Kai Winters

Rebuilt a C'dale Slice yesterday...new cockpit toys, rear saddle cages, replaced all cables/housings, etc. Came out nice.
No name adult tricycle that hadn't been used in years...covered in cob webs and spider egg nests...ick...replaced tubes, rim strips and the usual tuneup stuff. Always funny to adjust the leather band style rear brake...still working well.

50yr_roadie

Where'd you find them? I'm doing a restoration / period-correct upgrade of a '74 black and gold Peugeot uo-8. This would be a nice touch.

DAbiker2023

Done. Replaced the new wheels with the refurbished originals.

with new CR18 rims.

with original Sansin/Arya wheels

ascherer 

C&V: where a simple question gets you a loooong answer.
If you're working on a UO-8 it would have MAFAC Racer brakes. The pivot assembly is different between the Racer and the Competition I posted about, and you can't just replace the outer washers on Racers. I upgraded a set of Racers this winter, here's some pics:



The item that looks like a red tophat is an integrated bushing/washer and the flat washer sits behind the brake arms. I got the bushings from another forum member, and there's a conversation about them here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post22806136. The old Delrin bushings came out easily and I used a vise to push in the new ones. The old pivot bolts could have been polished but in my experience they just get dull again so I replaced them with allen bolts, I think they're M6. I got the brass washers and allen bolts from my local hardware store, they both needed some modification, the bolts had to be cut shorter and the inner diameter of the washers needed to be a bit larger. I used a reamer and files for that. Alternatively, you can buy some excellent and pricey ready-to-go parts from Rene Herse.

Competitions use metal bushings and flat Delrin washers fore and aft, so it was a simple matter to clean everything up and put the brass washers on. Hope this is helpful, good luck with the resto and post some pictures!

fender1

Just picked this Dawes Super Tourist up off FB market place.






It was covered with dried, caked on mud and dust. I hosed it off and applied a liberal dose of PB blaster to everything.
I will let it sit in the garage for a couple of days to let the pb blaster do it’s thing and evaporate. The smell can be pretty intense in closed in basement!

delbiker1 

Once again, I partially re-built my Fuji Ace, now a 1 X with 44t chain ring, and 11-40 10 speed cassette. The bike has been my experimental rat for trying different things, including refinishing. Through all the changes, I have not spent many dollars on it. It's been stuff I had on hand or was given to me, or traded an item for something else. It has been a really good learning tool for me. It has compact drop bars with a 4600 right brifter, and 6500 on the left with just the brake cable. Pretty sure I will be switching to a Velo Orange Porteur bar, bar end lever on the right, and cross type brake levers. The crankset is FSA Omega with just the one ring on the outside.
I took it out for a 20 mile ride today, all is good and operating as it should. I have 30mm Zaffiro Pro G tires on it, maxes out at 32, an old set of Bontrager Race Lite wheels that are really good condition. The bike is really comfortable, but definitely on the heavy side.
I really thought I would not do a 1 X, but I had stuff and a rainy windy day yesterday. The Fuji was just sitting partially torn down. I thought I was giving it to a nephew, but he never got back with me. Being that I am about a 95% good pavement rider, and live in flatland Delaware, the 1X is just a curiosity for me. I like it fine, the gears matchup with me pretty well. I do really feel a couple of the gear jumps, particularly 15t to18t. I feel the change from 18t to 21t, but not quite as much.
I am glad I did it, and no will no longer have that question bouncing around in my brain. Now, if my nephew decides he wants to claim it, I will likely give it up. I have posted too many pics of this bike through all the changes, it looks basically the same, no need to post another.

Nemosengineer 

I got started on the 11 speed gear hub NJS Stratos track bike. The frame spread went well, cold set to 136mm, no drama the dropouts aligned easily as did the frame. Park tools are the shiznit...
Next up will be verification of the chain line and develop a plan for the shift cable routing for the Alfine Hub.


Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

steine13

Where are you going with this? Track bike, no provisions for braking....with a freewheeling 11 speed hub...?

There has to be a plan behind this.

cheers -mathias

Nemosengineer 

Hi Mathias,
There is a concept, sort of a modern day 1947 Raleigh Record Ace only short and twitchy. I'm trying to keep the build as simple as possible, target weight is 19 lbs. I might be a bit over though. Brakes will be Avid Shorty Ultimate CX cantilever (ordered) on braze on posts. Cockpit will be a titanium Brooks B15 swallow that has been in a box for the last 4 years, bars will be Nitto B125 in a 80mm Nitto Craft stem, seat post will also be a Nitto NJS part.
I'm currently looking for a good local wheel builder as my last guy turned out to be a flake... ouch. any way here is a preview of the crankset.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

Bergz

I picked up 3x 700c wheels from the metal recycling pile at the dump at the weekend, mainly for the near new Continental 35mm tires. One had a 7 speed Shimano freewheel I wanted so out with the splined removal tool. Didn't budge but the removal tool began to slip.... I read somewhere that you can tap an appropriate sized bolt into the freewheel splines and use that. Found an appropriate bolt and clamped up in the vice. A good wrench on the rim later and I heard a great "crack" Great, that's broken it free I thought.
Hmmm. sure had broken it! And worst of all, the freewheel is still stuck.

etherhuffer 

VO Diagonale rims, 105 hubs, Sapim race spokes, 650b. For a Fuji S12S LTD resto-mod

billnuke1 

I’m a big vice fan! I’ve got them everywhere! Sorry to see yours this way!

