexpensive flat two-sided Atom 440 pedals w/ steel toe clips & leather straps.
The "trick-set-up" came straight from BMX racing in the '80's when Campagnolo jumped into that exploding market with BMX pedals with dual flat serrated quills in cheerful colors.
My pair moved onto the MTB for the early years of NORBA racing and are still in weekly service on the town bike w/ the nylon toeclips and straps that have surviving many a root-strike and coating of mud over the decades.
-Bandera
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I’ve looked at some Campy mtb pedals on the auction site but MAN the prices being asked are silly. Pedals would cost me not much less than the whole rest of the build!
Those Atoms might be pretty trick. Thanks!
Those Atoms might be pretty trick. Thanks!
#23
~>~
The Campag BMX pedals were quickly knocked off by Japanese mfgs like MKS at much lower prices for the same function and are still available today.
If you install a modern pair and cover them w/ mud I won't tell the Period Correct Police if you don't....
All of the monkey-motion involved in using 'clips & straps went away as soon as Shimano introduced dedicated MTB/"Cross SPD clipless pedals.
Slow, fumbly and awkward can be eliminated w/ a simple "click" if one wishes to, much like indexed shifting could also.
-Bandera
Last edited by Bandera; 05-20-18 at 07:48 AM.