What is first important to Upgrade?
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What is first important to Upgrade?
I have a Foxter Evans 3.0 Bike which is a low budget bike. I'm planning to reduce
it's weight and I already changed the stock fork to epixon fork and I love the result of it.
So should I upgrade the frame or the groupset or the wheelset to lessen it's weight. I only have $400 (converted to dollar) budget
to upgrade my bike. I hope you can answer my question. Thank you!
Update:
These are the specs:Foxter Evans 3.0 Hydraulic Brake Size 27.5 model 2018
24 Speed Gears ! ( 8 x 3 Set Up)
Fork Foxter with Lock out ! -- Already replaced with Epixon
Shimano Gears
Oversize Bar and Stem
Heavy Duty Alloy Frame Square Tubing
27.5 Bike 5'4 to 5'10
Great Affordable Entry Level 27.5 BikeSpecifications:
Frame: Foxter Alloy 6061 Thick Frame Square Tubing 27.5
Fork: Foxter Suspension with Lock Out
Handlebar: Foxter Oversize Alloy
Stem: Foxter oversize Alloy
Shifter: Shimano 8 Speed Shimano Altus
Brakes: Shimano Hydraulic Brakes
Front Derailer: Shimano Tourney
Rear Derailer: Shimano Tourney
Crank: Foxter Steel Triple Chainwheel
Cogs: Taiwan 8 Speed
Tires: CST Jet 27.5 x 1.95
Seat Clamp: Quick Release
Rotors: Shimano Rotor Discs
it's weight and I already changed the stock fork to epixon fork and I love the result of it.
So should I upgrade the frame or the groupset or the wheelset to lessen it's weight. I only have $400 (converted to dollar) budget
to upgrade my bike. I hope you can answer my question. Thank you!
Update:
These are the specs:Foxter Evans 3.0 Hydraulic Brake Size 27.5 model 2018
24 Speed Gears ! ( 8 x 3 Set Up)
Fork Foxter with Lock out ! -- Already replaced with Epixon
Shimano Gears
Oversize Bar and Stem
Heavy Duty Alloy Frame Square Tubing
27.5 Bike 5'4 to 5'10
Great Affordable Entry Level 27.5 BikeSpecifications:
Frame: Foxter Alloy 6061 Thick Frame Square Tubing 27.5
Fork: Foxter Suspension with Lock Out
Handlebar: Foxter Oversize Alloy
Stem: Foxter oversize Alloy
Shifter: Shimano 8 Speed Shimano Altus
Brakes: Shimano Hydraulic Brakes
Front Derailer: Shimano Tourney
Rear Derailer: Shimano Tourney
Crank: Foxter Steel Triple Chainwheel
Cogs: Taiwan 8 Speed
Tires: CST Jet 27.5 x 1.95
Seat Clamp: Quick Release
Rotors: Shimano Rotor Discs
Last edited by earvinnill; 11-26-18 at 07:35 PM.
#2
Senior Member
I have a Foxter Evans 3.0 Bike which is a low budget bike. I'm planning to reduce
it's weight and I already changed the stock fork to epixon fork and I love the result of it.
So should I upgrade the frame or the groupset or the wheelset to lessen it's weight. I only have $400 (converted to dollar) budget
to upgrade my bike. I hope you can answer my question. Thank you!
it's weight and I already changed the stock fork to epixon fork and I love the result of it.
So should I upgrade the frame or the groupset or the wheelset to lessen it's weight. I only have $400 (converted to dollar) budget
to upgrade my bike. I hope you can answer my question. Thank you!
Dave
#3
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The biggest impact to be made would be if you deemed the current set of tires to be sub-optimal for your use case. Do you need knobby tires? Or do you spend almost all of your time on the road, with a small amount of packed dirt once in awhile? If so, go for some tires with a smoother middle-portion and some tread at the corners/sides. Or go narrower, or both. Nothing will make the bike more of a pleasure to ride on-road more than swapping out off-road tires for on-road tires. Weight reduction is only really a factor if you do a lot of hill climbing, and even then, that bike certainly has the right gears for climbing (though with excessive weight, you wouldn't climb fast).
After that, I'd wait to discover what bugs you most. Tourney drivetrain isn't awesome, but it does work fairly well, and could give you years of service if properly maintained. If the drivetrain does really bug you, you could swap out to a higher end groupset but you'll have to do some research to identify what components can and cannot work together. It would be a shame to upgrade to Alivio rear derailleur and discover it's incompatible with your shifters and cassette, for example. The crankset and chainrings are probably where you could most easily save some weight.