52telecaster

Man that must have been well mounted. Mine always turn

VintageSteelEU

Yeah... "Made in England" is the direct cause of the crack... You need some replacement "Made in Germany". Some proper Heuer. Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Heuer whatsoever.

merziac

We like to think of a vice as indestructible and they often are.

Looks like maybe no spacer on the other side of the jaws, uneven load, snap!

They need a little love from time to time, ya gotta lube the screw and slide from time to time.

Velo Mule

I picked up a well abused Trek 830 a few weeks back for a parts bike. I was mainly interested in the drivetrain and shifters, however, any additional good parts are always good to save for some future project. In trying to get the bike apart, the stem was stuck. I loosened the stem bolt and gave it a few more wacks with carpenters hammer. Then hit the stem bolt harder but not hard enough to damage the bolt. The stem wedge loosened. It turned out that the shop that assembled the bike greased the seat post but not the stem wedge. Or maybe that was Trek's job.

The threads in the wedge were damaged from the beating. My fault, maybe.




Well, usually that would be the end of the stem wedge, but I thought I could at least try to repair it by drilling and tapping in a larger bolt, cutting this bolt to fit in the wedge and then drilling and tapping it M6. This is one of those "nothing to loose" propositions. If the repair fails, the part was going to get tossed anyway and I would learn something from the experience.




I should have drilled and tapped a 7/16" - 20 nf, but I didn't have that size screw. So I went for 3/8" - 16 coarse thread. That would not have left enough steel for the M6, but that wasn't the issue. I was able to drill and tap the wedge pretty well. In the process of tightening the vise to hold the wedge while I deformed teh screw threads, I clamped the wedge hard enough to crack it. The crack is easier to see with MarkerfFlux, a crude version of MagnaFlux.




What I learned:
- Stem wedges are cast iron (I knew this already, but had it reinforced)
- Not all stem wedges are the same hardness (softness)
- This wedge was on the softer side
- Don't use a 3/8" bolt to repair an M6 tapped hole
- Don't use a grade 5 bolt to repair a stem wedge because it is too hard
- Use Loctite high strength threadlocker or CA glue to hold the threaded insert in
- Don't try to tighten the wedge in a vise so tight
- Just forget about trying to repair a stem wedge
- I'm an idiot

Nemosengineer 

It's been a good day, I found a wheel builder local to me and had a nice conversion, made an appointment for Thursday, looks like DT Swiss spokes and nipples.
I don't know when a stash becomes a horde but I think I'm getting close... I found the rims, The seat, NJS Makashima pedals with factory titanium spindles, the bars and the stem. I found the NJS seatpost I was looking for and it's 26.8mm not 27.2mm. Cant win them all but I did find a set of Campy levers I did not know I had : )

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr


: Mike

etherhuffer 

“It is a fine line between sheer genius and absolute stupidity”. I have crossed this line many times, often in the wrong direction. That said, if you don’t try anything you won’t learn anything!

mrv 

--- so my idea for starting a B-F Self-Help group for Those of Us Bad at Wrenching (SHTuBaW) is possibly not needed? Several recent failures (one quite epic) have me down a bit. Thinking of starting a 12 Step program to break the habit and just ride the working bikes I have.

Cheers!
mrv ("stop be before I buy another project bike")

SurferRosa

Got this Cinelli stem yesterday from @hazetguy. It was black anodized.

Positron400

Makes sense you posting it today, as it must've taking you 24 h to get the anodizing off - Kudos! Way too few silver/grey parts out there. Everything seems to have gone black..

VintageSteelEU

Good to know CInelli 1A can come black anodised. I will be looking for various black parts in a few months. Wasn't planning Italian components, but good to know there's an option. I only seem to find 3T black stems.

SurferRosa

Well, I didn't time myself, but it definitely took longer than I thought it was going to. After deanodization, I started with sandpaper, and that was a mistake. Wasted a lot of time. I should have just started with a file to remove all the little cloudy areas left behind and only then moved to 600 grit under a dripping faucet.

Nemosengineer 

Another good day. Worked on the cockpit swapped out the Campy Record levers for IRD Campy aero copy's for better hand position, fitted the Jtek shifter (its a large item but it has to pull a lot of wire) and used a 0.3mm shim to get a solid instillation (the Nitto bars are 23.8mm, the Jtek is machined to fit 24mm).
Received a shipment from NJS EXPORT, toe straps, pedals, and a really nice NJS Hatta alloy headset. From amazon a Dura Ace shift cable kit.
Some days you have to bite the bullet... The correct size Nitto NJS seatpost had to be ordered from Germany because all the usual sources are out of the 27.2mm, ouch its on the way.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

VintageSteelEU

I think Hatta used to make Superbe headsets for Suntour back in the 80's.
This will be an interesting bicycle, looking forward to the photos of it when it's built up