Vintage Touring Bikes
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Vintage Touring Bikes
hello! I知 trying to find a bike for me to commute and ride around NYC with. I was told the best home would be a touring bike. So with that in mind I知 looking for a nice vintage touring bike (I like the steel frames and colors) any recommendation? I don稚 know much about bikes as I知 just getting started so as much information will help! Thank you.
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Check out the thread below along with the links to other threads. Good info there. Do not overlook old mountain bikes either, they make just as good commuters as touring bikes and are usually less expensive. There was a lot of material and money in late 80s and early 90s MTBs. There's some gems out there if you look. A couple underestimated bikes (IMO) from that era are the Mongoose Dynametric (full braze-ons!) and Fuji Sundance. They won't be expensive bikes but are just as capable as a Schwinn High Plains or Specialized Stumpjumper.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ring-bike.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ring-bike.html
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+1 to the old rigid MTB over old Touring bikes, especially WRT cost. People with old touring bikes seem to know what they have and want top dollar for it.
C&V might be a better place to ask, but the trick buying vintage is knowing what qualities you want, not which specific model. Unless it was an uber popular model, it may be years before that Univega Specialissma or the Nishiki GT in a 55 pops up in your area, when a Trek 520 or Miyata 610 is there and the same effective thing.
C&V might be a better place to ask, but the trick buying vintage is knowing what qualities you want, not which specific model. Unless it was an uber popular model, it may be years before that Univega Specialissma or the Nishiki GT in a 55 pops up in your area, when a Trek 520 or Miyata 610 is there and the same effective thing.
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Vintage touring bikes are quite rare, bicycle touring was not very popular more than a decade and a half ago with very few off the shelf touring models being offered. Back then and earlier, most bike touring was done on bikes that were not initially envisioned to be used for loaded touring. I started looking for an off the shelf touring bike in bike shops in 2004 and I only saw a couple touring models made by Fuji or Trek. But now there are over a dozen off the shelf touring bikes offered. Thus, you are looking for something quite rare. For general use, as noted above, consider an older mountain bike if you want to sit more upright or an older mid-range road bike if you want a faster ride that has a more aggressive posture.
If you get an older road bike, I suggest you avoid the ones that are so old that they use 27 inch tires. You would have better luck finding tires if you went with 700c.
I use an old mountain bike (early 90s Bridgestone MB-6) as my errand bike for around town errands, grocery store runs, etc. Yet I have three touring bikes. My point is you might be happier with an old mountain bike for the type of riding you are talking about.
If you get an older road bike, I suggest you avoid the ones that are so old that they use 27 inch tires. You would have better luck finding tires if you went with 700c.
I use an old mountain bike (early 90s Bridgestone MB-6) as my errand bike for around town errands, grocery store runs, etc. Yet I have three touring bikes. My point is you might be happier with an old mountain bike for the type of riding you are talking about.
#5
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hello! I’m trying to find a bike for me to commute and ride around NYC with. I was told the best home would be a touring bike. So with that in mind I’m looking for a nice vintage touring bike (I like the steel frames and colors) any recommendation? I don’t know much about bikes as I’m just getting started so as much information will help! Thank you.
Also get helmet with visor, an OSHA-rated hi-vis long sleeve shirt or vest (long sleeves do add to vis), and don't pinch pennies on head and tail lamps (make sure they're easily removable).
Last edited by seeker333; 07-03-18 at 11:38 AM.
#6
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look for an old steel hybrid with rigid fork. go stealth. scratch the logos off'n the components. maybe use non-matching brake levers. apply rattlecan krylon matte black with some primer highlights for the frame. spray heavy to get some drippy beads!
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Vintage touring bikes are quite rare, bicycle touring was not very popular more than a decade and a half ago with very few off the shelf touring models being offered. Back then and earlier, most bike touring was done on bikes that were not initially envisioned to be used for loaded touring. I started looking for an off the shelf touring bike in bike shops in 2004 and I only saw a couple touring models made by Fuji or Trek. But now there are over a dozen off the shelf touring bikes offered. Thus, you are looking for something quite rare. For general use, as noted above, consider an older mountain bike if you want to sit more upright or an older mid-range road bike if you want a faster ride that has a more aggressive posture.