I cannot imagine putting an upgraded frame on a Tourney groupset. But on the other hand I can't imagine putting a Deore-XT groupset on a cheap frame. So ride it as is (with appropriate tires) and get your money's worth out of it.
After that, I'd wait to discover what bugs you most. Tourney drivetrain isn't awesome, but it does work fairly well, and could give you years of service if properly maintained. If the drivetrain does really bug you, you could swap out to a higher end groupset but you'll have to do some research to identify what components can and cannot work together. It would be a shame to upgrade to Alivio rear derailleur and discover it's incompatible with your shifters and cassette, for example. The crankset and chainrings are probably where you could most easily save some weight.
I cannot imagine putting an upgraded frame on a Tourney groupset. But on the other hand I can't imagine putting a Deore-XT groupset on a cheap frame. So ride it as is (with appropriate tires) and get your money's worth out of it.
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Hi! I updated my First post with the specs of the bike. I'm also considering to switch it to tubeless
#5
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If you plan on doing technical trails, add a dropper post.
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The biggest impact to be made would be if you deemed the current set of tires to be sub-optimal for your use case. Do you need knobby tires? Or do you spend almost all of your time on the road, with a small amount of packed dirt once in awhile? If so, go for some tires with a smoother middle-portion and some tread at the corners/sides. Or go narrower, or both. Nothing will make the bike more of a pleasure to ride on-road more than swapping out off-road tires for on-road tires. Weight reduction is only really a factor if you do a lot of hill climbing, and even then, that bike certainly has the right gears for climbing (though with excessive weight, you wouldn't climb fast).
After that, I'd wait to discover what bugs you most. Tourney drivetrain isn't awesome, but it does work fairly well, and could give you years of service if properly maintained. If the drivetrain does really bug you, you could swap out to a higher end groupset but you'll have to do some research to identify what components can and cannot work together. It would be a shame to upgrade to Alivio rear derailleur and discover it's incompatible with your shifters and cassette, for example. The crankset and chainrings are probably where you could most easily save some weight.
I cannot imagine putting an upgraded frame on a Tourney groupset. But on the other hand I can't imagine putting a Deore-XT groupset on a cheap frame. So ride it as is (with appropriate tires) and get your money's worth out of it.
After that, I'd wait to discover what bugs you most. Tourney drivetrain isn't awesome, but it does work fairly well, and could give you years of service if properly maintained. If the drivetrain does really bug you, you could swap out to a higher end groupset but you'll have to do some research to identify what components can and cannot work together. It would be a shame to upgrade to Alivio rear derailleur and discover it's incompatible with your shifters and cassette, for example. The crankset and chainrings are probably where you could most easily save some weight.
I cannot imagine putting an upgraded frame on a Tourney groupset. But on the other hand I can't imagine putting a Deore-XT groupset on a cheap frame. So ride it as is (with appropriate tires) and get your money's worth out of it.
Ohh so if I'm going to buy a deore groupset, it mayhave a chance that it is still not compatible to my bike frame?
Do you have suggestion what crankset and chainring should i buy?
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$400 isn't going to reduce much weight on that bike.
The biggest weight reducer that is noticeable will be the wheelset and a tubeless setup.
But $400 won't get you a wheelset that's much lighter than what you already have.
You're better off saving your pennies and buying a better bike.
The biggest weight reducer that is noticeable will be the wheelset and a tubeless setup.
But $400 won't get you a wheelset that's much lighter than what you already have.
You're better off saving your pennies and buying a better bike.
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$400 isn't going to reduce much weight on that bike.
The biggest weight reducer that is noticeable will be the wheelset and a tubeless setup.
But $400 won't get you a wheelset that's much lighter than what you already have.
You're better off saving your pennies and buying a better bike.
The biggest weight reducer that is noticeable will be the wheelset and a tubeless setup.
But $400 won't get you a wheelset that's much lighter than what you already have.
You're better off saving your pennies and buying a better bike.
Thank you for your suggestion
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So I won't disagree with the "save and buy a new bike" idea. It is likely the most efficient path to weight loss and improved performance. However in order of priority to save weight and improve the ride (imho)
Wheelset + Tubeless - $$$$
1x setup - $
higher end fork - $$$
Drive train (rear cassette especially) - $$$ - $$$$$$$$$$$$$
Carbon cockpit - $$$$$$$$$$$$
Imho, the most important upgrades made to bikes today, if you have a bike worth spending the money using standard sizes
So in my head this is an if else question
If, in the near future you can afford a better bike
Best of luck..
