Drilling holes for internal brake cable mod
#26
my nice bike is at home
you crazy bro.. just clamp the stand on the seat post or down tube. Don't go drilling holes. You crazy ...
__________________
BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
#27
Voice of the Industry
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 12,572
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
8 Posts
You know the disclaimers.
I prefer to drill carbon fibre way more than anything else.
Reason is many/most times it is made with some bladder and the wall thickness varies anyway and it there is lots of extra material built into it. Then, even broken the stuff is tough. An alloy post/part will snap. Steel with bend and CF will crack. Of course enough force and it will snap too, but materials are different and the tolerances are different.
An Extralite (brand) part will hardly ever be modified. It is already perfect. A CF bar I have no issues drilling, but I understand where the stress points are.
Anyway - your bike is on a trainer. Drill. If you do not know where it is safe to drill, don't. But I think you are fine. Alloy will have tighter tolerances and you do want to be careful.
For example - for a cable - I'd drill in the side toward the middle of the head tube. Not a lot is going on there. If the welds are huge, maybe a weld. If they are finely filed -not a weld. If in the TT...careful. A butted tube in the butt/thicker section farther from the weld would be preferred over the thin area. Since alloy is typically not butted, an inc from the weld is good.
You might feel this with the fork / seat post out.
I prefer to drill carbon fibre way more than anything else.
Reason is many/most times it is made with some bladder and the wall thickness varies anyway and it there is lots of extra material built into it. Then, even broken the stuff is tough. An alloy post/part will snap. Steel with bend and CF will crack. Of course enough force and it will snap too, but materials are different and the tolerances are different.
An Extralite (brand) part will hardly ever be modified. It is already perfect. A CF bar I have no issues drilling, but I understand where the stress points are.
Anyway - your bike is on a trainer. Drill. If you do not know where it is safe to drill, don't. But I think you are fine. Alloy will have tighter tolerances and you do want to be careful.
For example - for a cable - I'd drill in the side toward the middle of the head tube. Not a lot is going on there. If the welds are huge, maybe a weld. If they are finely filed -not a weld. If in the TT...careful. A butted tube in the butt/thicker section farther from the weld would be preferred over the thin area. Since alloy is typically not butted, an inc from the weld is good.
You might feel this with the fork / seat post out.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,475
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
I married one (not a man, a woman).
I got into cycling when drilling was popular. It was also crazy.
I was working where I had a machine shop and drill presses. That makes things a lot cleaner than free-hand. I am not free hand, and I drill for practicality - sometimes I miss. Nothing like 70s/80s, but done in the right places, I don't think it is a problem, most parts have some material they can give up.
I got into cycling when drilling was popular. It was also crazy.
I was working where I had a machine shop and drill presses. That makes things a lot cleaner than free-hand. I am not free hand, and I drill for practicality - sometimes I miss. Nothing like 70s/80s, but done in the right places, I don't think it is a problem, most parts have some material they can give up.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,475
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
The biggest issue with this is when/if other people touch your stuff - or you forget.
Mechanics are expecting standard and if it is not obvious, they will help break things for you.
Mechanics are expecting standard and if it is not obvious, they will help break things for you.
#30
Voice of the Industry
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 12,572
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
8 Posts
I married one (not a man, a woman).
I got into cycling when drilling was popular. It was also crazy.
I was working where I had a machine shop and drill presses. That makes things a lot cleaner than free-hand. I am not free hand, and I drill for practicality - sometimes I miss. Nothing like 70s/80s, but done in the right places, I don't think it is a problem, most parts have some material they can give up.
I got into cycling when drilling was popular. It was also crazy.
I was working where I had a machine shop and drill presses. That makes things a lot cleaner than free-hand. I am not free hand, and I drill for practicality - sometimes I miss. Nothing like 70s/80s, but done in the right places, I don't think it is a problem, most parts have some material they can give up.