Circa 1955 Phillips Step Through SA Dyno-Three Hubs with Working Lights! PHOTOS HEAVY
01-12-15, 07:46 AM
#101
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To add to what RHM offers, I usually have to pry up that rectangular trigger spring with a very small screwdriver in order to free up the cable end. It often means pushing the cable into the trigger with one hand, prying up that spring with another, and capturing the cable end with your third hand.
01-12-15, 08:01 AM
#102
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To add to what RHM offers, I usually have to pry up that rectangular trigger spring with a very small screwdriver in order to free up the cable end. It often means pushing the cable into the trigger with one hand, prying up that spring with another, and capturing the cable end with your third hand.
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01-12-15, 10:35 AM
#103
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No, no, don't cut the cable. That would be bad. Those trigger shifters are wonky. You need a ten second long lesson from someone who knows how to work with one; that's about how long it takes to learn all there is to know. Maybe there's a youtube video of how to install a cable in one?
In a nutshell, what you do is...
First, dislodge the ferrule at the trigger end of the cable housing, from the trigger itself. It's loosely threaded in; you need to hold it in a pair of pliers and pull and twist (counterclockwise) at the same time. The threads won't engage if you don't pull. Once they engage, unscrew it until it comes all the way out; the cable end will likely still be in the trigger. Now push and pull on the cable with one hand and with the other hand flip the trigger through all its postions. As the trigger lifts up the ratcheting mechanism, the cable end will be freed and you can pull it out, or (if you prefer) push it back in and get it to the right place. You should feel the cable move along with the trigger if it's engaged; if it's not engaged, it should pull right out. Use all your senses and you'll figure it out in no time.
This is a pretty easy to do while the trigger is attached to the handlebar. If you've removed the trigger from the bar, you need more hands.
In a nutshell, what you do is...
First, dislodge the ferrule at the trigger end of the cable housing, from the trigger itself. It's loosely threaded in; you need to hold it in a pair of pliers and pull and twist (counterclockwise) at the same time. The threads won't engage if you don't pull. Once they engage, unscrew it until it comes all the way out; the cable end will likely still be in the trigger. Now push and pull on the cable with one hand and with the other hand flip the trigger through all its postions. As the trigger lifts up the ratcheting mechanism, the cable end will be freed and you can pull it out, or (if you prefer) push it back in and get it to the right place. You should feel the cable move along with the trigger if it's engaged; if it's not engaged, it should pull right out. Use all your senses and you'll figure it out in no time.
This is a pretty easy to do while the trigger is attached to the handlebar. If you've removed the trigger from the bar, you need more hands.
I will report back.Thanks!
01-12-15, 10:40 AM
#104
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But I hasten to add: if you do cut or break the cable, or decide it needs replaced for any reason, save that ferrule, and save the barrel adjuster from the other end. I can use them for making new cables.
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01-12-15, 11:22 AM
#105
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@Velocivixen: just another rite of passage....learning the easy but oh so counterintuitive process of managing the trigger! Like @rhm says - once you get it it is dead simple - but until you get it its a little wonky. For future reference, the more modern triggers (ie 60s/70s) for SA have a keyhole style opening where the ferrule goes in - same ferrule with threads, but you can just lift the whole thing up to the larger hole and pull it out....
01-12-15, 11:44 AM
#106
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Also, the exposed cable past the fulcrum sleeve has a clear very thing (1.4mm) casing over it. It's yellowed a little and is a little worn down by the pulley wheel but totally usable. Was that just to protect the cable & prolong it's life? I was gonna see if I could use clear housing liner to replace, but housing liner is more than 3mm & would look stupid. So....what's up with the clear liner piece? How come it doesn't come on new replacement shifter cables?
01-12-15, 12:00 PM
#107
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You can reattach the barrel adjuster to a new cable??? OOOh. Please tell me how or send a pm. That's one reason why I don't want a new cable because of the barrel adjuster - it's a gem.
Also, the exposed cable past the fulcrum sleeve has a clear very thing (1.4mm) casing over it. It's yellowed a little and is a little worn down by the pulley wheel but totally usable. Was that just to protect the cable & prolong it's life? I was gonna see if I could use clear housing liner to replace, but housing liner is more than 3mm & would look stupid. So....what's up with the clear liner piece? How come it doesn't come on new replacement shifter cables?
Also, the exposed cable past the fulcrum sleeve has a clear very thing (1.4mm) casing over it. It's yellowed a little and is a little worn down by the pulley wheel but totally usable. Was that just to protect the cable & prolong it's life? I was gonna see if I could use clear housing liner to replace, but housing liner is more than 3mm & would look stupid. So....what's up with the clear liner piece? How come it doesn't come on new replacement shifter cables?
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...her-cable.html
You will want one of these:
Used Old Vintage Primitive Tool HKP Inc Bell B System Wire Crimper Cable | eBay
or something like it. Note that the jaws of this one have two dies; there is a similar one that has only one die, which is bigger. That is not what you want (though it is useful for making your own brake cables).
If you want to put a plastic liner on the cable, get heat shrink tubing, I think you want a 2 mm size. Various colors and various lengths are available on ebay.
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01-12-15, 12:33 PM
#108
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In case its not obvious, that swagged-on bit at the end of the cable on the shifter end goes on a hook arrangement on the shifter. Its designed to that its easily removed, and if it has much slack in the shifter cable it can spring free on its own.Once you sort out how the cable end is secured you will see that its really quite simple.
Its not that hard to fabricate a new shift cable but its likely not worth it unless the cable sleeve forward of the fulcrum clip is cracked and nasty. I've used derailleur shift cables buy cutting off the end bit and using one of those bits that you swage onto the end of a dérailleur cable to keep it from fraying. It works like a charm but you have to make sure you have everything in place and the length is right. You can adjust for length a little bit by moving the fulcrum clip and the pulley.
