Rear Rack as Fender?
#26
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I just saw in another thread that Planet Bike makes a fender called SpeedEZ that can be fitted onto bikes without eyelets. It appears they attach at the forks and seat stays with rubber straps. Who knew? I'm going to ask our LBS to see if they think they'll work on my MTB.
Really? The guy is running a Rohlof hub on his bike and using a ghetto fender set-up?
#27
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Does the seatstay bridge have a bolt hole?
The rear chainstay bride is very high. If you want to extend the fender below, you may have to make some kind of bracket to the seat-tube. You can use wood, plastic, metal, whatever you can work best.
Plastic fenders can be fixed with small zip-ties, you drill a hole, 4-5mm diam at least 1cm from the edge.
Racks with top-plates make poor fenders and not very good racks. Open top framework designs allow you to lash oversized objects to the top more easily.
I have a number of rack platform extenders, bits of wood or stuff that I fix to the framework to carry bulky items such as bags of cement. I use bits of wire to provide a temp attachment and its much easier with an open framework design.
#28
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Something like that should do it for you.
You need that sort of thing +/- maybe a little piece of bent metal extension to create a nub from the your seat post just above the BB to let the bottom/front of the rear fender attach on, replacing what on most bikes is the little bridge between the chain stays.
You will probably need to reposition the brake bridge tab on the fender. Amazing how good a little pop rivet is for that.
The P clamps already mentioned will let you connect the fender stays to your chain stays down near the rear hub.
That gives you support front, middle-ish (a little too far forward, but OK) and rear-ish.
Good luck.
You need that sort of thing +/- maybe a little piece of bent metal extension to create a nub from the your seat post just above the BB to let the bottom/front of the rear fender attach on, replacing what on most bikes is the little bridge between the chain stays.
You will probably need to reposition the brake bridge tab on the fender. Amazing how good a little pop rivet is for that.
The P clamps already mentioned will let you connect the fender stays to your chain stays down near the rear hub.
That gives you support front, middle-ish (a little too far forward, but OK) and rear-ish.
Good luck.
#29
Senior Member
Thanks to all!
I can't wait to work on it this weekend. I'll probably start tomorrow.
Oh, sorry for the thread hi-jack. I really don't mean to.
I can't wait to work on it this weekend. I'll probably start tomorrow.
Oh, sorry for the thread hi-jack. I really don't mean to.
#30
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In full rain gear? Nah. You may get a face spray, but the bigger issue for me is all of that non-breathing gear- I'd rather get a little wet in non- waterproof stuff, then sauna it up in all that.
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Do you do anything to bolster the attatchments of your fenders to your bike? For example, I heard that the front fender is attatched to the fork cross bar with a nylon tie. Did you add more zipties or use a bracket of some kind to make that point of attatchment more secure? Did you add zipties to reinforce the rubber brackets on your fork and seat stays?
#32
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Well, thanks to you folks I ordered a pair of SpeedEZ fenders for my MTB. Hoping the install goes well and will try to provide an update. Thanks again everybody.
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I finally got my full fenders! I think there's enough clearance in case I decide to get studs. Thanks everyone.
Last edited by Easy Peasy; 10-09-11 at 12:32 PM.
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Easy Peasy,
Studs are great and a little goes a long way on paved roads. You only need the high stud count nobbies if you plan on being out with more than 1/2" snow on the ground. There should be no problem fitting studded tires under those fenders.
-John
Studs are great and a little goes a long way on paved roads. You only need the high stud count nobbies if you plan on being out with more than 1/2" snow on the ground. There should be no problem fitting studded tires under those fenders.
-John
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