If you get an older road bike, I suggest you avoid the ones that are so old that they use 27 inch tires. You would have better luck finding tires if you went with 700c.
I use an old mountain bike (early 90s Bridgestone MB-6) as my errand bike for around town errands, grocery store runs, etc. Yet I have three touring bikes. My point is you might be happier with an old mountain bike for the type of riding you are talking about.
If you get an older road bike, I suggest you avoid the ones that are so old that they use 27 inch tires. You would have better luck finding tires if you went with 700c.
I use an old mountain bike (early 90s Bridgestone MB-6) as my errand bike for around town errands, grocery store runs, etc. Yet I have three touring bikes. My point is you might be happier with an old mountain bike for the type of riding you are talking about.
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#9
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Different wheels and different brakes would be needed. But there are so many good older 700c bikes out there, there is not much of a reason to want to go with a really old 27 inch bike. But if you found a great 27 inch bike, get it and keep a couple spare tires in storage for when you will need them later.
When I suggested a mid range road bike, some road bikes do not have a lot of clearance for wider tires or fenders. I suspect you would be interested in fenders for commuting, especially if you have to ride in the rain on the way to work or through puddles after a rain storm. And I have no clue what the surfaces you would be riding on are like, but you probably would want tires that are at least 32mm wide.
When I suggested a mid range road bike, some road bikes do not have a lot of clearance for wider tires or fenders. I suspect you would be interested in fenders for commuting, especially if you have to ride in the rain on the way to work or through puddles after a rain storm. And I have no clue what the surfaces you would be riding on are like, but you probably would want tires that are at least 32mm wide.
#10
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Like others wrote, the tires are incompatible. A 27" wheel has a 630mm bead seat diameter (BSD), whereas 700c wheel has a 622mm BSD. BSD refers to the interface between the hooked bead at the edge of bicycle tire and corresponding rim, which engages with the rim to keep the tire in place as it is inflated to recommended pressure. You can still find 27" tires if you look around, so there's little reason to try to fit a too-small 700c tire onto a 27" rim.
The other issue are the rims and brakes. The 8mm BSD difference means a 4mm radius difference - a 700c wheel fit onto a bike intended for 27" wheel will have a 4mm misalignment between the brake pad and rim braking surface. Some brake calipers will permit a small adjustment, but many won't.
A third issue encountered in trying to convert an old 27" wheeled bike to 700c is the OLD - over locknut dimension. The OLD has increased over time to accommodate the increasing number of cogs on the cassette. In my life they've gone from 5 cog ("10 speed bikes") to the 12 cog. Frame manufacturers must increase the spacing of the rear dropouts to fit the wider hubs (needed to fit more cogs). Rear spacing/OLD on old 27" bikes may be 120mm, whereas newer road-type bikes are 126mm, 130mm, or even 135mm. It is possible to fit a 130mm OLD hub into a steel frame with a 126mm rear spacing, by simply spreading frame to force hub/wheel into position. Anything more than this 4mm spread risks damaging the frame, by breaking a weld joint, typically at the brake bridge between seatstays.
In conclusion, there's several issues with trying to modernize an old 27" bike, chief among them is cost. It quickly becomes too expensive to retrofit wheels and drivetrain to an old frame, and smarter to just pay a bit more for a more modern bike with fewer parts compatibility issues. Theses issues also apply to MTBs but to lesser extent. Also, I reiterate that an old MTB with more upright posture (for comfort and better traffic awareness), fatter tire capability for bad roads and less attraction to thieves is your best bet for NYC-type usage.
The other issue are the rims and brakes. The 8mm BSD difference means a 4mm radius difference - a 700c wheel fit onto a bike intended for 27" wheel will have a 4mm misalignment between the brake pad and rim braking surface. Some brake calipers will permit a small adjustment, but many won't.
