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Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!

Old 03-25-20, 09:33 PM
  #8426  
seypat
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
Vreds are good tires. But unless you have a bike those match....
They would look ok on one of the blue fade IM. Doesn't look good on the bike they came on. The bike has the same color housing and camo tape.
The PO had converted it to a Hipster fixie style bike. I'm taking it back to it's origins. A few weeks ago I posted this pic and ask for housing/tape advice. I didn't get any responses. I'll probably go with white or black.


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Old 03-25-20, 09:50 PM
  #8427  
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Jagwire makes a gold medal housing that I think would match the decal lining, but tape like that would look ridiculous.

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Old 03-26-20, 02:21 AM
  #8428  
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Originally Posted by TXsailor View Post
Someone is going to have to hold me by the hand and walk me through this yellow tire thing. I have found some 25's but nothing in 23 or narrower. I don't know if 25's would look right on those narrow rims. I'm not in a hurry for any just gathering stuff for when I get started on the MV. I did ride it around the neighborhood this evening. I haven't been home in the evenings in years. Its really quiet right now. Not many cars out, people sitting on their porches. I guess the shutdown isn't all bad.
Continental's cheap but good Ultra Sport II is available in many sidewall colors including yellow. Much better tire than the low price would indicate.

Conti just revamped the Ultra Sport III, which now resembles the tread of the Grand Prix Classic, minus the skinwall. It's also available with colored sidewalls, including yellow. The classic 1980s style tread pattern might appeal to some folks. It has a slightly raised center contact patch, with shallow chevron pattern tread on the shoulders. If it rides anything like the Grand Prix Classic it'll be a nice tire.

In terms of ride, I honestly can't feel any difference between the Ultra Sport II with slick contact patch, thicker sidewalls, and Pure Grip compound, vs the Grand Prix Classic with classic tread, skinwalls and Black Chili compound. Both are very good. But the Ultra Sport are a bargain. Both grip reasonably well on wet roads (but not ice -- I slipped on a small patch of ice under a puddle last week, but was going only about 5 mph so no harm to me or my bike). The Ultra Sport with Pure Grip may be slightly tougher. The GP Classic Black Chili has developed a few nicks, but nothing serious enough to warrant discarding the tire. It still has plenty of wear after more than 1,000 miles.

I may switch to the Ultra Sport III in 700x23 as soon as it's available. I like the GP Classic but it's 700x25 only and barely clears the rear brake bridge on my Ironman. If I ride through a puddle or mud there's some loud scraping for a few moments. That may be due to the raised center contact patch. The Ultra Sport II in 700x25 lacks that and it clears the Ironman just fine.
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Old 03-26-20, 08:33 PM
  #8429  
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Help me out guys. I have a Shogun 500 that was serviced recently but does need new tires and pedals--I'm lending it to a friend for her first triathlon. (No time soon because she's positive for the virus and in quarantine currently). What should I look for in a general/neutral pedal and an okay tire? The pedals on this bike were obviously clips with leather straps which were stripped so they're incredibly uncomfortable to ride. But it's a fun bike and I get a kick out of having a "sleeper" rider because it's basically a race touring bike. I kinda love it. It's the bike I ride when my kids want to go out.

And my second question...I have the Blue Smoke in the trainer (a fluid Cycleops) and I find that when I start a ride, it's noisey and I need to adjust my shifter for the crank. Is this normal or should I do something to stop this from happening? It's not a big deal, but my husband has complained about it the other day. (I wear an earbud in the only ear I can hear from so I don't notice it.)

Sorry for the silence. I have kids who are now "remote learning", a tax practice, and a husband who is working from home full time. Did I mention that my pool is closed until at least three weeks before my race? I'm not going to meet the cutoff for swim for my 5/30 race. Swim has always been my worst sport.
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Old 03-26-20, 09:47 PM
  #8430  
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A new rider unacustomed to clipping in would be happy with flat pedals and ride in her running shoes. But I'm not a tri guy. MKS pedals are so nice for 35 bucks and pretty sticky for pedaling most of the crank revolution. The other guys can recommend some sort if Continental tire.

Wrt noise, if you adjust the shifter and it stops, your fine.

edit: MKS Sylvan
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Old 03-26-20, 09:48 PM
  #8431  
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I like the GP5000 tire or even the 4000 if you find any. They should be cheaper since the 5000 replaced them.

For petals I like the fairly inexpensive Shimano PD-M520 but they are mtb pedals and require the 2 bolt cleat so you have to have a shoe that will take them.

I too only hear out of one ear. Its not really a big deal for me and even helps sometimes. When driving a convertible I can hear every word my wife says but I have to yell at her since she has noise in both ears. If she is driving I can't hear anything but wind.

