Upgrading My Grand Canyon AL 6.0 MTB for Speed: Need Advice!
#1
Upgrading My Grand Canyon AL 6.0 MTB for Speed: Need Advice!
Hey fellow riders,
I've been thoroughly enjoying my 2020 Grand Canyon AL 6.0 MTB, but lately, I've been using it more for fitness rides on roads and gravel paths. To optimize it for speed, I'm planning some modifications and would love your input.
First up, I'm looking to swap out the tires to ones better suited for faster surfaces. (probably Continental Race King)
Secondly, I'm considering upgrading the crankset to support higher speeds. Currently, I've got the SHIMANO DEORE XT HOLLOWTECH II MTB Crankset 2x11-speed with a 36-26 chainring setup. My idea is to replace the larger 36-tooth chainring with a 38-tooth one while keeping the smaller 26-tooth for those challenging uphill sections.
Has anyone tried a similar modification? Will the 38-tooth chainring work well with the 26-tooth one, or am I better off considering a different setup?
I'd greatly appreciate any insights or experiences you can share on this topic. Thanks in advance for your help!
I've been thoroughly enjoying my 2020 Grand Canyon AL 6.0 MTB, but lately, I've been using it more for fitness rides on roads and gravel paths. To optimize it for speed, I'm planning some modifications and would love your input.
First up, I'm looking to swap out the tires to ones better suited for faster surfaces. (probably Continental Race King)
Secondly, I'm considering upgrading the crankset to support higher speeds. Currently, I've got the SHIMANO DEORE XT HOLLOWTECH II MTB Crankset 2x11-speed with a 36-26 chainring setup. My idea is to replace the larger 36-tooth chainring with a 38-tooth one while keeping the smaller 26-tooth for those challenging uphill sections.
Has anyone tried a similar modification? Will the 38-tooth chainring work well with the 26-tooth one, or am I better off considering a different setup?
I'd greatly appreciate any insights or experiences you can share on this topic. Thanks in advance for your help!
#2
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
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It is poor forum etiquette to make the same post in multiple subforums. You might consider removing this thread and focusing on the thread in bicycle mechanics which is a good place for it. Again though it sounds like you are a perfect candidate for N+1.
#3
Can you advise me how I can delete this post? Unfortunately, I only found the modification option.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
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#4
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 14,631
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
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I think you can reach out to one of the moderators and they can help out. I haven't had to delete a thread yet surprisingly.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
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I don't think you'll find a 2 tooth increase (0.6%) increase in the chainwheel size to make much difference. You didn't mention what cassette you are running, but if the smallest tooth is a 12, changing to an 11 will make a noticeable difference.
__________________
Cheers, Mike
-Stupid hurts....ride safe
Cheers, Mike
-Stupid hurts....ride safe
#6
Here is what I've found on the manufacturer's website:
Tyre:
Original set
front: Schwalbe Rapid Rob 29x2.25"
back: Schwalbe Tough Tom 29x2.25"
New set (just changing)
Continental Race King 29x2.00" (50-622)
Casette
Shimano SLX M7000 11-42 11s
Crank
Shimano SLX M7000 36/26
Rear Derailleur
Shimano Deore XT M8000 GS
Cage lenght: medium
Front Derailleur
Shimano SLX M7020
Tyre:
Original set
front: Schwalbe Rapid Rob 29x2.25"
back: Schwalbe Tough Tom 29x2.25"
New set (just changing)
Continental Race King 29x2.00" (50-622)
Casette
Shimano SLX M7000 11-42 11s
Crank
Shimano SLX M7000 36/26
Rear Derailleur
Shimano Deore XT M8000 GS
Cage lenght: medium
Front Derailleur
Shimano SLX M7020
#7
I realize I haven't clearly explained my reasons and expectations for the change.
I've noticed that I'm reaching uncomfortably high pedal stroke on straight roads, which is becoming concerning. I have the power to handle a higher gear ratio, but I'm seeking a solution to manage this.
Primarily, I ride for fitness and enjoyment rather than competitive speed.
I also appreciate the geometry of this bike, which is why I'm considering modifications rather than purchasing a new one.
I've noticed that I'm reaching uncomfortably high pedal stroke on straight roads, which is becoming concerning. I have the power to handle a higher gear ratio, but I'm seeking a solution to manage this.
Primarily, I ride for fitness and enjoyment rather than competitive speed.
I also appreciate the geometry of this bike, which is why I'm considering modifications rather than purchasing a new one.
#8
Full Member
If you don't have clipless do that, and maybe focus on running a higher cadence so you get used to it on the straight roads? It is a skill and will pay off later on. Besides that I would figure out the BCD of the crank, see what chainring options you have, and then go from there.
Also, realize your front derailleur can only "swing" a certain tooth gap. We know stock it's a 10 tooth change, so a 12 or maybe 14 tooth might work, but if you want say a 42th front ring you might have to go up on the smaller chainring too.
Beyond that you have to worry about the rear derailleur coping and possibly more links in the chain.
You must be pretty fast.
Also, realize your front derailleur can only "swing" a certain tooth gap. We know stock it's a 10 tooth change, so a 12 or maybe 14 tooth might work, but if you want say a 42th front ring you might have to go up on the smaller chainring too.
Beyond that you have to worry about the rear derailleur coping and possibly more links in the chain.
You must be pretty fast.