Bottom Bracket Tool for 1 Piece Crank
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
Bottom Bracket Tool for 1 Piece Crank
Attached pictures show the NDS of a one piece crank on a beater bike. Do I need a special tool to hold the ring with the curved slot as I lock it with the nut?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,093
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4209 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times
in
2,315 Posts
The ring with the curved slot is a lock washer. It's ID hole has a tab that engages with a slot on the BB shaft (or the arms) to keep this part from turning when the lock nut is worked on. But sometimes that tab is unable to hold the lock washer in place and it does turn with the nut. The solution is to replace the washer with one that has a good tab. You can see the shaft's (arm's) slot at 12:00 in the second photo. Also at about 2:00 is the cone's notch that when moved by a poker/small screwdriver tip will effect the bearing adjustment. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
The ring with the curved slot is a lock washer. It's ID hole has a tab that engages with a slot on the BB shaft (or the arms) to keep this part from turning when the lock nut is worked on. But sometimes that tab is unable to hold the lock washer in place and it does turn with the nut. The solution is to replace the washer with one that has a good tab. You can see the shaft's (arm's) slot at 12:00 in the second photo. Also at about 2:00 is the cone's notch that when moved by a poker/small screwdriver tip will effect the bearing adjustment. Andy
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,837
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Elite Disc, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Liked 741 Times
in
430 Posts
The (sole?) advantage of those BBs is that you don't need any special tools to work on them. Most of the time an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver, and occasionally a hammer, will do the trick.
Likes For andrewclaus:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,093
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4209 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times
in
2,315 Posts
These one piece cranks/BBs are very rugged given the generally low grade of steel and construction they are often offered with. Like a real to real tape decks would have sounded amazing (compared to other analog recordings) if enhanced with the same level of technology as cassette decks had in the late 1970s, if these cranks were made to the same tolerances and materials that modern types are they would last nearly forever.
I've had the pleasure to overhaul more then a few bikes made 100ish years ago that have really well made examples of one piece cranks. It is too bad that most current 1 piece cranks are so crude in comparison. Andy
I've had the pleasure to overhaul more then a few bikes made 100ish years ago that have really well made examples of one piece cranks. It is too bad that most current 1 piece cranks are so crude in comparison. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#6
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,790
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3590 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
A big adjustable wrench will loosen the locknut. Be aware that it is a left-hand thread, so clockwise to loosen. Same with the cone. And if you're doing an overhaul (remove crank, clean out old grease, replace old balls/retainers, repack with new grease), remove the non-drive side pedal first, or you won't be able to fully remove the crank.
Likes For JohnDThompson:
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
A big adjustable wrench will loosen the locknut. Be aware that it is a left-hand thread, so clockwise to loosen. Same with the cone. And if you're doing an overhaul (remove crank, clean out old grease, replace old balls/retainers, repack with new grease), remove the non-drive side pedal first, or you won't be able to fully remove the crank.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
These one piece cranks/BBs are very rugged given the generally low grade of steel and construction they are often offered with. Like a real to real tape decks would have sounded amazing (compared to other analog recordings) if enhanced with the same level of technology as cassette decks had in the late 1970s, if these cranks were made to the same tolerances and materials that modern types are they would last nearly forever.
I've had the pleasure to overhaul more then a few bikes made 100ish years ago that have really well made examples of one piece cranks. It is too bad that most current 1 piece cranks are so crude in comparison. Andy
I've had the pleasure to overhaul more then a few bikes made 100ish years ago that have really well made examples of one piece cranks. It is too bad that most current 1 piece cranks are so crude in comparison. Andy