Double0757

I know you're not going to disappoint! Here's the fork.


I've been thinking of using thicken marine epoxy (which I have) to glue and fillet (used on wooden boats to attach parts together with a bit of structural force) a bolt where the light and the fender's hardware could be attached to.

Question, how strong is the epoxyed bolt to the Carbon fiber would be? Is there other less permanent solutions, like a strapped in bolt? Don't want to drill a whole on the fork and compromise the structure, not to mention void the warranty.

Thanks in advanced! Double O

jimc101

There are a few options out there, whatever you look at, would look at something non-pemenant/destuctive, as bonding stuff onto what you have would trash a perfectly good high-end CF fork.

SKS (and others) make fenders which mount on the dropouts/fork caliper mount ( Probably no good in your case, as you don't appear to have the hole needed where where you light is mounted), https://www.sks-germany.com/en/produ...de-long-black/ or shorter ones which mount to the fork blades https://www.sks-germany.com/en/produ...e-pro-black-2/ Plenty of other brands have this design, take you pick from your favourite.

Alternatively look at a fork with fender mounts, say a Whiskey No. 9 Forks | Whisky Parts Co.

fietsbob

rig up a way to use the QR skewer to mount the Right strut ,

+ the Bottom post mount disc caliper Bolt can be used on that side

Or use both ends of the Skewer ..

May Be nothing you can just buy and put on , it will take some creativity to make pieces For the Purpose.


making a strap like ring, around the fork blade of Composite, cloth & epoxy
and Wrapping it over and around Your proposed mount

fabricated so that it is well bonded but external to the fork blade

In My way of thinking, Has some possibilities.

Double0757

Thanks for the suggestions! The best for me would be the SKS pro-black 2. Even thou is not a full fender, I could combine with existing mud guard and "complete" a full one. The fork would be the best option, but it needs to be quick release for the dynamo hub.

I don't think I would trash the fork if done properly. My only concern is that it would end up not been strong enough and with time and vibration the epoxy joint would fail.

Thanks again! Double O

fietsbob

Crud Mk2 / vs SKS race blades Crud Roadracer Mudguards or SKS Race blades? - BikeRadar Forum

Double0757

Thanks! I didn't think of that before. That would solve the fender's bottom support wire mount problem! Little metal strip with 2 holes in an "S" shape. One hole for the quick release skewer and the other for the fender hardware to mount on.

Any Ideas on the strapped bolt on the crown? Thinking wide base bolt with metal zip ties?

Thanks! Double O

fietsbob

Is there a Hole at the Bottom, Open end of the steerer tube?

Double0757

No, Its a solid piece all around, no holes except for the caliper brake mounts.

fietsbob

A Sheldon's nut on the back side. Problem Solvers. gives you a place to mount typical L Bracket.

I made up a stiffener inside my mudguard with aluminum flat bar pop riveted thru

this was External on my Bike Friday .. similar to what they sell ..



And even as On another bike needing more over tire clearance, used the fork crown thru bolt
to have 2 separate mudguard pieces separated by the fork in between.

I Plug the typical steerer with a cork on the bottom..

cali_axela

Lynskey makes a very nice carbon, disc brake, quick release fork with fender eyelets. Fairly reasonably priced for the quality and relatively specific features, too. I have one and love it: https://lynskeyperformance.com/lynskey-endurance-disc/

Double0757

Thanks! Beautiful Fork! That's about what the Easton fork went for. I didn't see any Quick release fork options with eyelets for fenders in the Litespeed site. Any way, I was thinking on a stainless steel bolt soldered to a small flat piece of thin & light stainless steel plate, paint it black, then marine epoxy to the flat front part of the fork, fillet the borders with marine epoxy and paint black again. Marine epoxy has a little give and don't crack with flexing. I'm hoping it will hold up to the rigors of commuting and gravel trail ridding. It's only going to hold a dynamo light and fender, so not much weight on the plate.

For the bottom, I was thinking on the same bolt (smaller) soldered to a small plate, but instead of epoxy, use zip ties around the fork to secure it, less permanent and easy to service.

It's worth the try, rather than buying a new fork. If it doest work then I'll consider a new fork.

Thanks! Double O

CrippledKonaBoy

Rubber or silicone strips inside plumber's strapping around the lower fork legs can hold the lower fender mounts. Depending on the upper mount, something similar can happen at the crown. Totally non-invasive to the fork.

AlTheKiller

You could potentially try and lengthen some raceblade fenders?



They already go about as low as many popular style of fenders, if not quite low enough for true full coverage. If you got creative with either your old fender, or some lightweight, shaped plastic, you could probably get it lengthened a few inches for better low coverage.

They're not the most sturdy, but I did plenty of commuting with mine and it got me by.

edit: could you swap out the front struts onto the rear fender I wonder? Since you already have the rear fender that you need. That would give you more front coverage.

Double0757

Thank you everybody! This is what I ended up doing.

Totally serviceable and none permanent. Haven't tried it on the commute but light and fender holding good!

HardyWeinberg

Very clever. I would have* just used zip ties all around (through the bolt holes on the fender and struts) but I bet your plastic squares protect the CF from rub from the fender parts.

*and I have done that well enough, albeit with a metal suspension fork not a CF one

scoatw

So what is the plastic square?

alan s 

+1

scoatw

Never mind. I figured it out. Look at the picture. I saw all of them, but the first one. Pretty clever.

That's only the upteenth great idea that I've gotten from BF. I'll use that one to mount fenders on my FS mountain bike.

scoatw

Is that a washer or a lock washer behind the nut?

jfowler85

That is some truly horrendous diy work. The Lynskey is okay...the rest is terrible.

Double0757

It's a raised stainless steel washer I had laying around. I serrated the bottom with a Dremel so it digs into the plastic and doesn't slip. Also lock-tied the first nut with red lock-tie, so as to sandwich the fender and light hardware between them.

The light does vibrate only on rough pavement or bumps, however it does a good job at holding everything in place. Short of a more permanent and sturdier solution ( epoxying a welded nut to the fork) or buying a new fork, I think it's best I could do.

PatrickGSR94

And what would you have done, without replacing or otherwise permanently modifying the OP's existing fork?

Looks like a pretty neat idea to me. I might need to find some of those plastic squares.

jfowler85

Hey, more power to you. I like my bike looking like a bike and not a Martha Stewart superglue special.

What would I have done? I would have ridden my cx bike which has eyelets for full fenders.

PatrickGSR94

Ridiculous response. Some people have to make do with what they have. My commuter bike doesn't have fender eyelets, but I use it because it's the bike I have that's best suited for 31 miles round trip. I have the RaceBlade clip-on fenders like in the pic posted above (only put them on for rainy days), but I would much prefer having full fenders. Maybe one day when I can afford to build another bike that accommodates such things, but for now I make do with what I have.

JoeyBike

I am only half kidding.