Alternative Pedal Remover Tool
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pinehurst, NC, US
Posts: 1,716
Bikes: 2020 Trek Emonda SL6, 90's Vintage EL-OS Steel Bianchi with 2014 Campy Chorus Upgrade
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 452 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
110 Posts
Alternative Pedal Remover Tool
Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)? It just seems like a natural but I don't see any after a quick search.
Thanks.
dave
Thanks.
dave
#2
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,811 Times
in
3,319 Posts
Open end 15 mm socket? Open end and socket are two different things. Is that what you mean?
I guess I sort of understand what you mean, essentially you want a pedal wrench with a handle on both sides. I've not seen one.
I guess I sort of understand what you mean, essentially you want a pedal wrench with a handle on both sides. I've not seen one.
Last edited by Iride01; 06-08-23 at 08:30 AM.
Likes For Iride01:
#3
I am potato.
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 3,116
Bikes: Only precision built, custom high performance elitist machines of the highest caliber. 🍆
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1789 Post(s)
Liked 1,630 Times
in
934 Posts
Pedal wrenches are the length they are so that when you approach the task properly, you hold the pedal in one hand & the grip end of the wrench in the other the force applied cancels out & the torque moment is on the pedal spindle only.
Installing the pedal wrench wrongly as many amateurs tend to do summates the forces instead of canceling them, making the task very difficult.
Installing the pedal wrench wrongly as many amateurs tend to do summates the forces instead of canceling them, making the task very difficult.
__________________
I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
Likes For base2:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 5,377
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2485 Post(s)
Liked 2,956 Times
in
1,679 Posts
If by "bad things can happen" you mean having the pedal axle suddenly break free of the crank threads such that your knuckles slam into the teeth of the big chainring, just do what JohnDThompson does and wear a thick glove to protect your hand (JohnD wears a welder's glove, I believe).
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pinehurst, NC, US
Posts: 1,716
Bikes: 2020 Trek Emonda SL6, 90's Vintage EL-OS Steel Bianchi with 2014 Campy Chorus Upgrade
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 452 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
110 Posts
dave
#6
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,811 Times
in
3,319 Posts
#7
Sr Member on Sr bikes
I use the Park PW-3 pedal wrench. It’s got a significantly longer handle that I closely align with the chain stay, and then squeeze the handle and chain stay together like you would a pair of channel locks, and the pedal generally loosens easily. Of course I don’t overly tighten my pedals though (and have never had an issue with one unscrewing). But if the pedal is unusually tight this might be a little more difficult. Before I had the PW-3, I would use a regular 15mm open end wrench, and fit a 12-16 inch length of steel pipe over it to give me the extra length and leverage. — Dan
Likes For _ForceD_:
#8
LR÷P=HR
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,180
Bikes: 1981 Holdsworth Special, 1993 C-dale MT3000 & 1996 F700CAD3, 2018 Cervelo R3 & 2022 R5, JustGo Runt, Ridley Oval, Kickr Bike 8-)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 867 Post(s)
Liked 1,205 Times
in
694 Posts
If you really must...
What about a 15mm Crows Foot on a Sliding T-Handle?
Barry
What about a 15mm Crows Foot on a Sliding T-Handle?
Barry
Likes For Barry2:
Likes For blacknbluebikes:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,795
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3513 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
Likes For smd4:
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 2,159
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 913 Post(s)
Liked 515 Times
in
344 Posts
Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)? It just seems like a natural but I don't see any after a quick search.
Thanks.
dave
Thanks.
dave
And yes, technique is paramount over what wrench you use. (Random pic off the googles.)
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,378
Bikes: a couple
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 563 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times
in
456 Posts
I use the Park PW-3 pedal wrench. It’s got a significantly longer handle that I closely align with the chain stay, and then squeeze the handle and chain stay together like you would a pair of channel locks, and the pedal generally loosens easily. Of course I don’t overly tighten my pedals though (and have never had an issue with one unscrewing). But if the pedal is unusually tight this might be a little more difficult. Before I had the PW-3, I would use a regular 15mm open end wrench, and fit a 12-16 inch length of steel pipe over it to give me the extra length and leverage. — Dan
Also this little cheapie I picked up at the flea market
|
Likes For Schweinhund:
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,795
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3513 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
I prefer something a little longer, with a little more leverage. I use a vintage Cyclo, which looks a lot like this Unior:
Unior Pedal Wrench
Unior Pedal Wrench
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: GMT-5
Posts: 939
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 540 Post(s)
Liked 416 Times
in
274 Posts
Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)? It just seems like a natural but I don't see any after a quick search.
Thanks.
dave
Thanks.
dave
Likes For soyabean:
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,795
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3513 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
Sounds like the OP wants a bar with a 15 mm opening on one edge, in the middle, not at the ends. Sounds like that could easily be made.