A third issue encountered in trying to convert an old 27" wheeled bike to 700c is the OLD - over locknut dimension. The OLD has increased over time to accommodate the increasing number of cogs on the cassette. In my life they've gone from 5 cog ("10 speed bikes") to the 12 cog. Frame manufacturers must increase the spacing of the rear dropouts to fit the wider hubs (needed to fit more cogs). Rear spacing/OLD on old 27" bikes may be 120mm, whereas newer road-type bikes are 126mm, 130mm, or even 135mm. It is possible to fit a 130mm OLD hub into a steel frame with a 126mm rear spacing, by simply spreading frame to force hub/wheel into position. Anything more than this 4mm spread risks damaging the frame, by breaking a weld joint, typically at the brake bridge between seatstays.
In conclusion, there's several issues with trying to modernize an old 27" bike, chief among them is cost. It quickly becomes too expensive to retrofit wheels and drivetrain to an old frame, and smarter to just pay a bit more for a more modern bike with fewer parts compatibility issues. Theses issues also apply to MTBs but to lesser extent. Also, I reiterate that an old MTB with more upright posture (for comfort and better traffic awareness), fatter tire capability for bad roads and less attraction to thieves is your best bet for NYC-type usage.
#11
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Vintage touring bikes are quite rare, bicycle touring was not very popular more than a decade and a half ago with very few off the shelf touring models being offered. Back then and earlier, most bike touring was done on bikes that were not initially envisioned to be used for loaded touring. I started looking for an off the shelf touring bike in bike shops in 2004 and I only saw a couple touring models made by Fuji or Trek. But now there are over a dozen off the shelf touring bikes offered. Thus, you are looking for something quite rare. For general use, as noted above, consider an older mountain bike if you want to sit more upright or an older mid-range road bike if you want a faster ride that has a more aggressive posture.
If you get an older road bike, I suggest you avoid the ones that are so old that they use 27 inch tires. You would have better luck finding tires if you went with 700c.
I use an old mountain bike (early 90s Bridgestone MB-6) as my errand bike for around town errands, grocery store runs, etc. Yet I have three touring bikes. My point is you might be happier with an old mountain bike for the type of riding you are talking about.
If you get an older road bike, I suggest you avoid the ones that are so old that they use 27 inch tires. You would have better luck finding tires if you went with 700c.
I use an old mountain bike (early 90s Bridgestone MB-6) as my errand bike for around town errands, grocery store runs, etc. Yet I have three touring bikes. My point is you might be happier with an old mountain bike for the type of riding you are talking about.
#12
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...
A third issue encountered in trying to convert an old 27" wheeled bike to 700c is the OLD - over locknut dimension. The OLD has increased over time to accommodate the increasing number of cogs on the cassette. In my life they've gone from 5 cog ("10 speed bikes") to the 12 cog. Frame manufacturers must increase the spacing of the rear dropouts to fit the wider hubs (needed to fit more cogs). Rear spacing/OLD on old 27" bikes may be 120mm, whereas newer road-type bikes are 126mm, 130mm, or even 135mm. It is possible to fit a 130mm OLD hub into a steel frame with a 126mm rear spacing, by simply spreading frame to force hub/wheel into position. Anything more than this 4mm spread risks damaging the frame, by breaking a weld joint, typically at the brake bridge between seatstays.
....
A third issue encountered in trying to convert an old 27" wheeled bike to 700c is the OLD - over locknut dimension. The OLD has increased over time to accommodate the increasing number of cogs on the cassette. In my life they've gone from 5 cog ("10 speed bikes") to the 12 cog. Frame manufacturers must increase the spacing of the rear dropouts to fit the wider hubs (needed to fit more cogs). Rear spacing/OLD on old 27" bikes may be 120mm, whereas newer road-type bikes are 126mm, 130mm, or even 135mm. It is possible to fit a 130mm OLD hub into a steel frame with a 126mm rear spacing, by simply spreading frame to force hub/wheel into position. Anything more than this 4mm spread risks damaging the frame, by breaking a weld joint, typically at the brake bridge between seatstays.