I don't use a earbud on the trainer since its just the two of us at home and she hasn't complained yet. How about pedaling a little and getting everything set right then putting the earbud in? The derailleur should stay where you put it from ride to ride unless you are going back and forth from big to little ring.
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Old 03-26-20, 10:02 PM
  #8432  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
Jagwire makes a gold medal housing that I think would match the decal lining, but tape like that would look ridiculous.
Since when has that been an obstacle for you?
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Old 03-26-20, 11:12 PM
  #8433  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
Since when has that been an obstacle for you?
That's a valid point. Let me see if I can find some tape in "Vegas" gold color. That might be the one.
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Old 03-26-20, 11:48 PM
  #8434  
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Originally Posted by TriBiker19 View Post
Help me out guys. I have a Shogun 500 that was serviced recently but does need new tires and pedals--I'm lending it to a friend for her first triathlon. (No time soon because she's positive for the virus and in quarantine currently). What should I look for in a general/neutral pedal and an okay tire? The pedals on this bike were obviously clips with leather straps which were stripped so they're incredibly uncomfortable to ride. But it's a fun bike and I get a kick out of having a "sleeper" rider because it's basically a race touring bike. I kinda love it. It's the bike I ride when my kids want to go out.
Look for a pedal that beeps an alarm when another rider gets within 6 feet.


KIDDING -- let's all wish her speedy recovery, healing vibes, all that. Okay so she's new to triathlons, but is she new to road biking? All depends on what pedals she's accustomed to.

And my second question...I have the Blue Smoke in the trainer (a fluid Cycleops) and I find that when I start a ride, it's noisey and I need to adjust my shifter for the crank. Is this normal or should I do something to stop this from happening? It's not a big deal, but my husband has complained about it the other day. (I wear an earbud in the only ear I can hear from so I don't notice it.)
Front shifter, I reckon? Which chainring do you usually run on in the trainer? Could be the cable is slipping between uses. May just need to tighten the screw on the shifter.

Did I mention that my pool is closed until at least three weeks before my race? I'm not going to meet the cutoff for swim for my 5/30 race. Swim has always been my worst sport.
Keep in mind, most of your competitors will probably be just as behind in their training. Given the circumstances, gotta wonder if they'll extend the cutoffs.
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Old 03-27-20, 03:28 AM
  #8435  
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Originally Posted by TriBiker19 View Post
Help me out guys. I have a Shogun 500 that was serviced recently but does need new tires and pedals--I'm lending it to a friend for her first triathlon. (No time soon because she's positive for the virus and in quarantine currently). What should I look for in a general/neutral pedal and an okay tire? The pedals on this bike were obviously clips with leather straps which were stripped so they're incredibly uncomfortable to ride. But it's a fun bike and I get a kick out of having a "sleeper" rider because it's basically a race touring bike. I kinda love it. It's the bike I ride when my kids want to go out.

And my second question...I have the Blue Smoke in the trainer (a fluid Cycleops) and I find that when I start a ride, it's noisey and I need to adjust my shifter for the crank. Is this normal or should I do something to stop this from happening? It's not a big deal, but my husband has complained about it the other day. (I wear an earbud in the only ear I can hear from so I don't notice it.)

Sorry for the silence. I have kids who are now "remote learning", a tax practice, and a husband who is working from home full time. Did I mention that my pool is closed until at least three weeks before my race? I'm not going to meet the cutoff for swim for my 5/30 race. Swim has always been my worst sport.
For s good relatively inexpensive tire I'd go with what C-Cat suggested a few post above this one.
For pedals, I'd recommend those big plastic platform pedals that a lot of BF members use. I had some pink ones on a beater bike and they were really comfortable with running shoes.
On the front derailleur, it could be a number of things. So just you tube a how to adjust a front derailleur, rj the bike guy probably has an easy to follow one.
Finally, as far as the swim that's my weakest event also. I've found that lifting weights helps a ton. The idea is to gain strength yet still retain muscular endurance. So 3 sets of 12 reps I find is the sweet spot.
Don't give up, don't quit, stay on your grind.
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Old 03-27-20, 06:55 AM
  #8436  
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How about a nearly new pair of 23mm Continental Ultra Gatorskins, pair of good used tubes, and some 105 pedals with cages and straps for the price of postage- medium box would be about $19? Can also toss in a set of MTB pedals if your friend comes up with a pair of appropriate shoes.
PM me if interested.
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Old 03-27-20, 07:22 AM
  #8437  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
How about a nearly new pair of 23mm Continental Ultra Gatorskins, pair of good used tubes, and some 105 pedals with cages and straps for the price of postage- medium box would be about $19? Can also toss in a set of MTB pedals if your friend comes up with a pair of appropriate shoes.
PM me if interested.
U da man.
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Old 03-27-20, 06:04 PM
  #8438  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
u da man.
+1.
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Old 03-27-20, 06:14 PM
  #8439  
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It's been a hectic week, but finally time for another episode of Ironman Nation How to mechanic. This episode we'll get back to the basics for the noobs. We'll overhaul/service the Bottom Bracket and the headset. Here is a pic of our project. Notice the freshly repositioned handlebars.

