Are these bars too high?
#1
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Are these bars too high?
EDIT: PLEASE SEE THE UPDATED PIC AT POST #38 . I've had that Nashbar touring frame & fork in a box since December 2009 before I decided to start building up the frameset. It's been years since I rode with drop bars. So, I wanted to know, if I install the stem that high, are the bars too high?
I'm also thinking of pushing the saddle a bit forward and turn up the bars a little. This is the 54cm model (which can take the Michelin Cross Max 42mm tires, actually marked 40c lol and 53mm SKS Bluemels fenders I have on there although there isn't huge clearance in the middle of the rear fender). I'm guessing I might have been maybe better with a 53cm but they only had a 52cm (which did not take large tires from what I read) below the 54cm size.
I'm also thinking of pushing the saddle a bit forward and turn up the bars a little. This is the 54cm model (which can take the Michelin Cross Max 42mm tires, actually marked 40c lol and 53mm SKS Bluemels fenders I have on there although there isn't huge clearance in the middle of the rear fender). I'm guessing I might have been maybe better with a 53cm but they only had a 52cm (which did not take large tires from what I read) below the 54cm size.
Last edited by hybridbkrdr; 10-26-19 at 03:42 PM.
#2
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Um... You are asking bicycle fit-specific questions and all you show us is a picture of the bike? How on Earth are we supposed to decide whether this bike is properly fitted to your body and riding technique by looking at its picture?
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Something is not quite right with your fork crown race, unless it's some kind of suspension.
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Imagine a gym full of people doing toe touches. Some can just barely touch their toes, some can barely touch their knees and some can flatten their palms against the floor. Now come up with a single seat-to-handlebar plan that will suit all of those people.
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Oh no, another drop bar thread.
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I've had that Nashbar touring frame & fork in a box since December 2009 before I decided to start building up the frameset. It's been years since I rode with drop bars. So, I wanted to know, if I install the stem that high, are the bars too high?
I'm also thinking of pushing the saddle a bit forward and turn up the bars a little. This is the 54cm model (which can take the Michelin Cross Max 42mm tires, actually marked 40c lol and 53mm SKS Bluemels fenders I have on there although there isn't huge clearance in the middle of the rear fender). I'm guessing I might have been maybe better with a 53cm but they only had a 52cm (which did not take large tires from what I read) below the 54cm size.
I'm also thinking of pushing the saddle a bit forward and turn up the bars a little. This is the 54cm model (which can take the Michelin Cross Max 42mm tires, actually marked 40c lol and 53mm SKS Bluemels fenders I have on there although there isn't huge clearance in the middle of the rear fender). I'm guessing I might have been maybe better with a 53cm but they only had a 52cm (which did not take large tires from what I read) below the 54cm size.
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#8
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I can't tell if your saddle is too high, either.
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Wow that seat tube seems super relaxed, like 71degrees relaxed. I'm guessing it's an optical illusion.
And that seatpost looks like there is a ton of setback, not sure if it's an illusion.
As for bar height, that has already been answered. Still felt like piling on though, so...how would any of us know if the bars are too high for you?
And that seatpost looks like there is a ton of setback, not sure if it's an illusion.
As for bar height, that has already been answered. Still felt like piling on though, so...how would any of us know if the bars are too high for you?
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The bars are fine, but something looks wrong with the crown race. Shouldn't it be butting up against the head tube?
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It looks like the OP is just test fitting the stem and bars. (Note lack of cables.) Yes, the fork isn't fully installed in the headtube and the headset isn't adjusted. You can see that the top tube angle is not right, either.
Personally, I wouldn't have that many spacers beneath the stem. Neither would I rotate the bars back. It's fine in that sense.
Maybe not a setback seatpost, as the seat tube is pretty slack already.
My thoughts. It depends on how you intend to ride this. Leisurely toodling through the countryside? The small seat-to-bar drop is fine.
Personally, I wouldn't have that many spacers beneath the stem. Neither would I rotate the bars back. It's fine in that sense.
Maybe not a setback seatpost, as the seat tube is pretty slack already.
My thoughts. It depends on how you intend to ride this. Leisurely toodling through the countryside? The small seat-to-bar drop is fine.
#14
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Fitting has to start with getting your body positioned relative to the bottom bracket. That means both saddle height and fore/aft position. After that's done, you can move on to stem length and height.
The stem looks like it's horizontal, so it has a -17 degree angle. Using a huge spacer with this stem angle is not the best way to get the bars up to that height. Use a 0 degree or maybe a +6 and less spacer.
The bar height for a touring bike might be higher than a racing bike, but If you really need the bars that high, then maybe some stretching exercises are in order.
The stem looks like it's horizontal, so it has a -17 degree angle. Using a huge spacer with this stem angle is not the best way to get the bars up to that height. Use a 0 degree or maybe a +6 and less spacer.
The bar height for a touring bike might be higher than a racing bike, but If you really need the bars that high, then maybe some stretching exercises are in order.
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Try it. If you like it, you're done.
If not, it's possible to move all those spacers above the bar -- looks like that'd drop the bars 3" or so. If the stem is a 4-bolt type, that's trivial to do, otherwise, it might depend on how much slack is in the cables. You can also adjust the bar angle if you like -- it looks good to me, buy YMMV.
All that assumes the bike is properly assembled to begin with (which, as noted, it wasn't when the picture was taken).
If not, it's possible to move all those spacers above the bar -- looks like that'd drop the bars 3" or so. If the stem is a 4-bolt type, that's trivial to do, otherwise, it might depend on how much slack is in the cables. You can also adjust the bar angle if you like -- it looks good to me, buy YMMV.
All that assumes the bike is properly assembled to begin with (which, as noted, it wasn't when the picture was taken).
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He wants to know if there is anything abnormal about his bike's configuration. There isn't - you commonly see bikes set up that way. OP didn't ask about fit.
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Yeah, what's going on there ?
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The seat setback looks ridiculous. Your bum is nearly over the rear axle. And the hoods are past the front axle. WTH
The bike is too SMALL, 56cm at the least.
The bike is too SMALL, 56cm at the least.
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Spacers under the head tube? A novel way of adding height and slacking out your geometry. Seriously, that's not right. That seat tube angle would look normal without that gap below the head tube. It looks like it was actually set up this way because the saddle looks fairly level with this setup. Can you explain what is going on with this?
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With this preliminary setup,
it's hard to imagine why you think you would have been better on a smaller frame.
Bars level with saddle is common for touring bikes.
it's hard to imagine why you think you would have been better on a smaller frame.
Bars level with saddle is common for touring bikes.
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