Using stripped cranks?
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Using stripped cranks?
I have drilled Stronglight cranks that have a fairly stripped bolt area. The threads are semi present, but they definitely dont look good and I plan to order the proper remover so I can ascertain if they are completely ruined or moderately functional. I think I have decided to use them anyway on an upcoming build (Peugeot PKN 10) because they are otherwise in perfect shape. My logic is, I may as well use them and just count on having to destroy them at a point in the future vs not using them at all and just recycling them. I dont mind having to resort to worst case scenario removal if I can get some more life out of them. Has anyone else here knowingly used a part that was damaged and resigned themselves to dealing with a potential hassle down the road?
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Yup, and it was a BB on a 20 year old kid's bike. Since it will get handed down to another kid I might end up having to deal with it but I suspect it'll be someone else's problem in 20 years. The bike is only for them to ride to school and loan to friends for joining us on rides and its not like those threads do anything to hold the crank on.
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Can I rethread a crankarm?
https://www.bikeforums.net/13293342-post15.htmlhttps://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...ractor-system/
...it took me years to find someone selling of these, and I can't remember who it was. I have had trouble ordering the replacement adapters that refit your crank to standard. But as long as I have the oversized puller, I can just use it to pull those crank arms that have been rethreaded oversized. It is expensive, and you need more than one Stronglight stripped crank to justify purchase. It's a great tool, but it's too bad they are so difficult to come by.
Anyway, there are some other solutions in the linked old thread above.
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Used with some caution, Jacobs chuck wedges are a non-destructive, non-damaging way to remove a square taper crank. The wedges are relatively inexpensive and available from any industrial supply house or even on Amazon. I believe the #6 taper is the recommended size.
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Can I rethread a crankarm?
https://www.bikeforums.net/13293342-post15.htmlhttps://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...ractor-system/
...it took me years to find someone selling of these, and I can't remember who it was. I have had trouble ordering the replacement adapters that refit your crank to standard. But as long as I have the oversized puller, I can just use it to pull those crank arms that have been rethreaded oversized. It is expensive, and you need more than one Stronglight stripped crank to justify purchase. It's a great tool, but it's too bad they are so difficult to come by.
Anyway, there are some other solutions in the linked old thread above.
I have one and it works great.
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Thanks for all the advice. The wedges look like a good way to take care of this particular situation. I may pick them up instead of the Stronglight puller due to the cost difference, anyway. Good call on those! I have heard of gear pullers and riding with the crank bolt removed which is why i just assumed there would be destruction/major hassle involved. I am getting pretty pumped about this build! I have Swiss bb and I wasnt sure if it was the right spindle width but I did a test fit and it looks like its going to work; they sit a little inboard but no rubbing or anything so i am just going with it. Thanks again for the replies!
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re-use crank with stripped thread?
I have a similar problem on a GT Palomar youth mountain bike I'm trying to refurbish (12.5" frame, 24-inch wheel, c. 2000) on the cheap. Bottom bracket is not spinning freely at all - Shimano tapered square cartridge needs replacing, I have concluded. I extracted non-drive side crank but stripped threads on DS crank have me stuck now.
Please advise on the best cost-effective options as far as extracting stuck crank, reinstalling or replacing crank with replacement BB:
Please advise on the best cost-effective options as far as extracting stuck crank, reinstalling or replacing crank with replacement BB:
- Do I have to remove the crank before I can get the bracket cartridge out? Is it possible or advisable to take the cartridge out entirely and then try to get the crank off? Is it easiest to get it off using those wedges against the frame's BB hub ... or once the cartridge is off somehow?
- How would I re-install the DS crank with stripped threads?
- What is the best way to get drivetrain running well again for under $40?
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I rode with stripped crank extractor threads for over 20 years. When I finally had to remove them I used the pickle fork method. Pretty brutal, need a metal shim against the bottom bracket but still wacked it pretty badly. Replaced the crank just last year.
Gear pullers have never worked for me.
Gear pullers have never worked for me.
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Self extracting crank bolts only work if the crank is already easy to remove, otherwise its a self stripping tool.
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I have drilled Stronglight cranks that have a fairly stripped bolt area. The threads are semi present, but they definitely dont look good and I plan to order the proper remover so I can ascertain if they are completely ruined or moderately functional. I think I have decided to use them anyway on an upcoming build (Peugeot PKN 10) because they are otherwise in perfect shape. My logic is, I may as well use them and just count on having to destroy them at a point in the future vs not using them at all and just recycling them. I dont mind having to resort to worst case scenario removal if I can get some more life out of them. Has anyone else here knowingly used a part that was damaged and resigned themselves to dealing with a potential hassle down the road?
