Sixty Fiver

Yep... through the bottom of the steerer with a ratchet and small extension socket.

clasher

It does have a long top tube for such a small frame, I measured it around 55cm so that's part of it. The rando bars also look gigantic paired with such a small frame. Maybe it wasn't the best choice of frame but it's a pain to sell parts on the local kijiji here but whole bikes seem to move so hopefully I get some action on it.

Jim22201

Am I going to run into any problems with a Shimano 105 Group set that is 3x10. I thought I read somewhere that old MTB's have issues going up to 10 speed cassettes but now I cant figure out where I read it. It was something about chainline based on the length of your chain stay. Would I be better off doing a 9 speed or less? Any help is greatly appreciated.

simmonsgc

Looks like a perfectly serviceable bike to me. I dig it. I'm partial to the 'parts bin' budget builds. You just need to smear some grease on that gleaming quicklink.

Lascauxcaveman 

Nah, mang. Dat's da gold tooth in da grill. Bling.

Paulfs67

I'm running 105 10x3 on my mountain bike, changed from 7x3, just had to put a 2mm spacer on the drive side of the axle to give enough clearance, I also spun the bottom bracket spindle around to pull the cranks in about 2mm as the throw of the front derailleur shifter is a bit shorter than the 7 speed ones, works great. Here's a couple of picks of mine
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Anceps

Yo guys, I finally managed to pick up a project. I found this guy hiding in a garage in my town:



Giant ATX 780, unknown year. Full XT groupset, condition isn't too bad!

I'm looking to build up a touring/commuting rig, so I'm still on CL looking at older frames with more mounting options. So, if anyone's interested in a 16" Giant frame, hit me up.

I'm sure I'll be back as I make progress. Speaking of which, anyone know a good way to clean up rust...?

mountaindave 

Nice find! Depends on where the rust is. If you are looking to save a frame, google "bikeforums frame saver" and you'll get a plethora of threads on the topic with detailed processes.

Anceps

Hey mountaindave, I'm mostly looking to clean up the components. There's some rust on the front derailleur and the crank bolts.

Velocivixen

The good news is I sold my 1990 Trek 930 lugged frame/fork tonight. The bad news I gotta look for a better fitting bike.

I also just sold my 2011 Surly Cross Check (same person), and I'm thinking to buy (gasp) modern to replace it. I won't know where to post if I buy a modern rig! I'll be like a lost kitten...I mean Vixen.

mountaindave 

Brass wool or brass brush and WD40. It's softer than steel and chrome and won't scratch (but always test in an inconspicuous place first). Someday I'll get an ultrasonic cleaner to save me the elboe grease...

For bolts I usually physically remove the largest corrosion with a sharp object (nail, awl, whatever), coat in WD40 and let sit for a while. Then I hit them with a wire wheel in a Dremel tool or bench grinder. Grease threads before installing. You can also coat the head lightly with oil, but wipe down before installing as it can attract dirt.

mountaindave 

What's bad about that? On the hunt again!!

You mean pariah? Kidding!!

Velocivixen

Haha. It might even have disc brakes! OMG.

fiatjeepdriver

I finally finished my Muddy Fox Sorcerer Pro build. I put slicks on it for now since I wanted to ride it on the ride of silence.

Paramount1973 

I remove bolts with rusty heads, chuck them in a cordless drill by the threaded portion and use fine sandpaper (400, 600, 1000 grit, whatever) gray abrasive pads, polishing compound, basically whatever it takes to get them polished up again.

zjrog

I have a nearly exact copy of that frame, same color but a bit taller. Trying to figure what to do with it. N+1, weeeeeee.

mountaindave 

I can finally join the club!! I really hated those grip shifters, always shifting when you're trying to bunny hop.

From this:


To this:


Frame's serial number says it's a '94, but who really knows - the parts' date stamps are all over the place. The rear wheel blew up at some point and they threw in an 8s hub which is wider than the original 7s hub, so the rear triangle is currently stretched a bit.

I bought it from a friend who inherited it from a friend when he passed suddenly. It has been in a fairly serious front-end crash. Another friend tells me it may have been during a race when the original owner wrecked and broke his collarbone. The top and down tubes are slightly bent from the impact. Not bad, but my eye caught it.

Anyway, it's not likely to be bombing hills anymore, but it is still very functional so I turned it into a dirt drop with some "ergo" handlebars I cut down (stupidly) on a different bike. Not true dirt drop bars, but they will function just fine. I used them on a road bike two summers ago that I pretended was a CX bike and liked them quite a bit off road.

You may have noticed that there is no cable coming from the left brifter (a non-functional one I swapped in) because I have ditched the FD and decided to go 1x7 with a 36 x 11-28. The brifter is an 8s, but it is shifting 7 just fine. If I really like it, I may actually purchase a new cassette and go 1x8 with a 36 x 11-34.

I haven't sunk any actual money into it because of the frame damage. It needs a boatload of work so I'm going to ride it a while before I go crazy with it. That and I have a two or three... or four other projects on the back burner at the moment...

whatwolf

Looks amazing.

Roger M

Hey Dave, I have (probably) the same year MB1 as yours. Should be a 93 model

Bridgestone Bicycles 1993 Catalogue page 37

mountaindave 

Thanks for the info, I have scoured those catalogs and am guessing specs changed or the PO did all kinds of crazy changes - nothing matches except the RD (no date stamp) and the cranks (but with 1990-ish date stamp???). I wish it still had the Ritchey Logic forks still, but the Judy's are not too shabby. I've never owned a MTB that is so light!

It also came with cheop-o Cheng-Shin C1028 tires, but they are exactly what I would want - diamond tread up the middle, knobs on the side.

ThermionicScott 

Looks promising! If there aren't any ripples/cracks in the metal and the frame isn't twisted out of alignment, I wouldn't worry about it. In fact, there have been times I wished my Diamondback had a steeper head tube for lighter steering -- but the impact required to bend this frame wouldn't just hurt the rider...

fiatjeepdriver

Thanks. I'm going to put some proper tires on there soon and hit the singletrack.

bjt0055

Been looking at this thread from time to time and everyone has some great bikes! So figured Id share mine. Its a Schwinn Cimarron, I believe an 85. Ive had it for many years, got it as a frame/fork. It doesnt get ridden much, but its always a pleasure to ride. Usually its loaded up for camping and such and has never had a problem with the weight. Some of that I give credit to the XTR low normal rear derailleur, it allows down shifting under load/torque and not loose my momentum on the hills, I highly recommend these types of derailleur for heavy loads. Keep up the great builds!

mountaindave 

That looks like a great camping rig!

SJX426 

I have been wanting to participate in this thread but I don't have a converted MTB to Drop Bars!

Inspired by DD crash when he was on DG, I took a drop bar that has no value as such (no name Trek bar) and applied a 2x4. Some of you will just cringe but it is my neck and I figure that the bar was straight at some point in time, I am just finishing it!
[IMG]P1030009 by on Flickr[/IMG]