Bottom bracket bearings replaceable?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Bottom bracket bearings replaceable?
Can anyone tell me if the bearings are replaceable on this type of bottom bracket cartridge?
It is 100mm wide with an axle length of 195mm, I cannot find a replacement.
It is 100mm wide with an axle length of 195mm, I cannot find a replacement.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
Since we can't tell what bearings are in that bottom bracket...no. You can probably hammer them out and find replacements. Getting them back in might be fun.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I assume it's from a "Fat Bike". Any maker's name or model number on that cartridge? How about on the crank itself? Perhaps contact the bike's importer or distributor.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
Possibly. Can you see a bearing number on the rubber seal: will be in the format #### XXX normally. Bearing size is the number, usually four digits like 6009 in simple roller bearings Then there will be seal type like something like 2RS or ZZU, each manufacturer has a different code. At worst you can take it to a bearing supply and they'll measure them. Should only be a few bucks each.
Tricky bit will be getting them off. You'll likely need a press. Might be able to get away with a vice and a big hammer. The black bit in the middle is a spacer. Press (hammer) the axle out of the fixed cup, put the bolt back in to protect the end of the axle, with luck that will bring the bearing with it. Then you can press that bearing out of the cup and the other one off the axle and replace them. If not, you may have to use a cold chisel to try and catch the bearing lip where it meets the spacer. You could slightly grind a recess into the spacer to get more purchase if needed. Also need to rotate the bearing so it slides down the axle evenly and doesn't wedge itself.
When fitting the new bearings use tubular drifts like the right sized pipe to press on the section of bearing that is contacting what it's being pressed onto/into. So pressing into the fixed cup, press on the outer race. Pressing onto the axle press on the inner race. I'd press into the fixed cup first, then onto the axle with a narrower piece of pipe, then fit the spacer and the other bearing.
Tricky bit will be getting them off. You'll likely need a press. Might be able to get away with a vice and a big hammer. The black bit in the middle is a spacer. Press (hammer) the axle out of the fixed cup, put the bolt back in to protect the end of the axle, with luck that will bring the bearing with it. Then you can press that bearing out of the cup and the other one off the axle and replace them. If not, you may have to use a cold chisel to try and catch the bearing lip where it meets the spacer. You could slightly grind a recess into the spacer to get more purchase if needed. Also need to rotate the bearing so it slides down the axle evenly and doesn't wedge itself.
When fitting the new bearings use tubular drifts like the right sized pipe to press on the section of bearing that is contacting what it's being pressed onto/into. So pressing into the fixed cup, press on the outer race. Pressing onto the axle press on the inner race. I'd press into the fixed cup first, then onto the axle with a narrower piece of pipe, then fit the spacer and the other bearing.
Last edited by Trevtassie; 03-23-21 at 05:55 PM.
Likes For Crankycrank:
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
Here's a video appropriate to that style of bottom bracket...
What I would say is that his assembly technique is a bit dodgy in terms of pressing the bearings on to the shaft by pressing on the outside race. Really a no no, it needs a thin tube to push on the inner race.
Last edited by Trevtassie; 03-24-21 at 02:16 AM.
Likes For Trevtassie:
#7
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,515
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,398 Times
in
2,057 Posts
Bearings went on there initially, they can come off and new ones go on.
Rebuilding a cartridge BB isn't usually done but can be.
If you can't read a number on the bearings, measuring ID/OD/width & seal type can get you the right bearing at any bearing house like Motion Industries
Rebuilding a cartridge BB isn't usually done but can be.
If you can't read a number on the bearings, measuring ID/OD/width & seal type can get you the right bearing at any bearing house like Motion Industries