Convert Hybrid To Gravel Bike ???
04-28-18, 07:14 PM
#1
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Convert Hybrid To Gravel Bike ???
Has anyone converted a Hybrid to a gravel bike and if so how do you know what the maximum width tyre your rim can take is ... I guess to work out the maximum width tyre that'll go between the forks you just take some calipers measure it and knock off a couple of mm or have I missed something??
I guess you'd also need new brake levers that are made for drop handlebars that have your gear shifters on?
Is there anything else I've forgotten that may need to be done?
I'm asking on behalf of a friend as I feel a bit guilty .. we stared riding quite a lot on 26" MTB's ... I went and bought a 2nd hand 29er and wish I'd done a bit more research 1st and bought a gravel bike instead ... because my 29er was quicker he then bought a really nice Cube one .... if I sell mine to buy a gravel bike I won't lose much but he'd dump quite a lot .... he does have a nice carbon hybrid though that he doesn't really use as the roads / paths round here can be a bit bumpy and would at least men it got used rather than just gathering dust.
I guess you'd also need new brake levers that are made for drop handlebars that have your gear shifters on?
Is there anything else I've forgotten that may need to be done?
I'm asking on behalf of a friend as I feel a bit guilty .. we stared riding quite a lot on 26" MTB's ... I went and bought a 2nd hand 29er and wish I'd done a bit more research 1st and bought a gravel bike instead ... because my 29er was quicker he then bought a really nice Cube one .... if I sell mine to buy a gravel bike I won't lose much but he'd dump quite a lot .... he does have a nice carbon hybrid though that he doesn't really use as the roads / paths round here can be a bit bumpy and would at least men it got used rather than just gathering dust.
04-28-18, 09:36 PM
#2
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The geometry of some hybrids are designed for flat bars and finding the right fit for drops can be tricky.
Handlebars, stem, shifters, brake levers and brakes (or travel agents) are needed off the top of my head. In addition, sometimes derailleurs on hybrids are not compatible with road shifters.
Handlebars, stem, shifters, brake levers and brakes (or travel agents) are needed off the top of my head. In addition, sometimes derailleurs on hybrids are not compatible with road shifters.
04-29-18, 01:12 AM
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I did a hybrid to drop conversion a few months ago.
I ended up stripping it essentially down to a bare frame and replacing a bunch of stuff to get the bike like I wanted. I did put on a pretty large rear cassette, and a new wide range front crankset to get the gearing I wanted, and because I do a lot of hauling cargo, as well as more touring aspirations.
Vintage friction bar end shifters seemed to work for my needs.
Hopefully your CF bike is a little more advanced than my Coda, but the Coda worked well for my needs.
I ended up stripping it essentially down to a bare frame and replacing a bunch of stuff to get the bike like I wanted. I did put on a pretty large rear cassette, and a new wide range front crankset to get the gearing I wanted, and because I do a lot of hauling cargo, as well as more touring aspirations.
Vintage friction bar end shifters seemed to work for my needs.
Hopefully your CF bike is a little more advanced than my Coda, but the Coda worked well for my needs.
04-29-18, 08:55 AM
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Here's my hybrid to cross conversion a few years ago:
BEFORE: Originally a fitness hybrid.
AFTER: The only thing original on this is the frame.
Currently used as a commuter, seen here with 45 mm studded tires.
BEFORE: Originally a fitness hybrid.
AFTER: The only thing original on this is the frame.
Currently used as a commuter, seen here with 45 mm studded tires.
04-29-18, 09:51 AM
#5
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Thanks for everyone's input .... it sounds as though it's more complex than I thought and he's not he sort that would take one a project like changing crankset / derailleurs / cassette and judging by the responses the ideal gearing for a gavel bike is different from a hybrid of have I misunderstood?
04-29-18, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for everyone's input .... it sounds as though it's more complex than I thought and he's not he sort that would take one a project like changing crankset / derailleurs / cassette and judging by the responses the ideal gearing for a gavel bike is different from a hybrid of have I misunderstood?
My Jamis was about 20 years old, built up with low to mid level components, and it was time for an upgrade. Plus, I like a little higher gearing, even if I'm not riding in the top gear all the time.
Yours is a CF bike, so it may start with a little newer and better components. The ease of conversion may depend a bit on exactly what it is built with. Sora? Tiagra?
Also, I built mine for commuting/utility use, and probably touring, not specifically gravel which may have different requirements.
Even "gravel" will vary in definitions from steep logging roads to smooth rails to trails.
This spring, I'm working on a gravel specific build which will be based on an older MTB. And, specifically for really rough railroad ballast plus goatheads.
