What happened here?
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I just did a front drop out to fat blade a few weeks ago. Here's a shot of my results. Andy
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Andy -- your dropout is a wider than your blade. I know people have done similar with the dropout smaller than the blade, but I'm thinking this might be too big of a mismatch in my case. Maybe I'll print out the drawing of the dropout and see what it looks like. It's only approximately 5mm smaller on each side, so maybe it won't be so bad.
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Another solution, although far less elegant IMO, is to reduce the stay's diameter with a second tube inserted into the larger portion of the stay. Much like what Bike Friday and Burley have done. Part way along the stay's length the overlapping joint between the big and smaller diameters will be placed.
I forget if this has been mentioned but one could also machine a plug for the stay to make it's end a solid. Then all sorts of shaping could be done with little concerns about structure. Andy
I forget if this has been mentioned but one could also machine a plug for the stay to make it's end a solid. Then all sorts of shaping could be done with little concerns about structure. Andy
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I did think about using the paragon plugs, but none of them fit.
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A lathe is a beautiful thing. Andy (borrowed from some guy in Australia)
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Stays are a weird shape, I should post a pic. They are only round for the last inch or so. I need to cut off a couple of inches.
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How about just build up the actual dropouts with weld and then grind/file it to whatever shape you need for a good insertion? The dropouts are nice and thick and can take plenty of heat. And if you don't like it can just grind it off again. Messing with the stays is more of a one-way street.
My first frame had 5mm dropouts into ~10mm holes. Probably a slightly smaller gap than what you have but I just filled it up with bronze and it's fine. The bronze is all in compression down there.
My first frame had 5mm dropouts into ~10mm holes. Probably a slightly smaller gap than what you have but I just filled it up with bronze and it's fine. The bronze is all in compression down there.
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I don't think anyone is picturing this correctly. If I understand correctly, the stay is a 25mm high oval and the dropout is a 16mm high flat plate. There is nothing that can be made on a lathe(round) that will adapt from one to the other. The only solution, that I can think of, would be to attach a "C" shaped larger tube section to the front of the dropout to make a hood for attaching the stay. The other option is to just find a different stay with a longer tapered section.
I had a similar problem with the flat mount on the aluminum frame that I just built. After cutting the stay to the proper length, the stay was higher than the 25mm hood on the dropout. I had to smash it in the vise to make it fit and the weld bead is still proud of the brake mounting surface.
I had a similar problem with the flat mount on the aluminum frame that I just built. After cutting the stay to the proper length, the stay was higher than the 25mm hood on the dropout. I had to smash it in the vise to make it fit and the weld bead is still proud of the brake mounting surface.
#34
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Here are a couple pics that kinda show what I did with the wide straight stays into a standard hooded dropout:
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I don't think anyone is picturing this correctly. If I understand correctly, the stay is a 25mm high oval and the dropout is a 16mm high flat plate. There is nothing that can be made on a lathe(round) that will adapt from one to the other. The only solution, that I can think of, would be to attach a "C" shaped larger tube section to the front of the dropout to make a hood for attaching the stay. The other option is to just find a different stay with a longer tapered section.
I'm considering 3 approaches.
I was thinking about using the paragon add-on hoods, but I don't think they are big enough. Also going back to the regular s-bend stays. Or fixturing up these stays and brazing on the mounts and see if I can get them to line up properly. Maybe fillet pro would keep the distortion down.
I really need to get my cnc mill working and make something myself.
I'll take some pictures.
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couple of pictures. Not the same dropouts I want to use, but very close to the same dimensions.
#37
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From the pics it looks like you plan to cut the stays on the BB side of the crimped flat mount for the brakes to convert to ISO mount?
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Yes, cut off the crimp. I probably would go with the flat mount dropout that isn't in stock though. The ISO dropout is approximately the same size as the flat mount dropout up where I would attach it to the stay.
I was looking at the normal S bend stay in comparison with these. The normal stays have a little more chain ring clearance. They are bent out at the dropout end, which is the main issue I have with them. And if I used the DR1102, it would mean the stays wouldn't be symmetric.
I was looking at the normal S bend stay in comparison with these. The normal stays have a little more chain ring clearance. They are bent out at the dropout end, which is the main issue I have with them. And if I used the DR1102, it would mean the stays wouldn't be symmetric.
#39
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If you use a regular s bend stay you can use the Paragon conical chainstay plugs between the dropout and stay the plugs make it easy to attach everything and don't look too bad when finished.
The Columbus stays are the only ones I have seen that have the 4-5inches of stay end run parallel to each other, to account for the flat mount.
What don't you like about the Columbus flat mount?
The Columbus stays are the only ones I have seen that have the 4-5inches of stay end run parallel to each other, to account for the flat mount.
What don't you like about the Columbus flat mount?