Its not that hard to fabricate a new shift cable but its likely not worth it unless the cable sleeve forward of the fulcrum clip is cracked and nasty. I've used derailleur shift cables buy cutting off the end bit and using one of those bits that you swage onto the end of a dérailleur cable to keep it from fraying. It works like a charm but you have to make sure you have everything in place and the length is right. You can adjust for length a little bit by moving the fulcrum clip and the pulley.
01-12-15, 01:21 PM
#109
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UPDATE: I know you guys will cringe and I know, technically, this was wrong. I'll have to live with it. First off the ferrule threads are stripped. I gently pried the pawl spring & pushed it up a tiny bit, so the pawl could move freely. I could see the ferrule spinning but looks like it had been bent or threads stripped. Anyway with all the pushing/pulling on the actual cable I frayed 2 strands of tiny wire. I gently undid them (about 1.5" - 2" back from the ferrule) & clipped off. Anyway I used a flashlight in my teeth and some fine tweezers and fished out the end. The cable was very bent right where the cable attaches to it's nubby end (what's that called anyway?). I straightened out then seated it into it's correct place.
It's set up, but no chain on yet. The shifter shifts into all the positions and I have it generally in the right position. I just installed cranks and am about to install the chain.
It's set up, but no chain on yet. The shifter shifts into all the positions and I have it generally in the right position. I just installed cranks and am about to install the chain.
01-12-15, 01:47 PM
#110
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Man, you've been busy!
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01-12-15, 02:11 PM
#111
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Whoohoo. Everything is DONE!!! Well, I'm using Naval Jelly on top of seat post to get it clean. Saddle "leather" has come undone from nose & around the back. What should I use here? Some sort of adhesive so it doesn't get worse I presume. Recommendations?
01-12-15, 02:15 PM
#112
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I have to chuckle at that "fur" on the underside. I wonder if that is original material or stray fur that flew through the barn and into the saddle.
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01-12-15, 02:37 PM
#113
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).
01-12-15, 03:02 PM
#114
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I have had success with Shoe Goop on vinyl saddle covers.
01-12-15, 03:06 PM
#115
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01-12-15, 03:22 PM
#116
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The 'fur' is padding and was there when the saddle was new.
I've seen this very style of saddle be quite comfortable (there is one on a friend's 1958 Phillips) and I have seen other examples that were pretty torturous. You just have to try it out and see if there is enough potential to restore it. If not I would be on the lookout for a Brooks B-66s.
I've seen this very style of saddle be quite comfortable (there is one on a friend's 1958 Phillips) and I have seen other examples that were pretty torturous. You just have to try it out and see if there is enough potential to restore it. If not I would be on the lookout for a Brooks B-66s.
01-12-15, 03:49 PM
#119
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In Australia the cows are out in the paddocks, not in barns.
You Americans have some strange ideas. (running for shelter)
You Americans have some strange ideas. (running for shelter)
01-12-15, 04:53 PM
#120
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I've used automotive headliner glue to adhere loose vinyl. It comes in a spray can and I've found a coating on the inside of the vinyl and the saddle create a more permanent bond.
01-12-15, 04:54 PM
#121
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I agree. It would be wise to repair the original saddle, but a nice (insert brand name to fit wallet) sprung leather saddle would be perfect. If you were able to find a decent used saddle with some patina, that would be the icing on the cake (bike).
01-12-15, 05:20 PM
#122
Count Orlok Member
01-12-15, 05:26 PM
#123
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Hey I have an almost new honey Brooks B67 not being used. I think a B66 might be better. Honey might pick up he told pinstriping. Pinstriping is on seat stays, chain stays, fenders, downtube and head tube.
01-12-15, 07:22 PM
#124
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@gna - I read that. Thanks. Didn't really help me so much. It helped me to see the patent sketch and then looking at my shifter I understood how it worked. I basically loosened the pawl spring & pulled pawl back and looked inside while I moved the cable back & forth from the outside. I could see the tip & that the cable was very bent.
I've never made a video, but I think I should make some videos & put online. All the videos, except one (bikeman4you) had "how to adjust shifting" on a SA 3 speed, but nothing on installing/removing the actual shifter cable.
I've never made a video, but I think I should make some videos & put online. All the videos, except one (bikeman4you) had "how to adjust shifting" on a SA 3 speed, but nothing on installing/removing the actual shifter cable.
01-12-15, 07:46 PM
#125
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@auchencrow - you had a fabulous thread here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...her-cable.html
I've never worked with heat shrink tubing before. What shrink ratio did you get? I see there are things like 2:1, 3"1, etc. That was a fantastic post that I will duplicate some time. Thanks in advance.
Is there supposed to be a rubber gasket or something between the glass lens and the ring? Seems like there's space between the two and I see no evidence of any damage to the unit. Also, what is that little tab think sticking out (looks like a triangle) of the lens? Also the silver ring where the lens is situated has a triangular indentation that was made at the factory. What's that for? Thanks.
I've never worked with heat shrink tubing before. What shrink ratio did you get? I see there are things like 2:1, 3"1, etc. That was a fantastic post that I will duplicate some time. Thanks in advance.
Is there supposed to be a rubber gasket or something between the glass lens and the ring? Seems like there's space between the two and I see no evidence of any damage to the unit. Also, what is that little tab think sticking out (looks like a triangle) of the lens? Also the silver ring where the lens is situated has a triangular indentation that was made at the factory. What's that for? Thanks.
Last edited by Velocivixen; 01-12-15 at 07:51 PM. Reason: added photos with question