Front derailleur skips the middle gear
04-08-17, 03:27 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Front derailleur skips the middle gear
Hi,
My front derailleur wont pull the second gear and I can't figure out why.
The cable is taut but not tight, the low limit screw is blocking the inner plate of the derailleur so that this one almost touches the chain, and my derailleur has received a good shower of WD40. The cable and cable housing are new too.
What happens is that when I try to put the second gear the derailleur will instead go straight into the 3rd one, skipping the middle gear altogether.
Is there anything that I am missing maybe ?
Thanks
My front derailleur wont pull the second gear and I can't figure out why.
The cable is taut but not tight, the low limit screw is blocking the inner plate of the derailleur so that this one almost touches the chain, and my derailleur has received a good shower of WD40. The cable and cable housing are new too.
What happens is that when I try to put the second gear the derailleur will instead go straight into the 3rd one, skipping the middle gear altogether.
Is there anything that I am missing maybe ?
Thanks
04-08-17, 06:30 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
The new shift wire and housing give a possible clue.
Do you have the shift wire routed properly vs the clamp screw? Many Shimano derailleurs non-obviously require the wire to go OVER the little tab near the screw. If you go under the tab direct to the screw, it shortens the lever arm and makes the shifter throw greater than intended.
Do you have the shift wire routed properly vs the clamp screw? Many Shimano derailleurs non-obviously require the wire to go OVER the little tab near the screw. If you go under the tab direct to the screw, it shortens the lever arm and makes the shifter throw greater than intended.
04-08-17, 07:47 AM
#3
Cantankerous Old Fart
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: On the Tundra of Northern NY State, almost Canada eh?
Posts: 188
Bikes: TBD
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The new shift wire and housing give a possible clue.
Do you have the shift wire routed properly vs the clamp screw? Many Shimano derailleurs non-obviously require the wire to go OVER the little tab near the screw. If you go under the tab direct to the screw, it shortens the lever arm and makes the shifter throw greater than intended.
Do you have the shift wire routed properly vs the clamp screw? Many Shimano derailleurs non-obviously require the wire to go OVER the little tab near the screw. If you go under the tab direct to the screw, it shortens the lever arm and makes the shifter throw greater than intended.
After checking the above:
Screw the cable adjuster all the way in, then back out a few turns. With the rear derailleur in one of the "middle cogs" place the shifter in the middle chainring position and adjust the cable length at the derailleur so that the chain runs in the center of the derailleur. You can now fine tune the adjustment with the cable adjustment.
That;s how I do it when a cable is changed. For more complete, in depth instructions;
HERE ARE SOME INSTRUCTION FROM PARK TOOL
Last edited by XCSKIBUM; 04-08-17 at 07:52 AM.
04-08-17, 09:25 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,094
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4209 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times
in
2,315 Posts
Can the OP shift the ft der with only pulling the bare inner cable (and not the control lever)? If so then the der's adjustments are close to correct. Then the next issue is as mentioned already, the communication link isn't set right or the lever has issues. But one can also check the lever by disconnection the cable from the der and while holding the loose cable end cycle the lever threw it's range to test it.
But since we don't know any actual specs we can only speculate. Is the lever an indexed one? What's the brand? Model? Road or other? Classic case of too little info to really be able to be specific to the OP's problem in replies. Andy.
But since we don't know any actual specs we can only speculate. Is the lever an indexed one? What's the brand? Model? Road or other? Classic case of too little info to really be able to be specific to the OP's problem in replies. Andy.
04-08-17, 04:35 PM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The new shift wire and housing give a possible clue.
Do you have the shift wire routed properly vs the clamp screw? Many Shimano derailleurs non-obviously require the wire to go OVER the little tab near the screw. If you go under the tab direct to the screw, it shortens the lever arm and makes the shifter throw greater than intended.
Do you have the shift wire routed properly vs the clamp screw? Many Shimano derailleurs non-obviously require the wire to go OVER the little tab near the screw. If you go under the tab direct to the screw, it shortens the lever arm and makes the shifter throw greater than intended.
The lever now works soft and natural and I can see the derailleur shifting efortlessly.
Another thing now is that it doesnt shift from middle to first gear but I attribute that to the cable tension/limit screws, I'll run through everything again to make sure it's set properly.
Really appreciate all this anonymous help, thanks everyone !