Speaking of handlebars, it appears I have a chunk out of the tape below the brakes. It might be time for some new tape.
If you are looking for new tape and find an exotic color or pattern you think might work, let me show you a quick money saving tip.

Last edited by seypat; 03-27-20 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 03-27-20, 06:20 PM
  #8440  
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Before you take a chance and order the new stuff, make a mockup first. Find some party/wrapping ribbon similar to the tape you are thinking about.


Temporarily put it on with some tape and see what it looks like. Better to waste a buck or two before you order the tape.
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Old 03-27-20, 06:33 PM
  #8441  
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That's hideous! I don't know what I was thinking. It does match the chainstay protector and rims, however. Mr. Bingley hates it so much he turned away. Good thing I didn't order the real stuff before I checked. That would have been $20 wasted.

Anyway, let's get to the BB.
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Old 03-27-20, 06:47 PM
  #8442  
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How to mechanic BB service continued.

I already showed you how to get the crank off. We'll start with the cranks arms off.


Cup/spindle/bearings Bottom Bracket assemblies consist of a fixed cup, a spindle, an adjustable cup, lock ring and bearings. The bearing can be either loose, or in cages. There also could be a cool

spindle sleeve/protector as well. Loose bearings make for a better setup. Some cups come with rubber seals like this one. This is the exact model that is on this bike. Be careful with the seals.

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Old 03-27-20, 07:12 PM
  #8443  
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How to mechanic BB service continued.

The tools to remove the cups are:
A lock ring tool and a cup spanner wrench.
You don't need to remove the fixed cup. They can be stubborn. If you decide to remove it, you will need a big a$$ adjustable wrench also. The best way to remove it however, is with a shop vise.

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Old 03-27-20, 07:18 PM
  #8444  
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Looks like I'm not the only one OCD enough to line up the slots of the chainring nuts on a tangent.
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Old 03-27-20, 07:24 PM
  #8445  
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How to mechanic BB service continued.

Put on some gloves because your hands will get greasy. Use the lock ring tool to loosen the ring, then take it off. Lefty loosey. Next, use the spanner wrench to remove the adjustable cup. Lefty loosey also. Before you take it out, get something to catch any loose parts. Remove it and the spindle as well.


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Old 03-27-20, 07:34 PM
  #8446  
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How to mechanic BB service continued.

Let's see what was in there. Loose balls. That is good setup for a bike, but not a positive situation for an aging male. If you have this situation, I suggest switching from boxers to briefs or boxer briefs. That will provide some support/stability and tighten things up a bit.

Manufacturers started using caged bearings as a cost cutting and assembly reduction process. You can find the correct size bearing for your model at Velobase.

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Old 03-27-20, 07:48 PM
  #8447  
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How to mechanic BB service continued.

Next you need to clean the cup/cups, spindle and bearings. Then inspect the bearing races for pitting. You can look up images for pitting. Normally I would take out the fixed cup because it is harder getting loose bearings back in when it is still in. This one didn't budge, so I left it in. Use whatever means you have to get it clean. Pipe cleaner, tooth brush, whatever.

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Old 03-27-20, 07:59 PM
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How to mechanic BB service continued.

If everything is in good shape, time to reinstall. You can use the old bearing or put in some new ones. Bearings are cheap. Might as well put some new ones in. Again, check Velobase for correct bearing size and the number on each side. The rule of thumb is fill the race with bearings until there is not any room for another, then take one out. They must have some room when they connect with the spindle. Put some grease in the races before you put the bearings in.

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Old 03-27-20, 08:11 PM
  #8449  
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How to mechanic BB service continued.

Now to the fixed cup. If the fixed cup is on the bicycle, getting the loose bearings back in is no easy task. Here is how to do it. Lay the bike on it's drive side with the open/adjustable side up. Use a plastic knife or something and grease up the bearing race going in through the top opening. Take the bearings one at a time and push them up through the opening in the fixed cup into the greasy bearing race. Use a screwdriver in the other hand from the top to help guide them into the race. For caged bearings, put them in from the top. Note the correct alignment.



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Old 03-27-20, 08:14 PM
  #8450  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
How about a nearly new pair of 23mm Continental Ultra Gatorskins, pair of good used tubes, and some 105 pedals with cages and straps for the price of postage- medium box would be about $19? Can also toss in a set of MTB pedals if your friend comes up with a pair of appropriate shoes.
PM me if interested.
I'll be PMing you. Thank you, Doc.

I just had my husband reconfirm the wheel size and the tires only have Mitsubishi and Japan on them (they're old enough that strands are popping out of the sidewalls). This is what the rims look like. They say "27 x 1 1/4 w/o Japan". w/o? How can I clean up those rims? Some soap and a green scrub pad?

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