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: So Cal
Posts: 97
Bikes: 2023 S-Works Tarmac SL7 Dura-Ace Di2, 2022 Cervelo Caledonia-5 SRAM Rival etap AXS, 2019 Specialized Sirrus Elite Alloy, 1977 Schwinn Super LeTour 12.2, 85 Bianchi Limited Shimano New 600EX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked 50 Times
in
28 Posts
I tested out a 15 mm crow's foot with a 3/8" ratchet. It works well on both sides regardless of how the slots on the pedal are clocked. My crow's foot is a bit thick. The Park Tool TWB-15 Pedal Wrench Crow Foot looks like it would work perfect.
Likes For Bici Veloce:
#19
Happy With My Bikes
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,187
Bikes: Hi-Ten bike boomers, a Trek Domane and some projects
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 884 Post(s)
Liked 2,308 Times
in
1,118 Posts
Forgive me but I don't see the advantage to the wrench design you wish to have. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I just don't recognize what you want to accomplish. I do think though if you are having problems that as suggested by someone above, it may be technique. I've been removing pedals for decades with an open end wrench without issue. Even pretty well stuck pedals after using a penetrating oil.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
__________________
"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
Likes For Chuck M:
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pinehurst, NC, US
Posts: 1,716
Bikes: 2020 Trek Emonda SL6, 90's Vintage EL-OS Steel Bianchi with 2014 Campy Chorus Upgrade
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 452 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
110 Posts
If by "bad things can happen" you mean having the pedal axle suddenly break free of the crank threads such that your knuckles slam into the teeth of the big chainring, just do what JohnDThompson does and wear a thick glove to protect your hand (JohnD wears a welder's glove, I believe).
dave
Likes For DaveLeeNC:
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pinehurst, NC, US
Posts: 1,716
Bikes: 2020 Trek Emonda SL6, 90's Vintage EL-OS Steel Bianchi with 2014 Campy Chorus Upgrade
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 452 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
110 Posts
Forgive me but I don't see the advantage to the wrench design you wish to have. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I just don't recognize what you want to accomplish. I do think though if you are having problems that as suggested by someone above, it may be technique. I've been removing pedals for decades with an open end wrench without issue. Even pretty well stuck pedals after using a penetrating oil.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
dave
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,795
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3513 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
Likes For smd4:
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: GMT-5
Posts: 939
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 540 Post(s)
Liked 416 Times
in
274 Posts
Being both an auto mechanic and a bike wrench, I own a behemoth collection of specialty tools and such a silly tool would be difficult to use.
Removing a pedal is relatively straightforward and easy. It's not a lug nut that requires a tire iron.
I manage to remove 100% of all pedals with my Park Tool PW-4 and only needed a cheater bar a handful of times because of twits that overtighened them too much on the install.
If you are hurting yourself you are doing something very wrong and my suggestion is to let your local bike shop deal with it.
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pinehurst, NC, US
Posts: 1,716
Bikes: 2020 Trek Emonda SL6, 90's Vintage EL-OS Steel Bianchi with 2014 Campy Chorus Upgrade
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 452 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
110 Posts
FWIW, this was a particularly tough pedal for some reason (probably installed by my LBS but not positive - but probably). I have removed pedals a half dozen times over the last 10 or so years, and this is my first injury (which was trivial, BTW).
From smd4 "Get a pedal wrench of your choice and learn to use it properly." Trying to find a wrench of my choice is exactly what I am doing here. I remember the old 4 way tire irons from the 1960's when I was learning to drive (and change tires). I just found those easier than the one-sided tools common today. And being 73 years old with some non-trivial shoulder problems does not help.
But it sounds like I can end my search for the tool of my choice and learn to deal with the wrenches available. There are techniques that do not involve your arms at all that I should probably try out.
dave
From smd4 "Get a pedal wrench of your choice and learn to use it properly." Trying to find a wrench of my choice is exactly what I am doing here. I remember the old 4 way tire irons from the 1960's when I was learning to drive (and change tires). I just found those easier than the one-sided tools common today. And being 73 years old with some non-trivial shoulder problems does not help.
But it sounds like I can end my search for the tool of my choice and learn to deal with the wrenches available. There are techniques that do not involve your arms at all that I should probably try out.
dave
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,795
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3513 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
Using a wrench like the one I suggested on the drive side, for example, place the crank arm around 3:00 or 4:00. ideally as close to 3:00 as the wrench will allow. Hold the pedal with your right hand. Place the wrench on the flats, facing left. Ideally close to 9:00. Push down on the wrench with your left hand while balancing the force with your right hand on the pedal. The motion should keep your knuckles down and away from the chainring teeth. Eventually your left hand will loosen the pedal, hopefully without the need for gloves, catchers gear or a cup. See post 17 by Bici Veloce above.
Because you won’t have a way to keep the cranks from turning as you use it, a tool as you suggest, with a hand on each side, will be exceedingly difficult to use. For the same reason you loosen lug nuts with the 4-way tire iron before jacking the wheel off the ground.
Last edited by smd4; 06-08-23 at 07:40 PM.
Likes For smd4: