Name that tool
#1
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Name that tool
This came into the co-op the other day. It’s bicycle specific. Its purpose was written on the box top, but this is the first time I’ve seen one. I could only find one other reference on google, so I assume they are not very common.
#2
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isnt that a punch + die tool?
#4
elcraft
Hole punch for sheet metal. Might be useful for hole formaking or altering mounting brackets, etc. this isn’t really a Bicycle specific tool.
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Brooks saddle rivet tool? I feel like I have seen that somewhere. looks like its designed to punch small holes in a row on the edge of a piece of sheet metal. Note adjustable depth stop. Leather punch?
#6
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Tip: Not sheet metal
#8
elcraft
There were aluminum brackets, made from strips of sheet metal that were used to mount reflectors, chain guards, racks, etc. these punches are. Limited to punching flat metal that can fit in the jaws. There is a throat depth of maybe 3/4. The hole could only be punched 3/4 from the edge of the sheet metal.
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Fenders. It's for punching holes in fenders.
Looks like a Roper Whitney No, 5 punch. Several on fleaBay with the dies included.
Looks like a Roper Whitney No, 5 punch. Several on fleaBay with the dies included.
#10
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There were aluminum brackets, made from strips of sheet metal that were used to mount reflectors, chain guards, racks, etc. these punches are. Limited to punching flat metal that can fit in the jaws. There is a throat depth of maybe 3/4. The hole could only be punched 3/4 from the edge of the sheet metal.
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correct Roper Whitney punch (AKA Whitney Roper, I've heard it both ways). I have one and used it to punch MANY holes in sheet metal (it's great for that, cleaner hole and more precise than a drill) but NEVER on a bicycle, except maybe sheet metal for a bike. No clue why the anvil has been sawn thru like that except for tighter clearance, and with that done you cannot change out the dies and punches (very readily) so this makes one size hole in probably one thickness of material. Or maybe not punching a thru hole....rivet remover? For derailleurs?
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Making round hub spoke holes fit fat aero spokes?
-Mark B
-Mark B
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#16
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Punching holes into rim tape to beat the spokes from doing it...
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Looks like the head has been modified for "Nibling" I'll go with spoke trimmer.
Last edited by bark_eater; 03-23-21 at 04:42 AM.
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Sheet metal nibbler for trimming fenders?
#19
elcraft
I. can only envision a few other possible situations, besides fender punching or the aluminum strip modification. Installing or removing the old style toe strap buttons, punching holes in pedal cages for reflector attachment (CSPS aftermarket req’s?) , punching holes into some type of head badge ( custom or house branding) or racing number card punch ( mounting tab placement being too varied ). Am I any warmer?
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I have one and use it frequently. Punching holes in sheet metal is far easier than drilling. Ask around your co-op to find out why this was modified. I'm curious.
See 4 minute mark on the video.
See 4 minute mark on the video.
#21
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Ding ding! 🛎
It’s a “hub slotter”. Apparently sold by the original DT Swiss importer for the US. The top is ground away to make more room for the hub shell, though it still needs a pretty high flange hub to work. Wheel Fanatyk has a little write up on the history of aero spokes and hub slotting here, which is also where I got the tooling shot from as I neglected to photograph it at the time. https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/rare-aero-trickery/
It’s a “hub slotter”. Apparently sold by the original DT Swiss importer for the US. The top is ground away to make more room for the hub shell, though it still needs a pretty high flange hub to work. Wheel Fanatyk has a little write up on the history of aero spokes and hub slotting here, which is also where I got the tooling shot from as I neglected to photograph it at the time. https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/rare-aero-trickery/
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Crazy! But makes total sense and must be 100% easier to control that then hand-cutting slots with a Dremel! I can barely control my Dremel with cut-off wheels or burrs, they tend to wander but FAST! So the punch AND the die must be custom tooling, or the die just has a round hole cause it doesn't NEED to be an exact match to the punch shape to work OK (can you share a pic of the die?). There Whitney tools generate a fair bit of pressure at the working point, for a hand-tool: watch out for your finger tips! I'd guess this punches thru alloy flanges like a knife thru butter! Still can't see how the die gets adjusted for varying thickness (cause you would not just screw the die up/down like a standard Roper Whitney die) but must be what that big nut is for.
#23
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Crazy! But makes total sense and must be 100% easier to control that then hand-cutting slots with a Dremel! I can barely control my Dremel with cut-off wheels or burrs, they tend to wander but FAST! So the punch AND the die must be custom tooling, or the die just has a round hole cause it doesn't NEED to be an exact match to the punch shape to work OK (can you share a pic of the die?). There Whitney tools generate a fair bit of pressure at the working point, for a hand-tool: watch out for your finger tips! I'd guess this punches thru alloy flanges like a knife thru butter! Still can't see how the die gets adjusted for varying thickness (cause you would not just screw the die up/down like a standard Roper Whitney die) but must be what that big nut is for.