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Columbus Steer tube length and butting.

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Columbus Steer tube length and butting.

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Old 02-08-19, 10:01 AM
  #1  
gearbasher
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Columbus Steer tube length and butting.

Years ago I got a good deal on an NOS frame with TSX tubing. The only problem was the fork (matching color) was for a larger frame. I need to thread and cut down the steer tube to fit. Then I got to thinking about the butting and it interfering with the stem. I have an SLX fork that is the exact size I need for this frame. So I did some measuring. The fork that is the proper length has a 175 mm steer tube and the butted section starts at 65 mm above the fork crown race. Giving 110 mm before a stem will bottom out. The fork I want to cut down has a 225 mm steer tube and the butted section starts 75 mm above the fork crown race. So, if I cut it down to 175 mm, I will only have 100 mm before the stem will bottom out. This is not a problem for me, because I use only Cinelli 1A stems and I keep them at their maximum height. Also, a 1A stem can only be inserted 95 mm if you account for the headset lock nut. But, in case the bike doesn't stay with me, I don't want the next person to have trouble.
The question is: Am I just being too anal and It won't be a problem if I cut it to the length I need? (Whats 10 mm?) Or, should I cut it 10 mm longer and use a spacer in the headset?

Thanks for any input.
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Old 02-08-19, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gearbasher
Years ago I got a good deal on an NOS frame with TSX tubing. The only problem was the fork (matching color) was for a larger frame. I need to thread and cut down the steer tube to fit. Then I got to thinking about the butting and it interfering with the stem. I have an SLX fork that is the exact size I need for this frame. So I did some measuring. The fork that is the proper length has a 175 mm steer tube and the butted section starts at 65 mm above the fork crown race. Giving 110 mm before a stem will bottom out. The fork I want to cut down has a 225 mm steer tube and the butted section starts 75 mm above the fork crown race. So, if I cut it down to 175 mm, I will only have 100 mm before the stem will bottom out. This is not a problem for me, because I use only Cinelli 1A stems and I keep them at their maximum height. Also, a 1A stem can only be inserted 95 mm if you account for the headset lock nut. But, in case the bike doesn't stay with me, I don't want the next person to have trouble.
The question is: Am I just being too anal and It won't be a problem if I cut it to the length I need? (Whats 10 mm?) Or, should I cut it 10 mm longer and use a spacer in the headset?

Thanks for any input.
An old mechanics trick is to write down the irregularity of a frame on a piece of paper and put it in the frame. Typically this was when some English BB threads were bunged up on one side, and the BB was rethreaded to Italian - so the cups wouldn't match.

I typically don't like to see a big spacer on a headset, since you can get the expander wedge in a threaded position. If your Cinelli 1A stem can max out and still have the wedge below the threads, I think you're ok - those stems aren't very tall at all, right?

At any rate, that's some great forward thinking on your part.
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Old 02-09-19, 05:08 AM
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I didn't think head tubes were butted. I would think interaction with the threading would be the potential issue.
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Old 02-09-19, 06:09 AM
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cutting a lot of threads, like more than 1/2 inch can be a tough time consuming job. Most cutters you see in bike shops are more for chasing and cleaning up threads or only putting a turn or two on. For something that requires more than a 1/2 inch your better off looking for a frame builder or a machine shop that can do the work.

I seldom cut a steerer the exact length of the headset, especially is there is less than inch to cut off.
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Old 02-09-19, 07:04 AM
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I have a Park threader. Gonna do the job myself. I'm going to just cut enough threads for a Campy Record headset. I've done facing and chasing on a number of frames. This is going to be my first try at adding threads. "No guts, no glory."
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Old 02-09-19, 10:48 AM
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I'm using a modern Record headset. The frame came with 130 mm spacing, so I'm going 10 speed on it also.
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Old 02-09-19, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
I didn't think head tubes were butted. I would think interaction with the threading would be the potential issue.
Steerers are, which can be an issue with smaller frames and slammed stems.
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Old 02-10-19, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
cutting a lot of threads, like more than 1/2 inch can be a tough time consuming job. Most cutters you see in bike shops are more for chasing and cleaning up threads or only putting a turn or two on. For something that requires more than a 1/2 inch your better off looking for a frame builder or a machine shop that can do the work.

I seldom cut a steerer the exact length of the headset, especially is there is less than inch to cut off.
With a hacksaw it takes about 30 seconds.
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Old 02-10-19, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Wileyone
With a hacksaw it takes about 30 seconds.
@Wileyone, you cut threads with a hacksaw? Damn you're good, most of us have to use a cutting die!
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Old 02-10-19, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cannonride15
@Wileyone, you cut threads with a hacksaw? Damn you're good, most of us have to use a cutting die!
Lol my mistake. Should have dug a little deeper.
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Old 02-12-19, 02:50 PM
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So, since it was snowing today, I decided to work on the frame.
First, I reamed and faced the head tube. That paint chip on the down tube was there from shipping. Already have a decal to cover it.



While I had the cutting oil out, I chased and faced the BB shell. I only faced the drive side since I'm going to be using a Campy square taper cartridge BB. The entire shell was chromed. I had to file the chrome off the face before I used the cutter.



Last edited by gearbasher; 02-12-19 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 02-12-19, 02:56 PM
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I ran a tap through the bottle bosses, adjusters and the rear hanger. Only took a pic of the hanger:




Cut the steer tube threads:



I cut just enough threads for the headset. Maybe three/four threads before it bottoms out. I cut the steerer tube at the point where the entire slotted section of a Cinelli 1A stem is below the last thread when the stem is raised to the max. line. I can put 13-15 mm of spacers in. This is going to be my long distance bike. So, I want a slightly more upright position. My back ain't what it used to be,



No pics. But, I cut the crown race seat and honed the seat tube. My only mistake was losing some paint on the fork crown. I wrapped it in rags, but I guess it wasn't enough.

Hopefully, this will be the last frame I ever have to prep. And, I'll never do a silver bike again. With my eyesight, I couldn't tell if it was paint or steel I was seeing while facing the head tube.

Last edited by gearbasher; 02-12-19 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 02-12-19, 05:05 PM
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Very nice. I miss having the opportunity to do this type of work.
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