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Crankset PowerMeter Suggestions and Compatibility

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Crankset PowerMeter Suggestions and Compatibility

Old 01-29-20, 08:53 AM
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Crankset PowerMeter Suggestions and Compatibility

I'm looking for a dual-sided power meter that would be compatible with Shimano BB Press Fit SM-BB72-41B, the current crankset is a Shimano RS510 52/36.

Are there any options within the $500-$750 range that I could simply replace it with?

Some options I've considered but am unsure of the compatibility:
FSA Power2Max alloy
Stages dual-sided Ultegra
Pioneer dual-sided 105
4iiii dual sided 105
Maybe verve infocrank from powermeter city, they have it for $850 and if I could get their 10% promotion to work it'd be a stellar deal, I just don't know which option would be compatible, ex. what's a BCD? Is a 110 or a 130 correct? etc.

I'm also considering pedals and have found the Garmin Vector 3 dual for as little as $650, I see that is a bit of a steal, but basically all of the reviews tear it apart for reliability. In the past, I've used a Powertap G3 hub and currently use a FSA Power2Max alloy on my Emonda (this new power meter is for an Argon-8 E-117 TRI DISC). I'm used to extreme reliability and basically no issues with these options.

If you have any ideas and suggestions please throw them at me, in total, I'd like to replace the unbranded, old, Shimano RS510 52/36 with a new crankset and get a new dual-sided power meter that is compatible and for around $700.

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Old 01-29-20, 09:15 AM
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https://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...d%3AQuarq&nf=1

CC has a bunch of Quarqs on sale for $500-$600, depending on what crank length and look you want. You should be able to get chainrings too in about that price.
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Old 01-29-20, 09:17 AM
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It's a hollowtech crank, so yes the stages will fit. Personally, I would just get a non drive side. You won't get the same battery life with dual, and the dual information is interesting, but once you know you are 51%-49%, or 53%-47%, there is not much else to do with that information. I mean are you going to train your weak leg in the hope to bring it to 50-50? Stages had factory refurb 105 Gen III non drive side for sale at $199 not too long ago.
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Old 01-29-20, 09:31 AM
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My balance varies from 50/50 to 47/53 from ride to ride and within a ride, depending on cadence, fatigue, power, and others. That can be acceptable or render the numbers useless, depending on what the OP wants to do.
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Old 01-29-20, 09:35 AM
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Agreed on single-sided, because I have double-sided on one bike, and can't remember ever doing anything useful with the fact that I am either 52L/48R or 51L/49R every single day.

A word of warning on the Power2Max that comes with a freebie FSA Gossamer (if that is indeed the one in question) as those crankarms are like aluminum noodles-- they have a significant amount of flex in them, and they are also as heavy as anchors. I replaced my P2M with a Rotor IN2Power, and took over 250g off of the crankset. You can sometimes find the "older" single-sided IN2Power for cheap, but they're all 3D30 so you'd need new bearings pressed in.
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Old 01-29-20, 09:57 AM
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I'm seeing a lot of love for the single sided BUT I've only ever used dual sided systems and am very familiar with the data. Also, research has shown that your balances can be completely different at different efforts, which leads to further inaccuracies. For me personally, I do not care about L/R balance whatsoever, I care about knowing that the power is coming from both legs along the whole power curve.

Also, the Quraqs are a great idea, I've looked at them at length, but frankly do not know if they are compatible, what I have to buy to make them work, etc. I'm also interested in just picking up a Power2max spider and maybe an aluminum rotor crankset, but again, am not quite sure if it would be compatible.

I see a Quarq DFour91 which appears to be one of their latest offerings https://www.competitivecyclist.com/q...rank-arms-bb30
It has 177.5mm cranks though, could I buy this and switch out the cranks, then through a R8000 chainring on it? Any idea where I would find compatible cranks?
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Old 01-29-20, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
Agreed on single-sided, because I have double-sided on one bike, and can't remember ever doing anything useful with the fact that I am either 52L/48R or 51L/49R every single day.

A word of warning on the Power2Max that comes with a freebie FSA Gossamer (if that is indeed the one in question) as those crankarms are like aluminum noodles-- they have a significant amount of flex in them, and they are also as heavy as anchors. I replaced my P2M with a Rotor IN2Power, and took over 250g off of the crankset. You can sometimes find the "older" single-sided IN2Power for cheap, but they're all 3D30 so you'd need new bearings pressed in.
I have the P2M alloy currently on my road bike, to me personally, it doesn't feel terribly different from an old Ultegra I had on a previous bike, but I've read this before, and did want a bit of an upgrade this time. Also, the 2InPower is Sweet! Just a bit too rich for my blood.
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Old 01-29-20, 10:04 AM
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I got my single-sided Rotor IN2Power directly from Rotor USA (I'm suspecting NOS, that is: discontinued) for $400. It runs on a single AA battery in the spindle, and the battery lasts something like 400 hours. The double-sided Rotor power cranks are indeed $$$.

