WGB 

I was given two early 70's Raleigh Sports





They have seriously rusted rims and I can't see trying to save the rims but wanted to see if the internal hubs are worth saving and rebuilding. I've never taken apart one of these but there are a lot of how to videos available. Problem is all the videos start with the hubs already free from their rims.

I'm pretty sure that it's okay to simply cut out a Sturmey Archer hub (unlike a hub with a cassette or freewheel attached) but wanted to check first.

Do I need to leave the hubs attached to the rims to start the dismantle process?

Dan Burkhart 

You definitely want to unscrew the ball ring before you cut the spokes. After that, no issues.
It can be done with a bare hub. I have done it numerous times, but it is way easier when it is still in the wheel.

WGB 

Thanks Dan.

I'm letting the bikes sit with a little dab of PB Blaster on every bolt anyway. They will be my entertainment next week.

dsbrantjr

That'll buff right out!

Gresp15C

A master might be able to get a bare hub apart, but I was unable to. I ended up temporarily building it onto a rim so I could get it apart. I clamped a portion of the rim down to my workbench with a board and C clamp, which gave me good purchase for loosening the ring.

Agreed about giving it some penetrating oil and letting it sit for a while before starting the project. Meanwhile, you can undertake the project of finding 40 spoke rims. In my experience, the hub can look horrible on the outside and be practically like new on the inside.

thumpism 

Your bikes might be old enough to have 40 spoke rear wheels. My Sportses are slightly newer and have 36. If you cut the hubs out it might be difficult to find more 40 hole rims. If you have a bench vise it helps when disassembling the hub; holds it steady while you use a hammer and punch to loosen the ball ring.

If you're hung up on the looks of the rims, try cleaning them up first before you decide to cut them loose. That rust might not be too serious.

dedhed

The Sun CR-18 is a frequently used upgrade rim in 40 hole for this application if you're planning on the original 26 X 1 3/8 size.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=62891

I'd also second the try cleaning up first. You'd be surprised how well some old chrome cleans up. In fact pitting on the brake surfaces might actually be an upgrade in braking performance

dedhed

Also be aware a number of fasteners on those bikes will be Whitworth, not SAE or Metric. Adjustable wrench or "close enough" 6 pt socket normally works.

noglider 

No joke. My 1962 Rudge has lost some chrome from its rims, and it's true that it has improved braking a lot. I don't plan to replace the rims.

The CR-18 rim is an excellent rim, but do try to make the steel rims work first. You might succeed.

WGB 

I'm in no rush. No Co-op means no cotter press. Able to loosen all the lock nuts on the pins on the cotters but three of the four wouldn't move with a very light tap of the hammer. I don't want to have to cut them out so trying the PB route again. As soon as the rain stops and it warms up I shall be in the backyard puttering away on them with a can of ale. Rims look seriously bad but won't cost much to try and save them.

dedhed

C-Clamp or vise and a socket for a press.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...r-tools-2.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ter-press.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ter-press.html

WGB 

Too cheap to buy the Bikesmith one and caught again

Someone on here was going to make me one of the hand-made ones like Randy Jawa posted. I can't, no access to a shop. Have to search my emails or give in and buy a tool

desconhecido 

I've never had any luck removing cotters from old Raleighs without a cotter press. Even with a Bikesmith cotter press, I've fubared some. One thing to consider, whatever your method of choice, is heat. My best success has been to tighten the cotter press somewhat, heat that puppy up, and then apply a little more force with the press. Repeat until the cotter comes free or it gets bent over, in which case you can try a punch on the stub (while supporting the crank end) or a drill.

When you get one of the cotters out and look at it, I think you'll see why those suckers resist so much. It's not a matter of corrosion, it's that the cotter is pressed in so hard that it gets deformed by being pressed in between the hard spindle and the hard crank. The cotters are pretty soft in comparison.

If you do end up drilling, be carefull with the chainring so close to the rotating drill -- that always frightens me a tad, being the victim of many stupid accidents over the years. If you do drill, don't worry too much about damaging the spindle or crank as the cotter is much softer and the bit will follow it.

Moe Zhoost

My home shop method for cotters is the vise and socket method. The local co-op has the Bikesmith press, but I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet. Both methods require you to tighten the vise/press up, then wait. I've been told that the reason for this is that the pressure on the pin causes it to heat up and expand. Waiting allows the pin to cool down at which point you can tighten some more. I don't know if this has been documented, but it makes sense to me.

Re: the rust on the rims and hubs -> I've had some worse than those that cleaned up nicely with an oxalic acid dip followed by some chrome polish. If you are not OCD about keeping them original, CR-18 rims are the way to go.

WGB 

Got the wheels off of the ladies frame and working on the rear wheel.

Serious rust issues (used about 1/4 jug of Barkeepers Friend on about 5 spokes worth of the front rim and even with rust gone, rim still heavily pitted). Some spoke loose, one snapped and the nipples are rusted tight



Still, must not quit. I watched videos on how to dismantle the rear hub. Most of these videos start with the presumption you have the gear wheel removed. I didn't have mine out, but finally got past that and onto the step where you are removing the lock-ring (right hand locking washer?). It was suggested that I find the hole opposite where the clips are and insert a thin slot screwdriver blade in that hole opposite the clips.

Here is my issue. The two remain holes are roughly equidistant from the clips and no slot screwdriver will fit in either one. I don't want to wreck anything.

Any suggestions as to which hole? Does it even matter? What tool should work if a slot screwdriver doesn't fit?

If it helps it's marked 74 12 so assuming Made December 1974

WGB 

Bump - still need advice for removing.

Kovkov

Doesen‘t matter which hole.You can’t wreck anything. Might be that you‘ll need to be patient. That ring sometimes likes to jump back into position.

Moe Zhoost

I'd insert your screwdriver into the cut-out at 10 o'clock in your picture. That clip end should easily pry up and over. Once it is up you will find it very easy to work around the retaining ring to completely remove it. You really cannot screw anything up here so go for it.

Dan Burkhart 

Using a high quality screwdriver makes a difference. I have a small Klein flat blade that makes the job a cinch, and a cheapo one the same size that makes it a struggle.
Also, don't be afraid to push hard to work the tip in there. Just be careful you don't slip and stab yourself.

davidad

If you have a library close they may have an old Number 6 edition of Sutherland's manual for bikes. There is a section on taking apart the 3 speed hub.

stevel610 

A Project Farm video on rust removers.

bertinjim 

Wes -

I have a Sutherland's 4th Edition with complete SA AW disassembly instructions including exploded diagrams, parts list and trouble shooting guide. You are welcome to borrow it. A free,complimentary wipe down with alcohol is included! PM me if you need it.

Jim

WGB 

Thank to all for help. Guess I just need a finer or smaller blade on the driver. I have a neighbor with a vise and will prevail on him to let me have access to prevent stabbing self with a dirty screwdriver blade (if anyone will do that it would be me).

As for the rust, I'll start cheap then and I'll make a bathtub out of a tarp and soak the rims for a few days in vinegar. I'm partial to Evaporust but it's expensive in Canada and can't go to NY for the foreseeable future. I was looking for a cheap kiddie pool and was going to try the electric rust removal method but understand that can kill chrome, same with oxalic acid??

As for libraries, no books because libraries are all closed here by government.

bertinjim I'll wait and see if the online photos are all I need to dismantle. So far I'm good except for that locking ring. I am photographing all parts in removal order so hopefully I can rebuilt with little difficulty. If I need the book we might be able to meet. Hopefully this quarantine works as planned and we can go back to our old lives and we'll grab lunch.

As for the alcohol to kill germs. I prefer the Iranian method where you drink it. I just want to use rum or bourbon instead of wood alcohol

Kovkov

Somewhere on the internet there is an english pdf-version of this.

JohnDThompson 

Yes, at Sturmey-Archer Heritage