Wheelset + Tubeless - $$$$
1x setup - $
higher end fork - $$$
Drive train (rear cassette especially) - $$$ - $$$$$$$$$$$$$
Carbon cockpit - $$$$$$$$$$$$
Imho, the most important upgrades made to bikes today, if you have a bike worth spending the money using standard sizes
- Dropper Seatpost (will add weight) - there are some great affordable options there days. Just make sure you aren't buying something that can't be transfered
- Wheelset + tubeless
So in my head this is an if else question
If, in the near future you can afford a better bike
Buy better bike
Elseif can't affordBuy better parts
in futurebuy better frame
move parts over
That is likely your decision path and everyone will have recommendations but you kind of need to decide your own priorities. move parts over
Best of luck..
#13
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$400 isn't going to reduce much weight on that bike.
The biggest weight reducer that is noticeable will be the wheelset and a tubeless setup.
But $400 won't get you a wheelset that's much lighter than what you already have.
You're better off saving your pennies and buying a better bike.
The biggest weight reducer that is noticeable will be the wheelset and a tubeless setup.
But $400 won't get you a wheelset that's much lighter than what you already have.
You're better off saving your pennies and buying a better bike.
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You already did the big upgrade - air fork. Now it's little stuff. But the best way to manage this is to take weight off up high first. Carbon bars, stem, etc. Lighter comfy saddle. Then work your way down to the lower stuff.
Dropper seat-post adds weight. If you have the time at the top of a climb, just manually drop your seat post for the run down.
The biggest difference in perceived effect is tires. Tubeless to stop pinch flats, but tread pattern and compound make the real difference. What a soft compound tire will do is night and day different than what a street compound tire will do.
At your budget, I'd put most of the money in the best tires and go tubeless
Dropper seat-post adds weight. If you have the time at the top of a climb, just manually drop your seat post for the run down.
The biggest difference in perceived effect is tires. Tubeless to stop pinch flats, but tread pattern and compound make the real difference. What a soft compound tire will do is night and day different than what a street compound tire will do.
At your budget, I'd put most of the money in the best tires and go tubeless
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+ 1 for lightening the wheels, tubeless, lightish tyres (within reason) ...I did this 25 years ago moving from steel to alum. Rotational weight reduction makes the most difference. Keep an eye on Ebay for bits and bobs, moving to carbon from alloy. Enjoy.
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Replacing functional parts that you are otherwise happy with just to save weight is generally a foolish and expensive thing to do on a bike like that, and a new bike will be a for more affordable way to accomplish this in the end.
That said, a newer, lighter, better set of tires can help both in weight (where you feel it the most) and performance. That is usially a sound investment.
The next thing I would look at if you are riding singletrack is a dropper post even though it adds weight. This is also something you can most likely use on your next bike.
Focus on spending money on things that will transfer to a new bike: pedals, grips, saddle, dropper post, shoes.... and don’t obsess over weight. Performance is far more important.
That said, a newer, lighter, better set of tires can help both in weight (where you feel it the most) and performance. That is usially a sound investment.
The next thing I would look at if you are riding singletrack is a dropper post even though it adds weight. This is also something you can most likely use on your next bike.
Focus on spending money on things that will transfer to a new bike: pedals, grips, saddle, dropper post, shoes.... and don’t obsess over weight. Performance is far more important.
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I'd buy "upgrades" that you could also move to a new bike because they are universal fit, and are mostly contact points.
Tires
Saddle
Grips
Pedals
Handlebar & stem (for comfort and position, not quality or weight)
Accessories, tools, clothes, lights
I'm either-or on the dropper post. It's a good thing to have but doesn't go as well on a bike with no cable routing and a left shifter. And they mostly come in the three most common seat post sizes, which you might not have if you are unlucky.
Other than that keep it clean and lubed, ride it like you stole it, make repairs on your budget.
Tires
Saddle
Grips
Pedals
Handlebar & stem (for comfort and position, not quality or weight)
Accessories, tools, clothes, lights
I'm either-or on the dropper post. It's a good thing to have but doesn't go as well on a bike with no cable routing and a left shifter. And they mostly come in the three most common seat post sizes, which you might not have if you are unlucky.
Other than that keep it clean and lubed, ride it like you stole it, make repairs on your budget.
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