Ironman Information Thread
#126
Me duelen las nalgas
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Regarding my August post, I've since replaced the original Suntour 42T chainring with a 39T Vuelta SE Plus. Works fine, although I had to make several adjustments.
The bigger drop from 52/39 and vice versa resulted in lots of chain drops. So I had to tweak the front derailleur very carefully to get smooth shifting without dropping the chain. This is crucial to me because I rely on the front derailleur shifts for our roller coaster routes.
And I tried combinations of the original 52/42 chainring with the SunRace 13-25 freewheel, which worked well. I really liked the spacing.
But I hated the spacing with the 52/39 chainring combo and SunRace 13-25 freewheel. Too much double shifting was needed to find the sweet spot. On climbs it was costing me momentum, fiddling around with shifting both levers.
So I switched back to the original Suntour 13-24 freewheel with the 52/39 chainring combo. Not quite as much oomph for steep climbs with dead legs, but the spacing is very good. And the 39/24 combo has been fine for our local hills as long as my legs are fresh.
The bigger drop from 52/39 and vice versa resulted in lots of chain drops. So I had to tweak the front derailleur very carefully to get smooth shifting without dropping the chain. This is crucial to me because I rely on the front derailleur shifts for our roller coaster routes.
And I tried combinations of the original 52/42 chainring with the SunRace 13-25 freewheel, which worked well. I really liked the spacing.
But I hated the spacing with the 52/39 chainring combo and SunRace 13-25 freewheel. Too much double shifting was needed to find the sweet spot. On climbs it was costing me momentum, fiddling around with shifting both levers.
So I switched back to the original Suntour 13-24 freewheel with the 52/39 chainring combo. Not quite as much oomph for steep climbs with dead legs, but the spacing is very good. And the 39/24 combo has been fine for our local hills as long as my legs are fresh.
Has anyone replaced the inner chain ring from the usual 42T to something smaller? I'm not sure whether it's feasible or cost effective compared with a compact crankset.
I've been trying for almost three months, with lots of HIIT and hill climbs in training, but just can't get along with the stock 42T front and 24 rear cog. Saturday's hilly ride was pretty close to the last straw. I was exhausted by the end of a 64 mile ride with about 2,600 feet of climbing and could barely mash my way up -- walking would have been faster. Not a huge climb for some folks but it's my limit.
I get along much better with the 30/40/50 triple and 13-28 on my Univega, even though the bike is heavier than the Ironman. I feel energized rather than wiped out after a long ride on the same route.
I did get a 13-25 SunRace freewheel, but I doubt there will be a huge difference for climbing. I could try a 28T maximum freewheel, but I'd need to give up indexed shifting.
Seems like changing the smaller chain ring would be the best solution.
I've been trying for almost three months, with lots of HIIT and hill climbs in training, but just can't get along with the stock 42T front and 24 rear cog. Saturday's hilly ride was pretty close to the last straw. I was exhausted by the end of a 64 mile ride with about 2,600 feet of climbing and could barely mash my way up -- walking would have been faster. Not a huge climb for some folks but it's my limit.
I get along much better with the 30/40/50 triple and 13-28 on my Univega, even though the bike is heavier than the Ironman. I feel energized rather than wiped out after a long ride on the same route.
I did get a 13-25 SunRace freewheel, but I doubt there will be a huge difference for climbing. I could try a 28T maximum freewheel, but I'd need to give up indexed shifting.
Seems like changing the smaller chain ring would be the best solution.
#127
Sunshine
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Thought I would toss up some info here- probably not useful to most, but perhaps helpful to someone down the line while googling.
Late 80s- largest size frame(63/64cm depending on how its measured) weights are...
FRAME- 2210g 4.88#
FORK- 790g 1.74#
So 3000g total for frame and fork. Thats 6.61# for those who dont speak metric.
Late 80s- largest size frame(63/64cm depending on how its measured) weights are...
FRAME- 2210g 4.88#
FORK- 790g 1.74#
So 3000g total for frame and fork. Thats 6.61# for those who dont speak metric.
