LifeNovice1

Anyone know anything about it? Looks like and igh on the back, right?

LifeNovice1

Any idea what year? Model? I'm guessing Collegiate? Isn't that an igh?

thinktubes 

79-ish Collegiate Tourist, $75-175-ish

3alarmer 

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...yes, I do think that's an IGH. Schwinn made a number of different models around this basic design arrangement. Someone will probably tell you the year, but if you think that's the original rear hub, it will have a dated code on it. If there is a downside to these, it is that the Schwinn proprietary tyre sizes are not available in a better tyre. But you might be lucky, and it might have a regular 27" rim. I can't tell from that photo.

zukahn1 

Can't remember the exact model name for the 3 speed off hand this one is mid 70's as for value in good working order with nice metalic paint and chrome cleaned up I would say $150 or so. Not a great rider but someone will want it for short city rides were fashion seems more important than utility,

dweenk

Looks to be in decenct shape from the poor photo. I would be lucky to get $50 in my market.

Vintage Schwinn

The "traditional" COLLEGIATE of 1964 onward that came out of Chicago was a FIVE SPEED with a rear derailleur.
Schwinn also attached the COLLEGIATE name on 3 speeds that were essentially clones of previous TRAVELER, and current BREEZE, SPEEDSTER, RACER, etc models.
1970, I think had a 3 sp Collegiate model, and then not again until around 1979-1980 did Schwinn return with a 3 sp that was badged as Collegiate.

You can GOOGLE: 1971 - 1980 Schwinn Catalogs
See the waterford site link.................that has all of that era............scroll through and see the models offered year by year....
For comparison to earlier Schwinn models which were essentially the same but may have had different model names. GOOGLE 1961 - 1970 Schwinn Catalogs and see the waterford site link. ( You should be able to just GOOGLE (whatever year) Schwinn Catalog.......like say 1977 Schwinn Catalog, or ....1966 Schwinn Catalog ...or whatever year and you should find the waterford site link that hosts the various Schwinn Catalogs from the fifties through 1980.

Because Schwinn electroforged basic bicycles are so simple and so durable if not run over by a car or truck in the garage or elsewhere, and if not left outdoors in the garden for years as yard-art,-----most Schwinn bikes are still easily made roadworthy again! Now, this ease of re-habbing an old Schwinn does lead to swapping of parts by the person currently making it road ready again.......................Co-op workers and the homeless typically take the parts that have the nicest appearance (cleanest) as that makes things simple and quick when you have a large group of many of the same type of old Schwinns to pull parts or to build from..........often you get high quality frankenstein builds which mix across the various model names and years of old Schwinns.
For this reason, you'll find plenty of old Schwinns which don't exactly correspond to what the decal badging should be for that year-era. IT REALLY MAKES NO DIFFERENCE!!! IF THE BICYCLE IS SUITABLE TO YOUR SIZE AND HAS BEEN ASSEMBLED TO AN ACCEPTABLE STANDARD FOR SUCH A BICYCLE, WHO CARES, AS IT WILL RIDE COMFORTABLY AND SAFELY AND WILL BE EXTREMELY DURABLE. There is no "collectible" market value for the common electroforged Schwinn 'lightweights' which all sold in millions of quantities. Yeah, there are some favored sought after colors of some bikes but yeah perhaps that might add 5% to the ordinary market value, and that is all that you essentially have is the bare-bones rockbottom value of such an old "lightweight" Schwinn. The value is as low as you can get for a rideable, roadworthy bicycle. That likely will not change. Some geographic areas, and areas with major universities with 20,000+ on campus population have a greater demand for the old supremely durable Schwinns which are extremely inexpensive, and thus not particularly attractive for thieves. Essentially, nobody wants old electroforged-'lightweight" Schwinns because these old bikes easily weigh twice as much as modern road bikes. These folks don't care, even if they choose and select a modern comfort-hybrid type bike which weighs nearly as much as an ancient Schwinn. IF BICYCLE WEIGHT IS NOT REALLY AN ISSUE FOR THE BICYCLE RIDER, THEN, THESE OLD SCHWINNS ARE FANTASTIC GENERAL PURPOSE BICYCLES THAT IF IN GOOD CONDITION ARE FAR MORE DURABLE THAN ANY OTHERS.......and extremely simple for anyone wishing to do-it-yourself...

