badangel

Hi guys . I am working in uber eats... I am looking an e- bike. Bike's battery is so important for me. I am riding between 6-8 hours in a day. What kind e-bike could be better u think ? Thanks

MikeDD

You need to go to www.electricbikereview.com

nfmisso

A really BIG lithium battery.

My extremely conservative rule for commuting is 50Wh per mile - most people consume between 8 to 25 Wh mile; I like to have a LOT of reserve, as the personal cost to be to lose battery power is very high. Wh = Watt-hour = Amp-hour x Volts.

How far are you going to go in a shift?

What sort of hills are you going to encounter?

Is there a possibility of charging or swapping batteries during your shift?

Your power consumption is likely to be on the high end per mile because of the frequent stops, heavier weight and lots of low speed acceleration.

Doc_Wui

Badangel, how many miles do you ride now in a typical 6 hour day? How fast do you go? What's the budget? We have to assume you're pretty fit, to spend that much time riding.

The big bike makers want to sell $3000 ebikes to customers that mainly ride a bit on weekends or after work. A few might commute to work. I don't think this kind of bike makes sense for food delivery. I would want a bike that uses off-the-shelf ebike batteries so I could have a spare for $300-400, and not be paying bike shop prices of $800-1000. With a spare battery, you can carry it or have it on charge. Also I'd want something inexpensive and ugly to mitigate theft. It's going to have a throttle to save energy getting started from stops. It's going to have pedal assist for efficiency.

badangel

dilkes

I believe he was suggesting $300-$400 for a spare battery only, not for a bike.

badangel

Could u give me an advice about used e bike ?

1nterceptor

Craigslist.

2old

The battery, frequently the most expensive part of an ebike, possibly is toast on a used bike. Make sure the bike you choose has a "fresh" battery or the bike is cheap enough that it's a good deal even if you need to buy a new battery. DW is much better than I am telling you how to assess the battery. IMO, a new system would be preferable to used.

ELECYCLES

For such a long-time riding, you could choose a 250W electric bike or conversion kits with pedal assistance.
The battery should be with big capacity or with dual battery.

drowling23

You really need to specify the distances and the speed you need. Even a Bosch DualBattery setup with 1kWh will only give you 100km in Sport mode (200km on eco), which may or may not be enough for your purposes.
Also need to know your budget. Best recommendation I can give is a Yamaha-equipped bike with a custom made battery. Alternatively, buy any type of motor and get some extra batteries to carry with you. Each battery weighs 2kg which is insignificant compared to your own weight.

badangel

3speed

rmueller

Check out ebikemaps.com, You can 'test' any number of ebikes over the courses you normally would ride and compare the results (how much effort, how the battery will perform...etc.). Once you zero in on a couple of choices, go out and ride them at the lbs.

Khb

many wise words elided ....

How big/heavy are the loads? You might well want a cargo style bike, and/or front and back racks (I have a Stromer, standard rack on the back, a Thule on the front). Do you need shocks to keep the food from potholes? Once you get past determining what frame/shocks will work for you, then test ride a bunch of bikes (ideally, with a model load). DIY may be cheaper, if you are skilled. If you go for off the shelf, plan to invest in a second or third battery. Ideally, cache battery+charger at one of the friendly resturants you do the most business with. Swap batteries long before you run low.

As much fun as Class 3 bikes are, with the range you desire, I'd stick with Class 1 (2 if you really need a throttle).

Oh, you might consider a Burley Travoy ... with soft sided cooler(s) it might be useful. But note, it's pretty narrow (good in that it feels like it's not there, narrower than my shoulders ;>) which might not work for your food loads. A regular trailer (e.g. the Burley cargo trailer) is more flexible ... but much more annoying to park, back-up, etc.

FWIW, over 10K miles, I've averaged <!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;**br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;**-->0.0269 kwh/mi on my Stromer. I have only a few data points for my wife's new Haibike, but that does seem to be about 2x as efficient (Class 3 vs. 1). Older bikes (and less expensive ones to this day, and probably all DIY) base their dynamic range forecast on voltage. That's pretty poor for LiON batteries ... so bear that in mind as you manage your "state of charge" during a long work day.

Tino Tino

Every delivery guy in Manhattan use the same ebike for delivery, Arrow something. You can find the thread on endless sphere.

lkoyanagi

You can hook up a second connector for a second battery with an A-B switch for nonstop riding or carry an extra battery in backpack, on rack or in pannier.

I dont think there are single bike batteries that last 8 hours. Drainage is significant, so far.

There are industrial polyester long life batteries that are being adapted for consumer use, slowly, because of cost of R&D. Lithium-ion is widespread now with ni-cad bringing up the rear.

Joey21

Jueshuai 48V 500W Electric Bike s900 26" 48V 12AH

More or less the same bikes the NYC delivery guys ride. We bought one and it has been really good. I changed out the stem and handle bars for a more relaxed posture than the flat bar the bike came with. Its marketed as a mtn bike but there is not much mtn in this bike. It is fine on dirt/grass/mud/wet roads. I posted this same answer in another thread. I don't sell these bikes and I'm not connected to the company in any way. Just like this bike.

I have also seen it marketed as "DJ Bikes Electric Mountain Bike" but some details are different (display, motor, some controls). I think the Jueshuai is nicer.

lkoyanagi

As well as distance that some batteries lives are gauged by.

My ebike shop owner said, if I need more distance, he can add another battery with a switch. Otherwise, a bus or reroute on flats may work. Try to power down with tail winds and streamline your clothing as a practice.

Try to use the lowest power setting, even zero, and off and appropriate gear, when possible. On cooler days or times, you can expend more leg energy. It is critical you think of preserving battery power all the time depending on conditions.

You can even have fresh batteries on chargers at your turnaround destination. In the future, longer lasting batteries may be available.

lkoyanagi

Consider a throttle. Some municipalities say its illegal or change registration to a non bike level.
Throttles are illegal due to the danger to others for unexpected activation, which I experienced with a cheap switch. There are different switches. Do not activate it while off the bike.

Consider disc brakes and fatter tires, if a powerful motor. Consider battery distance not time to depletion. Your computer will tell distance traveled and remaining power.

Joey21

Smaller motor and bigger battery. If I pin the throttle on my "big" bike the battery takes a hit. If I pin the throttle on my son's 500W bike the battery hardly notices. If you can get by with a 250W or 350W motor, it will last longer per charge. My son's bike uses a "silverfish" style battery incorporated into the frame behind the seat post. Would be really easy to add another battery to the water bottle mount on the diagonal bar at the bottom of the triangle and even a third cargo rack battery. Of course the bike would weigh about the same as a boat anchor and its value would be significant based only on the cost of the batteries. Still that would be a 48V ~50-60AH battery all together. Considering his 500W bike can last 40 miles with a 12AH battery he could potentially go 200 miles per charge on a 60AH battery.