morgothaod

What brand and model of cruiser is single speed, has a coaster brake, and quick release for the tires? Does one exist? Thanks a lot

SquidPuppet

I don't think you'll find a coaster brake with a quick release. A quick release requires a hollow axle and a skewer. I am unaware of any coaster brake hubs with that configuration.

I just carry one of theses. It's tiny (4.5 inches) so it fits anywhere. It's a 15mm wrench at one end and a tire lever at the other end. Very handy. It takes about 2 seconds to loosen the wheel nuts. No slower than a quick release.

Philphine

I have a quick release front on my one regular single speed cruiser (er... as regular a cruiser as I have anyway. kent lajolla). a quick release on the rear with a coaster brake I don't think has ever occurred to me. I think because I hardly ever ride them, or seen one.


the always with me things (which I just reached down to my pocket and found I don't have with me) is a 6" adjustable wrench. the opposite end can be used like a tire tool if it's not a really tight tire (like a narrow road bike type I hardly ever ride). and a vice grip/schrade version of a leatherman. had it for years. it's gotten kind of loose, but they're no longer made and when they pop up on ebay the price is crazy.


edit https://www.ebay.com/itm/Schrade-Vic...EAAOSwyQtV5HcH


and this is used. I think I paid about $35 for mine new years back.


edit edit https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Irwin-V...75.c100623.m-1


sorry to run off on a tangent. this is pretty close. well worth having. if they don't sell out before I have a few extra bucks i'll probably get one.

bicyclridr4life

A quick release for a coaster brake is not really practical. You would also need one for the brake arm anchor.

If you are looking for tooless removal, back in the day, wing nuts were used on both the front and rear axles. For the brake arm anchor, you could put a wing nut on that bolt, too.

I don't know if the Lowrider Bicycle "knock-off" hubs (they go on the end of the axle) are threaded or push-on. If they are threaded, they might be an option.

SquidPuppet

Nope. Pretty clever. Problem solved for the OP for only $40.00. Available in all the popular axle dimensions too, including the oddball 3/8 x 24tpi on coaster brakes. Even comes in a Pro race model.

For me they are a no go though.

1. Aesthetically unappealing. Way too much bulky apparatus sticking way too far out there. Not sanitary, minimalist precision like a track nut.

2. Far too aerodynamically inefficient. I can't afford all that drag when I'm screaming along at 10 mph under the speed limit. I have a coaster brake, I don't need air brakes too. The abstract shape looks like it could induce turbulence which could cause wobble. Just can't afford that at the speeds I crush.

3. Heavy. Even without the required adapter they add almost 3/4 of a lb to the bike. Again, that would destroy my critical pacing.

4. I wouldn't need to carry my super cool PDW wrench.




Track nuts... because everything else is just wrong.

SquidPuppet

I stole it from a motorcycle racing buddy. It was reserved as his highest compliment. "Dude, look at the safety wire job on that exhaust. It's so sanitary."

morgothaod

That wrench + tire lever is a great idea. If removing the tire is pretty fast and easy then a quick release isn't necessary. Even though I like the option of having gears, I like that a single speed is less likely to have issues. Any particular brand that you all recommend? Seems like the Electra Townie is popular on here. I was hoping to find something comfortable enough to ride for 10 miles- an hour of non stop riding.

2manybikes

Even with an axle quick release you still need to unbolt the torque arm from the chain stay. I just carry a very short wrench in my bag. The length does not matter, you can push it down with one foot if needed to undo the axle nut. I switched the torque arm bolt to an allen wrench head. And the nut, to one that has a built in washer, similar to a track axle nut.

2manybikes

If the axle wrench combination tire tool is steel it's going to put a dent in the edge of an aluminum wheel. Just as I did. Use plastic tire levers if you have aluminum wheels. Steel wheels may only get scratched with a steel tire tool. It depends on how hard the steel is. If you are not sure what your wheels are made of try a magnet to see if it sticks to the wheel. If it does it's steel.

jimmie65

I'm still trying to understand why you want a quick release on a single speed coaster brake bike.
Removing the brake arm, as well as reattaching it, will take far more time than unbolting an axle.

2manybikes

I think the nut is too close to the stay clamp bend to fit a wing nut.

fietsbob

Nothing ships with that.. Home | Axle Release, thing
so No brands of bike ships with those QR lever ends, None, period.


you buy the bike then buy those things on your own.

a fat tire on a cruiser bike should be fast and easy to remove with just your hands..

and just about as fast to re install them ..

Practice at home first.

SquidPuppet

That is the cool thing about the non parallel handle on the PDW wrench. It's bent outward so it stays away from the chain stay. And because it's flat, it behaves like a stable pedal to step on for loosening and tightening.

I did this too. I converted to metric since other Allen fasteners on the bike are metric, Like the seat post clamp bolt. I have a 9mm box wrench that was made for electronics (I think) for the nut. The wrench is tiny. Like 2 inches long maybe.

The PDW wrench is steel. But the black color is a rubber coating. That makes it comfy for a wrench handle and prevents scratching when used as a tire lever. So far no dents for me.

SquidPuppet

Is that where that came from, King Kenny? I'm embarrassed. I should know trivia like that.

SquidPuppet

IME just about any bike can be made comfy. It just depends on how much effort you are willing to put into learning about fit and the trial and error process when making adjustments. And if you are willing to spend a few more bucks to get a saddle and handlebar that suit you. If you think about it, those two things are critical. If you get those things right, and adjusted right, there is no reason you can't ride 50 (or more) miles on a cruiser.

Saddles, handlebars, and grips range anywhere from dirt cheap to very expensive. Shopping for that stuff can be fun because it allows you to customize the bike to your tastes.

I won't recommend one bike brand over another because I believe that even the cheapies can perform well for a long time if they begin life properly. The problem with cheapies (and many moderately priced bikes too) is that they come from the store or on line retailer tragically under greased and poorly adjusted. Poorly enough to cause premature wear and damage to the components.

If these things are addressed by you or a trusted mechanic, even a wallyworld bike should provide good service.

1. Spokes should be stress relieved and brought up to proper tension. That's not something that was done by the robot that built the wheels.

2. Headset, crank, and both wheel hubs should be disassembled, degreased, cleaned, regreased with enough quality grease, and then properly adjusted.

3. Seat post removed and seat tube greased, because 99.9% of the time they aren't.

4. Quill stem should be removed and greased along with inside and outside of fork steerer to prevent rust, because 99.9% of the time they aren't.

5. Pedals should be properly cleaned, greased and adjusted too, if they are serviceable. most cheapies come with disposable pedals though.

6. Chain should be properly adjusted. They usually come horribly over tensioned.


I will make one comment about brands though. Seek a bike that uses a Shimano CB-E110 coaster brake hub. IMO they are way better built and function much better than the other brands. My 2 cents, YMMV.

fietsbob

I switched the torque arm nut & bolt on myrear drum brake hub to a lock out pin..

its a pin with a spring loaded ball on the end to prevent it coming out, without being pulled by the ring on the other end.

an industrial use is turning a lever to turn off a piece of equipment, and putting the pin in with a tag on it saying something like ,

'Do not operate maintenance worker inside' .. with out lockouts like that people have been killed on the job..





....

SquidPuppet

See how it's flat on the handle end? You make the nuts hand tight and then flip the bike back onto it's wheels. Place the wrench on the nut and step on it. That's why it is bent at an angle. It keeps the handle part away from the chain stay. No scratches.