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Looking for a start point on a new bike, unsure which way to go.

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Looking for a start point on a new bike, unsure which way to go.

Old 03-24-21, 05:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MRT2
OK, for one, yes, your knowledge base is dated and some things have changed.
No surprise whatsoever.

Like you, until I came back to cycling in the late 90s, my experience was with those old uncomfortable hard saddles, and wearing jeans or denim cutoffs and cotton underwear. Wearing compression underwear or better yet cycling shorts to keep everything tidy and reduce friction and chafing. Once I had that sorted out, which didn't happen until the 90s, it was a revelation. In the old days, the discomfort caused me to want to stop riding after 8 or 10 miles, but once I was able to get comfortable, I found myself riding 20, 30 miles or more.
Hmm. Okay, wondering if we're on the same page here- apologies if I'm misconstruing, but this sounds like kitting out specific cycling clothing for marathon sessions. I've no desire for such, I'm looking for short hour-long rides occasionally tops to break up the day's monotony and get outside more. As always, that's the kind of thing that's subject to change if a bug bites me once I get going but for now this is "low-impact light weight daily cruise" level.

Second, you may be remembering a time when bike rims were made of steel, and those were indeed very dangerous in wet weather. That also got sorted out in the 90s and beyond, with even cheap wheels made out of aluminum and better braking surfaces. Pair that with quality brake pads like the Kool Stop Salmon pads and braking isn't an issue. Not to say hydraulic discs aren't an improvement. They are. But they cost, and you are asking for trouble going cheap, but getting low end hydraulic discs is not how I would go. I will leave it at that
You'd be entirely correct- my last memory of exploring shops was aluminum being expensive high-end competition rarities/options, usually added third-party at ridiculous cost. (Not that I dug around much, mostly maintaining whatever I had.) So, anyone with some info pile on here- fill me in about modern brakes. I recall side-pull and center-pull calipers, and the latest high-end being cantilevers which I've never actually owned anything with. Now on Bikes Direct I'm seeing mechanical and hydraulic discs, both mineral oil and DOT (From auto/motorcycle experience that difference seems pretty clear-cut, an issue of DOT being high-end race gear for intense usage for massive heat handling) and then I keep seeing "V-brakes" which form all the pictures I can find appear to be some latest variant of calipers or maybe cantilevers. Not sure how much is new technology and how much is new names for things I'm at least passingly familiar with. I keep seeing the term "straight-pull" which evades me but I'm sure will make sense once it's explained. I'm stubborn, but could be convinced to save myself the disc cost. Maybe.

And wrt to discs, how low is "going cheap?" The Gravity I was looking at claims Shimano hydraulics, my dated view says Shimano = very good. Maybe not top of line, but also not bargain basement. And i admit I'm sort of perceiving something of a level of disc hate from many on par with my rim-rubber loathing- which is counter-productive in a sense, making me want to see for myself if this claimed frequent warping issue is really as bad as it seems to be portrayed. I can see where it might be, compared to even a motorcycle rotor those discs are pretty thin but if they've been using them for years I'd think they'd have managed to engineer their way around some of that.

. Also, re: your accident where you hit a car at 25 mph, regardless of the brakes you have, if a car pulls out in front of you at 25 mph, you are going down. Either that, or you are going over the handlebars.
Oh, no doubt- I was hauling behind to school and got myself into a "no real way out" situation to be sure, but still like to scapegoat the gear.

Finally, if you can balance on a bike with 2 wheels, you have abs. And I am not talking about a 6 pack. I have a gut despite years of riding. One of the reasons I can't ride anything too aero. And yes, headwinds are a thing. But even at 54, you can do more than you think you can, if you get the right bike.
Most likely, I think the real point here is less what I'm capable of working myself up to and what I'm interested in working up to- I'm approaching this from a very low-impact casual level with no aspirations of extended riding, with the standard caveats of not knowing that I may not end up wanting to ride from Nicholasville to Lexington to my doctor appointments. (Around 10-20 miles depending on which specialist) But right now I'm thinking about half-hour jaunts around the neighborhood and runs to the Wal-Mart 2 miles up the road as big rides.

