I want to talk about incandescent lighting
#26
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oohh! That looks pretty good! Any idea who makes it or where it came from?
Maybe there's interest in an external electronic circuit that could rectify the AC power, convert it down to the 3V (or up to whatever voltage it needs?), and provide a standlight function?
Neat lights too! Was that a standard style for that era? They look suited to the roadster style bike... a bit heavy, but rugged.
Steve in Peoria
Maybe there's interest in an external electronic circuit that could rectify the AC power, convert it down to the 3V (or up to whatever voltage it needs?), and provide a standlight function?
Neat lights too! Was that a standard style for that era? They look suited to the roadster style bike... a bit heavy, but rugged.
Steve in Peoria
I recommend getting a few - they're a bit fragile, I had a couple actually break just from installing them! (The wires connecting the LEDs to the screw base).
I would like to try to set up some sort of smoothing/standlight circuit for it, but ideally it'd be something that can be hidden inside the body of the light itself.
As far as I know, that was a pretty typical style for the era, although I believe the light I have is actually the lighter-weight version. There was another version with two bulbs for different amounts of brightness and a switch to select between them
#27
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This is the bulb I used: https://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-b...led-light.aspx
I recommend getting a few - they're a bit fragile, I had a couple actually break just from installing them! (The wires connecting the LEDs to the screw base).
I would like to try to set up some sort of smoothing/standlight circuit for it, but ideally it'd be something that can be hidden inside the body of the light itself.
As far as I know, that was a pretty typical style for the era, although I believe the light I have is actually the lighter-weight version. There was another version with two bulbs for different amounts of brightness and a switch to select between them
I recommend getting a few - they're a bit fragile, I had a couple actually break just from installing them! (The wires connecting the LEDs to the screw base).
I would like to try to set up some sort of smoothing/standlight circuit for it, but ideally it'd be something that can be hidden inside the body of the light itself.
As far as I know, that was a pretty typical style for the era, although I believe the light I have is actually the lighter-weight version. There was another version with two bulbs for different amounts of brightness and a switch to select between them
https://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-b...ight-bulb.aspx
In the best case scenario, it will draw nearly a watt. With a bike dynamo, it'll be less. Hard to say by how much.
You should be able to improve things by wiring a full wave rectifier between the dynamo and bulb, since the bulb is advertised as being designed for DC power and not AC.
Adding a capacitor at the output of the full wave rectifier should reduce flicker. Without being able to make some measurements, I can't tell what voltage the capacitor should be rated for. A guess would be 15V. A supercap would help provide a standlight, but they are typically rated for 5.5V or less. There are ways of configuring more that one supercap to handle higher voltages, but it gets more expensive and complicated.
Steve in Peoria
#28
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Seems a trend to overdrive LED, for brighter output but they need heatsinks
so a screw in incandescent substitute will be more be seen,
than see clearly by in the dark minus streetlights (?)
so a screw in incandescent substitute will be more be seen,
than see clearly by in the dark minus streetlights (?)
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