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I rode with stripped crank extractor threads for over 20 years. When I finally had to remove them I used the pickle fork method. Pretty brutal, need a metal shim against the bottom bracket but still wacked it pretty badly. Replaced the crank just last year.
Gear pullers have never worked for me.
Gear pullers have never worked for me.
Last edited by HawkeyeMatt; 07-23-20 at 04:59 PM.
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You will scar your bottom bracket though
Last edited by Pop N Wood; 07-23-20 at 06:34 PM.
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I have a similar problem on a GT Palomar youth mountain bike I'm trying to refurbish (12.5" frame, 24-inch wheel, c. 2000) on the cheap. Bottom bracket is not spinning freely at all - Shimano tapered square cartridge needs replacing, I have concluded. I extracted non-drive side crank but stripped threads on DS crank have me stuck now.
Please advise on the best cost-effective options as far as extracting stuck crank, reinstalling or replacing crank with replacement BB:
Please advise on the best cost-effective options as far as extracting stuck crank, reinstalling or replacing crank with replacement BB:
- Do I have to remove the crank before I can get the bracket cartridge out? Is it possible or advisable to take the cartridge out entirely and then try to get the crank off? Is it easiest to get it off using those wedges against the frame's BB hub ... or once the cartridge is off somehow?
- How would I re-install the DS crank with stripped threads?
- What is the best way to get drivetrain running well again for under $40?
2) If by "stripped threads", you're referring to the threads on the arm, they have nothing to do with attaching the arm to the BB axle, so re-installation would not be affected. You would simply be relegated to using one of the alternate methods (Jacobs wedges, pickle fork, one of a few RJ videos) to remove it next time
3) If you're willing to use one of the alternate methods, cheapest method would be to replace the BB for $15-20 and re-install the arms including the stripped one.* Next cheapest option would be to replace the crankset as well, with an early entry-level one.** If you have a bike co-op nearby that's open, you might find a used one for $20-ish. Are the chainrings on yours riveted on, or bolted?
* Okay, one even cheaper option, but probably not worth the trouble. RJ the Bike Guy even has a video on how to take apart and re-grease a cartridge BB.
** One slim possibility, but not out of the question given it's a near entry-level model, is that this is one of the three late '90s Shimano crankset models that was subject to recall. Might be worth looking up, as you may be eligible for a free replacement.
Last edited by madpogue; 07-24-20 at 06:56 AM.
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I rode with stripped crank extractor threads for over 20 years. When I finally had to remove them I used the pickle fork method. Pretty brutal, need a metal shim against the bottom bracket but still wacked it pretty badly. Replaced the crank just last year.
Gear pullers have never worked for me.
Gear pullers have never worked for me.
Neither is the cartridge on the non-drive side that I can access close to budging. Doubting it's worth hacksawing through the crank for this frame.
I'm new to this but losing hope on this frame. Close to calling it quits and junking it :-( though that just seems wrong ... I want to make the Palomar GT a slow steady rebuild / learning experience but it is taking all my bike shop time to no avail now. I've got all the parts off it - in good shape mainly - as a consolation that will save me some face as I cut losses. Thoughts?
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WD40 won't do anything. It's not a penetrant.
HEAT on the arm might help. It will expand at a higher rate than the spindle.
RJ the Bike Guy on youtube has some other options, IIRC.
HEAT on the arm might help. It will expand at a higher rate than the spindle.
RJ the Bike Guy on youtube has some other options, IIRC.
Last edited by madpogue; 07-28-20 at 04:47 PM.
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Yeah was going to recommend a heat gun. Had to use that on my bottom bracket. Be sure to use a heavy hammer as well. It is often the sharp vibration as much as pressure that gets them to come off.
Hard to believe the pickle fork didn't work. A tool of last resort normally.
One last option would be to clamp the crank arm in a vice than use an air hammer on the end of the spindle. Works great on stub axles on a 240Z. Gonna eat the crank arm though
Some guy on here was claiming liquid nitrogen makes the ultimate stuck seat post remover. Not sure I would mess with that.
I guess next on my list of desperate tools is an angle grinder. Hacksaws take forever.
Hard to believe the pickle fork didn't work. A tool of last resort normally.
One last option would be to clamp the crank arm in a vice than use an air hammer on the end of the spindle. Works great on stub axles on a 240Z. Gonna eat the crank arm though
Some guy on here was claiming liquid nitrogen makes the ultimate stuck seat post remover. Not sure I would mess with that.
I guess next on my list of desperate tools is an angle grinder. Hacksaws take forever.