Clunker
#1
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Thread Starter
Clunker
I've been having some pain in my left wrist while riding; especially over bumps (I mostly ride on the pavement these days). I found out from my Dr. that it is not a recurring sprain, but a bone disease. And, it's not going to get better.
So, I decided I need a more upright bike, to take the pressure off my hands. I don't really like any of the hybrid style bikes at all. But, I do like the look of a 'clunker' with BMX bars. So, I picked up a vintage Ross Super Deluxe frame. It looks pretty cool; dual 1-pc top tubes/seat stays and cross tubes. But, it weighs a ton. And, the bottom bracket is really pretty high. Meaning I'd have to get even taller bars that I had hoped to make it work.
On the other hand, I do have a bunch of tubing I was going to use to build an all-rounder (basically a flat-bar gravel bike). What if I just pulled the curved top tubes off the Ross, tossed the rest, and built up a basically new frame? The Ross is mostly brazed together (no fillets) so should be pretty easy to remove those curved tubes. The new bike will be fillet brazed.
Will be much lighter ( though maybe not 'light' per se), have resonable geom, and still look the part.
This is where I'm at...
The Ross Super Deluxe (not mine, my frame is maroon and rust colored);
My all-rounder bike with the Ross top tubes/seat stays:
This is my current frankenbuild that will provide the other necessary components (1x9 drivetrain, Shimano XT 4-pot calipers, wheels, tires, disks, etc.). This frame is an Acces XCL 26er with a Mr. Ride rigid fork running 700c-35 Conti Double Fighter tires.
I'm open to criticism and ridicule, if necessary.
So, I decided I need a more upright bike, to take the pressure off my hands. I don't really like any of the hybrid style bikes at all. But, I do like the look of a 'clunker' with BMX bars. So, I picked up a vintage Ross Super Deluxe frame. It looks pretty cool; dual 1-pc top tubes/seat stays and cross tubes. But, it weighs a ton. And, the bottom bracket is really pretty high. Meaning I'd have to get even taller bars that I had hoped to make it work.
On the other hand, I do have a bunch of tubing I was going to use to build an all-rounder (basically a flat-bar gravel bike). What if I just pulled the curved top tubes off the Ross, tossed the rest, and built up a basically new frame? The Ross is mostly brazed together (no fillets) so should be pretty easy to remove those curved tubes. The new bike will be fillet brazed.
Will be much lighter ( though maybe not 'light' per se), have resonable geom, and still look the part.
This is where I'm at...
The Ross Super Deluxe (not mine, my frame is maroon and rust colored);
My all-rounder bike with the Ross top tubes/seat stays:
This is my current frankenbuild that will provide the other necessary components (1x9 drivetrain, Shimano XT 4-pot calipers, wheels, tires, disks, etc.). This frame is an Acces XCL 26er with a Mr. Ride rigid fork running 700c-35 Conti Double Fighter tires.
I'm open to criticism and ridicule, if necessary.
Last edited by shelgame; 08-06-21 at 06:52 PM.
#2
Randomhead
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It's not that hard to bend tubes like that, all you need is some plywood to make a form.
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#3
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I think that's a great project. You can probably lower the BB a bit (270 mm height) with 170mm crank arms.
#4
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How do you do this? I'm still looking for a good redneck way to bend SS-- the exact bend you want depends on the frame size and the tyre size so it's something it would be nice to be able to do.
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#8
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I ordered a DT as the only piece I had was too short; and some cable guides. Looks like they shipped today from Nova.
I also had to order some 80/20 bits for my jig. Should be in this week. Maybe start the fun next week sometime...
I also had to order some 80/20 bits for my jig. Should be in this week. Maybe start the fun next week sometime...
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#9
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I think what you are doing is really super! I owned bicycle stores in San Diego, which gave me exposure to a lot of different handlebar types. At some point I discovered the swept back Wald 395 bars, I believe. I ended up building a frame with those swept back bars in mind, they definitely will help with reducing hand pressure. With the Wald bars, the diameter is such that putting trigger shifters or grip shift is in the cards. Since hand pressure is your enemy/ something you are trying to minimize, I would recommend "ergo" grips with locking rings on the end, so they can't rotate.
#10
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Thread Starter
I think what you are doing is really super! I owned bicycle stores in San Diego, which gave me exposure to a lot of different handlebar types. At some point I discovered the swept back Wald 395 bars, I believe. I ended up building a frame with those swept back bars in mind, they definitely will help with reducing hand pressure. With the Wald bars, the diameter is such that putting trigger shifters or grip shift is in the cards. Since hand pressure is your enemy/ something you are trying to minimize, I would recommend "ergo" grips with locking rings on the end, so they can't rotate.
