RubeRad

I have this kit that I bought from Nashbar probably 15 years ago (I've seen the exact same kit branded many ways, this link is now Spin Doctor)

After probably 10-20 successful uses, the BB tool died today, mushing out so the splines are now useless. Time to invest in a real tool.

That Spin Doctor link just says
So I'm not exactly sure -- is that the same as BBT-22 and this Pedro's 20-spline tool? (Why would Park name the 20-spline tool the BBT-22 instead of the BBT-20?)

Crankycrank

Yes, the Pedros tool in your link is the same as the Park BBT-22. Can't vouch for sure how good the Pedros tool is but I would guess it's a quality tool. I own one of the Park BBT-22's and it's solid. Probably would rip your BB shell out of the frame before the tool would fail. The "22" is just their part designation having nothing to do with the number of splines. I also own a Spin Doctor version and there is some minor damage on the teeth while the Park looks the same as when I bought it new years ago.

Bike Gremlin

I like this tool by Shimano - very durable (you need a 32 mm socket/wrench to "operate" it):
TL-UN74-S

The good thing about its design is I can easily put some spacers (if the axle is so long it protrudes when the tool is put in place) and washers to keep it in place using a square taper crank bolt.
That helps a lot when starting to unscrew some very stuck bottom brackets.

Relja

JoeTBM 

Same tool. Park Tool numbers their items in order, so it was the 22nd BBT tool they made..

Just curious, have you tried grinding down the tooth end of the Nashbar tool so you have a fresh surface, might need some clean up with a small file to get burrs off.

Bill Kapaun

Do you use a bolt to retain the tool?

Garthr

I wouldn't hesitate to buy the Pedro's tool as it's as shop worthy as any Park tool. I'm surprised any splined BB tool would fail though as the splines of cartridges are usually the weakest link, especially if aluminum. Some cartridges also have notably more shallow splines, notably the RPM/FSA 7420 models. Shimano and Tange are nice and deep. Making sure the splines are engaged fully is also a no brainer regardless of the tool or BB.

RubeRad

Thanks all!
That looks about the same as Park's BBT-32 (which is cheaper than BBT-22, and the Shimano tool cheaper than both). I'm not sure what you're describing with the spacers and washers. Are you talking like Bill Kapaun is saying about holding the tool in with a bolt?


I don't have a grinder. I have a few files, but in this case I'm willing to spend a few bucks on a higher quality tool.

I don't have a long bolt with that threading, but you're right I could probably wander down to Lowe's and pick one up. I'm also not sure though that my only/little adjustable wrench opens that big. I had been using the insert to convert from the square hole in the tool to 8mm

Yes probably I didn't brainer. I couldn't crack the drive side free with all my weight on my hands, so I tried stepping on it. Probably without hands the tool was not in securely.

RubeRad

And while I'm asking stupid questions....

The drive side BB is the one that's reverse threaded, right? That's how I mushed it, trying to rightie-loosie on the drive side with my foot. (If I was going the wrong direction that would explain why it wouldn't come out)

Crankycrank

Yes, Clockwise to loosen. I don't mind answering the question at all but if you need an instant answer to this question, it can easily be found all over the internet.

Bike Gremlin

Yes - that photo explains it better than I could.

That's an M8 x 1 mm thread (the "fine M8 thread") - some hardware stores (in my city at least) have that.
I bought a long one just for that purpose.

My bicycle bolt size & pitch list

Relja

Steel Charlie

I got one of these. Looks twinky but I used it with a Shimano tool on a BB that I had to hammer loose. Obviously it will work on anything





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Garthr

Oh, in that case if you get the Pedro's tool it takes a 3/8" drive. Get yourself like a 18-24" 3/8" drive breaker bar from Harbor Freight or wherever and you'll find it's easier because you don't need to apply so much body english to get it properly snug. You can choke up on longer breakers if necessary too. Long levers are very useful ! Much better than open ended wrenches as the 3/8' drive is a solid engagement, it's attached. I've never needed to bolt my tool down as I hold it straight with one hand and gently apply leverage with the other. Bolting it down wouldn't hurt though, as long as there's room inside the socket for both. IDK, I never tried it !

RubeRad

I have a 1/2" drive breaker bar that I found on the road, and I'm pretty sure I have a 1/2-3/4 adapter as well

RubeRad

I know, and many of the places on the internet where that information is, are BF/Mech threads involving myself. But it's been a few years since I even took a BB out, so just wanted a sanity check

cyccommute 

Then Pedro’s is very good. I’ve been using one for more than 20 years. I also have a version of bottom bracket holder that is a more expensive version of the bolt method that was suggested above. I also have the socket handle from Pedro’s which makes use of the tool much easier than using a large adjustable wrench. Pedro’s makes are several tools that fit the handle like a cassette lockring tool and an external bottom bracket tool. They are all easier to use with the Pedro’s handle.

cyccommute 

The way I tell my students to remember how to remove the bottom bracket is to put the handle of the tool in the 9 o’clock position and push down on both sides of the bottom bracket. It seems easier for them to grasp than lefty tighty.

Bill Kapaun

The 8x1mm is LESS COMMON than the more common 8mmx1.25 found in the US. (can't speak for the rest of the world)
I went to an Auto Parts Store and picked up a couple different lengths to go with an EXISTING crank bolt + a pack of generic 3/8" flat washers.
It's a really MINIMAL investment!
I also have the TL-UN74-S, so I can handle any spindle length I'd ever expect to see.

Edit: Mine is actually a TL-UN72.
I now (faintly) remember a conversation a few years ago with either Andrew Stewart or John Thompson re: the difference between the two, and I think one had a slightly bigger "hole".

Bike Gremlin

Yup - the 8x1.25 mm is the common ("normal") 8 mm bolt size here too.
For the 8x1 mm you must ask/look for a "fine thread 8 mm" bolt.
But it's not too exotic and most decent hardware and bolt & nut stores have it.

The Shimano tool has a nice big hole and a relatively big 32 mm interface so it has handled anything I've thrown at it over the years.
It's a good tool that I really like.

Relja

Garthr

Excellent, the best kind of roadside finds !

RubeRad

Am I doing my math wrong? For the drive side, the handle would have to be at 3:00 to push down and remove righty-loosie, no? And 9:00 push down for leftie-tighty

RubeRad

thx Pedro's is ordered

cyccommute 

D’oh! I don’t depend on clock faces for just this reason. What I really tell them is to put the wrench on each side towards the front of the bike and to push down. Works for both sides.




I’ve tried explaining the right and left hand screw rule, “left is right and right is wrong”, clock faces, etc and the above method seems easiest to grasp.

Pedals are equally difficult to explain how to remove, especially in light of the fact that it’s the opposite of the bottom bracket…i.e. “right is right and left is wrong”. Again, I find it easier to face the pedal toward the front of the bike and to push down on the pedal wrench that is pointing towards you. No clocks, no “righty/tighty except when it is lefty/tighty”. It’s easy to grasp.