stupid seat height question
#1
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stupid seat height question
ive read about haveing foot at 6 oclock and ya leg should be straight .but it dont say do i do this with or with out shoes?
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Hell no you don't want your leg straight. With shoes, they say you want a 35-40 degree knee angle. But all the formulas to adjust it are only starting points. My saddle height is about 2cm lower than it's "supposed" to be.
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I like the heel to pedal method for starting point. With pedal at 6 o'clock you should just be able to reach it with your heel with leg fully extended:
https://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/tec...road-bike.html
But as mentioned formulas are all starting points and you could read stuff for days on fitting:
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...ard-can-it-be/
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...d-can-it-be-2/
https://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/tec...road-bike.html
But as mentioned formulas are all starting points and you could read stuff for days on fitting:
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...ard-can-it-be/
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...d-can-it-be-2/
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Yeah, heel to pedal for me. With shoes.
fully extend leg so heel touches pedal. Now ride. Your leg is at the correct angle at the 6oclock position.
its worked for every bike I've set up of mine, family, or kids i train with. Foolproof...so far.
fully extend leg so heel touches pedal. Now ride. Your leg is at the correct angle at the 6oclock position.
its worked for every bike I've set up of mine, family, or kids i train with. Foolproof...so far.
#5
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Seat height is also a function of hamstring flexibility. What is said above applies to cyclists with average-to-high flexibility. If your hamstrings are not as flexible, setting your seat too high will put too much strain on your hamstrings, which might lead to tears in the future.
#6
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+ 1 for heel as starting point.
then adjust 1/16” at a time to dial it in if needed.
then adjust 1/16” at a time to dial it in if needed.
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Maximum height is however high you can go without your hips rocking.
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Full cycling attire. Yes, that means shoes.
Heel on pedal.
Pedal at 6:00.
Very slight bend in knee ... so slight you'd hardly notice it, but leg not perfectly straight, and knee definitely not locked straight.
That's a good starting point. You may want to make tiny adjustments from there.
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Not a stupid question at all.
I have been using the heel method 4+ decades. With my knee issues I want the seat as high as possible. I stretch regularly and if my hamstring gets irritated I lower it from the initial method.
(Did I get 10 posts yet?)
I have been using the heel method 4+ decades. With my knee issues I want the seat as high as possible. I stretch regularly and if my hamstring gets irritated I lower it from the initial method.
(Did I get 10 posts yet?)
#13
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I've always used the Achilles tendon as my guide. If it hurts, my saddle is too high. This is the first I've heard of the heel method. I'll give it a try.
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THat heel thing...leg straight with crank arm extended down the line of the seat tube not 6 o'clock. Call it 5 o'clock...but that is your max extension. Roll foot back to six o'clock and your knee slightly bends. A less precise way to set the seat is stand next to the bike and set top of seat at your hip. Then get on and do the heel at 5 o'clock etc.
ill do some of this with setting up a spin bike for someone unless they have measurements which typically they do not.
ill do some of this with setting up a spin bike for someone unless they have measurements which typically they do not.
#15
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The heel method, as mention, is a fine starting point. However in my case, I can barely touch the pedal with my heel when the saddle is as my prefered height. Perhaps in part because I have size US14 feet, and the cleat is probably 8" from my heel.
There is no "correct saddle height." You ride what's comfortable. My saddle is ~1.5" higher than would be recommended by a test (the straddle a level and mark the wall, specifically) but so long as the knees don't hurt and the hips ain't rockin', it's the right height.
There is no "correct saddle height." You ride what's comfortable. My saddle is ~1.5" higher than would be recommended by a test (the straddle a level and mark the wall, specifically) but so long as the knees don't hurt and the hips ain't rockin', it's the right height.
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I used to ride near some office buildings, and could ride through their parking lot and look at myself on the bike as I rode.past their big reflective windows, ... was interesting to see once in a while
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The heel method, as mention, is a fine starting point. However in my case, I can barely touch the pedal with my heel when the saddle is as my prefered height. Perhaps in part because I have size US14 feet, and the cleat is probably 8" from my heel.
There is no "correct saddle height." You ride what's comfortable. My saddle is ~1.5" higher than would be recommended by a test (the straddle a level and mark the wall, specifically) but so long as the knees don't hurt and the hips ain't rockin', it's the right height.
There is no "correct saddle height." You ride what's comfortable. My saddle is ~1.5" higher than would be recommended by a test (the straddle a level and mark the wall, specifically) but so long as the knees don't hurt and the hips ain't rockin', it's the right height.
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#20
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When I was in the Army in Germany in '67-9, I had a buddy who was a photography nut. I'd drive him through the local small towns with his telephoto out the window, taking photos of young women. They all rode bikes, and they all had great legs. I wonder if that's changed.
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#21
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When I was in the Army in Germany in '67-9, I had a buddy who was a photography nut. I'd drive him through the local small towns with his telephoto out the window, taking photos of young women. They all rode bikes, and they all had great legs. I wonder if that's changed.
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I thought it was with pedal st 12:00 and with pinky toe on pedal was the preferred technique?
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