I'm not sure if I want BMX type bars for a more upright position, or go full cruiser style with swept back bars. I don't really like the cruiser style; but that might be where I end up.
#11
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Thread Starter
I originally planned to make my own rear dropouts. But, in the interest of time, I decided to just buy the Allotec ISO rear dropouts. They should arrive Monday.
I'm going to (hopefully) start assembling the jig over the weekend. Maybe fit some tubes.
I'm going to (hopefully) start assembling the jig over the weekend. Maybe fit some tubes.
#12
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Thread Starter
In a brazen display of efficiency, the USPS has my dropouts out for delivery today. I might get more done this weekend than I thought...
#13
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Thread Starter
Progress pics. Jig is setup. Seat tube is fitted. Seat tube top cone needs a post. I'll have to figure that out next.
And, a pic of the top tubes/seat stays (IE, my donor frame)...
And, a pic of the top tubes/seat stays (IE, my donor frame)...
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#14
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Thread Starter
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#15
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Thread Starter
I think what you are doing is really super! I owned bicycle stores in San Diego, which gave me exposure to a lot of different handlebar types. At some point I discovered the swept back Wald 395 bars, I believe. I ended up building a frame with those swept back bars in mind, they definitely will help with reducing hand pressure. With the Wald bars, the diameter is such that putting trigger shifters or grip shift is in the cards. Since hand pressure is your enemy/ something you are trying to minimize, I would recommend "ergo" grips with locking rings on the end, so they can't rotate.
I ordered 2 different bars to try on this bike - a 3" rise alloy bar and a 5" rise CroMo bar. Both are about 30' wide.
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#16
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Maybe it's not clear in the pics, but I have little problem. The curved top tubes do not quite reach the rear dropouts. They reach, but I'd have to attached them at the 'swaged' portion of the tube. Not ideal, I think. I need another half inch.
Option 1: Shorten the wheelbase a half inch. Not the geometry that I wanted. But, would still work. Just need a little longer stem. This isn't a race bike, so that's not the end of the world. I have to reset the headtube on the jig. Again, not the end of the world. It's a very flexible jig after all.
Option 2: 'extend' the curved tubes with an external sleeve. This feels like much more of a hack to me. Maybe if I made the end of the sleeve decorative, it might work. But, I'm still not liking it.
Option 3: Scrap these tubes and make my own. Well, I really wanted some part of this bike to be 'vintage'. No real explanation as to why. But, I'd prefer to use these tubes if at all possible.
So, I guess that leads me to option 1...
Option 1: Shorten the wheelbase a half inch. Not the geometry that I wanted. But, would still work. Just need a little longer stem. This isn't a race bike, so that's not the end of the world. I have to reset the headtube on the jig. Again, not the end of the world. It's a very flexible jig after all.
Option 2: 'extend' the curved tubes with an external sleeve. This feels like much more of a hack to me. Maybe if I made the end of the sleeve decorative, it might work. But, I'm still not liking it.
Option 3: Scrap these tubes and make my own. Well, I really wanted some part of this bike to be 'vintage'. No real explanation as to why. But, I'd prefer to use these tubes if at all possible.
So, I guess that leads me to option 1...
#17
Senior Member
Maybe you could ease the bend (increase radius) of the twin tubes and lower the intersection with the seat tube? (Edit: in order to effectively shorten the tubes)
Also, wondering why there are through holes in the HT.
Also, wondering why there are through holes in the HT.
Last edited by tuz; 09-02-21 at 03:16 PM.
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#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was wondering when someone would notice that
Internal cable routing. This will be a 1x9 drivetrain, with disk hydraulic brakes. But, I don't want there to be cables hung all over it. So, rear derailleur cable goes thru the right TT, rear brake hose thru the left.
Internal cable routing. This will be a 1x9 drivetrain, with disk hydraulic brakes. But, I don't want there to be cables hung all over it. So, rear derailleur cable goes thru the right TT, rear brake hose thru the left.
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#19
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Worked on the fork today. This came off a Diamondback Response. The frame was alloy, but the fork was rigid CroMo. It's the basic shape that I wanted, and it will fit probably up to a 700-50 tire; eventhough I think the bike was a 27.5' tire bike.
Took the canti posts off, and added the disk tab. I also added hose guides, after this pic...
Took the canti posts off, and added the disk tab. I also added hose guides, after this pic...
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#23
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It's on the bike stand waiting for me to finish the fillets. But, first I made sure the internal cable routing was going to work. Looks OK to me!
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#25
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Fillets! I'm still working on my technique. They don't look so great naked, but they'll clean up.
The easy parts are done. Now on to the clean up.
The easy parts are done. Now on to the clean up.
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