Basically from sometime during the 1970 model year, SCHWINN began placing the SERIAL NUMBER on the headtube, just below the iconic oval white SCHWINN headbadge.
You will see two letters followed by numbers.
THE 2nd LETTER denotes the YEAR and THE 1st LETTER denotes the MONTH
(The Letters "eye" and "oh" WERE NOT USED AS Schwinn thought that THEY LOOK TOO MUCH LIKE one AND zero.)

For example: (YEAR = 2nd LETTER)
M=1976
N=1977
P=1978
Q=1979
R=1980

F=1970
G=1971
H=1972
J=1973
K=1974
L=1975

YOU SEE THAT both "oh" and "eye" WERE OMITTED!!!

They did the same thing with the MONTH (1st LETTER that you see at serial number....remember 1st letter=MONTH and 2nd Letter=YEAR.)
A=Jan
B=Feb
C=Mar
D=Apr
E=May
F=Jun
G=Jul
H=Aug
J=Sep
K=Oct
L=Nov
M=Dec
(as you can see that "eye" has been omitted, because you've got only twelve months that it ends with M )

If you wish to know more, just GOOGLE: Schwinn Serial Number Dating.
I will tell you this that beginning at sometime during 1976, I think that SCHWINN began also stamping a very small date code stamp on to the face of the iconic White Oval SCHWINN headbadge that appears near the letter eye. You can GOOGLE for how to decipher this. THIS DATE CODE IS ONLY SEEN ON 1976 and BEYOND HEAD BADGES. Many folks are not aware of this code that is applicable to 1976 and on, so they often replace there missing White OVAL SCHWINN Badge with a nicer looking example which is from the wrong era............seeing the date code stamp on a headbadge on a "bike boom" Schwinn from 1970-1975 just means that someone later replaced a missing or otherwise scarred ugly faded badge with something salvaged from a 1976 onward bike.......................on the other hand, you'll see some later day, late seventies, early eighties Chicago end bikes that should have the coded badge but have a badge salvaged from a 1975 or earlier bike. Just like pedals, seats, chainguards, fenders, handlebars, and other things like the type of 46 tooth front crankwheel (4 round hole "CLOVER" or "mag style" that was first seen in the late sixties on some models, or the "sweetheart" design from 80+ years ago with 4 heart like holes)...................heck you'll see all kinds off various front crankwheels that are made for the one-piece Ashtabula cranks, even if those crankwheel's came from ancient bikes of other brands, or are aftermkt new replacements in whatever tooth sizes, not just the typical 46. You can help dial in a possible more suitable gear ratio for your situation if you might benefit from doing so................Basically if you change nothing else...............but going with a Smaller number of teeth on front crankwheel -----WILL GIVE YOU BETTER HILL CLIMBING and Less Top-Speed Potential........example would be going from the standard 46 to something like 44 or 42 or whatever assuming it has less............
If you were to go the other way and go from the standard 46 to something like 48 or 50 or 52, will give you theoretically More Top-Speed Potential and A REDUCTION IN YOUR ABILITY TO CLIMB STEEP HILLS. I mentioned theoretically for top-speed because, well heck yes, the 52 tooth front crankwheel will move the bicycle farther along for each pedal revolution BUT if you are too weak to be able to turn the crank at close enough to the same rate as previously done with 46, you may not see any significant improvement and you might benefit from say a 48....................IT DEPENDS. Assuming the ability to turn the crank at nearly the exact same rate, then yes the larger sized front crankwheel WILL yield the greater top-speed potential. Please remember that "speed potential" is largely a fools game on any ancient 3 speed, as well as most all modern 7 speed hybrid type comfort bicycles. If you gotta keep up with a racing "pack" on a group ride, then find a new group or get a suitable racing bike. Enjoy the bike for what it is. If that isn't sporty and fast enough for your pleasure then do go find the bike that will do that for you.
There are no laws saying you can't own different bicycles. New or old, turtle slow or lightning fast, it is all about having fun while riding!

thinktubes