#129
Sunshine
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#130
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Somewhere in the forums, and the photos have probably disappeared, there is a direct comparison of a Centurion Semi-Pro with a Stanyan. Very close in appearance and features. I gave the nod to the Semi-Pro, for the quill stem...
#131
Senior Member
My 87 Miami Vice biopace chainrings are kinda wobbling. Is that a chainring or crankarm problem? How do I fix it?
#133
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My 85 Ironman has a suntour sprint crankset. Original owner says he bought it this way. Maybe it was replaced in the bike shop? It's weird because the chainrings are a similar dark grey to pictures of the stock chainrings I've seen on the internet. SN is N5E512.
#135
Me duelen las nalgas
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Then switch the left crank to suit the position of the right.
Unfortunately I watched that video after I'd already reinstalled the right crank/chainrings so I just left it as-is, with a tiny bit of wobble.
#136
Me duelen las nalgas
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BTW, since some of us occasionally ask about the largest tire that will fit a factory stock Ironman, here's one more data point/anecdote:
Continental Ultra Sport 2 in 700x25 fit fine on my '89 Ironman Expert, but I wouldn't push it to 700x28 in this tire, and Contis tend to run a bit smaller than spec in some models.
On the back, there's about 1/8" clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the brake arm crossover. That's the tight spot.
On the front there's 1/4" clearance between the top of the tire and bottom of the head tube. Probably enough room for most 700x28 tires. But I wouldn't care to run a wider tire in front than in back.
The 700x25 Ultra Sport 2 appears only very slightly larger than the 700x23 Schwalbe One V-Guards I just replaced. The overall ride is very similar, but the larger Conti's tame the road chatter better on chipseal. They feel slightly squirmy on fast curves, but I don't know whether the tires are broken in yet, or whether it's just pushing the capability of the narrow Araya CTL-370 rims, which originally came with much narrower tires (700x18, I think?).
Loved the Schwalbes and wanted a set in 700x25, but they're too pricey. And the rear tire was nicked and cut pretty badly from glass and broken slate on my rural rides (housing construction, lots of debris falling off trucks, and roadside bars with patrons smashing glass everywhere). I continued riding the rear Schwalbe for a couple of months despite the cuts, but a friend who stopped to chat last week gave my tire the stinkeye and said I should replace it. If it was that obvious, it's overdue. The front tire still had some life left. I got 1,700 miles out of the rear, and could probably ride another 300-500 on the front. Not bad. Tough tires too, for lightweight racing quality -- the thin puncture shield held the cuts together and only the worst of three fairly serious cuts was starting to avulse through the puncture shield.
***
Update 2/26/18: After riding the Conti Ultra Sport 2 in 700x25 for a few weeks -- about 8 rides, just over 300 miles -- I wouldn't want to try 700x28 on the Araya CTL-370 rims. The 700x25 Ultra Sport 2 roll comfortably straight ahead but feel a bit squirmy on fast turns. I can also feel a bit more wind resistance from strong cross winds. It's not a huge factor and probably won't matter if you're not turning at racing speeds. But these CTL-370 rims were originally fitted with 700x18 to 700x20 tires. So 700x23 is probably the sweet spot for overall performance and comfort, including turning.
Otherwise, so far, so good with the Ultra Sport 2. Next time I'd get 700x23.
Continental Ultra Sport 2 in 700x25 fit fine on my '89 Ironman Expert, but I wouldn't push it to 700x28 in this tire, and Contis tend to run a bit smaller than spec in some models.
On the back, there's about 1/8" clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the brake arm crossover. That's the tight spot.
On the front there's 1/4" clearance between the top of the tire and bottom of the head tube. Probably enough room for most 700x28 tires. But I wouldn't care to run a wider tire in front than in back.
The 700x25 Ultra Sport 2 appears only very slightly larger than the 700x23 Schwalbe One V-Guards I just replaced. The overall ride is very similar, but the larger Conti's tame the road chatter better on chipseal. They feel slightly squirmy on fast curves, but I don't know whether the tires are broken in yet, or whether it's just pushing the capability of the narrow Araya CTL-370 rims, which originally came with much narrower tires (700x18, I think?).