04-29-18, 11:40 AM
#7
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Might be an idea if I ask him and find out what it actually is 
... I'll post back when I know!!
... I'll post back when I know!!
04-29-18, 02:00 PM
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Ive been slowly doing exactly this with my jamis commuter1. I however dont want drops and am very content with a flatbar, tho im definatly adding bar-ends for an extra hand position.
i emailed jamis about the max tire width on my frame to which they replied 35mm. Not as wide as id like but its a hybrid in its original state.
ive swapped to double wall wheels, 8spd wide cassette and trigger shifter.
its a toss up most days which i feel is my fave bike between my hybrid/grinder and my actual mtb.
i emailed jamis about the max tire width on my frame to which they replied 35mm. Not as wide as id like but its a hybrid in its original state.
ive swapped to double wall wheels, 8spd wide cassette and trigger shifter.
its a toss up most days which i feel is my fave bike between my hybrid/grinder and my actual mtb.
05-01-18, 04:30 PM
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Thanks for everyone's input .... it sounds as though it's more complex than I thought and he's not he sort that would take one a project like changing crankset / derailleurs / cassette and judging by the responses the ideal gearing for a gavel bike is different from a hybrid of have I misunderstood?
05-03-18, 04:30 AM
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Why can't he just ride his hybrid on gravel? I do all the time.
Or do a simple conversion - slap on the widest tires that will fit (make sure they're not too slick) and then slide on a pair of Origin8 drop bar ends.
Or do a simple conversion - slap on the widest tires that will fit (make sure they're not too slick) and then slide on a pair of Origin8 drop bar ends.
05-03-18, 05:03 AM
#11
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He tried the existing tyres once and found it really hard / uncomfortable on the gravel section .... we did discussed wider tyres and I'm sure he'll try it at some stage but if it wasn't too much of a job to put on drop handlebars as well would probably take it in somewhere and let them do it all at the same time rather than doing it himself .... I haven't been back as he's been absolutely buried with work and had a no show Monday morning by someone so has been doing 2 people's jobs but I'm hoping he's going to be out for a ride this evening if he can get away at a reasonable time.
05-03-18, 09:12 AM
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The drop bars aren't hard to do, but they'll probably need a lot of new parts, so it gets expensive. Drop bars usually have a 26.0mm clamp diameter, which probably doesn't match what he has now (25.4mm clamp diameter), so he'd need a new stem to do it right. Brake levers aren't hard to come by (and are inexpensive), but the ones with integrated shifters are usually pretty costly, especially if bought new. You can try to find a set used at a decent price. Microshift is a newer company making "brifters", and have decent reviews. You can get a basic set for less than $100. Plus the cost of the bar and stem, and it's going to be $100 or better to do a basic swap, and that's just the cockpit. Plus tires and any other parts.
To your question about the maximum width the rim can take...unless your rim is uncommonly narrow, any rim you have should be able to handle any tire that will physically fit in the frame. I'm assuming your frame will limit you to something like a 45mm tire or narrower. Almost any rim will be fine with a 45mm tire.
To your question about the maximum width the rim can take...unless your rim is uncommonly narrow, any rim you have should be able to handle any tire that will physically fit in the frame. I'm assuming your frame will limit you to something like a 45mm tire or narrower. Almost any rim will be fine with a 45mm tire.
05-03-18, 09:51 AM
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I'd leave the flat bars on it. What advantage is there in changing it? Add bar ends if he'd like them. I'd look at a different set of tires which I'm sure his rims will accommodate. A nice fat tire with low pressure should keep him comfy. Keep it as simple as you can and you'll be happier with the results.
05-03-18, 09:53 AM
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The drop bars aren't hard to do, but they'll probably need a lot of new parts, so it gets expensive. Drop bars usually have a 26.0mm clamp diameter, which probably doesn't match what he has now (25.4mm clamp diameter), so he'd need a new stem to do it right. Brake levers aren't hard to come by (and are inexpensive), but the ones with integrated shifters are usually pretty costly, especially if bought new. You can try to find a set used at a decent price. Microshift is a newer company making "brifters", and have decent reviews. You can get a basic set for less than $100. Plus the cost of the bar and stem, and it's going to be $100 or better to do a basic swap, and that's just the cockpit. Plus tires and any other parts.
To your question about the maximum width the rim can take...unless your rim is uncommonly narrow, any rim you have should be able to handle any tire that will physically fit in the frame. I'm assuming your frame will limit you to something like a 45mm tire or narrower. Almost any rim will be fine with a 45mm tire.
To your question about the maximum width the rim can take...unless your rim is uncommonly narrow, any rim you have should be able to handle any tire that will physically fit in the frame. I'm assuming your frame will limit you to something like a 45mm tire or narrower. Almost any rim will be fine with a 45mm tire.
