dedhed

I've been using the Bdop drop pads in 6600 Ultegra calipers for years without issue. They were cheaper back when I got them.

cyclist_obscura

consider your intended tire width:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nary-tale.html

Jeff Wills

A drop bolt is what we would have used back when those brakes were young. IIRC, they were 98% compatible with Campagnolo Record calipers. You could use this drop bolt if you can afford it.
Vintage NOS Brake drop bolt chrome for Campagnolo Dia Compe gipiemme short NEW | eBay

Andy_K 

I was just about to mention that thread. I think they'd probably work fine with a typical 27" tire. The 650B tires I was using them with were a lot wider than the rim and they still "almost" worked.

Edit: looking at my pictures again, 27x1-1/4 could be a problem. @Bob Dopolina could give more specific guidance.

merziac

As Mr. Fattic said, there is no reason not to clearance the slots on these to get a few more mm. Consider the fact that the pad and bolt will be snugging up against %75 of the arm/slot at the bottom, far more than when they are in the middle of the slot and its not like you are extending the reach by 8-10mm. I have never seen any ill effects from this and I have seen a few that were taken to the extreme, scary looking, never failed. The concern about these being special is certainly valid but they will be enhanced for it at the end of the day.

Ross200

In a very strict sense, Suntour Superbe, introduced in 1977, may not be period correct on an "early 70"s" Roberts. Drop bolts could be "more" correct for the period.

pcb 

Just some confirmatory oratory.

1. The longest-reach Superbe/SpbPro calipers ever produced were spec'd 47-57mm.
2. Using drop bolts back in the day was the usual go-to solution, they work just fine. If you want to keep it all-vintage, that's a good vintage solution.
3. Filing the slots is safe if done carefully, but it's a lot of work if it doesn't get you the additional drop you need.
4. Sorry, I haven't used the BDop/Aican shoe droppers, can't help with feedback there. They look like a good solution to me, but not vintage.
5. The other solution bitd was going to a centerpull, but we snobs avoided them: extra weight/hassle, and centerpulls were for cheaper bikes. I did say we were snobs, feel free to ignore that. But, yuck.
6. I did make an exception for the lovely Gran Compe centerpulls, but they won't be long enough for this application.

Prowler 

+1 drop bolt. I have one of these on the rear caliper of my Crescent. DiaCompe G calipers. It's been rock solid and "never needs repair". 700c wheels. No problem.

nesteel 

If it were me, I'd just put a drop bolt on it and forget about it.

Dan Burkhart 

My search for a pair of drop bolts has not turned up anything under about 200 bucks delivered to Canada. Some of the ones you find where you are may show "Does not ship to Canada" Such is life in the great white north.
However, I am always open to being pointed to available options.
Also, would a drop bolt for Campy brake work for Suntour?

cudak888 

They're being unreasonable, asking for parts that weren't meant to fit a given bike to fit. Either they cough up for the drop bolts or accept the fact that longer reach calipers are necessary.

I wouldn't do a hack job at the lovely anodizing on these Superbes - not for a client, anyway. Remember that there's also a small recess you have to file into the back of the caliper for the pad to fit correctly. Takes time, and the client probably won't like the result if they ever get a look at it before the pads go on.

If they can't hack the reality of this, tell them to go somewhere else - or do it themselves.

-Kurt

gkamieneski

The drop bolt I referred you to originally was $40 and shipped to Canada. I'm sure there are still others hanging around.

Dan Burkhart 

Yes thanks, but seems to be rear only. I would need both.
EDIT: I just found a listing for the matching front, but as I said before, when the shipping and import fees are added on, we're at about $200 for the set.

gkamieneski

I don't recall needing a different one for front and rear, but I used one a long, long time ago.

Dan Burkhart 

Maybe you used the hack where you drill out the back side of the fork and use a recessed nut? If you want to use an external nut, the front needs a longer mounting bolt than the rear.

unworthy1

a "Campy" drop bolt should also work fine on the Superbe calipers, but doubt you will find any for much cheaper (but stranger things have happened). If by some miracle I come across either brand of drop bolt in my stash (that I can part with) I will send you a PM, Dan Burkhart

Dan Burkhart 

Thank you.

thook

make some drop bolts? some flat stock, a tap, and some bolts. paint them to color of the frame

Doug Fattic 

[QUOTE=cudak888;21962118I wouldn't do a hack job at the lovely anodizing on these Superbes - not for a client, anyway. Remember that there's also a small recess you have to file into the back of the caliper for the pad to fit correctly. Takes time, and the client probably won't like the result if they ever get a look at it before the pads go on. -Kurt[/QUOTE]

Kurt, I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying something more than just filing the slot longer is necessary? The back of the arm where the back of the brake block holder rests against it requires additional recessing?

gkamieneski

Not sure with the Superbes, but believe he is referencing the recess on the bolt side of the caliper arms. If you were to enlarge the slot with a file, you may also need to "rout" the recesses of the arms so that the bolt can slide down to attach the shoe holders at a lower point.

unworthy1

On the Superbe 4700 those milled out inboard recesses are open at the bottom, so if using the stock pad holders (or others of the same dimensions) there would be no additional mill or file work needed if the slots are elongated.

EDIT: a little clarification: the milling on the inboard of the caliper arms is for the tire guides tabs to fit and slide (up & down) along with the pads, and they are separate pieces to the pad holders. If you keep the tire guides then any flat-back pad /holder with the same diameter bolt can work. And if you hate tire guides just clip off everything but the tabs. Lost the tabs? Then try washers of proper thickness with flats filed on 2 sides.

cudak888 

@unworthy1 just clarified and corrected me quite well - apparently, the recess/slotting extends all the way to the bottom of the caliper on the 4700's, so no additional milling or modification required other than the elongated slotting.

I still say the owner of this bike is asking for a square peg to be shoved in a round hole. If they have to have Superbes, they should cough up the $200 for the drop bolts.

-Kurt

gkamieneski

One thing I've noticed, looking at the photos again. It could be the angle, but it looks like if you go with the file slot solution, you're going to need to file almost down to the bottom of the material. So how much is a "bit short"?

cudak888 

Funny, I'd assumed the rear was a 700C for comparison. Upon reading the thread, I just now realized it isn't. Pretty sure you're not wrong in that assessment.

Another thing to consider: Are those wheels dished right in the first place? Seems like the pads would be level to each other when meeting the rim, if both set as low as possible.

-Kurt

gaucho777 

Another kludge you can do, in addition to filing the slots, is to file the threads of the brake shoe posts. Just file a short section at the bottom where they contact the bottom of the post slot. That gets you another mm or two. It does look like a fair amount of slot filing would be needed, and I’d want to minimize filing as much as possible. Curious, if you subtract extra reach needed from distance between slot to bottom of caliper, how much is left?