Off to see if there;s a brakes subforum with a good "Modern brakes for idiots" thread to peruse.

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Old 03-24-21, 05:41 PM
  #27  
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[QUOTE=Shay Howe;21983382]No surprise whatsoever.



Hmm. Okay, wondering if we're on the same page here- apologies if I'm misconstruing, but this sounds like kitting out specific cycling clothing for marathon sessions. I've no desire for such, I'm looking for short hour-long rides occasionally tops to break up the day's monotony and get outside more. As always, that's the kind of thing that's subject to change if a bug bites me once I get going but for now this is "low-impact light weight daily cruise" level.

[QUOTE]Second, you may be remembering a time when bike rims were made of steel, and those were indeed very dangerous in wet weather. That also got sorted out in the 90s and beyond, with even cheap wheels made out of aluminum and better braking surfaces. Pair that with quality brake pads like the Kool Stop Salmon pads and braking isn't an issue. Not to say hydraulic discs aren't an improvement. They are. But they cost, and you are asking for trouble going cheap, but getting low end hydraulic discs is not how I would go. I will leave it at that

You'd be entirely correct- my last memory of exploring shops was aluminum being expensive high-end competition rarities/options, usually added third-party at ridiculous cost. (Not that I dug around much, mostly maintaining whatever I had.) So, anyone with some info pile on here- fill me in about modern brakes. I recall side-pull and center-pull calipers, and the latest high-end being cantilevers which I've never actually owned anything with. Now on Bikes Direct I'm seeing mechanical and hydraulic discs, both mineral oil and DOT (From auto/motorcycle experience that difference seems pretty clear-cut, an issue of DOT being high-end race gear for intense usage for massive heat handling) and then I keep seeing "V-brakes" which form all the pictures I can find appear to be some latest variant of calipers or maybe cantilevers. Not sure how much is new technology and how much is new names for things I'm at least passingly familiar with. I keep seeing the term "straight-pull" which evades me but I'm sure will make sense once it's explained. I'm stubborn, but could be convinced to save myself the disc cost. Maybe.

And wrt to discs, how low is "going cheap?" The Gravity I was looking at claims Shimano hydraulics, my dated view says Shimano = very good. Maybe not top of line, but also not bargain basement. And i admit I'm sort of perceiving something of a level of disc hate from many on par with my rim-rubber loathing- which is counter-productive in a sense, making me want to see for myself if this claimed frequent warping issue is really as bad as it seems to be portrayed. I can see where it might be, compared to even a motorcycle rotor those discs are pretty thin but if they've been using them for years I'd think they'd have managed to engineer their way around some of that.



Oh, no doubt- I was hauling behind to school and got myself into a "no real way out" situation to be sure, but still like to scapegoat the gear.



Most likely, I think the real point here is less what I'm capable of working myself up to and what I'm interested in working up to- I'm approaching this from a very low-impact casual level with no aspirations of extended riding, with the standard caveats of not knowing that I may not end up wanting to ride from Nicholasville to Lexington to my doctor appointments. (Around 10-20 miles depending on which specialist) But right now I'm thinking about half-hour jaunts around the neighborhood and runs to the Wal-Mart 2 miles up the road as big rides.

Off to see if there;s a brakes subforum with a good "Modern brakes for idiots" thread to peruse.
OK, then.
1. Bike specific clothing - If you choose to go this route, your comfort on the bike will increase. Even if you don't want to do bike specific clothing, switching to athletic style underwear will also increase your comfort over cotton. FWIW, I tossed my old cotton underwear a few years ago in favor of Under Armour, Duluth Buck Naked, and Ex Officio, among others. But for a bike ride, I still go with bike shorts. Even if it is just for an hour, I like to be comfortable.

