dualresponse

..as opposed to a new frame/ fork! Bahdummmm!!!

Just kidding, and I am hoping I'm posting in right forum. Basically, I'm respraying 1985 schwinn cimarron. In auto paint store, they sell 2 oz. and up in paint quantities. I couldn't imagine needing a quart, or do I? How much should I have them mix up? I'm also going to ask here, just throwing it out there, does anyone know paint code for schwinn forest green?

Thanks in advance.
Ron

Jon T

FWIW, about 35 years ago I rattle-canned an old Schwinn Varsity. It took not quite 2 of the large, standard-size rattle cans.
Jon

repechage

assuming not thinned already, 4-6 fl oz depending on, your skill, and spray system.
Preval, touch up spraygun... more if you have a bigger syphon feed with a quart jar below, buy a half pint.
Buy a can to store reduced paint.

Think about how to attack the work, I start with the bottom bracket, between and under, over the chainstays, bridge, then the seat cluster, back of the seat tube, undersides of the tubes and stays before the tops, watch runs, depending on the paint type, sometimes best to leave till after dries and fix. think about the tight spaces where overspray is of little concern, get those covered, main tube coats get the attention.
"fish eyes" are a warning of an oil contaminated surface.

Test hang the frame and see if you can control it... secret tip, buy a 4cm 10x1 metric bolt for the dropout and thread that in, a good neutral place to grab, keeps the threads clean too.
Spray the fork first, just as a warm up for technique.

Note, primer is more forgiving than color or clear. Clear is the most treacherous.

Mind your ambient temp, ref the paint rec's, often different reducers are noted for different temperatures.

oh, some colors need more to provide good coverage, yellow is one of those needs more colors.

dualresponse

^Thanks repechage!

I was planning on using one of the smaller mini campbell hausfield? 8 oz type gravity feed guns I have. It has worked well for small projects (guitars/ etc) and can get around some curves and get into relatively tight spaces. I was thinking single stage, but the original paint looks metallic, which will be new for me. I've heard go thin on metallic so the metalflake doesn't pool, but it will be new.. Shooting a bike frame is also new to me. I figured I'd learn the ropes shooting primer. The 4-6 oz. really helps. The metallic paints are expensive! I did not want to buy a quart or something.

Thanks again for the detailed advice.
Ron

dualresponse

I recently repainted a garden tractor using rattle cans because I was too lazy to clean my gun. I am always amazed at what a good job you can get, especially if you wet sand afterwards. Then I inevitably try to shoot clear and screw it up !

cudak888 

I can relate to this with any spray can I've ever held in my hand - thanks for the laugh

-Kurt

Doug Fattic 

I use about 2 oz per coat and almost always lay on 2 coats per type of paint. This varies depending on the viscosity of the paint. I put on at least 2 coats of primer but sometimes more. I have a number of different paint guns but in most cases I use a 1.3mm nozzle. When I have taught rookies how to paint they usually require 1 and a half more volume of paint then I use because they aren't as precise spraying the paint exactly where it should be. While spraying sandable primer is a good place to start, you might instead begin with clear lacquer thinner that evaporates quickly to get the hang of it.

So using my beginner formula you will need about 6 oz of polyurethane enamel (where I would use 4) to put down 2 coats of color. If it is a basecoat/clear coat system you will need at least 3 coats of color and maybe more. This kind of paint is a little thinner and as a result you will use more paint. On top of this will go another 2 coats of intermediate clear that decals can be applied to and finally after that is dried and sanded another 2 coats of final clear.

Putting on the final clears is by far the hardest and most challenging and requires the most coordination and skill to be successful. All the layers underneath can be sanded and adjusted. Actually so can the top clear be sanded and buffed out if you get a run. If you have real trouble with the final clears you can always have someone like me do that.

dualresponse

Thanks all! The advice, particularly quantities really helps. I've had a heck of a time trying to find a color match. I've got the color down to about two samples, and depending on price, might get 2 oz of both, and shoot them for comparison...

So then that brings up DECALS!!! An ebay seller says he might have some gold cimarron waterset decals in about 2-3 months. I was originally planning on shooting one stage to not have to mess with clear (I've done enough wetsanding in my life- believe me!) - however, I'm thinking the decals might require the clear overcoat...

So that brings up several more questions...