When I went from the Gossamer to the Rotor, it was like riding a completely different bike.
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Old 01-29-20, 10:49 AM
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Here's some reading if you're interested, FWIW there has been discussion of L-R accuracy issues inherent to the design of the Shimano Right crank arm spider. This could potentially affect 4iii, Stages and others not just the Shimano branded PMs, eg any pm built on a Shimano R crank arm.
https://gplama.com/2019/06/29/shiman...-power-meters/

That being said I'm happy with my single-sided 4iii and Stages L arms - are close enough to each other in accuracy work for my humble riding and training. For dual-sided have heard good things about Assioma Favero Pedals, Quark and P2M.
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Old 01-29-20, 12:53 PM
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SRM had DA options on clearance recently.
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Old 01-29-20, 01:14 PM
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I don't know why anyone would want to spend crazy money on SRM is beyond me. A magnet required....really? Hundreds of dollars just to have the recharge option. Stages, 4iiii, and basically all others have so much more capability.
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Old 01-29-20, 02:50 PM
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I read through the entirety of https://gplama.com/2019/06/29/shiman...-power-meters/ and am annoyed that the right tends to read around 5% lower in general, this could be quite problematic in a Zwift race... maybe I will go with power pedals...
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Old 01-29-20, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by firebird854 View Post
I read through the entirety of https://gplama.com/2019/06/29/shiman...-power-meters/ and am annoyed that the right tends to read around 5% lower in general, this could be quite problematic in a Zwift race... maybe I will go with power pedals...
I don't really have a comment to add. I'm just responding so I can put a tag on your delicious post and visit it again and again.
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Old 01-30-20, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by RChung View Post
I don't really have a comment to add. I'm just responding so I can put a tag on your delicious post and visit it again and again.
Haha, I know it's nitpicky, but if I were doing something in a real race that guaranteed -5% power at all times I'd be a little peeved.
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Old 01-30-20, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by firebird854 View Post
Haha, I know it's nitpicky, but if I were doing something in a real race that guaranteed -5% power at all times I'd be a little peeved.
If you're that worried about it, maybe the SRM makes more sense.
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Old 01-30-20, 08:38 AM
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It's a shame that SRAM bought Powertap & then immediatly discontinued the C1 chain ring & the $350 price point it sold at so that it wouldn't compete with their Quarq offerings at 2x the $$$

Fwiw: Lacing in a new hub may/may not be about the same cost & save all the troubles of crank compatibility. I for one like the idea of the meter not being a more-or-less "permanent" part of the bike. You can always keep the wheels for future bikes & the possibility of using q-rings/ossymetric/oval rings of different sizes is preserved, should you decide to ever try. (Which I suggest you do. They're awesome.)

My wife & I had a set of P1 pedals for our tandem. Neither one of us liked them. They worked fine but the SPD-SL/Look Keo road cleats is just something neither of us could stand...That & the battery life was terrible.
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Old 01-30-20, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by base2 View Post
It's a shame that SRAM bought Powertap & then immediatly discontinued the C1 chain ring & the $350 price point it sold at so that it wouldn't compete with their Quarq offerings at 2x the $$$

Fwiw: Lacing in a new hub may/may not be about the same cost & save all the troubles of crank compatibility. I for one like the idea of the meter not being a more-or-less "permanent" part of the bike. You can always keep the wheels for future bikes & the possibility of using q-rings/ossymetric/oval rings of different sizes is preserved, should you decide to ever try. (Which I suggest you do. They're awesome.)

My wife & I had a set of P1 pedals for our tandem. Neither one of us liked them. They worked fine but the SPD-SL/Look Keo road cleats is just something neither of us could stand...That & the battery life was terrible.
Did you use the C1? Very few people seemed happy with them.

Part of the problem with the hubs is that it disallows using the same PM on a wheel-off trainer, as is becoming popular, and isn't as permanent as you might hope with changing brakes, axles, tubeless, freehubs, and so on. Much of it depends on how many bikes you have and regularly ride. For me and my wife, we'd rather have two bikes with their own PMs and never worry about it, and if that means running Ultegra or 105 + PM instead of DA, that's a fine allocation of resources.
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Old 01-30-20, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug View Post
Did you use the C1? Very few people seemed happy with them.

Part of the problem with the hubs is that it disallows using the same PM on a wheel-off trainer, as is becoming popular, and isn't as permanent as you might hope with changing brakes, axles, tubeless, freehubs, and so on. Much of it depends on how many bikes you have and regularly ride. For me and my wife, we'd rather have two bikes with their own PMs and never worry about it, and if that means running Ultegra or 105 + PM instead of DA, that's a fine allocation of resources.
I suppose a wheel off trainer that is not smart would pose a concern. I always figured any Zwift compatible trainer would know power & speed on it's own. But it's not anything I've had cause to look in to.

All my bikes go on a standard Qubo Elite/Traveltrac dumb fluid trainer. Some times I use a dedicated "trainer" wheel I picked up from Craigslist. Other times, I just set a bike aside for a few months with a trainer tire mounted. It really depends on what the current state of my stable is.

