What should I be looking out for? (upgrades)
04-17-19, 06:02 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
What should I be looking out for? (upgrades)
so i've had my first low end roadbike for about a month ish now. i can already see myself wanting some upgrades in the future when it comes to everything involving the drive train (please excuse my ignorance if i'm using wrong term). My bike is a btwin triban 100, ive read some things here and there about it not being worth the upgrades but at same tiem i saw some vid about a brazilian guy that upgraded gears shifters, crank set and couple other things using used parts.
now my idea was to just keep an eye out from time to time at the local equivalents to craigslist, and buy bit bit by bit until i have everything and either try and do the work myself (with bikeforum and youtube help) or take it to LBS. And this is where the problem comes in, i am mostly ignorant about what i would even have to be looking for when it comes to parts. So what should i be looking for and snatching up if i see it in the local online marketplaces?
Edit: if this makes more sense in bike mechanics subforum please move there.
now my idea was to just keep an eye out from time to time at the local equivalents to craigslist, and buy bit bit by bit until i have everything and either try and do the work myself (with bikeforum and youtube help) or take it to LBS. And this is where the problem comes in, i am mostly ignorant about what i would even have to be looking for when it comes to parts. So what should i be looking for and snatching up if i see it in the local online marketplaces?
Edit: if this makes more sense in bike mechanics subforum please move there.
Last edited by phile; 04-17-19 at 06:06 AM.
04-17-19, 11:05 AM
#2
WALSTIB
Reviews not to bad for the bike on Road.cc . I say ride the good out of it first unless theres something you really don't like about it.
04-17-19, 02:24 PM
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it is your bike and your money .... and your life.
So let me tell you how to do everything.
Seriously, you do Not want to go the "upgrade" route unless you have a ton of time, a ton of bike-specific tools, and ton of basic mechanical ability, and six tons of cash.
Bike mechanics are simple and easy, but there are still ten thousand little things that can go wrong. Some cost time, some cost money, some cost big money. Plus there are changing standards which create incompatibilities---you buy a part form the same company which made the original part, and they look the same, but the new one doesn't work with all the old stuff so now you have to buy All new stuff.
Then there are the tiny important parts you bend, break, or drop in the grass or which roll down the storm drain.
I do most of my own work (and occasionally pay others to fix my errors) but i spent a Lot of time making mistakes. it is a lot easier now with all the YouTube videos .... and a lot of it is worth learning if you are going to have a bike .... but you will need to buy a lot of tools and learn a lot of terms and parts specifications or you will be making a Lot of trips to the bike shop.
And with parts prices climbing steeply, getting upgrade parts is either more expensive than buying a better bike, or takes a year of shopping online to find something worth buying and which actually works, and matches the description of what you tired to buy. You can usually get your money back but it can be a hassle and a waste of time ....
Your best bet ... well two options.
One is to save your money and buy a better bike in a couple years. You can generally buy a new bike for the same or less money than it would cost to upgrade your old bike, and with the new bike, you get a warranty, the latest technology, and a better frame than the old one. (Not too much sense in putting really good parts on an entry-level frame---)
Another option is to buy a Bikes Direct/Bike Island type bike--- a mediocre bike with some good parts. Then, swap the parts to your old bike, and .... you have two not so great bikes. Hmmmm.
I would suggest waiting and saving. In a couple seasons, buy a Really nice bike .... the best you can afford. That way, either you won't have to upgrade, or if you choose to, some seasons further down the line, you wont be putting Ferrari parts on an old rusty Fiat.
So let me tell you how to do everything.
Seriously, you do Not want to go the "upgrade" route unless you have a ton of time, a ton of bike-specific tools, and ton of basic mechanical ability, and six tons of cash.
Bike mechanics are simple and easy, but there are still ten thousand little things that can go wrong. Some cost time, some cost money, some cost big money. Plus there are changing standards which create incompatibilities---you buy a part form the same company which made the original part, and they look the same, but the new one doesn't work with all the old stuff so now you have to buy All new stuff.