....
And my couple year old Velo Orange Pass Hunter frame is 130mm, but Velo Orange on the phone told me there would be no problem if I wanted to run a 135mm hub, other than it takes a bit of effort to spread the stays to drop the wheel in each time.
Everything else, I fully agree.
#13
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Yes you certainly can. I built a dishless wheel with an asymmetrically-drilled rim (Velocity Synergy) on a Deore XT hub, which I respaced with a longer axle and a few millimeters of extra locknut/washer, final OLD was 142mm - installed in a LHT. Then I realigned the RD due to the splayed derailleur hanger resulting from shoving a 142 wide object into a 135mm space. I was concerned that the brake bridge would pop off, but I never put more than ~4K miles on that combo, so nothing bad happened.
It's OK if I screw up my stuff, but I'm reluctant to advise others to do the same over the internet. I don't want to tell someone with a 198X Trek to spread the dropouts, then hear back that the frame is ruined (and somehow that's my fault). Although unlikely, it is possible to break one of the lugged joints from such modification/usage. In this situation I usually advise one should use the proper parts for their bike or just get a newer bike/frameset/etc.
#14
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It's OK if I screw up my stuff, but I'm reluctant to advise others to do the same over the internet. I don't want to tell someone with a 198X Trek to spread the dropouts, then hear back that the frame is ruined (and somehow that's my fault). Although unlikely, it is possible to break one of the lugged joints from such modification/usage. In this situation I usually advise one should use the proper parts for their bike or just get a newer bike/frameset/etc.
It's OK if I screw up my stuff, but I'm reluctant to advise others to do the same over the internet. I don't want to tell someone with a 198X Trek to spread the dropouts, then hear back that the frame is ruined (and somehow that's my fault). Although unlikely, it is possible to break one of the lugged joints from such modification/usage. In this situation I usually advise one should use the proper parts for their bike or just get a newer bike/frameset/etc.
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Just a quick look on craigslist and I see this poster has quite a few post up. https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/b...628782722.html
Might be worth a check if just to see what's out there. A volume seller may be able to work with on your needs.
Might be worth a check if just to see what's out there. A volume seller may be able to work with on your needs.
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Like others wrote, the tires are incompatible. A 27" wheel has a 630mm bead seat diameter (BSD), whereas 700c wheel has a 622mm BSD. BSD refers to the interface between the hooked bead at the edge of bicycle tire and corresponding rim, which engages with the rim to keep the tire in place as it is inflated to recommended pressure. You can still find 27" tires if you look around, so there's little reason to try to fit a too-small 700c tire onto a 27" rim.
The other issue are the rims and brakes. The 8mm BSD difference means a 4mm radius difference - a 700c wheel fit onto a bike intended for 27" wheel will have a 4mm misalignment between the brake pad and rim braking surface. Some brake calipers will permit a small adjustment, but many won't.
A third issue encountered in trying to convert an old 27" wheeled bike to 700c is the OLD - over locknut dimension. The OLD has increased over time to accommodate the increasing number of cogs on the cassette. In my life they've gone from 5 cog ("10 speed bikes") to the 12 cog. Frame manufacturers must increase the spacing of the rear dropouts to fit the wider hubs (needed to fit more cogs). Rear spacing/OLD on old 27" bikes may be 120mm, whereas newer road-type bikes are 126mm, 130mm, or even 135mm. It is possible to fit a 130mm OLD hub into a steel frame with a 126mm rear spacing, by simply spreading frame to force hub/wheel into position. Anything more than this 4mm spread risks damaging the frame, by breaking a weld joint, typically at the brake bridge between seatstays.
In conclusion, there's several issues with trying to modernize an old 27" bike, chief among them is cost. It quickly becomes too expensive to retrofit wheels and drivetrain to an old frame, and smarter to just pay a bit more for a more modern bike with fewer parts compatibility issues. Theses issues also apply to MTBs but to lesser extent. Also, I reiterate that an old MTB with more upright posture (for comfort and better traffic awareness), fatter tire capability for bad roads and less attraction to thieves is your best bet for NYC-type usage.
The other issue are the rims and brakes. The 8mm BSD difference means a 4mm radius difference - a 700c wheel fit onto a bike intended for 27" wheel will have a 4mm misalignment between the brake pad and rim braking surface. Some brake calipers will permit a small adjustment, but many won't.
A third issue encountered in trying to convert an old 27" wheeled bike to 700c is the OLD - over locknut dimension. The OLD has increased over time to accommodate the increasing number of cogs on the cassette. In my life they've gone from 5 cog ("10 speed bikes") to the 12 cog. Frame manufacturers must increase the spacing of the rear dropouts to fit the wider hubs (needed to fit more cogs). Rear spacing/OLD on old 27" bikes may be 120mm, whereas newer road-type bikes are 126mm, 130mm, or even 135mm. It is possible to fit a 130mm OLD hub into a steel frame with a 126mm rear spacing, by simply spreading frame to force hub/wheel into position. Anything more than this 4mm spread risks damaging the frame, by breaking a weld joint, typically at the brake bridge between seatstays.
In conclusion, there's several issues with trying to modernize an old 27" bike, chief among them is cost. It quickly becomes too expensive to retrofit wheels and drivetrain to an old frame, and smarter to just pay a bit more for a more modern bike with fewer parts compatibility issues. Theses issues also apply to MTBs but to lesser extent. Also, I reiterate that an old MTB with more upright posture (for comfort and better traffic awareness), fatter tire capability for bad roads and less attraction to thieves is your best bet for NYC-type usage.
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I've got 27" bikes, the tire situation is nowhere near as dire as most would make it. With the internet, you have any number of choices in 27", and really how many choices do you really need? In an emergency, hardware stores and Wal-Mart still carry cheap 27" folders.
#18
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how 'bout one of these for $175?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vilano-Edge...e/162533631791
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6KU-Aluminu...e/113126076134
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I agree. A used rigid fork steel hybrid works very well as a do-everything commuter bike. I picked up an early 1990s Trek 750 that is now my favorite bike for everyday stuff. Even older hybrids in general are new enough that components are still compatible and easy to find. The bike can be easily modified to skew more towards either road bike or mountain bike styles. Plus they're tough and usually pretty cheap. My Trek 750 was $175 from a bike store that had already tuned it up and installed new tires (which of course I soon replaced).
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Really, Jason, any bike will get you from point a to point b. If how it looks is important, then just make sure it's the right size. People that commute regular know durability is important, especially when on a time schedule. Probably why touring and mountain bikes are preferred. Good luck.
#21
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Just a quick look on craigslist and I see this poster has quite a few post up. https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/b...628782722.html. Might be worth a check if just to see what's out there. A volume seller may be able to work with on your needs.
Last edited by seeker333; 07-05-18 at 01:17 PM.
#22
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80s touring bikes, and MTBs, are great for upgrading.
I built up an '86 Schwinn High Sierra for my son that's a super bike. I updated the drivetrain to Deore and the wheels to a newer set. Kept the roller cam brakes that were cool and have great stopping power. He's heading to college in the fall, so I'm building a gravel bike for him from a powder coated 1985 Miyata 610 frame. HED Ardennes + wheelset (130mm rear dropout spacing that will pop easily into the 126mm rear triangle), original brakes that have enough of a slot to allow for the smaller 700c wheels. Bought 9 speed barend shifters and a Deore rear derailleur, keeping the front derailleur. It's a great frame as are many others. You can find a decent 700c (or 29er) wheelset online for $150. Upgrading these is easier than some posts above imply.
#24
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and he wants a touring bike , and us to find it for him , I guess..
seems to happen a lot..
seems to happen a lot..
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Thank you all for the input! I never realized how in depth finding a good bike could be. I'm taking into account what everyone said, and i'll let you know what i get!