brianhamp

Here are some pictures of the progress so far on my 1949 Raleigh Popular.
I didn't install the new tires and tubes because the others are holding air and I won't be riding it till spring of next year. Will install them then.
Needs rear brake pads as the ones I ordered are the wrong size.
Dyno is working however the lights do not work. Front light is missing a bulb and the rear one is just not working.
Rear Sturmey Archer AW is serviced and shifting very smooth. When I opened it it was very clean for its age.
Dyno is cleaned up and serviced and working great.
New Brooks seat I had laying around because I really dont like it. Will be installing a B17 soon.
There seems to be bolt holes on the frame for a full chain case so I will order one and see how it goes.
Removed the silver paint someone had painted it prior to me owning it. That is why there are no decals as they didn't handle all the rubbing to remove old silver paint.
28 x 1 1/2 Dunlop wheels. Made in England. Some rust spots I can't seen to removed. 32 spoke front and 40 spoke rear wheels.

Before picture

cudak888 

Just fantastic.

That B.66 (?) doesn't look bad at all though; certainly more suiting to the bike than a B.17. Try tilting the nose up until the rear of the saddle is level with the top tube, like the original saddle (speaking of which, if it isn't torn, keep it). That should solve the initial comfort issue.

-Kurt

BigChief 

You're doing a great job on this. Wonderful that you could restore the original finish as well as you did. Looks very good. All these bikes came with a lug on the chain stay for an enclosed chain case, but there's no doubt the hockey stick version here is original. They called it "attractive" in the catalogs. The stainless spokes, trigger shifter and cable is original too. Nice. Raleigh did offer this 22 inch frame version in the US in the late 70s, but it's rare in older bikes. Here in the US anyway. As you can see in the catalog photos this bike originally had short (about 3 1/2" long) grips. They were either natural rubber or celluloid and very few survive today. Grips are always a problem on these early bikes, but the (R) grips sold on eBay are a very good reproduction of Raleigh grips from the late 50s and are the best new option I know of. Your bike would originally had dual quill rubber block pedals. Hard to find, but occasionally show up on eBay. I'll find a picture for you. These are from my 51 Rudge. Yours would have been the same except the blocks would have had the Raleigh logo.

USAZorro

Wow. That's come along very nicely. Can you post a picture of one of the correct brake pads? I have a set of 4 NOS ones that I got about 10 years back for a rod brake project that I never got to, and which I no longer have. If I have proper ones, they're yours for the price of your address.

bikemig 

This is a fantastic job.

bikemig 

I think a lot of us refurbish bikes but you took on a big job here and did a great job. My last 2 refurb jobs were an early 70s Motobecane Grand Record and an early 70s Fuji Finest:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ld-thread.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ld-thread.html


I really like 70s era racing bikes because they typically have generous room for 32c tires (the Moto is especially generous since it has 27 x 1 and 1/4 tires). I have two in the build queue for next spring: a reynolds 531 Libertas and a Mercier 300.

I am also a fan of vintage mountain bikes. They're comfy to ride just like that Raleigh you refurbished only with more gears and fatter tires.

USAZorro

If these look like they'll work, pm me your address.

sykerocker 

Absolutely beautiful. Nice work.

And thanks for the kick in the butt reminding me that I need to get back on the 1935-ish Armstrong ladies frame real soon now. Military Thru the Ages is only five months away.

3alarmer 

...if you look arouind online, you can probably find some appropriate transfers for that bicycle. Here's the H Lloyd site, where they have some 40's Raleigh transfers for restoration. Here are some photos of a 1949 Tourist model, to give you some idea of the lettering style on the down tube and chain guard lettering. There are also other places that sell reproduction bicycle decals, and the Popular appears to have sported only a few of them. There's also an online version of the 1948 Raleigh Catalog, which is handy. One of the members here keeps it up and running.

sykerocker 

I envy you that you found a model in a 22" frame. My '72 Tourist (which has turned into my daily ride, leaving all those fancy road bikes in the barn ignored) is the usual 24" which works - barely - but always has me apprehensive when it comes to fast panic stops.

3alarmer 

...everyone needs something to do.

sykerocker 

I've got the same situation. My other daily commuter is a 69 Sprite (S5 hub), 23-1/2" frame (my proper size). I try to split the riding equally between them, but find that the Tourist gets picked way more often.

BigChief 

Yes, those early post war AW hubs are the best quality. Should you want to change the overall gearing you could either use a threaded cog and set the chain line with shims or replace the driver with a more modern splined type so you could use the variety of choices you have with dished spline cogs. I have a 22 tooth cog on my 1970 DL-1. I replaced the threaded driver on my 51 Rudge with a splined type for that reason. The best new rubber block I know of are the MKS 3000. Those are hard to find, but the 3000R with reflectors are all easily available. They at least have the diamond shaped end plates. Personally, I never liked the blocky rectangular end plates on the 70s Raleigh reflector pedals.
Here's an eBay ad for early dual quill Raleigh pedals. 60 bucks...yikes, but I figured you would like to see what the originals looked like.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-RAL...cAAOSwkjJcPKOP

cudak888 

Definitely leave the B66 there. I'd even put the original back if it's not torn; it might clean up rather nice with a light coat of saddle soap.

I can't imagine tolerating a B66 tilted down that much. Here's how mine sits on my '51 Sports.




-Kurt

BigChief 

Notice Kurt is using MKS touring pedals on his vintage Sports. I also use these on any bike I put serious mileage on. Maybe not period correct, but they work great and look fine in my opinion. Here they are on my DL-1 daily rider.

cudak888 

You haven't seen mine up close. Enjoy the harlequin effect of the black enamel mixed with the original green - makes it interesting.

Agreed, but just be careful if you like to pedal through tight turns and have a low bottom bracket. They're wide and can scrape.

-Kurt