Then there are the tiny important parts you bend, break, or drop in the grass or which roll down the storm drain.
I do most of my own work (and occasionally pay others to fix my errors) but i spent a Lot of time making mistakes. it is a lot easier now with all the YouTube videos .... and a lot of it is worth learning if you are going to have a bike .... but you will need to buy a lot of tools and learn a lot of terms and parts specifications or you will be making a Lot of trips to the bike shop.
And with parts prices climbing steeply, getting upgrade parts is either more expensive than buying a better bike, or takes a year of shopping online to find something worth buying and which actually works, and matches the description of what you tired to buy. You can usually get your money back but it can be a hassle and a waste of time ....
Your best bet ... well two options.
One is to save your money and buy a better bike in a couple years. You can generally buy a new bike for the same or less money than it would cost to upgrade your old bike, and with the new bike, you get a warranty, the latest technology, and a better frame than the old one. (Not too much sense in putting really good parts on an entry-level frame---)
Another option is to buy a Bikes Direct/Bike Island type bike--- a mediocre bike with some good parts. Then, swap the parts to your old bike, and .... you have two not so great bikes. Hmmmm.
I would suggest waiting and saving. In a couple seasons, buy a Really nice bike .... the best you can afford. That way, either you won't have to upgrade, or if you choose to, some seasons further down the line, you wont be putting Ferrari parts on an old rusty Fiat.
04-17-19, 02:27 PM
#4
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Interesting design for a modern bike. I'd want to address the shifter, first thing. Maybe go with a Sora or even a 105 brifter. The brakes might be another good upgrade. 105 calipers should work with those levers, so that would be easy. Wheels and tires are going to be on the list, but not urgent. The main thing, though, is that steel fork. A decent carbon fiber fork would be a huge improvement, but not an easy DIY swap if you haven't done it, before. For now, though, just enjoy it, as is. With a little basic maintenance, it probably has several years before you need to do anything except swap tubes, brake pads, and chain.
04-17-19, 03:00 PM
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it is your bike and your money .... and your life.
So let me tell you how to do everything.
Seriously, you do Not want to go the "upgrade" route unless you have a ton of time, a ton of bike-specific tools, and ton of basic mechanical ability, and six tons of cash.
Bike mechanics are simple and easy, but there are still ten thousand little things that can go wrong. Some cost time, some cost money, some cost big money. Plus there are changing standards which create incompatibilities---you buy a part form the same company which made the original part, and they look the same, but the new one doesn't work with all the old stuff so now you have to buy All new stuff.
Then there are the tiny important parts you bend, break, or drop in the grass or which roll down the storm drain.
I do most of my own work (and occasionally pay others to fix my errors) but i spent a Lot of time making mistakes. it is a lot easier now with all the YouTube videos .... and a lot of it is worth learning if you are going to have a bike .... but you will need to buy a lot of tools and learn a lot of terms and parts specifications or you will be making a Lot of trips to the bike shop.
And with parts prices climbing steeply, getting upgrade parts is either more expensive than buying a better bike, or takes a year of shopping online to find something worth buying and which actually works, and matches the description of what you tired to buy. You can usually get your money back but it can be a hassle and a waste of time ....
Your best bet ... well two options.
One is to save your money and buy a better bike in a couple years. You can generally buy a new bike for the same or less money than it would cost to upgrade your old bike, and with the new bike, you get a warranty, the latest technology, and a better frame than the old one. (Not too much sense in putting really good parts on an entry-level frame---)
Another option is to buy a Bikes Direct/Bike Island type bike--- a mediocre bike with some good parts. Then, swap the parts to your old bike, and .... you have two not so great bikes. Hmmmm.
I would suggest waiting and saving. In a couple seasons, buy a Really nice bike .... the best you can afford. That way, either you won't have to upgrade, or if you choose to, some seasons further down the line, you wont be putting Ferrari parts on an old rusty Fiat.
So let me tell you how to do everything.
Seriously, you do Not want to go the "upgrade" route unless you have a ton of time, a ton of bike-specific tools, and ton of basic mechanical ability, and six tons of cash.
Bike mechanics are simple and easy, but there are still ten thousand little things that can go wrong. Some cost time, some cost money, some cost big money. Plus there are changing standards which create incompatibilities---you buy a part form the same company which made the original part, and they look the same, but the new one doesn't work with all the old stuff so now you have to buy All new stuff.
Then there are the tiny important parts you bend, break, or drop in the grass or which roll down the storm drain.
I do most of my own work (and occasionally pay others to fix my errors) but i spent a Lot of time making mistakes. it is a lot easier now with all the YouTube videos .... and a lot of it is worth learning if you are going to have a bike .... but you will need to buy a lot of tools and learn a lot of terms and parts specifications or you will be making a Lot of trips to the bike shop.
And with parts prices climbing steeply, getting upgrade parts is either more expensive than buying a better bike, or takes a year of shopping online to find something worth buying and which actually works, and matches the description of what you tired to buy. You can usually get your money back but it can be a hassle and a waste of time ....
Your best bet ... well two options.
One is to save your money and buy a better bike in a couple years. You can generally buy a new bike for the same or less money than it would cost to upgrade your old bike, and with the new bike, you get a warranty, the latest technology, and a better frame than the old one. (Not too much sense in putting really good parts on an entry-level frame---)
Another option is to buy a Bikes Direct/Bike Island type bike--- a mediocre bike with some good parts. Then, swap the parts to your old bike, and .... you have two not so great bikes. Hmmmm.
I would suggest waiting and saving. In a couple seasons, buy a Really nice bike .... the best you can afford. That way, either you won't have to upgrade, or if you choose to, some seasons further down the line, you wont be putting Ferrari parts on an old rusty Fiat.
Upgrades require either tools(which cost money) or shop time(which also costs money) Very few people can upgrade bikes cost effectively unless they already own the tools and know how to obtain compatible second hand parts
Last edited by alcjphil; 04-17-19 at 03:04 PM.
04-18-19, 12:25 AM
#6
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I hate to join in a pile-on, but there’s a lot more that goes into bikes besides which parts are hung on it.
Not that you’ve got a ‘bad’ bike. It’s a perfectly serviceable, inexpensive, recreational bike, with a decent blend of features and durability for the price, but at the expense of high performance.
Upgrading that bike to a current-generation entry level ‘Claris’ group would involve changing ‘everything but the paint job’ and probably cost more than you paid for the bike in the first place. And that’s just in parts. If you’re having a shop do the work, it’s going to get expensive.
You will find it is often less expensive to simply buy a higher-tier bike than to make large scale upgrades to an inexpensive one.
There’s also a lot more to a ‘nicer’ bike than what parts are bolted to it. Frames are lighter, stronger, better finished, and trimmed out.
Being that you have a pretty entry-level bike, it’s only going to have so much upgrade ability it’ll support, anyhow.
Ride it as is. Learn how to adjust and tune it, to keep it working as well as you can. As you ride your bike, figure out what it is that you want out of your bike. Make small changes, things like different tires and better brake pads can make a noticeable difference for not a lot of money.
Not that you’ve got a ‘bad’ bike. It’s a perfectly serviceable, inexpensive, recreational bike, with a decent blend of features and durability for the price, but at the expense of high performance.
Upgrading that bike to a current-generation entry level ‘Claris’ group would involve changing ‘everything but the paint job’ and probably cost more than you paid for the bike in the first place. And that’s just in parts. If you’re having a shop do the work, it’s going to get expensive.
You will find it is often less expensive to simply buy a higher-tier bike than to make large scale upgrades to an inexpensive one.
There’s also a lot more to a ‘nicer’ bike than what parts are bolted to it. Frames are lighter, stronger, better finished, and trimmed out.
Being that you have a pretty entry-level bike, it’s only going to have so much upgrade ability it’ll support, anyhow.
Ride it as is. Learn how to adjust and tune it, to keep it working as well as you can. As you ride your bike, figure out what it is that you want out of your bike. Make small changes, things like different tires and better brake pads can make a noticeable difference for not a lot of money.
04-18-19, 01:37 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
believe it or not i understand where everyone is comign from, this is not gonna be any short term upgrading, more likely pick up something second hand here and there over time until i have a complete groupset. expecting this to go bit by bit over a 2 year period. while i would continue to ride. i enjoy the ride,i'm just thinking i might outgrow the gearing and would want a better groupset, besides that i am honestly happy with everything else.
Because of this I would honestly go for upgrading group set and be happy with results, this taking into account the extra costs.
Because of this I would honestly go for upgrading group set and be happy with results, this taking into account the extra costs.
04-18-19, 01:55 AM
#8
Senior Member
Have you considered upgrading all the 'touch' points instead? You seem to be generally happy with the bike and you think you may outgrow the gearing, which may or may not happen.
In the meantime, you may be able to enjoy the bike even more with more subtle upgrades over time like tyres, saddle, pedals, brake pads etc.
In the meantime, you may be able to enjoy the bike even more with more subtle upgrades over time like tyres, saddle, pedals, brake pads etc.
04-18-19, 02:03 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
I have upgraded saddle with a brooks b17, and did quite a bit of aesthetic upgrades. I am pretty sure i will out grow the gearing since right now my standard gear is 5th gear and when going for faster workout rides i'm going about 70 % 6th 30% 7th and although not for long i am able to outpedal that gear
04-18-19, 08:16 AM
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One option would be to buy a complete 105 group set and the cheapest 11-speed-compatible rear wheel you can find. That way the drive train would be good forever, and you coule upgrade the wheel in a few years.
All that, assuming you did the work, would probably set you back $500.
Getting anything less that new Sora would be a waste, and if you are going to spend $300 on the drive train, spend $400 and get the good stuff. No sense wishing for more later on down the line. And you have a small window where you might be able to find a low-cost 105 group right now---everything always seems to get more expensive.
The real limiting factor of that bike is the rear hub, being a freewheel 7-speed, and older design. I have done fully loaded touring on a freewheel hub, it isn't going to just up and die on you from general use, but it si the last iteration of the last generation of its kind. You need to get rid of it to do Any upgrades.
So to do anything you need a new rear wheel (or a hub, but a hub and relacing it into your current wheel would cost as much as a new wheel, so .... You need an 11-speed compatible wheel---that will let use 8, 9, 10, and 11-speed groups. Absolute necessary first step.
Once you have the new wheel, you won't be able to use it without a new cassette, and while you can still find a 7-speed cassette, why would you? But to make use of a cassette with more cogs, you will need new shifters (you can probably get by with the current rear derailleur unless you go to 10-or 11-speed .... and even then it Might work, but the chain width difference might cause binding issues.)
Thing is, shift levers are the most expensive parts of the group (along with crank sets,) so once you got the new wheel and cassette, you might as well spend the extra $40 for a new rear derailleur---At which point you will have invested so much, you might as well get a whole new group set.
You Can pick up parts piecemeal online ... but since you need a new wheel to start with, and once you get the wheel you need a cassette and shifters to use it ... Well, if you have the kind of patience which lets you leave parts on the shelf for 18 months, okay. But you will need to shop the internet almost daily to catch the good deals, because there are other people out there doing the same thing, and the really good stuff--New Old Stock or New Take-Off---gets snatched up right away---or else people bid it up beyond the cost of new parts from a regular retailer.
I would suggest looking at group set prices on these sites: Wiggle, Merlin, Chain Reaction, and Ribble, Traditionally these sites have offered the best prices on quality drivetrain parts. At least that would give you some idea of a base cost for parts, so you could compare what you are seeing online at EBay or whatever.