05-03-18, 11:35 AM
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Can't use most drop bar brake levers or (to the best of my knowledge) any integrated brake lever/shifters. His hybrid almost certainly has long pulll v-brakes and drop bar brake levers are made for short pull brakes. Tektro makes long-pull drop bar levers (I have a set for an old MTB drop bar conversion) but I don't have any with the shifter integrated.
05-03-18, 11:41 AM
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The Tektro RL520 levers work fine with linear pull brakes, but one doesn't get all the fancy "brifter" options with them.
You will loose the cable adjustment at the levers, and should source noodles with adjusters.
Another option is to use a Problem Solvers Travel Agent which is designed to replace the noodle with a pulley to allow standard brake levers to work with the linear pull brakes.
Converting to Cantilevers?
You will loose the cable adjustment at the levers, and should source noodles with adjusters.
Another option is to use a Problem Solvers Travel Agent which is designed to replace the noodle with a pulley to allow standard brake levers to work with the linear pull brakes.
Converting to Cantilevers?
07-21-18, 10:24 AM
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I converted a 90s Giant Cypress into a gravel bike. Got rid of the cheap suspension fork, which did almost nothing and replaced it with a super light, rigid aluminum fork—saved a ton of weight. Replaced flat bar with drops and Shimano 8 speed brifters. For the front brakes I used road disc calipers. Started out with 160mm discs but stopping power was pretty mediocre. After switching to 203mm I feel braking is finally acceptable.
For the rears I opted for cantilever brakes because the frame does not have disc mounts. I’ve used v-brakes with Travel Agents previously but I don’t like how the cable gets embedded into the pulley and becomes impossible to adjust later. I’m pretty happy with the cantilever setup.
A few minor issues: it’s hard to find 8 speed cassettes with a good range and most that are available are made for low end bikes. I may switch to 10 speed in the future. I would not even consider Shimano 9 speed as they seem to be the most unreliable.
Thr fork I sourced is for a mountain bike which lifts up the front end quite a bit. That changes the geometry of the bike and I can feel it in the handling too but I also like the more upright position. It’s my most comfortable bike, with 42mm tires at 35 psi.
Having done this though, I think that economically it does not make sense to do a custom build unless you have all of the parts just hanging around. A cheap new gravel bike now starts at around $500.
For the rears I opted for cantilever brakes because the frame does not have disc mounts. I’ve used v-brakes with Travel Agents previously but I don’t like how the cable gets embedded into the pulley and becomes impossible to adjust later. I’m pretty happy with the cantilever setup.
A few minor issues: it’s hard to find 8 speed cassettes with a good range and most that are available are made for low end bikes. I may switch to 10 speed in the future. I would not even consider Shimano 9 speed as they seem to be the most unreliable.
Thr fork I sourced is for a mountain bike which lifts up the front end quite a bit. That changes the geometry of the bike and I can feel it in the handling too but I also like the more upright position. It’s my most comfortable bike, with 42mm tires at 35 psi.
Having done this though, I think that economically it does not make sense to do a custom build unless you have all of the parts just hanging around. A cheap new gravel bike now starts at around $500.
Last edited by ttruong; 07-21-18 at 10:34 AM.
07-21-18, 02:34 PM
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Welcome! Great first post. What kind of range are you looking for in an 8-speed cassette? And what have you heard or read about reliability on 9-speed?
07-21-18, 04:00 PM
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I installed a Biopace double crank that only goes down to a 42t so I wanted at least 36t for the cassette. Most of them look pretty heavy too.
As as for the STI shifters, there is a guy who has made a business out of fixing Shimano STI and he gets most of his business fixing the 9-speed variety. I’ve only had experience with 10speed shifters and they are not very reliable either. I’ve had them gum up and not shift in one direction or even at all. In fact, on two of my road bikes I’ve “downgraded” to friction shifters for the ultimate in reliability.
As as for the STI shifters, there is a guy who has made a business out of fixing Shimano STI and he gets most of his business fixing the 9-speed variety. I’ve only had experience with 10speed shifters and they are not very reliable either. I’ve had them gum up and not shift in one direction or even at all. In fact, on two of my road bikes I’ve “downgraded” to friction shifters for the ultimate in reliability.
07-23-18, 06:08 AM
#20
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Sirrus to gravel
Here is my 2011 sirrus I converted to gravel. Used dura ace bar end shifters along with shimano xt derailleurs and 9 spd cassette. Mountain crank triple up front converted to 44 x 26 double. And soma brake levers. Oops this isn't the right pic with the components.
Last edited by tclong03; 07-23-18 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Pic dont match latest components
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