I do use a C1 chain ring. The day before yesterday, in fact. It's on my Rolhoff touring bike. I used it with the dumb trainer, even. To do so, I pulled a random hub mounted speed sensor from a drawer in my garage, mated it to my Garmin with the GPS off & it worked just fine. Speed, power, cadence all a-ok. I really don't understand the issues internet people claim they have. Thus far, they (my wifes & mine) seem to work fine.

I still like the idea of selling a bike in the future & keeping the powermeter wheelset. Considering my wheels cost nearly as much as the bike.

All's I'm saying is: Swapping wheels between bikes should an unexpected events or a change in situation occur is a compelling option. Who would buy a bike minus the crankset if you want to keep the meter? Any ol' set of wheels makes it sellable.

As an example: My wifes Cervelo has my old 30mm carbon G3 wheels now because her Zipp 404's proved too unstable in crosswinds for her tastes. The swap was easy & available. As another: I'm re-hubbing an unsellable (repaired) carbon wheelset for gravel use right now. I can use that wheelset for any disc gravel bike in the future...whatever that bike may be. You can have that freedom too for little more than the cost of the meter ($599 +a wheel builders time.)

But, yeah, a dedicated gravel & dedicated road wheelset or similar arrangement does not always make sense unless, like me, you have parts laying around. A single crank based meter per bike is sensible in that regard. Especially if you are keeping the bike for a long time or intend to upgrade wheels or churn through rims regularly.

Last edited by base2; 01-30-20 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 01-30-20, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RChung View Post
I don't really have a comment to add. I'm just responding so I can put a tag on your delicious post and visit it again and again.
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Old 01-30-20, 12:09 PM
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For us, we want to be racing with the same PM as training, so the power sensor in the smart trainer isn't recorded.

As for selling... we don't really sell bikes, to another of your points. We keep them for a decade, so that's much less of a concern. And we have the old cranks that the bikes came with we could reinstall, and cheap cranks litter the shelves of bike shops where people wanted to change out the old FSA Gossamers or whatever.

Ah well, glad you're happy, but I don't see anything that nefarious in the demise of the C1. It never gained much tractions. Prices will continue to drop.
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Old 01-30-20, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug View Post
For us, we want to be racing with the same PM as training, so the power sensor in the smart trainer isn't recorded.

As for selling... we don't really sell bikes, to another of your points. We keep them for a decade, so that's much less of a concern. And we have the old cranks that the bikes came with we could reinstall, and cheap cranks litter the shelves of bike shops where people wanted to change out the old FSA Gossamers or whatever.

Ah well, glad you're happy, but I don't see anything that nefarious in the demise of the C1. It never gained much tractions. Prices will continue to drop.
Fair points indeed. Like you, I don't ever intend to sell any of my bikes. I do however value modular construction & the freedom it allows.

As to the C1, I don't see anything "nefarious" either. I think the price point was too low & people probably asked: "So low, what's wrong with it?" Then a few reports of water ingress or a cold solder joint or two probably caused a bad rep & that was all she wrote. Can't say I blame SRAM, it was redundant to their product line & likely had legacy costs & terrible margin at that peice point in relation to their other offerings. It was just a shame, that's all.

If the C1 ever goes south, I'll probably end up with an FSA Powerbox or similar 'cause nothing else is as suited to a Rolhoff equipped flat pedal touring bike. External bearing cup compatability with a Bushnell eccentric being the deciding factor. I drive by FSA's North America distribution hub daily. It wouldn't be hard to walk in with the bike in hand & ask them directly.
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Old 01-30-20, 01:25 PM
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So, I've been looking around, would DFour91 Power Meter Alloy Crank Arms - BB30 be compatible with my bike? I'm looking to upgrade the crankset in general, in my mind, I'd be able to take off the current chainrings and crank arms, add R8000 Ultegra chainrings, and this powermeter/crank arm combo, is this feasible? I'm I missing something?

It is currently using the following for BB and crankset:

Crankset: Shimano RS510 52/36 BB Shimano
BB: Press Fit SM-BB72-41B

Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 01-30-20, 01:38 PM
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No. BB30 will not fit an Argon.

You need GXP or BSA.
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Old 01-30-20, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
No. BB30 will not fit an Argon.

You need GXP or BSA.
Good to know, as someone who ignorantly rides bicycles without going through the effort of learning what components work how, this is quite useful.
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Old 01-31-20, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jadocs View Post
I don't know why anyone would want to spend crazy money on SRM is beyond me. A magnet required....really? Hundreds of dollars just to have the recharge option. Stages, 4iiii, and basically all others have so much more capability.
I have SRM cranks on all my bikes. They are accurate light, as far as power meters go and completely configurable. If I ever get a frame that has requires a 30 millimeter crank instead of a 24, I am covered. The magnet is a non issue. Both my Treks had holes down on the bottom bracket, so I just screwed them in. The reason they use a magnet is because of the improved accuracy of the data. Guys at the velodrome are still using the old, wired SRM units because they feel they are more accurate.
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