2. Rim brakes. - There are 3 main types of rim brakes these days. The dual pivot road caliper is what you see on most road bikes these days, except for those with disc brakes.
Cantilevers - an old design that you still see on touring bikes. I have these on my bike. Advantage being you can set it up with relatively wide tires. Disadvantage. maybe a little harder to set up than V Brakes
V Brakes started out as the standard on mountain bikes, but these days has migrated to hybrids, as most mountain bikes now have disc brakes. They are inexpensive, work well, and are easy to install and set up.


3. Shimano as an indication of quality. This is true, but there is Shimano and there is Shimano. They make everything from borderline junk all the way up to stuff the pros use. But even the lower end Shimano stuff isn't terrible. But, one of the nasty things cheap bike manufacturers do is to mix in a few name brand Shimano parts in with a lot of generic Chinese made junk. It is hard to figure it all out, but even the better brands do this sometimes as a cost cutting measure. For example, take this link from the Trek website on its very fine FX2 disc hybrid retailing for $700. Not a cheap bike, but take a look at the spec sheet and you see a little slight of hand. Not terrible, mind you, but you see the cost cutting at work if you know what to look for. Notice how they boast a Shimano Free hub, but not Shimano hubs, but rather Formula hubs. And for the drivetrain, Shimano Altus shifter and rear derailleur but Shimano tourney front derailleur. That is a cost cutting move, as the front derailleur is cheaper than the rear derailleur. And Formula hubs are cheaper than Shimano hubs. And these are all named Shimano components, which is still better than generic Shimano components, which are basically the Shimano equivalent of department store junk.
Bottom line. Just because they throw around the name Shimano doesn't mean all that much.
Frame Alpha Gold Aluminum, DuoTrap S compatible, internal cable routing, flat mount disc, rack & fender mounts, 135x5mm QR Fork FX Alloy, flat mount disc, rack mounts, 405mm axle-to-crown, ThruSkew 5mm QR Wheels Hub front Formula DC-20, alloy, 6-bolt, 5x100mm QR Hub rear Formula DC-22, alloy, 6-bolt, Shimano 8/9/10 freehub, 135x5mm QR Rim Bontrager Connection, alloy, double-wall, 32-hole, schrader valve Spokes 14g stainless steel Tire Bontrager H2 Comp, wire bead, 30tpi, 700x35c Drivetrain *Shifter Size: S, M, L, XL, XXL
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Old 03-24-21, 06:36 PM
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Huge confessions of shame---I did not read past the first couple of posts. Feel free not to read this one.

If you like to tinker and rally just need anything with wheels connected to pedals .... buy cheap and build.

I started car-free commuting on a borrowed bike, then got bikes from the trash and at yard sales. i mixed and matched parts, learned how to wrench 9they had these things called "books" back then which had some of that information) and I learned a lot about cheap simple bikes and how to keep them on the road cheaply and simply.

There will be some tools you will need or want to buy, but a lot you can do without, particularly since you have experience as a mechanic, and are used to looking at jobs and thinking how to get them done with what you have.

Nowadays with the Internet you can watch about ten thousand YouTube videos on everything from mining ore to smelting metal to drawing out tubes .... every aspect of bike building and fixing has video explanation.

Just as an option, consider buying some bikes on Craigslist, and even better if there are yard sales and swap meets. Every bike is either rideable or is a parts bike (or can be cleaned, tuned, and sold for a profit.) After a while you might decide on a bike you Really want or you might enjoy riding different bikes every month or week or day ....

If you aren't hung up on high-tech and name brands, and are experienced enough to tell cheap stamped metal from better stamped metal from cast and machined and such ... you will have a lot of fun and the best part is, if your bike gets stolen, you have three more at home, and all for less than $200.
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Old 03-24-21, 06:40 PM
  #29  
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1. Bike specific clothing - If you choose to go this route, your comfort on the bike will increase. Even if you don't want to do bike specific clothing, switching to athletic style underwear will also increase your comfort over cotton. FWIW, I tossed my old cotton underwear a few years ago in favor of Under Armour, Duluth Buck Naked, and Ex Officio, among others. But for a bike ride, I still go with bike shorts. Even if it is just for an hour, I like to be comfortable.
Okay, that's squarely on the "Maybe look into later depending on how things go" pile.

2. Rim brakes. - There are 3 main types of rim brakes these days. The dual pivot road caliper is what you see on most road bikes these days, except for those with disc brakes.
Cantilevers - an old design that you still see on touring bikes. I have these on my bike. Advantage being you can set it up with relatively wide tires. Disadvantage. maybe a little harder to set up than V Brakes
V Brakes started out as the standard on mountain bikes, but these days has migrated to hybrids, as most mountain bikes now have disc brakes. They are inexpensive, work well, and are easy to install and set up.
Alrighty, puts more a of a perspective on things. Also ran into the Bicycle Mechanics section, located the Sheldon Brown Bicycle Glossary, and am reading voraciously. (something I'm quite adept at.) Still leery of rim braking, but far more open to the idea looking at developments beyond what I recall seeing in the dim misty past. This is what I came here for- to get up to speed somewhat before going into the wallet and a piece of hardware I'm stuck dealing with.

3. Shimano as an indication of quality. This is true, but there is Shimano and there is Shimano. They make everything from borderline junk all the way up to stuff the pros use. But even the lower end Shimano stuff isn't terrible. But, one of the nasty things cheap bike manufacturers do is to mix in a few name brand Shimano parts in with a lot of generic Chinese made junk....
Makes perfect sense- I've seen the same in music and firearms, where there are duds even from otherwise reliable brands. (Recently got through a nightmare with a brand new Kimber 1911 that wouldn't even load a round- felt like buying a BMW then being told after the fact that a steering wheel and seats are extra. )

Anyway, back to that Bicycle Glossary. Cheers!
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Old 03-24-21, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
Huge confessions of shame---I did not read past the first couple of posts. Feel free not to read this one.
I'm long-winded enough to take no offense at people skipping the lengthy stuff, no worries.

If you aren't hung up on high-tech and name brands, and are experienced enough to tell cheap stamped metal from better stamped metal from cast and machined and such ... you will have a lot of fun and the best part is, if your bike gets stolen, you have three more at home, and all for less than $200.
On the one hand, right up my alley- back in the high school hot rodding days with a ratty '67 Mustang (non-restoration-worthy, great first beater though) I had 2 extra engines and enough parts to make 2 more sitting around.

But on the other hand, current apartment living situation makes storage of anything but the necessities problematic- I'll be pushing it storing 1 usable bike on top of all my other stuff.

And on the gripping hand, then there's a 6 foot high wall of 2 weeks worth of home dialysis supplies. 1 bike is going to make it almost hoarder-grade "what to move to get to what when" living, otherwise I'd gladly go that route like I have before.
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Old 03-25-21, 04:01 AM
  #31  
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Having done more studying and nosing around, currently giving consideration to this one as a decent start point- certainly no gripes about it being around half what my first thought entry was.
Save Up to 60% Off Comfort Bikes | Bike Path Bikes | Windsor Dover 1 from bikesdirect.com
Can't see any major flaws as a starting point myself. If my back doesn't gripe about those bars I'll live and if it does I can always change'em out.
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Old 03-25-21, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Shay Howe
Having done more studying and nosing around, currently giving consideration to this one as a decent start point- certainly no gripes about it being around half what my first thought entry was.
Save Up to 60% Off Comfort Bikes | Bike Path Bikes | Windsor Dover 1 from bikesdirect.com
Can't see any major flaws as a starting point myself. If my back doesn't gripe about those bars I'll live and if it does I can always change'em out.
It has the virtue of being simple, which is a good thing for an entry level bike. V brakes just work and are inexpensive. Even if you break one, the replacement is cheap and easy to install. Not necessarily true of disc brakes. 26" wheels are the old mountain bike standard, which is a good thing as there is a huge number of old mountain bike wheels floating around, so easy to replace if needed. Adjustable handlebars look like a reasonable starting point for a beginner. Components are pretty entry level, but not unreasonable for the price. The single 44 tooth chainring should be ok, but I wouldn't want to be climbing any extreme hills with that gearing. But for mostly flat rides, it should be fine.

