Starting to look for large used carbon
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Starting to look for large used carbon
My wife is going to slaughter me if I buy a new bike. I've got a nice steel road/commuter I'm very happy with but would like to start "piecing" together a large 63/64cm carbon road bike just for giggles and to do some club rides. I figure if I pick used parts here and there I can get away with having another bike. I never thought I'd want a bike to go fast on... but oh well...
Can anyone recommend a good frame to start with? I'm totally new to carbon.
How's this for starters? TREK MADONE 5.2 frame on Ebay $550 - is this an ok deal? Any other links/advice appreciated!
Can anyone recommend a good frame to start with? I'm totally new to carbon.
How's this for starters? TREK MADONE 5.2 frame on Ebay $550 - is this an ok deal? Any other links/advice appreciated!
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My wife is going to slaughter me if I buy a new bike. I've got a nice steel road/commuter I'm very happy with but would like to start "piecing" together a large 63/64cm carbon road bike just for giggles and to do some club rides. I figure if I pick used parts here and there I can get away with having another bike. I never thought I'd want a bike to go fast on... but oh well...
Can anyone recommend a good frame to start with? I'm totally new to carbon.
How's this for starters? TREK MADONE 5.2 frame on Ebay $550 - is this an ok deal? Any other links/advice appreciated!
Can anyone recommend a good frame to start with? I'm totally new to carbon.
How's this for starters? TREK MADONE 5.2 frame on Ebay $550 - is this an ok deal? Any other links/advice appreciated!
A compromised frame, fork, steerer tube, etc. puts you at serious risk. As is deathly serious. You should have any used carbon frame you plan on buying examined by a competent bike mechanic.
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whoa didn't know used carbon was such a potential hassle - maybe i'll look into an older aluminum race bike - would be cheaper too
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The bike you mentioned in the original post was repaired; was the damage just cosmetic, what was the exact repair and by whom? This could be a very good frame, or not.
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I bought my last two frames used on ebay and have had zero point zero issues. Carbon is significantly hardier than people seem to think and frankly, if you're so terrified of carbon make sure you get a full steel fork for your steel bike too because the FORK is the failure that would terrify me the most and almost 100% of all decent road bikes sold today have carbon forks.
A lot of FUD.
A lot of FUD.
#9
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I bought my last two frames used on ebay and have had zero point zero issues. Carbon is significantly hardier than people seem to think and frankly, if you're so terrified of carbon make sure you get a full steel fork for your steel bike too because the FORK is the failure that would terrify me the most and almost 100% of all decent road bikes sold today have carbon forks.
A lot of FUD.
A lot of FUD.
Don't worry about it at all.
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Why do you want carbon?
The vast majority of expected differences (especially as communicated on an Internet forum) are based on some limited experiences. Carbon is the new thing. But steel, Titanium, Aluminum and Carbon can be made to be lighter or heavier, stiffer or more flexible, plush, etc.
Carbon has the great advantage of being light, which marketing folks have sold as faster. It means nothing at a clyde size. It can also be manipulated into all sorts of shapes and bike behavior. It's not necessarily better. It's not even necessarily lighter.
I would worry -- and carefully check myself and/or with a mechanic -- ANY used bike. Carbon can fail spectacularly and not give much indication beforehand. Steel can fail, and aluminum and Titatinum. Carbon requires people with a little knowledge on working it. For example, if you over tighten a stem bolt on a steel fork steerer, not much is going to happen, though you might break the bolt. Do the same on a carbon steerer and you can crack the steerer and not necessarily know it, which compromises structural integrity. Does it happen a lot? Not anymore. Does it happen? sure.
The other thing I'd say is make sure any carbon dropouts are checked carefully. I've seen them gouged, and I've seen that create issues with wheel slippage.
The vast majority of expected differences (especially as communicated on an Internet forum) are based on some limited experiences. Carbon is the new thing. But steel, Titanium, Aluminum and Carbon can be made to be lighter or heavier, stiffer or more flexible, plush, etc.
Carbon has the great advantage of being light, which marketing folks have sold as faster. It means nothing at a clyde size. It can also be manipulated into all sorts of shapes and bike behavior. It's not necessarily better. It's not even necessarily lighter.
I would worry -- and carefully check myself and/or with a mechanic -- ANY used bike. Carbon can fail spectacularly and not give much indication beforehand. Steel can fail, and aluminum and Titatinum. Carbon requires people with a little knowledge on working it. For example, if you over tighten a stem bolt on a steel fork steerer, not much is going to happen, though you might break the bolt. Do the same on a carbon steerer and you can crack the steerer and not necessarily know it, which compromises structural integrity. Does it happen a lot? Not anymore. Does it happen? sure.
The other thing I'd say is make sure any carbon dropouts are checked carefully. I've seen them gouged, and I've seen that create issues with wheel slippage.