Revamped the Miyata 1000 today. Brakes! Replace or repair?
#1
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Revamped the Miyata 1000 today. Brakes! Replace or repair?
I put some 700x42c tires and flat bars on my 1000 today. I also changed the chain and RD.
I notice the front drivers side left brake isn’t springing/pulling as much as the right. they are mc70 Shimano and stock afaik. Is this most likely an issue with the spring? Are there other model brakes that have compatible springs? should I just invest in some new brakes?
Thanks!
I notice the front drivers side left brake isn’t springing/pulling as much as the right. they are mc70 Shimano and stock afaik. Is this most likely an issue with the spring? Are there other model brakes that have compatible springs? should I just invest in some new brakes?
Thanks!
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It all depends on how much you like them... and setting them up. You can get MC-70 brakes for $20 on eBay and pirate the spring and have some extra parts for the future.
Or you can get a set of Tektro's, or better, in aluminum and use V-Brake pads which are easy to setup.
I'm not anti-vintage cantilevers as I still have them on one of my bikes and I haven't been able to bring myself around to update them.
John
Or you can get a set of Tektro's, or better, in aluminum and use V-Brake pads which are easy to setup.
I'm not anti-vintage cantilevers as I still have them on one of my bikes and I haven't been able to bring myself around to update them.
John
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Have you taken the brakes apart, cleaned, relubed and properly adjusted them?
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Those are actually some of the best canti's you can buy. If spring tension is bad, you can see adjuster screw on one side to adjust? That should adjust for side to side tension. If it is truly weak, you may have a broken spring or you may just need to pull the brakes off clean everything everywhere and put it all back together. If it still seems weak it could just be a spring that's lost some of its tension. Take the brakes completely off and hopefully the brake post have three little spring holes on them simply move the cantilever spring to the next hole and you should have more tension on the brake. You still may have to do that on both sides so that it pulls back properly.
If you just want new, Tektro 720's are cheap and awesome.
Can you show some pics looking at the brakes?
If you just want new, Tektro 720's are cheap and awesome.
Can you show some pics looking at the brakes?
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#7
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So I took off both sides and inspected. Tightened post bolts snug by hand and one half turn w/ wrench and issue is fixed. The post only has one hole in the middle position. All parts were well lubed. Even the black pads. Is that normal?
Thanks for the help all
Thanks for the help all
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That 1000 (frame) looks to be in such lovely shape! If I learned anything, it was that 700C x 42mm tires fit (astounding!), and likely with fenders!
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Front wheel is not centered in the fork. Double-check seating of each side of the axle in the dropouts. If it's fully seated, and still off-center, flip the wheel around and re-mount, and again be sure it's fully seated. If the off-center switches to be too close to the left blade, then the rim is not centered between the hub faces, and you re-center it by adjusting spokes. If it's still off-center in the same manner, then the fork is likely bent. Fortunately, since it's steel, a capable shop should be able to straighten it.
+1 above, on the bike overall. Time capsule bike. Do you prefer friction mode? I actually like indexed thumbies.
(LOL "driver's side"....)
+1 above, on the bike overall. Time capsule bike. Do you prefer friction mode? I actually like indexed thumbies.
(LOL "driver's side"....)
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#17
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Hi, does the 1000 have removable / replaceable canti stud bosses?
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My M1000LT is a 1990 and they're not. I have 5 other bikes with canti/U-brake bosses from 84-87, and they all have fixed bosses.
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M732MT62Bottom by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
I've read of problems with the Tektro 720s on older bikes with narrower stud spacing- not just for 700c conversions- just using 27s and 720s. bikemig
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#20
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Ah yes, ok... tnxs. It seems to be the fate of all bikes of this era. I have often wondered when common implementation of replaceables came into being. All the bikes I own have fixed mounts. I've shimmed mine up to eliminate excessive wear play using thin brass.
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I can't think of "wear" being a whole lot of issue with canti studs. I see studs and bosses get damaged- but I don't see canti studs worn from use.
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No educated opinion here but I do know that's a nice bike. So many...
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Unless it's more of a problem that I know of...
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#24
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I've never seen or heard of a worn out cantilever post. I'd go so far as to say it doesn't happen. The brass bushing inside the canti caliper would wear out first if anything, and even that is a non issue in practice. I don't remember the reasoning behind non permanent posts. I'd imagine it was so they could be replaced if damaged in a crash. Not sure how useful that really is. May have made production easier. That seems more likely to me.
For older style cantilever brakes with no centering adjustment, like GB says, you adjust them by pulling the offending caliper back enough to bend the spring slightly. Centering can also be tweaked slightly by fiddling with the straddle and straddle wire. If it's off center, the adjustment will be off center too.
Don't forget the obvious. Make sure the wheel is dished properly, and the fork and frame is aligned. IOW the rim needs to be centered first. For post type pads, make sure that the pad posts are adjusted evenly on both sides.
For older style cantilever brakes with no centering adjustment, like GB says, you adjust them by pulling the offending caliper back enough to bend the spring slightly. Centering can also be tweaked slightly by fiddling with the straddle and straddle wire. If it's off center, the adjustment will be off center too.
Don't forget the obvious. Make sure the wheel is dished properly, and the fork and frame is aligned. IOW the rim needs to be centered first. For post type pads, make sure that the pad posts are adjusted evenly on both sides.
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Off-center wheel was noted on 05/05, post # 15