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Old 03-25-21, 09:50 AM
  #33  
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It seems as though things have worked their way around to something that is not very different in general layout (but perhaps not build quality) than what MRT2 suggested in his first post:
If you are looking for cheap, get a used bike. Something like an old Trek, Cannondale, or Giant hybrid or multi track bike. Or Specialized, Bianchi, Fuji, Jamis, or Kona. Basically any bike that was sold at a bike shop. Or even a hard tail mountain bike. Something like a Trek 7xx, 8xx, or 9xx, for example. They key here is look for something quality but simple. No suspension fork, simple V brakes, solid wheels. Look for Cro Moly steel, or aluminum frame. 7 speed is OK. 8 speed is even better.
(Yes, yes, I understand that there's a big difference between what you can "click and order" and what would require hunting/finding/fixing.)
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Old 03-25-21, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by John Valuk
It seems as though things have worked their way around to something that is not very different in general layout (but perhaps not build quality) than what MRT2 suggested in his first post:
Ayup. Not too surprised at that myself, I was somewhat backhandedly looking to be talked out of anything that might fall under serious mistake, and keep it to minimal mistakes. (I'm not happy unless there's a mistake in there somewhere, ya see. They pile up and hit you all at once if you don't keep'em dribbling in over time.)

I'm still not really convinced discs are a serious mistake overall, but have succeded in relegating them to "something worth investigation later" while going with something semi-familiar in the V-brakes.

(Yes, yes, I understand that there's a big difference between what you can "click and order" and what would require hunting/finding/fixing.)
Indeed. And me being something of a lazy [censored] these days, that difference is quite significant.
Now for the fun part, reworking the budget situation. I've got to get into some cheaper/less intensive hobbies sometime. But the deal on my Hiwatt amp was too good to pass up and let slip by, sooo...yeah, it's always something mucking up the current operative plan.
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Old 03-25-21, 10:56 AM
  #35  
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I referred to "general layout", but what you linked to would still have some significant differences when compared to, say, a 90s-vintage hybrid or hardtail MTB.
  • The old bike would have double or triple chainrings in the front, and might have a smaller range (and thus closer spacing of tooth count between cogs) on the back; pretty versatile.
  • In the case of hybrids, the 700c wheels offer a good variety of choices when it comes to tires for road riding.
  • The old bikes can have pretty good build quality (I don't have personal experience with the bike to which you linked).
It's not every day that I get the chance to feel snobby about riding a 90s-vintage hybrid, but here we are.

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Old 03-25-21, 11:00 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Shay Howe
Having done more studying and nosing around, currently giving consideration to this one as a decent start point- certainly no gripes about it being around half what my first thought entry was.
Save Up to 60% Off Comfort Bikes | Bike Path Bikes | Windsor Dover 1 from bikesdirect.com
Can't see any major flaws as a starting point myself. If my back doesn't gripe about those bars I'll live and if it does I can always change'em out.
There is one major flaw that this bike has, the 7 speed freewheel. Freewheel hubs are not a good idea for someone who weighs 200 pounds or more, the freewheel design is prone to rear axles bending and breaking. Instead, look for 8 or more speed cassette hubs which are much more robust with respect to axle problems

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Old 03-25-21, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
There is one major flaw that this bike has, the 7 speed freewheel. Freewheel hubs are not a good idea for someone who weighs 200 ponds or more, the freewheel design is prone to rear axles bending and breaking. Instead, look for 8 or more speed cassette hubs which are much more robust with respect to axle problems
Well, perhaps, but if your budget is under $300, you can't have everything. Indeed, Trek sells a 7 speed FX1 for $500 retail, and if you want an 8 speed Trek hybrid, it will cost you $700 for the FX2 Disc. 8 speed freehub is preferable to 7 speed freewheel, but it isn't as if your new 7 speed freewheel will explode the minute someone weighing over 200 lbs throws a leg over the top bar. Indeed, a lot of older 90s era bikes I have already suggested come with 7 speed freewheels, so I am not about to tell OP to stay away from all 7 speed bikes.

At the point where we seem to be actually getting somewhere with OP, I don't want to see him throw up his hands and walk away when he actually seems to have found something that could work for him.

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Old 03-25-21, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MRT2
At the point where we seem to be actually getting somewhere with OP, I don't want to see him throw up his hands and walk away when he actually seems to have found something that could work for him.
Outstanding logic, and so close to the mark that you may not have hit the target but you definitely scared the bejeezus out of it.
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Old 03-25-21, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MRT2
Indeed, a lot of older 90s era bikes I have already suggested come with 7 speed freewheels, so I am not about to tell OP to stay away from all 7 speed bikes.
My 1995 Trek hybrid was built at such a time that it's 7 speed, but cassette/freehub rather than freewheel.

Originally Posted by MRT2
At the point where we seem to be actually getting somewhere with OP, I don't want to see him throw up his hands and walk away when he actually seems to have found something that could work for him.
Yes, this! Find something good enough to get on the road safely, and enjoy the ride.

If one is so inclined, they can still choose to keep an eye on Craigslist, etc. in case something interesting turns up there. When one already has something to ride, then the search is not desperate, and thus more fun.

N+1, and all that...
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Old 03-25-21, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by John Valuk
My 1995 Trek hybrid was built at such a time that it's 7 speed, but cassette/freehub rather than freewheel.



Yes, this! Find something good enough to get on the road safely, and enjoy the ride.

If one is so inclined, they can still choose to keep an eye on Craigslist, etc. in case something interesting turns up there. When one already has something to ride, then the search is not desperate, and thus more fun.

N+1, and all that...
I gave my 1997 Bianchi Advantage away to my cousin in Chicago. After some initial back wheel problems, the bike road solidly for a good 20 years, the first 10 or 12 as my primary bike, then I loaned it to my niece who stayed with us for a time and she needed a way to get around town. Then it was my son's bike for a couple of years until he got too tall. then it sat for a few years as a spare bike.

So I gave it to my cousin, who uses it to ride around the Chicago lakefront in the summer. I suggested he might want to upgrade from the original 7 speed to 8 speed, but explained what that all involved, including a new right shifter, new rear derailleur, new cassette/freehub, and possibly a new wheel. He asked if there was any reason he couldn't just ride as is with 7 speeds. And I said no, and he said that is what he would do.
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Old 03-25-21, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MRT2
I suggested he might want to upgrade from the original 7 speed to 8 speed, but explained what that all involved, including a new right shifter, new rear derailleur, new cassette/freehub, and possibly a new wheel. He asked if there was any reason he couldn't just ride as is with 7 speeds. And I said no, and he said that is what he would do.
For the foreseeable future, I plan to keep rocking the original 3 x 7 configuration on mine.
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Old 03-25-21, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by John Valuk
Yes, this! Find something good enough to get on the road safely, and enjoy the ride.

If one is so inclined, they can still choose to keep an eye on Craigslist, etc. in case something interesting turns up there. When one already has something to ride, then the search is not desperate, and thus more fun.

N+1, and all that...
All true. Also, the reckoning I'm working from is that while a cassette may be stronger than a freewheel, the old LeTour III I had years ago (when I was pushing 250+ on a GOOD day) was prior to cassettes being a thing, I was brutal enough to snap off 3 pedals in a year, and the freewheel is one of the few things I didn't manage to break on it. Not to say you're wrong, but another point I think valid is I'm working with a mountain/hybrid that presumably should handle by design at least low-level off-road/trail harshness but my intent is to employ it as an over-built street cruiser, under what should ideally be less punishing conditions. Should be coming with the requisite grain of salt, as always.

And worse come to worse, if it does blow out then there's the beginning of a fun career in disaster repair and recovery. Right?

The most worrisome thing to me at the moment is realizing there are quick-releases on the axles, but then I look back to the "trail rugged design" angle- the ones I annihilated on the LeTour III were little spindly skinny road-racer things on those old 27 inch 90 PSI tires no bigger than my thumb is. And again, if things go south there that's just another opportunity. At this point I'm content with the start point and more interested in seeing where it goes from there than second-guessing it much further.
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Old 03-25-21, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Shay Howe
Also, the reckoning I'm working from is that while a cassette may be stronger than a freewheel, the old LeTour III I had years ago (when I was pushing 250+ on a GOOD day) was prior to cassettes being a thing, I was brutal enough to snap off 3 pedals in a year, and the freewheel is one of the few things I didn't manage to break on it. Not to say you're wrong, but another point I think valid is I'm working with a mountain/hybrid that presumably should handle by design at least low-level off-road/trail harshness but my intent is to employ it as an over-built street cruiser, under what should ideally be less punishing conditions. Should be coming with the requisite grain of salt, as always.
I think you may be responding to someone else here. I never expressed an opinion here about freehub vs. freewheel.
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Old 03-25-21, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by John Valuk
I think you may be responding to someone else here. I never expressed an opinion here about freehub vs. freewheel.
You'd be correct. Was replying to you and thinking of a couple of previous posts and got who said what crossed up.
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Old 03-25-21, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Shay Howe
I'm looking at getting my first bike in 30-ish years. I'm a former auto mechanic with phenomenal tinkering ability, and lean more toward "where can I start" than at getting just what I want off the bat.
Oh-oh! You're a tinkerer.

We live in an era in which there is a plethora of commercially available bicycle styles that are variations on a theme. The quick solution would be to go to the biggest bike store in town, the one that has the biggest array of models on the showroom floor and you'll see what I mean. Most likely, they'll have something that will fit exactly what you think that you need today.

But you're a tinkerer so you don't want to do that. Acquire a bike - any bike and start riding it. Every time that you ride it, make a mental list of what you like about it and what you don't. Then go home and try to figure out how to make it maximize your likes and minimize the don't likes. You are going to have twice as much fun as all the other riders because they can only hve fun while they are riding and you'll be having fun while you are screwing around with your bike.

I know this to be true.
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Old 03-28-21, 08:34 PM
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Did you the trigger on a bike yet?
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Old 03-29-21, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Outrider1
Did you the trigger on a bike yet?
Not yet, sitting in a holding pattern. It's definitely going to happen, but I'm waiting on 1: a stimulus direct deposit, and 2: a podiatrist to get me an appointment for fitting/ordering/production of custom-fitted diabetic shoes. (Well, the hold also allows for 3: watching Bikes Direct to see if by longshot chance they restock my choice in blue rather than black/white or perchance another model similar in stats and price comes along but that's more a time-passing measure. Be nice to have something in blue or red, but matte black works just fine too)

But once my deposit comes through the order's getting placed and I can build, then it's just down to getting the shoes made so the doc will approve me to get out of the clunky oversize post-op boot on my left foot. Being as I can walk in it just fine I suspect riding would be possible, though I suspect "a bit ungainly" would also apply. (Wearing it with custom cushions to take pressure off the ball of the foot to prevent a second recurrence of a diabetic ulcer, no bone issues- as the Black Knight would say, "Tis but a flesh wound! I've 'ad worse." ) Not that I might not circle the parking lot a couple times for function testing, but "actual" riding will wait until all's in the green.
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Old 03-29-21, 03:40 AM
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Great! Keep us informed as to when you do land your bike.
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Old 03-29-21, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Outrider1
Great! Keep us informed as to when you do land your bike.
OH, absolutely will do!
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Old 03-29-21, 06:47 AM
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I bought a Felt nearly 2 years ago at the age of 50. I hadn't owned a bike in probably 25 years. I did a good deal of research on the subject and when I walked into the bike shop I was thinking I'd be willing to spend up to $1000, which even seemed like a significant stretch for me. Long story short, I walked out with a $2000 bike, That hurt the old wallet, but having hydro disc brakes and a top notch derailing system has made a huge difference. I'm having a blast with this bike!

Good luck.
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