Loved the Schwalbes and wanted a set in 700x25, but they're too pricey. And the rear tire was nicked and cut pretty badly from glass and broken slate on my rural rides (housing construction, lots of debris falling off trucks, and roadside bars with patrons smashing glass everywhere). I continued riding the rear Schwalbe for a couple of months despite the cuts, but a friend who stopped to chat last week gave my tire the stinkeye and said I should replace it. If it was that obvious, it's overdue. The front tire still had some life left. I got 1,700 miles out of the rear, and could probably ride another 300-500 on the front. Not bad. Tough tires too, for lightweight racing quality -- the thin puncture shield held the cuts together and only the worst of three fairly serious cuts was starting to avulse through the puncture shield.
***
Update 2/26/18: After riding the Conti Ultra Sport 2 in 700x25 for a few weeks -- about 8 rides, just over 300 miles -- I wouldn't want to try 700x28 on the Araya CTL-370 rims. The 700x25 Ultra Sport 2 roll comfortably straight ahead but feel a bit squirmy on fast turns. I can also feel a bit more wind resistance from strong cross winds. It's not a huge factor and probably won't matter if you're not turning at racing speeds. But these CTL-370 rims were originally fitted with 700x18 to 700x20 tires. So 700x23 is probably the sweet spot for overall performance and comfort, including turning.
Otherwise, so far, so good with the Ultra Sport 2. Next time I'd get 700x23.
Last edited by canklecat; 02-26-18 at 04:29 PM. Reason: update
#138
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Anybody know what's going on with the Vintage Centurion website? I think it's been down a while.
By the way, this guy's trying to sell an '86 as an '85, right?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beautiful-1...EAAOSwiqFadPFf
By the way, this guy's trying to sell an '86 as an '85, right?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beautiful-1...EAAOSwiqFadPFf
#139
Me duelen las nalgas
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Most of the site is archived via the Wayback Machine, minus the photos and graphics. Unfortunately the images appear to have dropped off Google cache.
#140
Senior Member
Well its flesliders website, you could pm him.
#141
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Here's an Ironman at a decent price...athough it's been bastardized a bit!
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/d...517316815.html
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/d...517316815.html
Last edited by 67tony; 03-28-18 at 02:31 PM.
#142
Senior Member
Here's an Ironman at a decent price...lthough it's been bastardized a bit!
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/d...517316815.html
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/d...517316815.html
#143
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Good catch. Thanks. I've corrected the initial post.
Robbie, here is a pic of the lower seat tube decal on my '89 Expert. Slight wording difference from what you posted in the specs on page one. A different variation?
There is also a sticker under the down tube, near the bottom bracket. I'm presuming this would only be for the USA market?
There is also a sticker under the down tube, near the bottom bracket. I'm presuming this would only be for the USA market?
#144
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I just acquired a 1988 Ironman Master yellow fade. Bike is “COMPLETELY”original including tires and tape. Obviously tires need to be replaced but the bike looks otherwise new. Really excited to take a ride and post pics. It was bought from the original owner who had it under cover in his garage and obviously loved it
Last edited by nesposito; 03-09-18 at 10:19 PM.
#145
Senior Member
I just acquired a 1988 Ironman Master yellow fade. Bike is “COMPLETELY”original including tires and tape. Obviously tires need to be replaced but the bike looks otherwise new. Really excited to take a ride and post pics. It was bought from the original owner who had it under cover in his garage and obviously loved it
#146
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I just acquired a 1988 Ironman Master yellow fade. Bike is “COMPLETELY”original including tires and tape. Obviously tires need to be replaced but the bike looks otherwise new. Really excited to take a ride and post pics. It was bought from the original owner who had it under cover in his garage and obviously loved it
I did do a nice and cold 42 miles today on an '89.
#147
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Yes. it is the one from the Phoenix Craigslist ad and it's nicer in person. I am trying to upload some photos but can't seem to get them to upload. Any recommendations?