Some of thosee sites no longer carry groups because of Shimano's price war, but Wiggle has Tiagra 10-speed for $275--$350 (https://www.wiggle.com/groupsets/?o=2) Whoops ... out of stock but they claim they will get more.If you get a chance buy Today because Shimano's price war could make groups hard to buy.
Merlin has 105 groups for $363 for 5800 (https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano...set-72462.html) and $441 for 7000. (https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano...et-118524.html) These are Super deals. I advise you to buy Now, today, because they might never show up again.
All that, assuming you did the work, would probably set you back $500.
Getting anything less that new Sora would be a waste, and if you are going to spend $300 on the drive train, spend $400 and get the good stuff. No sense wishing for more later on down the line. And you have a small window where you might be able to find a low-cost 105 group right now---everything always seems to get more expensive.
The real limiting factor of that bike is the rear hub, being a freewheel 7-speed, and older design. I have done fully loaded touring on a freewheel hub, it isn't going to just up and die on you from general use, but it si the last iteration of the last generation of its kind. You need to get rid of it to do Any upgrades.
So to do anything you need a new rear wheel (or a hub, but a hub and relacing it into your current wheel would cost as much as a new wheel, so .... You need an 11-speed compatible wheel---that will let use 8, 9, 10, and 11-speed groups. Absolute necessary first step.
Once you have the new wheel, you won't be able to use it without a new cassette, and while you can still find a 7-speed cassette, why would you? But to make use of a cassette with more cogs, you will need new shifters (you can probably get by with the current rear derailleur unless you go to 10-or 11-speed .... and even then it Might work, but the chain width difference might cause binding issues.)
Thing is, shift levers are the most expensive parts of the group (along with crank sets,) so once you got the new wheel and cassette, you might as well spend the extra $40 for a new rear derailleur---At which point you will have invested so much, you might as well get a whole new group set.
You Can pick up parts piecemeal online ... but since you need a new wheel to start with, and once you get the wheel you need a cassette and shifters to use it ... Well, if you have the kind of patience which lets you leave parts on the shelf for 18 months, okay. But you will need to shop the internet almost daily to catch the good deals, because there are other people out there doing the same thing, and the really good stuff--New Old Stock or New Take-Off---gets snatched up right away---or else people bid it up beyond the cost of new parts from a regular retailer.
I would suggest looking at group set prices on these sites: Wiggle, Merlin, Chain Reaction, and Ribble, Traditionally these sites have offered the best prices on quality drivetrain parts. At least that would give you some idea of a base cost for parts, so you could compare what you are seeing online at EBay or whatever.
Some of thosee sites no longer carry groups because of Shimano's price war, but Wiggle has Tiagra 10-speed for $275--$350 (https://www.wiggle.com/groupsets/?o=2) Whoops ... out of stock but they claim they will get more.If you get a chance buy Today because Shimano's price war could make groups hard to buy.
Merlin has 105 groups for $363 for 5800 (https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano...set-72462.html) and $441 for 7000. (https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano...et-118524.html) These are Super deals. I advise you to buy Now, today, because they might never show up again.
04-18-19, 02:16 PM
#11
Senior Member
If it's a 7 speed hub, isn't it going to be a 126 mm rear triangle? If it's aluminum and 126 mm, it's not really made for a 130 mm hub, which is the OLD for 8+ speed hubs.
Perhaps a better approach might be to ride, save some money, and buy a lightly used bike from your equivalent of Craigslist. Some riders upgrade frequently and essentially give their old bikes away. Others buy a nice bike, find they don;t like riding and then sell their bikes.
Perhaps a better approach might be to ride, save some money, and buy a lightly used bike from your equivalent of Craigslist. Some riders upgrade frequently and essentially give their old bikes away. Others buy a nice bike, find they don;t like riding and then sell their bikes.
04-18-19, 02:25 PM
#12
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Phile would need to measure between the rear dropouts, and it it is indeed 126 mm, he basically has Zero upgrade options.
04-18-19, 04:22 PM
#13
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I would suggest looking at group set prices on these sites: Wiggle, Merlin, Chain Reaction, and Ribble, Traditionally these sites have offered the best prices on quality drivetrain parts. At least that would give you some idea of a base cost for parts, so you could compare what you are seeing online at EBay or whatever.
Some of thosee sites no longer carry groups because of Shimano's price war, but Wiggle has Tiagra 10-speed for $275--$350 (https://www.wiggle.com/groupsets/?o=2) Whoops ... out of stock but they claim they will get more.If you get a chance buy Today because Shimano's price war could make groups hard to buy.
Some of thosee sites no longer carry groups because of Shimano's price war, but Wiggle has Tiagra 10-speed for $275--$350 (https://www.wiggle.com/groupsets/?o=2) Whoops ... out of stock but they claim they will get more.If you get a chance buy Today because Shimano's price war could make groups hard to buy.
As mentioned the 126mm rear spacing on an aluminium bike is a problem.
A reasonable upgrade to the existing drivetrain is dump the Tourney RD for a Deore and some Shimano A070 brifters for the clunky shifters it has now. https://www.ebay.com/p/Shimano-Tourn...hm=1000&chn=ps
Last edited by dedhed; 04-18-19 at 04:29 PM.
04-18-19, 06:13 PM
#14
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Don't upgrade anything unless something wears out or breaks or if you're having issues with fitting and comfort.
04-18-19, 08:42 PM
#15
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Seriously though ... pull out the rear wheel and measure the distance from the inside of one dropout (where the axle goes) to the other. If it is 126 mm, you are right out of luck. You cannot upgrade the bike meaningfully (you can throw money at anything but you can't make it stick.)
The distance between dropouts is 130 mm, then you can attach expensive parts to the cheap frame. I wouldn't recommend it, but it is your choice.
The distance between dropouts is 130 mm, then you can attach expensive parts to the cheap frame. I wouldn't recommend it, but it is your choice.
04-18-19, 09:39 PM
#16
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To those giving me tips. Thank you, I'm gonna measure when ihead out. That said it should be ok spacing wise. This based on the previously mentioned brazilian vid. Guy changed up entire groupset for something nicer. I have been finding complete shimano 105 groupsets for 150 euro. Im assuming for another 100 i can get a rear wheel. Which I'm ok with paying over the long run.
04-18-19, 10:30 PM
#17
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You’ve had it for a whole month, eh? How far have you ridden in that time? 😉
04-18-19, 10:38 PM
#18
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So yeah i know i will outgrow the gearing
04-19-19, 01:46 AM
#19
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To those giving me tips. Thank you, I'm gonna measure when ihead out. That said it should be ok spacing wise. This based on the previously mentioned brazilian vid. Guy changed up entire groupset for something nicer. I have been finding complete shimano 105 groupsets for 150 euro. Im assuming for another 100 i can get a rear wheel. Which I'm ok with paying over the long run.
So, you’ll be in to this bike for 500 euro or so, and you’ve still got the frame, bars, front wheel and finishing bits of a 250 euro bike.
What we’ve been trying to say is that there’s more to a ‘105’ level bike than just which mechs are hung on it. Doing a bike up piecemeal is also a good way to spend 30-50% more to get the same or less than buying a complete bike with what you want on it.
I think we’re all just questioning the ‘why’ of this project. It’s not like the B’Twin has some really remarkable features that make it worth an upgrade that costs more than the original purchase price.
Even beyond the monetary value, the increase in ‘performance will be less than starting with a complete, higher tier bike.
04-19-19, 02:51 AM
#20
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So, you’ll be in to this bike for 500 euro or so, and you’ve still got the frame, bars, front wheel and finishing bits of a 250 euro bike.
What we’ve been trying to say is that there’s more to a ‘105’ level bike than just which mechs are hung on it. Doing a bike up piecemeal is also a good way to spend 30-50% more to get the same or less than buying a complete bike with what you want on it.
I think we’re all just questioning the ‘why’ of this project. It’s not like the B’Twin has some really remarkable features that make it worth an upgrade that costs more than the original purchase price.
Even beyond the monetary value, the increase in ‘performance will be less than starting with a complete, higher tier bike.
What we’ve been trying to say is that there’s more to a ‘105’ level bike than just which mechs are hung on it. Doing a bike up piecemeal is also a good way to spend 30-50% more to get the same or less than buying a complete bike with what you want on it.
I think we’re all just questioning the ‘why’ of this project. It’s not like the B’Twin has some really remarkable features that make it worth an upgrade that costs more than the original purchase price.
Even beyond the monetary value, the increase in ‘performance will be less than starting with a complete, higher tier bike.
And would like tips on what i should be looking out for and snagging up if i see it online for a good price.
Besides to loyl of questioning i have gotten some tips so thanks to those that gave em.
04-19-19, 03:41 AM
#21
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At the end of the dayi see where everyone is coming from, i just don't particularly care, this is what i want to do.
And would like tips on what i should be looking out for and snagging up if i see it online for a good price.
Besides to loyl of questioning i have gotten some tips so thanks to those that gave em.
And would like tips on what i should be looking out for and snagging up if i see it online for a good price.
Besides to loyl of questioning i have gotten some tips so thanks to those that gave em.
Part of doing a big upgrade project is knowing what goal you have in mind, so you can lay out which steps to take. There are some rabbit holes that are easy to fall in to and can cost a lot of time and money to get out of.
“A Nicer Groupset” is pretty vague for a goal.
You have a 1x7 Tourney, so pretty much anything is ‘up’ from there. You want 8, 9 speed in the back or 10-11? Some groups like 105 have been around for decades, and always part of the higher end. If im going to 9-speed, I’d rather run a 5600 series 105 (c.2008) than brand new Claris or Sora.
Up front you have a single ring. Thinking of going to a double or triple? You’ll also need to get something sorted out to run cables to the FD, since it doesn’t look like your bike was set up for it.
You can also make incremental changes to your existing setup as you figure out what exactly you’d like to improve. You can swap the freewheel for one with a different range, and change the crank to one with separate chainrings, so you can tune the overall gear ranges to suit your riding style.
If if you want Brifters, Shimano an Microshift make 7and 8-speed Brifters that would work with the components already on your bike now, and give it some room to expand.
04-19-19, 04:58 AM
#22
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Don't put much into it mechanical wise. A huge problem is the rear wheel, nutted freewheel. To upgrade past 7 speed you'll have to replace the rear wheel, that's about $100 and if it is 126mm spaced you're out of luck.
What I think would be nice is spending that $100 on a nice set of tires. This will really make a difference if you don't do anything off pavement.
If you don't like the gearing it's cheap to buy a replacement freewheel. Stock is 14-34t? Sunrace makes an affordable 13-25t if you never use the 28t or 34t.
SunRace | MFR30
What I think would be nice is spending that $100 on a nice set of tires. This will really make a difference if you don't do anything off pavement.
If you don't like the gearing it's cheap to buy a replacement freewheel. Stock is 14-34t? Sunrace makes an affordable 13-25t if you never use the 28t or 34t.
SunRace | MFR30
04-19-19, 05:12 AM
#23
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Perhaps a better approach might be to ride, save some money, and buy a lightly used bike from your equivalent of Craigslist. Some riders upgrade frequently and essentially give their old bikes away. Others buy a nice bike, find they don;t like riding and then sell their bikes.
Besides, any mechanic will tell you that upgrading tires and wheels will make much more difference in performance (assuming everything else is mechanically-sound) than any other upgrade.
