Grease, oil, Teflon or wax on cables?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Grease, oil, Teflon or wax on cables?
I'm resurrecting an old Trek 8000, and one thing I noticed is that the shifting is very stiff and I know it wasn't always that way. When I disconnected the cables both derailleurs were easy enough to move by hand, and both shifters were free to move too. So that leaves the cables in between. Short of buying a new pair of cables, what should I use on the existing ones? Grease, some kind of oil, teflon chain lube or wax or something else? This bike won't get used much. For comparison, the brakes and cables seem to work just fine. Only the shifting got stiff. If I find that applying some lube doesn't work I'll buy new ones. They aren't that expensive but my wife is already giving me grief about fixing up what would be my 4th bike although the only MTB with fat tires.
I suppose the cables could also have a kink in them at this point too, in which case I'll buy new.
I suppose the cables could also have a kink in them at this point too, in which case I'll buy new.
Last edited by zacster; 10-19-19 at 08:18 PM.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
I use die-drawn stainless inner wires with lined housings, no lube. The cost is minimal and the improvement over old cable will likely surprise (and please) you. If you really don't want to replace what you have then a light oil would be my suggestion. I think that grease or wax will bee too stiff during use and too difficult to get where they need to go.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunny Tampa, Florida
Posts: 1,538
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked 49 Times
in
41 Posts
Maybe have a word with your wife about what sort of habits and recreational activities you are NOT paying for.
Mine understands that a man my age will be attracted to fast, sleek Italian things and is happy I'm not going after the cars or women.
Try greasing that cable. Short term solution, at best but couldn't hurt.
Mine understands that a man my age will be attracted to fast, sleek Italian things and is happy I'm not going after the cars or women.
Try greasing that cable. Short term solution, at best but couldn't hurt.
#5
Senior Member
Light grease, or oil. I generally much prefer to replace with new cable and housing (and I usually buy pre-lubed, lined housing), but sometimes at work for someone paying the bare minimum I'll quickly lube any sticky cables. My normal go to is slick honey, which is a suspension grease, but Shimano's official SP-41 stuff is great--Dumonde Tech Chain lube also works pretty well. I think heavier bearing greases can be a little too thick.
#6
Droid on a mission
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,002
Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 316 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times
in
195 Posts
Before you grease or oil, remove the cable from the DERs out of the housings (do not remove from the controls yet), then blow out the housings first to demove fine debris and examine the cable itself out of the housing for any rust, corrosion or fraying that warrants replacement. If fairly clean, then lightly rub them down with fine steel wool, oil and reinstall.
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
#7
Dont fix whats not broken
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 302
Bikes: Steelman Stage Race, Dura-Ace 9s
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Liked 166 Times
in
93 Posts
I wouldn't spend too much time on the existing cables, as anything you do will be temporary. Cables are a wear item, I would pull the trigger and install new cables and housing.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK, I'm convinced, I'll buy new cables/housing. I have housing somewhere but not sure if it is brake or shifter housing. Shifter housing has the parallel wire, correct?
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,870
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2587 Post(s)
Liked 1,913 Times
in
1,199 Posts
Out of order, replace cables and housings (as you've decided to do). Shifter housing has the parallel wires, check.
What kind of weather do you plan to ride in? Where will you store the bike? Grease is good, it keeps water out of the cables so they don't freeze up if it's cold. Oil is good, because it doesn't thicken up when it gets cold (even though it'll let water into the cable).
Teflon? Hard to get good coverage. Wax?? Uh-uh.
What kind of weather do you plan to ride in? Where will you store the bike? Grease is good, it keeps water out of the cables so they don't freeze up if it's cold. Oil is good, because it doesn't thicken up when it gets cold (even though it'll let water into the cable).
Teflon? Hard to get good coverage. Wax?? Uh-uh.
#10
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 1,882
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
Yes. SIS shift housing has parallel cables. If you're using friction shifting, helical cable is acceptable.
#11
Very Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Always on the Run
Posts: 1,211
Bikes: Giant Quasar & Fuji Roubaix
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 413 Post(s)
Liked 343 Times
in
244 Posts
I picked up a complete kit (brake and shifter cables) at the local hardware store (Bell) for under 6 bucks. Since they're regular replacement items anyway, why go hog wild?
#12
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,163
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7319 Post(s)
Liked 2,398 Times
in
1,404 Posts
I used to remediate old cables. Now I've realized that my success rate was not worth the time.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#13
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 1,882
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
Another item to consider would be the 'false economy' potential. If a $30 kit lasts 5 years, it is in effect the same price as an annual $6 expense, without the additional labor to remove and replace the cables. I'm curious about it, I wonder if we've already had a thread on cable and housing replacement.