1. do the decals require the clear overcoat?
2. If I go two stage, can I paint it now, and clear coat the second stage in two months or so?
3. Can I paint single stage, and clear coat it later? (paint guy said it might not adhere)...

I used to paint cars. I used to paint guitars. I used to paint houses. I can paint, I just can't remember all the details (probably b/c all the fumes ) viscous cycle....

Before pic (from about a week or two ago):

Unca_Sam

No, I don't have the color code.

When I touched up my frame, the local PPG auto paint dealer was patient enough to humor my request and match an average of the paint color my bike was. Get Meguairs ultimate compound if you don't have some and clean up your paint for a place to match your new paint.

I'm sure that you'll have an auto paint dealer versed in matching color for collision and restoration work. The trick is if they'll work with you.

As for one stage or two stage, I don't think the paint cares as long as its clean and blemish free. I recently read about a restoration auto paint shop that allows months before wet sanding for the next coat, ostensibly for harder paint and an award winning finish.

dualresponse

Thanks. The paint store said they couldn't get a match on the color b/c there was not a flat enough surface to get a read, but I bet if they took an average, that might just do it.

Cyclist753

FWIW I use a Binks touch up gun and compressor set at 30lbs to paint RC model airplane parts and for 'resto' work on my antique cars. I can't imagine using more than 0.5 to 1 pint of paint which you mix with a reducer/hardener. To get a paint match you might try removing the paint with a solvent then applying that paint to a flat surface. Otherwise, just thumb through the color chip books and get as close as you can. Please post some pictures 'before' and 'after'!

dualresponse

Thanks- yeah. I will post pics if it looks "good" If it doesn't turn out so good, I will post pics from 30 feet.

Unca_Sam

My auto paint place had a binder full of chips. Yours didn't?

Doug Fattic 

Just for context I’ve painted hundreds (probably thousands) of bicycle frames since the middle 70’s. If you want a top quality looking finish you will be wet sanding and clear coating even if you choose to use single stage paint. Decals last much longer and look much better under clears (and by clears I mean multiple clears with sanding in between).

You do NOT want to wait to clear later after applying a 2-stage color for several reasons. 1st, there is a very short window of time that the clear adheres best to the base color coat. And 2nd, base coat paint is very fragile and should not be touched not only because that might damage it but also the oils on your hands from handling might interfere with the clear.

Here is the sequence you want to use. 1st apply 2 or 3 coats of primer. I like to use House of Kolor because I can choose/mix the primer color that is similar to the top coat color. I sand the primer and in some cases apply more if I have used body putty. 2nd I like to apply a sealer next for several reasons including that it helps the paint stick better and gives a uniform undercoat color. This is time sensitive so the color has to go on between and hour and 2 hours later. Whether I am using a single or 2 stage paint I’ll put a clear or clears on top of the color. This serves as a sanding base for more astonishing looking clears to be later applied. After your decals are applied then if you want them to look really good you will paint many layers of clear over them and perhaps sanding some between. In any case after the clears have hardened you will wet sand them so they blend into your 1st clears. In fact you will be wet sanding everything at this stage. Finally you will apply 2 coats of final clear over the whole frame. By using thinned out 2 coats you are less likely to overspray (for those listening in to our conversation, overspray is when the paint looks dull because it didn’t fully wet out).

Your primer color will probably effect your top coat color as well as how many color coats you apply. If exact color is that important to you, your color testing should be done over primer painted tubes. However painters that don’t make the effort to wet sand between coats and bury decals in clear get pretty crappy results anyway so an exact color match won’t be noticed. You know how to paint so you can avoid the problems that come with hardest part people get wrong – which is uneven paint application. You might as well make your job look really good by doing the extra steps rather than have your frame look mediocre or worse because you didn’t do them.

squirtdad

what is prep plan.....

going to bare metal is the best and any little bit of old paint you miss will show up

acid etch primer
sandable primer
color coats
clear coats

Chuckk

I did both these bikes with the same three large rattle cans of Rustoleum - primer, red, and clear.
The Grandis was spot sanded while I had to sand blast the Sannino.


That's the way things are when you're a bottom feeder.

Jeff Wills

FWIW: I found a thread on the CABE when I was searching for a Flamingo Superior. It's a whole 'nother level of crazy, but the end product is gorgeous:

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/ho...-finish.87859/

dualresponse

Thanks- I will use this as reference.