NLGI#0 grease for bearings
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
NLGI#0 grease for bearings
Wondering if anyone has used NLGI#0 grease for hubs and what your experience was with it. I am also wondering if anyone had any success with thinning general purpose grease with something like synthetic motor oil or with mineral oil.
Thank you
Thank you
#2
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2731 Post(s)
Liked 3,361 Times
in
2,034 Posts
Why? I repack hubs with marine trailer bearing grease which is NLGI 2.
I like to let the petroleum grease engineers design their product for an application rather than make my own.
I've used "0" and "00" corn head grease in vintage car/tractor steering boxes that tend to leak.
I like to let the petroleum grease engineers design their product for an application rather than make my own.
I've used "0" and "00" corn head grease in vintage car/tractor steering boxes that tend to leak.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm finding that there is not much info out there about what'
s best to use. It seems that for performance or racing, the high end expensive stuff, is not suppose to be too thick and heavy. Isn't NLGI 2 basically general purpose grease?I did not consider NLGI 00 because it may be to runny but I thought perhaps "0" or "1" may be good . compared to the dedicated performance stuff price wise these seem acceptable.
s best to use. It seems that for performance or racing, the high end expensive stuff, is not suppose to be too thick and heavy. Isn't NLGI 2 basically general purpose grease?I did not consider NLGI 00 because it may be to runny but I thought perhaps "0" or "1" may be good . compared to the dedicated performance stuff price wise these seem acceptable.
#4
Half way there
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,955
Bikes: Many, and the list changes frequently
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 985 Post(s)
Liked 879 Times
in
526 Posts
What I hear you saying is that you want to both maximise performance and economy. I see no reason not to try "0" on hubs as an experiment; however I doubt that you will find a significant real-world performance benefit.
I use NGLI 00 for my internally geared hub mechanisms; however I still pack the axle bearings with marine grade bearing grease.
I use NGLI 00 for my internally geared hub mechanisms; however I still pack the axle bearings with marine grade bearing grease.
#5
Senior Member
My favorite trick is to use red Ford automatic transmission fluid on my chains & drivetrains. Between that & diesel fuel my bikes run slick as #$%&t !
#6
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2731 Post(s)
Liked 3,361 Times
in
2,034 Posts
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,652
Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 560 Post(s)
Liked 546 Times
in
396 Posts
I suppose worrying about a fraction of a watt would be of concern for a racer. For all but those professionals racers or those who value de minimus speed advantage over preventative maintenance frequency and component life this may work for them.