Edit: WE HAVE MANY THREADS
!
!
Most of the original posts start "I'm sure it's been asked before..."
Last edited by Unca_Sam; 10-21-19 at 01:32 PM.
Likes For Unca_Sam:
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What I really need to do first is to get the bike rideable again, which I should be able to do this week by cleaning it, putting on a new chain, and filling the existing tires. Saddle is disintegrating as are the foam grips, but I'll make do with those. Then I can see how stiff the shifting is under real conditions, but new cables will be put on eventually anyway.
#15
Senior Member
As long the cable is not frayed or badly rusted, going over it with WD-40 and a rag can work well, but the main problem is the housings which are not as easily cleaned.
#16
Senior Member
The easiest thing to do is keep the housings and replace the cables. You can shoot some WD40 down the housings to clean them out first and make the new cables work better.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I checked and I have new housing, Campy at that. As I recall, I used the same Campy housing on my other Trek MTB when I bought new shifters or levers, can't remember which, and they came with cable but not housing. I'll see if I can get the shifting working without doing anything else first, then try lube, then just throw in the towel and get new,
#18
bike whisperer
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,533
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1520 Post(s)
Liked 716 Times
in
508 Posts
If housings are new, check under the ferrules to see if the ends are square. If not, make them square. Often they're too long and you can get nicer bends by shortening them. Then just squirt them clean with some spray and maybe follow with a bit of light oil. Ensure cables are undamaged.
If the housing isn't new and the cables look okay, worn liners in the housing are the likely culprit. Along with excess length being common...
If the housing isn't new and the cables look okay, worn liners in the housing are the likely culprit. Along with excess length being common...
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Mine understands that I have a sleek Italian friend (a colleague that somehow became my protege, never went beyond that). And the colleague that introduced us in the first place is named Ferrari. (he says no relation). I'm not making this up. And I'm that age too.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I checked again and not only do I have new housing, there is a gear cable in there too. It is Campy, but my understanding is the Campy barrel is only .5mm smaller than a Shimano and will work. Why I have a spare Campy shifter cable is beyond me, those things are generally expensive.
I did all of the work I wanted to do on this bike today. I washed it, put my new/used Kenda Nevegals in 26x2.1 on it with new tubes, put a shiny new KMC X8.99 chain on it, and then worked on the shifting. It was the shifting that that didn't work well in the end. The front is OK but a little stiff, the rear barely works. As I recall though, the rear never worked very well. In looking at the rear housing, it seems a little long so that'll be one thing to change.
If the cable doesn't help, what next? Douse the shifter with oil or WD40? Lube up the RD too? It didn't seem stiff though.
I did all of the work I wanted to do on this bike today. I washed it, put my new/used Kenda Nevegals in 26x2.1 on it with new tubes, put a shiny new KMC X8.99 chain on it, and then worked on the shifting. It was the shifting that that didn't work well in the end. The front is OK but a little stiff, the rear barely works. As I recall though, the rear never worked very well. In looking at the rear housing, it seems a little long so that'll be one thing to change.
If the cable doesn't help, what next? Douse the shifter with oil or WD40? Lube up the RD too? It didn't seem stiff though.
#21
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 1,882
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
You won't lose anything by unbolting the r der and giving it a good scrub with your favorite light degreaser. The pivots might be gritty and could use some lube. If you do the F der, mark the position on the seat tube with some tape so you know where it was set. F der position is easy to get wrong, but a few checks and some fiddling will get it where it needs to be. I'm not sure you mentioned what the drivetrain consists of in your posts.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I put the campy cable and housing on it and shifting is much better. But the big PITA was that the return spring popped from the shifter and three parts went flying while I had the cover off. It took a while to figure out how it went back together and then I couldn’t get the retaining but to screw back on. Damn. It was a reverse thread! I have CSS syndrome (can’t see ****).
I took it for a spin and the shifting is much easier now. Still not the light touch of my other Trek MTB but that has XT dynasys 10sp.
The drivetrain on this bike is Deore DX 7sp, a groupset that I haven’t seen elsewhere from the early 90s. This frame is bonded aluminum, and this was rumored to not last very long except that this bike is already 30 years old. I guess that's long enough.
And yes, I need to cut the excess and put an end nipple on it. I had already put the tools away when I realized it and I just wanted to take it for a ride.
Last edited by zacster; 10-24-19 at 03:55 PM.
#23
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,841
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 926 Times
in
611 Posts
I smear a pinch or 2 of grease on new cables before putting them in the housing.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter